circeseye

looks like you have buttons for volume. the copper lines or most likely the solder on the  pcb board inside might be broken and not contacting fully.
you could if able open it up and look it over. and might be able to reheat the solder ares to fix the contacts.
 
if its the dial from a different version...again youll need to open it up and use electronic cleaner. get some into the pot and move the dial up and down to clean the tracks
 
 

ive been reading through this thread
https://www.avsforum.com/threads/official-panasonic-dp-ub820-824-owners-thread-no-price-talk.2990966/page-475
 
you have everything set up right from what i see and read.
the only thing i see is the panasonic doesnt support atmos
This unit supports high bit rate audio (Dolby®
Digital Plus, Dolby ® TrueHD, DTS-HD High
Resolution Audio TM and DTS-HD Master Audio TM)
adopted in BD-Video.
https://valueelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/01/Panasonic_DP-UB820_USA_user_manual_edited_A.pdf
 
so im guessing you need to set your marantz to upscale the audio to atmos. and its set to play whats being sent to it.

I would try another HDMI port on the receiver. Multichannel audio on the receiver typically is something set by the user. If not, contact Denon about it.

win 11...denon x3700h, 6800xt gpu, latest firmware. drop outs literally started after windows update around march.
it will work as long as its the first thing playing. you click off of it or even stop what your watching and switch to something else. drop sound...only way to fix it is go into sound settings and switch to another setting then back each time, and as far as i can tell the 4 height speakers dont play
has nothing to do with avr. tested it with a comp not updated atmos and dts work fine
ive tried reinstalling drivers and everything to get it to work like it did before that update
another thing is before the update my avr showed atmos or dts when set and when available like a atmos show all speakers worked...after update all it will show is multi channel after the first thing playing. 7.1 and 5.1 work fine avr shows what is being sent to it being dd or dts

unfortunately thats ips drawback. ips doesnt do black very good. hell even lg's ips tvs you need a light on to see decent blacks. otherwise in a dark room you can tell its not black.
you want good blacks you need lcd or best blacks oled
ips is more for good color. you get a good ips panel its color gammet is just under oled except for the blacks

I want to keep this thread on-topic. Please do not post random information without sources. This will mislead people who don't know anything about Dolby Vision which has extremely limited documentation especially on Windows.

I'll repeat what people want out of this thread:
We want a way to legally acquire a Dolby Vision license for Windows, so we can view Dolby Vision content with our self-built devices. Right now, it appears only pre-built machines allow outputting Dolby Vision and only on the built-in display.
 
For whatever reason, we cannot output Dolby Vision content in Dolby Vision to a compatible display (like a brand new LG OLED) from Windows.
 
To be clear, this works with Dolby Atmos for Home Theater (not the headphone one), and it's completely free via the Dolby Access app. It'd be great if something like "Dolby Vision for External Displays" was also installed as part of that app.

yea it sounds like your denon is set on the wrong thing. try to set it to auto for the format.

yea you can. you need to run dual monitor in windows. set tv as primary. its the only way
once done in video settings take the avr and place it corner to corner so you have a less of a time accidentally mousing over to it.
 
 
otherwise youll need some sort of a hdmi splitter.
this sort of seems to do the job. avsforum has people with it saying it works good compared to amazon reviews
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Splitter-Support-Toslink/dp/B0755TB82Q

yea gauge is important, longer it is more resistance so bigger better, longer you go. as for brand? meh as long as its got a good sleeve. most rooms wont need beyond 14 gauge
12 gauge is usually a good go to. 14 gauge thou no worries.(im s stickler lol, want the signal free flowing) and theres barely a price difference between the 2 when you buy it in 100ft rolls.
on a side note subwoofer cable i highly recommend "Digital Coaxial Cable with RCA Connections" MUCH cleaner signal

optical hdmi cable for starters. if that isnt enough the add a hdmi extender/booster

ummmm cost? you just recommended a hundreds of dollars fix.

ok i guess i should have went back to duel monitor and redid.....(i went direct to avr because duel was annoying and it would randomly crash the driver when i turn the tv off so i sacrificed dv for it at the time)
i redid my old set up and your right dv dont work now. and i know it used to
YES it did work before...netflix and disney+. the game that worked in dv for me was cyberpunk. dolby vision would pop up top right. the screen tone would change.
 
now heres the kicker im seeing. in jan i went single to avr. about march windows did an update and atmos and dts stopped working right. (it worked but only one thing can play audio and id have to reset my avr to hear anything afterward, still does it today) but either way windows broke dolby
im guessing it effected dv too. (i wouldnt be suprised).
 
i apologize. i should have re-verified. i just know it USED to work

disney+, and netflix app on windows do dolby vision. if the movie or show supports it my lg pops up dolby vision.
watching on browsers will not work
amazon and hulu as far as ive seen dont output dv
games are hit and miss
video files dv encoded will not work. i havent yet found a player that can do them correctly.
even with all the extensions

yea for minimum atmos youd need a 7.1/5.1.2 avr. 500 will get you a low end, refurbished, or used avr.
you couldnt even get a atmos sound bar set up for 500.
 
if avr your best bet would be to start small....get a avr and left/right speakers...the as time goes a center, a set of rears, subwoofer. then decide on how you want the atmos speakers (ceiling mounted or throw speakers)
 
or maybe something like this sound bar set up (it will be better then tv speaks)
https://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-Elevate-Immersive-High-Performance-Speakers/dp/B09ZX1W6Q6/ref=sr_1_9?crid=1C1N2WVGVBE68&keywords=atmos+soundbar&sprefix=atmos%2Caps%2C278&sr=8-9

yea your going to have to supply more info
price point
room size
do you want 5.1.2 or up to 7.1.4
 
most costly will be an avr.....denon, yamaha, or marantz would be my top 3 (oh and depending on amount of speakers will determine cost of avr, once you go past 7.1 or 5.1.2 the avrs jump in price AND some require a external amp to run 2 speakers)
speakers ....center and left/right are most important.......majority of audio goes to center. left/right because of stereo dont go cheap on these
surrounds....they dont work as hard as the c-l-r speakers but i highly recommend bi-polor speakers
atmos.... that can be an issue because they are ceiling speakers. if you dont have attic access much less able to run the wires up to them. then the ones that bounce sound on the ceiling will have to do. (unless you mount speakers boxes to the ceiling but wont look good)
 
and you dont need to get everything right away AND all the speakers dont need to be the same company or set either.(i have a jbl center, yamaha left/right, fluance surrounds, yamaha atmos, alpine sub - 7.1.4 all said and done mine ran about 3000)

i just bought 2 hisense 4k tvs for the bedrooms and put on a white screen. they dont look like that.
id say you got a bad panel

if your avr doesnt have hdmi 2.1 then the best option is running dual monitor and go comp to tv and comp to avr.
earc on lg outside input then to earc to avr doesnt work correctly. the tv apps work just fine with earc and surround.
 
but honestly the best is upgrade avr to one with hdmi 2.1 and go comp to avr (set bypass video) to tv.

I'd recommend you start by looking at what's available in your area, and then use this:
https://www.rtings.com/tv
 
Best TV review site I've ever seen. Their reviews are really in depth and comprehensive, and they allow you to easily compare different models.
 
For that price, you're definitely not getting OLED - you might be able to get Quantom Dot (QDOT, QLED, etc). For HDR, peak brightness is often very important, but RTings has a specific HDR score you can compare.

goto rtings. com...look up your model. they usually have a recommended settings for a lot of tvs

the problem with that list thou...if you look at pretty much any regular high speed hdmi, they all are capable of 4k60hz......hell standard hdmi do they even sell them anymore? and yea ultra is a scam lol

you want a good solid mount? try this. it says up to 100lbs 70" but it can even hold bigger. (i have a 75" on it, 65" on another)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMF9SQM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
 
dont take chances that your mount might fail. its cheaper to get a heavier duty mount for a tv

Put on top of cabinet to eliminate any sizing issues. You will badly limit your choices is you restrict the size of them.
 
Denon and yamaha are my two suggestions.
 
Just choose one that meets how many speakers you will end up with.
And it supports your needs like 4k hdr, Dolby vision,  Dolby atmos etc
 
7 channels is usually the starting recommendation  for Dolby atmos support

https://www.rtings.com/

denon avr-x3700h and a pioneer 2 channel amp running 7.1.4
fronts - Yamaha NS-6490 3-Way Bookshelf Speakers
center - Yamaha  NS-C210BL
sides and rears - Fluance Elite High Definition 2-Way Bipolar Speakers
ceiling -  Yamaha NS-IW280CWH 6.5" 3-Way directional inceiling
sub - alpine 12" 400 watt
$1000 in speakers $2000 for denon and pioneer

Try turn on HDMI Deep Color at TV and also choose RGB color at Windows.