Inelastic

I majored in physics. When I was an undergrad I used a Netbook, an old Asus Eee PC from the mid 200s that I installed Ubuntu on. When I hit grad school, I upgraded to a cheap Asus, X202e was the model. I needed a larger screen for reading papers and watching "The Daily Show" when I had my lunch. My work was done on either my home desktop or on a lab computer.

Flydigi Varder 3 Pro

I had a 1999 Honda Civic that I had for over 20 years. Had to replace a few months ago because of the maintenance costs were getting too high. If you haven't already, I'd recommend installing a car alarm after putting all that into it. My car was stolen and parked a few block away with the only thing missing being the 40 dollar aftermarket Amazon stereo. But, they did leave me with a bent steering column since they had to break the lock on it.

You need to either hook them all up in a single channel/mobo header without using a splitter or use multiple ones. Some fans come with their own software and controllers that allow you to do it, like the new Lian Li fans Unifans. I believe this piece of hardware can do it since it has 6 channels (I'm assuming each header can be controlled individually, double check on that): https://www.razer.com/gaming-pc-accessories/razer-chroma-addressable-rgb-controller

The next screwdriver will be electric and will happen in about 7 years, when the arthritis starts to set in

What do you mean by boots to low 70s to low 80s? Do you mean that in the bios it shows that? Does it show that in Windows at idle? I can tell you that mine sits at around 47C in Windows when I'm doing light things like browsing the Internet. It gets to mid 70s when playing cpu intensive games. I'm using a custom loop. I also got similar results at idle with a Hyper 212 Black. I don't recall exactly what it was at load, but I know it wasn't throttling with that air cooler.

Windows 11 is released. Any complaint is totally valid. You can't just blow off complaints and say it's more of a preview because it's released. It's a Razer thing though, not a Windows 11 thing. Razer hasn't made that mouse compatible with Synapse 3. Even on Windows 10, it won't work with that software. I wouldn't count on them making Synapse 2 WIndows 11 compatible since they moved on. I also doubt they'll make your mouse compatible since that's been a complaint for a few years now, and they also have the Naga Pro out. Unfortunately, I think it's either rollback to Windows 10 or buy a new mouse.

Switch Pro is around the same as the Steam, around 40 hours. Wii U Pro is around 80 hours. The Xbox is supposed to be around 30 hours with good quality batteries. The DualSense is around 12 hours.

The Xbox Series X controller does use BT. I don't think the 360 one does, that one requires a dongle. The Series X controller and 360 controller both use AA batteries. Sony and Nintendo use battery packs. The Switch Pro lasts the longest. Supposedly it has a 40 hour life. I think the worst is the DualSense controller. I don't know anything about Linux compatibility. They might work through Steam? You might even be able to find a third-party app for it. I use my Wii U Pro controller (on Windows) through an app called WiinUSoft.

The best controllers are probably the console controllers ; Xbox, PlayStation, or Switch. Personally, I use the Wii U Pro controller because I own one from having a Wii U. I also have a Steam controller from when they had that sale. Most of the time I use the Wii U Pro controller, but I find the Steam controller works great in BOTW for its gyro aiming. If you want gyroscope controls like the Steam controller has, then it's the Switch Pro or PlayStation controller.

I've only used one wireless mouse, Razer Naga Pro. I've had it for over a year now with no issues. It has optical switches so it shouldn't get the double click issue.

It could even be flat and attach on the sides if the table is thick enough, that way you wouldn't have the bracket on top of the desk. Another option might be some double-sided mounting tape? I'm not sure if that would cause issues with wobbliness if it's too thick. Perhaps even take out the top drawer and use screws to go into both the top of the cabinet and into the table?

I have a Razer Naga Pro. I don't turn it off or anything, I just leave it and it goes into hibernate after like 5 minutes. I have that accessory to allow me to just plop it onto it to charge. If I keep forgetting to put it on, the cable that goes into that accessory is the same cable that plugs into my mouse, so I can do that for like 20 minutes and get enough charge for the rest of the night. I've had it for a year with no scrolling or mouse clicking issues. The only issue I have is that sometimes I have to jiggle the mouse on the charger because the contacts aren't contacting properly.

I suspect that at that price range all the "gaming" chairs are made by the same manufacturer so it really matter which one you get since they're all probably the same quality. But, like others I would suggest going the office chair route. At that budget, I would either find one on sale at Office Depot or find a local office furniture liquidator and find something used. I can't recommend anything specific because it would be above your budget.

I bought one of these 8 years ago and it's still going strong, it works better than canned air. https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Powerful-Electronic-Environmentally-Friendly/dp/B01FWSYOME

Last Powercolor graphics card I bought was something like the Radeon 4800. I got their top end card which had something they called "VIP" service for customer support. The card I bought wouldn't run at the factory clocks and would only run if I lowered them to reference levels. I RMA'd the card and after 3 weeks of silence I emailed them asking the status. They replied saying it went missing and they found it on the loading dock. They wound up sending me a new one which had the exact same issue.

I use a Soundblaster Z card and I haven't had any driver issues (Windows 10). The best part is that there's software called SBZ Switcher that allows you to set the switching from headphones to speakers with a hotkey. I don't really use it anymore since I switched to wireless headphones, but it worked well when I did use it.

I'm not sure about beer resistant, but this one is spill resistant: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=834-W0-12US-KR

In theory, yes. It really depends on the controller. For example, I have Thermaltake fans connected to a TT Sync controller. That controller is sold specifically to do that. https://www.thermaltakeusa.com/tt-sync-controller-tt-premium-edition.html The fans have to be able to be supported by the controller. Many companies will make their own proprietary connections for their fans. Both Corsair and NZXT make proprietary fan connections, both of which are 4 pins where the 4th pin is a data return to chain fans together. However, I don't believe that their fans are cross-compatible, as in you can't put a Corsair fan on a NZXT controller even though you may be able to plug it in. The hub also has to have a connection to allow it to connect to a mobo argb header.

The Huntsman V2 Analog seems to have problems with the analog keys. https://insider.razer.com/index.php?threads/huntsman-v2-analog-ascend-to-analog.69792/page-6 I don't know how widespread it is, but it's something to be aware of.

Can you elaborate on what you mean by "paddles?" When I hear paddles, I think of the buttons that are on the back of the Xbox Elite controller that are sort of shaped like paddles, I don't think of the PlayStation controllers as having them. To me, those are more like triggers. Are you referring to their shape or how they work, analog vs digital? I know the Wii U Pro controller has those as digital, but they still have that shape. The Swtich Pro controller has them as digital, and the lower buttons look similar to the upper ones.

World of Warcraft. That's the only game I've played that demanded my soul.

I've never looked into non-diy solutions. However, here's a guide on for the Adafruit RGB matrix. It'll tell you everything you need to get setup with one. https://learn.adafruit.com/32x16-32x32-rgb-led-matrix I run a 32x32 matrix that's attached to the front of my case to show the temperature. But, I use a Teensy 3.6 https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy36_pins.html along with the SmartMatrix https://www.adafruit.com/product/1902 instead of an Arduino since they aren't that fast. The tutorial goes over that. But luckily the Teensy also works on the Arduino IDE so the coding is the same. That tutorial says the Raspberry Pi is incompatible with that, but there is another tutorial about using one with a Raspberry Pi: https://learn.adafruit.com/connecting-a-16x32-rgb-led-matrix-panel-to-a-raspberry-pi

It's still Mystic Light, but it is integrated into the dragon center software. It depends. There's just so many different ways they make leds strips nowadays. SMD 5050 refers to the size/style of leds on the strip. Then, there are both analog and digital styles. You can have 12v analog strips that have 4 pins(12V,G,R,B). You can have both 3 and 4 pin digital strips. There's different type of communication standards for digital. A common one is WS2812 or WS2812B, which is usually what mobos support. These are 3 pins (5V,Signal,GND) and even ones that are 4 pins (5V,Signal,GND,Signal In) which are custom strips that Corsair uses. Another style is SK9822 (or APA102), which uses 4 pins (GND, Clock, Data, 5V). I've even seen digital strips that use 12V. You have to check your mobo manual to see what type of strips are compatible and go from there. Usually it's the analog 12V (4 pins) and WS2812 (3 pins) that these mobos use. Once you decide on ones that are compatible, then you have to make sure that the connectors are compatible. If by "ordinary 5050 4-pin" you're referring to analog 12V strips, then the pinout is 12V,G,R,B and you're mobo probably supports it (check though). If you shop for pc led strips, they'll usually advertise as "Mystic Light" or "Asus Aura" compatible, which means they are the right style and have the right connector. Other strips, like generic ones off Amazon, can absolutely work and might have a compatible connector. Check the photos closely. You could also DIY a connector yourself. But, any 12V,G,R,B style will work just so long as you can connect it properly and you're mobo supports it.

I'm not sure what you mean. Time dilation refers to you observing how time flows in a different inertial reference frame that's moving relative to your inertial reference frame. You can be in a ship travelling at .99c relative to Earth and claim that you aren't moving at all, but Earth is moving past you at .99c. You see your watch tick off at normal intervals, but when you look at a watch on Earth, it will be slowed. You can also be standing on Earth and see a watch on that ship tick off slower while your watch ticks off normally.