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Zer0BL2

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Everything posted by Zer0BL2

  1. I just bought two WD_Black SN850x NVME drives for my PC. I bought a 2tb for my games and a 1tb for my boot drive and any other files. However upon picking them up, I realized that the 1tb is only capable of up to 800,000 IOPS while the 2tb is capable of up to 1,200,000 IOPS. My question is, should I just use the 1tb as my boot drive and not worry about it? Or would it be better to use the 2tb as my boot drive and just exchange the 1tb for a 2tb? I’m not sure if there really will be a noticeable difference in any game loading times if I just don’t worry about it. Regardless, I want to have a dedicated 2tb drive for my games.
  2. Thanks for the “help” but no thanks. When I say there was a static electricity spark, I meant there was a static electricity spark. I did not leave any important information out. In fact if you actually read the whole post, you would answer almost every question you asked. Have a wonderful day.
  3. Gonna have to disagree with you. It was 100% static electricity. The PC had been running for more than 30 minutes without issue before hand. I had just peeled the plastic off the side panel and could feel the static in the air from it. As soon as I touched the side panel to the case, there was a static spark where the panel touched the case in the bottom right hand corner. Other than the occasional crash to desktop in some games, the PC boots up and plays everything without issue. Everything is mounted correctly. I have had the side panel off and on while the PC is running since then and have had zero sparks anywhere. There definitely isn’t anything bricked either. Everything functions normally except for the few occasional crashes to desktop in certain games. If something was bricked, it wouldn’t even POST.
  4. Ok, thanks for answering my question. I will try what you suggested and see what ends up being found.
  5. I will try your suggestions when I get home but I do have a question, would resetting windows through the settings fix those possibly corrupt files?
  6. I recently built a new PC with a fresh install of Windows 11 and after it was all set up and I was just putting the side panel on, I saw and heard static electricity at the corner of my case and my monitors went black while all the lights on all of the internal components stayed on. I turned the PSU off and waited a couple seconds before unplugging it and plugging it back into the wall. The PC turns on just fine but I’m getting occasional crashes to desktop in some games (RDR2 and Lego Journey) and a weird visual glitch that looks like a permanent screen tear about 1/4 of the way down the monitor only in cutscenes in Control. Could this be possibly a result of the static electricity discharge? Or am I just being paranoid? OS: Windows 11 Pro 64 bit Specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 7800X3D GPU: MSI RTX 4080 Suprim X Mobo: Gigabyte x670 Aorus Elite AX (bios version f10a) RAM: 32gb (16x2) C30 6000mhz G.Skill Trident Z5 Neo RGB with EXPO enabled PSU: Corsair RM1000x (1000 watts) Storage: WD_Black SN850x 1tb M.2 SSD
  7. Found out the problem, I was using two 8 pin power cables going into the adapter for my graphics card (the 8x2 pin to 12 pin adapter for 30 series FE cards) I switched to a single 8 pin to 8x2 pin cable and it booted right up.
  8. I do not know if the MSI board works in the Corsair case, I bought the MSI board after I had already transferred everything to the Hyte case. The MSI board has only been in the Hyte case so far. I would assume it works no problem though as it is brand new (or so I hope it works given my history with MSI). If I can get a post outside the case then I will just be switching back to my Asus board for the time being and installing everything back in my Corsair case while I RMA my current case. Good thing I ordered it through Amazon so there shouldn’t be any fuss when it comes to returning it.
  9. As I mentioned in the original post, I double checked all connections between the power supply and each component each time I swapped something out. Some people have said to try a POST test outside the case as it sounds to them like it might be a short. I will be be trying this tomorrow when I get home from work.
  10. I will definitely try a POST test outside the case, I probably should have also mentioned that I did try using a different socket that’s on a different breaker as well. Thank you for the advice!
  11. They aren’t quite as no name as you think they are, they are a subsidiary of IBuyPower which sounds bad at first but the build quality of this case is actually very good. There are many reviews on this case as well, it has great air flow and looks pretty good in my opinion. I wanted to go for a little bit of a different look while also being able to put my 360mm AIO on the top of the case, which I could not do in my 4000D. Im not sure what you mean by “You do realize motherboards are transferable”. Only reason I got a new mobo was because I thought I killed my old one. And it wasn’t going to be permanent either, I’m not a big fan of MSI because I’ve had two separate GPU’s from them DOA from two different generations. This MSI board was just the cheapest mobo I could find in my area to use temporarily. I was planning on getting an Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero in the near future. I mentioned in the post that I already double checked all the connections between the power supply and all components. I will definitely try running a POST test outside of the case. If it is a short, could it be as simple as bending a piece of metal so it’s not touching anything? Or should I just exchange the case for a new one? Thank you for the reply and helpful insight!
  12. My specs are as follows CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x GPU: FE RTX 3070 Ti Ram: 4x8 Corsair Vengeance Pro 3200 C16 Mobo: MSI B550 Gaming Plus Storage: Samsung 970 Pro 1tb NVME M.2 and WD_Black SN750 1tb NVME M.2 Cooling: Corsair H150i Elite Cappelix 360mm AIO PSU: Corsair RM1000X 1000W OS: 64bit Windows 11 Pro Bios Version: Unknown Please note that I started all this with a different motherboard than I now currently have. I started with the Asus ROG Strix B550F Gaming. I recently got a new PC Case (Hyte Y60) and transferred all my components from my old case (Corsair 4000D Airflow) to the new one. However when I went to see if it POSTed, I got absolutely nothing, not a fan spinning, not a single light on the motherboard, absolutely nothing except for a single click from the power supply. I double checked all the power supply connections, including unplugging them and plugging them back in. I tried using a different power supply (Corsair RM850x) as well as all different power supply cables and had the exact same result. I tested my GPU and Ram in a friends PC and they both worked fine. I have not tested my CPU in another rig yet but I don’t think a bad cpu would completely stop power from getting to every component in the PC, but I don’t know for sure so that’s why I am here. Next I swapped my motherboard out for the now current one in my system, an MSI B550 Gaming Plus. Still having the exact same issue. Even tried the other power supply and cables with the new motherboard and still nothing. I will be testing my CPU in my friends rig tomorrow but until then, does anyone have any ideas as to what is happening with my PC?
  13. It sucks cause the only 3080 being sold in my area is an Asus Strix one for $1600 which is ludicrous. I think I will go with the 3070 Ti then. Thank you for the response!
  14. So my current gpu (RTX 2070 Super Founders Edition) is starting to have issues and I’ve been wanting to upgrade for a while now so I’m finally pulling the trigger. However I cannot decide which gpu to get. I play at 1080p. I will be buying from a scalper because I don’t really have a choice. My two options are an RTX 3070 Ti Founders Edition for $900 cash, or an EVGA FTW3 Ultra Gaming RTX 3080 Ti for $1700. I can afford the 3080 Ti but I’m having a hard time justifying spending that much on a graphics card. I do want to point out that the MSRP of the EVGA card is $1430 so it’s a $270 markup, and the 3070 Ti is $600 so it would be a $300 markup. What are your guys thoughts on which one I should get?
  15. kind of, it kind of sounds almost like a fan is just barely hitting a wire but i check my entire case already and i reseated the gpu and made sure there are no wires in any fans.
  16. huh, yeh this buzzing sound is VERY loud. atleast right now when i have it at 120% power limit. i can hear it from the other side of my room while the fans are running quite loud as well.
  17. could you explain to me what an inductor is?
  18. I have an RTX 2070 Super Founders Edition that has been pretty quiet up until recently when i overclocked it. I raised the power limit to 120% and overclocked everything just fine but then a few hours later the card started making this weird buzzing sound that I have never heard before. I reverted my overclock but left the power limit at 120% and the buzz persisted. So i tried lowering the power limit and what do you know, the buzz decreases the lower the power limit is. Before i overclocked the card, there was no buzzing sound whatsoever and now it wont go away no matter what. The buzzing sounds like its coming from the front of the card right before where the "RTX 2070 Super" starts on the backplate. Any ideas whats going on?
  19. So I want to upgrade my cpu from a Ryzen 5 2600 to a Ryzen 7 3700x but my mobo is the Asus ROG Strix B450-f Gaming and I dont know if the chipset will effect the performance of the 3700x. I do know that I wont be able to take advantage of PCIe 4.0 with the b450 chipset, but I don't have anything that can utilize PCIe 4.0. I have no plans to overclock. All I do is play videogames. Should I upgrade my mobo or will I be fine sticking with my b450?
  20. I have the HP 25x (1080p 144hz) and I mostly play Minecraft with shaders, Overwatch, Battlefield V, Borderlands 3, and Team Fortress 2.
  21. I won't be upgrading in the near future but I still don't know of $100 justifies the performance increase. I'm not even sure how much of a performamce increase it is.
  22. So I recently bought a Founders Edition RTX 2060 Super from Best buy for $400. I still have about 11 days to return it. Would it be worth it to return the 2060 Super and spend an extra $100 for the RTX 2070 Super? I don't know if $100 is worth the performance increase for gaming.
  23. Which card is better for gaming? According to UserBenchMark they are about the same in terms of FPS but I wanted more input on the subject.
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