mgrinspan

Hi! I just moved my computer to a new case and noticed that the case has a USB C port on the front panel. My motherboard doesn't have any 3.1 ports but does have a spare 3.0 port. Are there any adapters out there? I found this: https://www.moddiy.com/products/Motherboard-USB-3.0-Header-to-New-USB-3.1-Front-Panel-Header-Converter.html?setCurrencyId=1 But that's crazy expensive and from a website I've never heard of...

We've tried leaving it on for ~10 minutes to see if it was just a very delayed post - didn't help

Haha, a classic mistake. I double-checked when installing it, it's definitely the right cable plugged into the motherboard and there's no GPU in the system

Tried flipping the speaker - still no beeps. Only thing connected is power and HDMI. We're trying different RAM sticks in different slots but so far no luck. Only thing that could have moved are the cables, everything else is locked in. Tracking the shipment doesn't help it only got scanned in 2 places, origin and destination (despite being >3000 miles apart). Trying to avoid removing the motherboard/CPU/cooler as she won't be able to reinstall that properly

Also of note is the EZ Debug light for the RAM isn't lighting up - even with no RAM installed.

Nope, still no beeps, no output, nothing. Is it possible the motherboard speaker is plugged in backwards? Not sure if the direction matters but I remember being unsure about it when installing it.

@suchamoneypit Resetting CMOS didn't work. She noticed that the RAM slots were unlocked so I thought that was 100% the issue, but we reseated them and still nothing. Of note - the first EZ Debug light (CPU) is lit. Googling tells me my best bets are reseating the RAM/CPU and she's definitely not qualified to reseat the CPU.

Yes. The fans and lights come on

She says the box was in great condition, no sign of damage. I packed it pretty well. The case came with a hard foam that holds it in place pretty well so i sent the built PC in that. The EPS/ATX cables are plugged in just fine, other cables I would imagine don't matter much since the thing turns on just no post (or no output, not sure which). We'll try the CMOS reset

Hi all, Built a PC for a friend, booted it, everything worked 100% as expected. Packed it up and shipped to her and she can't get it to output anything to any monitor she tries. She's tried the HDMI, DVI (via an HDMI->DVI adapter), and VGA (VGA->DVI cable) ports to 2 separate monitors and a TV. No output whatsoever. No beeps either (mobo speaker is installed). Case/fans/etc light up, fans spin, just no output. Any/all suggestions are welcome! Thanks! Build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor (Purchased For $105.56) Motherboard: MSI - B450M PRO-VDH Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (Purchased For $73.56) Memory: Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory (Purchased For $75.68) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Case: DIYPC - DIY-F2-P MicroATX Mini Tower Case (Purchased For $32.33) Power Supply: EVGA - BR 500 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply (Purchased For $18.65) Case Fan: Apevia - 512L-CPK 57.67 CFM 120mm Fans (Purchased For $21.59) Other: 10 Port PWM Fan Hub (Purchased For $10.99) Other: RGB Strips (Purchased For $11.99) Other: Cat Stickers (Purchased For $21.52) Other: RGB Strips (Purchased For $11.99) Total: $383.86 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-14 21:27 EST-0500

I'm also worried about a potential CPU bottleneck, thoughts? Is my i7-6800K enough?

If I'm considering a 1080TI, I'm in the same price range as the 2080 (not TI, that's pushing it I think). Would the 2080 be better than the 1080TI?

Anyone know if 1 1080TI is better than SLI 1070s? I have no experience with SLI but it'd be cheaper to get another 1070 than a 1080TI

Ok, thanks!

You think it would boost performance enough to almost double my frames?

Hi all, I'm trying to upgrade my rig to be able to handle 3840x1080@144Hz (not 4k, just 1080p * 2) in League of Legends. Currently with my 1070 I get ~150fps while nothing's happening in game, but when a fight breaks loose I go as low as 70. Would a 1080 (or TI) be enough to keep me above 144 at all times? Alternatively would getting a second 1070 and SLIing them be better? Is there to SLI a 1080 (or TI) with my 1070? Thanks My build: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant CPU: Intel - Core i7-6800K 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor ($484.10 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Pro 140 64.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.89 @ OutletPC) Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver - 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.55 @ OutletPC) Motherboard: Asus - X99-E ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LED 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($149.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($133.90 @ OutletPC) Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 500GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($147.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($58.50 @ Amazon) Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($78.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card ($433.74 @ OutletPC) Case: NZXT - Source 530 ATX Full Tower Case ($96.47 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair - CX (2017) 650W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon) Case Fan: NZXT - RF-FN122-RB 45.0 CFM 120mm Fan Monitor: Dell - S2240T 21.5" 1920x1080 60Hz Monitor ($275.90 @ Newegg) Monitor: Samsung - CHG90 49.0" 3840x1080 144Hz Monitor ($869.00 @ Amazon) Keyboard: Razer - BlackWidow Ultimate 2016 Wired Standard Keyboard ($106.00 @ Amazon) Mouse: Razer - DeathAdder Chroma Wired Optical Mouse ($54.49 @ Amazon) Headphones: SteelSeries - Arctis Pro Wireless Headset ($329.00 @ Amazon) Total: $3394.50 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-03 22:16 EDT-0400

Sounds good to me, thanks for your help!

Do you think all this is really necessary? Or only if I want to run stress tests? The person using the PC will likely never use it for anything intensive

Any idea how I can mount a fan there that will survive being shipped 3600 miles? Without screw holes I'd expect it to fall out of anything makeshift and break something.

This is what my fan setup looks like, the one on top and left are exhaust, the 3 (2 of them hard to see) on the front are intake. Is that enough for stress tests?

Case is DIYPC DIY-F2-P and mobo is MSI B450M PRO-VDH

It's what I had, I know it's a weird combo...

Hi, I just built a rig and I wasn't 200% confident I applied the thermal paste/cpu cooler perfectly, so I decided to run some stress tests. The CPU is a 2200G with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and the stock cooler. It maxes at 72C with AIDA64 and 83C with Prime95. Which number more accurately represents how high I can expect the temps to get? Also note that the average ambient temperature of the room the PC will be in is about 10F hotter (~85F) than the room I'm testing in. (~75F) I'm also wondering if I have to do any other special tests for the GPU part of the 2200G? Not sure if that's a stupid question. Thanks!

I don't pretend to know what I'm talking about but I'm building a similar PC right now. I went with the MSI B450M PRO-VDH due to other's recommendations. (Look at my topics)

Hi! I have a motherboard with a USB 3.1 header (that supports 2 USB 3.1 ports) inside of a case that has 1 USB 3.0 port. So by connecting that USB port to the motherboard I'm losing a port. Is there some way to split the header so that it can be used for an additional port (either on the back or through a 3.5in bay USB)? Thanks