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Sir Dude

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About Sir Dude

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  1. Oh, this is so helpful! @Bombastinator Re: Cold side The radiator bolts directly to the metal block, and the metal block bolts directly to the back of the fridge. The screw does not control anything electronically, it's just corroded because of condensation on the back end, and there are 2 screws, not just the one. The only switch on the entire unit is the power switch. It only has 2 positions, and they are labeled "Off" and "Cold", not even "On." Re: Radiator I don't know it's going to be to replace the radiator. A quick Google search for things like "10cmx10cm aluminum radiator" mostly brought up water cooling radiators or small replacement heat sinks that go on motherboards. I'm gonna have to look more into that. @mariushm Re: Fan I made sure to measure everything with a small measuring stick I have and the fan is 20mm thick. I could just buy a better quality same sized fan, but that would kinda defeat the purpose of upgrading this thing. I'm gonna have to modify the back cover anyway if I wanted something larger so I'll just do that and see what I can come up with. Re: Capacitors They are definitely bulging out and I will make sure those get replaced. I just saw that they're both labeled 25v, so I really should get that multimeter before trying anything. Re: Fan Resistor There is no fan speed controller, so if I'm understanding this correctly if I wanted the fan to spin faster I would have to rip that resistor out (and bridge the connection, of course), right? And then if it's spinning too fast I could put a different resistor in, yeah?
  2. Sorry for the late reply, but thank you both so much for the responses. Here's some answers to your questions: 1. The aluminum block on the left side is the hot side. The fan doesn't directly bolt to the radiator, it bolts to the fridge's plastic casing, but it is otherwise directly behind the radiator. Also, here's how the cooling units are put together: From left to right: cooling fan (not pictured here), radiator, peltier, metal block mentioned in first post but wasn't pictured, metal casing of fridge unit. Also I should mention there was thermal paste between these components, but I've cleaned that off and I have a tube on standby for if and when I put it back together. 2. The fan is indeed a cheap "Brushless DC 12v fan" from a company called Yaheng. It's directly soldered to the control switch board, but that should be no problem to just cut and splice wires together. 3. The fan is not wired to the peltier. It appears to be in the picture but the cords are zip-tied together and it made it look like the same wires. 4. Here's a better pic of that lower center board: You can refer to the pic in the first post for the other side. There's nothing of note on the other side and you can see it pretty clearly so I didn't feel the need to take a pic of the other side, however I will go into more detail and attempt to map everything out upon request. I have no idea if this thing controls voltage. The most I can guess is maybe it limits power going somewhere because of that resistor on the left side underneath the wires but there's nothing else on it. You can see the cords connecting to the fan more clearly, the wires going off the left connect to the peltier, the port pictured in the top right is the plug for cigarette lighters in vehicles, and the wires going off to the right connect to the main circuit board/power supply. 5. Speaking of, here are some pics showing the power supply in more detail: There is a URL on the back that leads to a Chinese website. I don't know if this is a custom power supply or not, but I could probably order a new one and just replace it. I don't know where or how but it does appear to have been burnt on that left side. And yes, those bottom two capacitors are indeed bowing out, and I didn't know that meant they were on their way out. It could be that there was a short somewhere and part of the board fried itself, now that I think about it. Lastly: -I don't have a way to measure voltage. Any recommendations? -At one point Bombastinator said a bigger peltier might blow the power supply. I was thinking that a bigger peltier would need more power but not get it, so it would be throttled instead. That's why in the closing statement in my first post I mentioned ripping something off the power supply (most likely a resistor) to give it more power, but the bulk of my electrical engineering expertise comes from learning about car batteries and wiring in vehicles from an automotive class, so I don't have much to say about that. -And Bombastinator also mentioned "PWM." I have no clue what that means. @Bombastinator and @mariushm
  3. Long story short: I got this Frigidaire Retro Mini Fridge that only holds 6 normal sized cans of soda, but is rather portable. I got it last year during a Black Friday sale and it's been pretty good to me... until the cooling fan died. I tore it apart and discovered it's made with some pretty simple components. I've always wanted to get into hobby electronics and I think this would be a good start. I don't want to just replace the fan, I want to upgrade the machine so it gets colder. Is there anyone who can help me, or at least point me to some good resources so I can learn by myself? Long story long: This is a relatively simple machine. It's small, compact, lightweight, comes with a handle for easy carrying, and even has a port for a cigarette lighter in a car. This thing is made to run off of 12v car batteries, so again, a pretty simple machine. Here are the internal components themselves in their entirety: The fridge contains 3 main things: A 3cm square Peltier cooling unit (left) An 8x8x2cm fan (upper center) A circuit board with a whack ton of heatsinks and capacitors. (right) I didn't know about Peltier cooling units when I opened this thing up, and I thought that little white square was black magic. Coincidentally enough, Linus Tech Tips uploaded a video where they used Peltier's to cool a PC, to some degree. Basically they move electrons from one side of the unit to the other. Moving the energy away from one side causes that side to get cold and the other side to get hot. While it's not great for large scale cooling, it's great for small scale applications like this. The fridge actually gets decently cold too. Of course, as you can see the Peltier unit is connected to a FAT heatsink (2 actually, the second isn't pictured but it's a solid 3.6x.3.6x2cm metal block and the unit is sandwiched between them) and on the other side of that heatsink is the fan, which of course points to the back of the fridge. To my understanding, if I wanted to upgrade the cooling capacity of this fridge, I would need either a bigger or more powerful Peltier unit, or maybe give the current one more power, of course I would need a bigger fan to carry more heat, and then maybe remove something from the circuit board so that it can run more power (because the units themselves need more power, otherwise I'm just throttling everything and ruining the point). Again, that is MY understanding of what I would need to do to upgrade this thing, but I am NOT a professional, and I don't know much about electronics, especially custom stuff like this. That's why I turned to the forums. If I were to try and go at this, I'm thinking best case scenario I get no perceptible difference in temperature, most likely scenario I would brick the fridge and have to throw it out, worst case scenario I burn my house down. I want as much help as people are willing to give me because I wanna make sure I get this right.
  4. That's the thing. I feel if I had another model in my hands to take apart for myself, I wouldn't even need this thread. But, you've given me some good help so I'll try those out. Thank you!
  5. The first one I talked about, the first Altec one, I have opened up. It's missing a battery and it wasn't built to have a battery. I know a little bit about electronics and circuitry, but not enough to go in there and try adding a battery myself. I was hoping somebody could either explain where and how to put in a battery, and what kind of battery to use, or in the very least point me somewhere I can go to find that information. As for the two 808 speakers, it looks like there should be another circuit board or something, but I don't have a consumer model to open up to confirm that. I also don't know what the wires coming out of the bottoms of them do either and I'm hoping I can just splice those together but I don't think it's going to be that easy. Lastly, as far as I'm aware of you can test hear all of the speakers in the store, and they should all be functional. Again with the 808's, the were physically cut from the display. I don't know what was in the display stand itself that they were attached to and I'm hoping it's nothing that the speakers can't work without.
  6. I was starting to feel that was the case. I'll try that other forum. Thanks!
  7. It's been a couple of days, is there nobody that can help me? Even if it's just pointing me in the right direction?
  8. My brother works at Walmart in the electronics department. When they are ready to replace the display speakers, my brother will take some of the old ones home because otherwise they'll just throw them away. I've got 4 right now and I want to fix them so they're in good working order. Here's the first one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0719LDGJ4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_3?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B0719LDGJ4&pd_rd_w=7Zmyz&pf_rd_p=21517efd-b385-405b-a405-9a37af61b5b4&pd_rd_wg=EsKFg&pf_rd_r=6SGJFDNQC3V9PQRBVV0G&pd_rd_r=f5897b6a-2265-11e9-81c1-55944d4ed8db It works when you plug it in, but it doesn't have a battery. I'm wondering if it's possible to put in a battery. I should note, this is a specially designed display model that is purposely made to not have a battery. If I want to add one, I'm gonna have to splice it in. I just need to know where and what kind of battery I should get. The next two are: https://www.amazon.com/808-Audio-HEX-TL-Rechargeable/dp/B0109GTXWA/ref=pd_sim_23_3/133-8998521-0172801?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0109GTXWA&pd_rd_r=6e427bd2-2266-11e9-8cd6-a534db0839e1&pd_rd_w=6wMUP&pd_rd_wg=Vj9eI&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=9H1H19YPZMQVDXT53SW0&psc=1&refRID=9H1H19YPZMQVDXT53SW0 https://www.amazon.com/808-Audio-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker/dp/B01EZG65Y4/ref=pd_sim_107_5/133-8998521-0172801?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01EZG65Y4&pd_rd_r=676dd321-2266-11e9-8307-3d1db5d50469&pd_rd_w=wGMFs&pd_rd_wg=Zf2bU&pf_rd_p=90485860-83e9-4fd9-b838-b28a9b7fda30&pf_rd_r=BT25MSVZ9F0410NMHC68&psc=1&refRID=BT25MSVZ9F0410NMHC68 These ones are tricky. There's a set of wires coming out of the bottoms of both. These went into the display stands themselves. My brother said he can't remember exactly how they worked but he thinks there's more internal components for the speakers inside the case itself. When he got these speakers, the wires connecting the speakers to the case and internals were cut. There's a chance I could be missing half of the innards of both of these speakers but I mean, a speaker is a speaker, right? It might be missing the components needed to handle volume and maybe some post audio things, but they should still work, right? Right? Btw they don't work at all. Not even lights come on. Here's the last one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKKTNEI/ref=twister_B07KWV2GFN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I dunno what's going on with this one. I think my brother said he tried it and only the power light came on but nothing else worked. I already had 3 other speakers opened up and I only have so much desk space. Thanks in advance for any help offered!
  9. Okay, here's the situation. I'm building a sleeper PC and it's gonna be the first PC I've ever built. I don't have a lot of money, so I need to make sure that the parts I buy are what I want and basically everything is right the first time around. My biggest issue was getting the old 98's power button to work on newer hardware. I spent a lot of time fussing and worrying and asking and researching it, but eventually I opened up an old Windows 7 I had lying around, figured out where the power button is plugged into, and wouldn't you know it the 98 cord is too small and won't fit. However. The 98 case I'm using has red, white, and yellow Audio/Visual cables (I don't know for sure if AV is the right abbreviation for that but I'm using it anyway) ports built into the case with a cord that runs down to the motherboard and is plugged in. And that cord fits in the power button port on the 7 motherboard. I kept the PC plugged in (I know, great idea) and I tried different positions and rotations. I also had nothing plugged into the AV ports. Surprisingly enough, the PC was able to power on with nothing plugged into the AV ports, albeit it would only kick on for a second, then power back down. I found one spot where it would loop that process (boot looping, I think?). I got nothing overall so then I tried plugging in AV cords as well and with some funkiness I can turn the PC on and off with AV cables. Now, I don't know much of anything about computer hardware, especially the intricacy of circuit boards, and I'm not gonna go start buying very expensive parts just because I got good results with 1 old computer. The most I know is that this Windows 7 has 10 pins arranged in 2x5 and the AV ports have 6 pins arranged in 2x3, and I have it plugged into the far left side of the pins. The only markings are "F_Panel" "MFG" labeled on the right side of the pins. I tried looking at pictures of motherboards to see if there's something similar to the 10 pins but I don't know and I couldn't identify anything. The AV ports that I'm using came from a Compaq Presario 4814 Windows 98 PC. The test computer I'm using is a Windows 7 HP Pavillion, and anything else that can identify it (like model number) are beyond me unless somebody tells me where to look. I'm wondering if I can replicate this on other motherboards, especially new and modern ones. I don't have any on hand and I don't know anybody who has one I can mess with. I would really prefer this method works first before I fry something very expensive. Any and all help is appreciated, and thanks in advance.
  10. I'm thinking it shouldn't be hard to find what cables correspond to the power button/turning on the machine, I just don't know what cords those would be or how to find them, and I'm not about to start sticking paper clips into sockets and prongs to find out.
  11. Thanks! So (if I did this right) the top picture is the end connector piece and the bottom one is the board itself. Some things to note: on the connector, the fourth hole on the top row is filled in/unavailable, and the cord on the far right is colored red. The cord connects to the board up top, and in that orientation the far left cord is the red one.
  12. Hello! I'm new to the forums so I don't know if I'm posting this in the right area, but aside from that the title says it all. I want a nice gaming PC and I have an old Windows 98 PC lying around. I realized it would be cool if I gutted the thing and put new and awesome parts in it (which I later learned was a sleeper PC). I disassembled the entire thing and took a look at what I have to work with. My main concern going right into it is can I use the power button already on the case? I'm using a Compaq Presario 4814 case. There's a panel up at the top containing 9 different buttons, power button included. There's a 24 pin connector attached to the circuit board containing these buttons that would normally run down to the motherboard. I have no experience with actually building PC's, but I've been looking into it and I understand it's not that hard especially if you follow instructions. However, this isn't exactly something you see regularly, so I have no idea what I'm doing. I have an old Windows 7 desktop that I used for testing purposes, but plugging the 98 power button/control panel into the 7 "power button port" on the motherboard only had the fan kick on for a second or two before powering down (using multiple configurations and plugging it into different spots). I don't have any spare parts lying around or a lot of money, so I'm aiming to get this gaming setup working first. I also don't have a parts list because I don't want to buy or plan for anything if I can't even get the case to work. Which brings me to my question: can I use the power button, even if only the power button, on new hardware, and how can I go about that? Or is this a lost cause and I should invest in a new case?
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