ryzenuser

That's at the beginning of his post...

Sounds like a faulty mobo indeed.

That was weird about the sunshine.
 

No idea. I don’t use limited ram and I keep the igpu on all the time. 
Sounds like a simple software issue. 
 

Are you sure it's soldering and not bad capacitors?
 
Replace that motherboard (RMA maybe if you have the warranty, it should be since those boards usually have 36 months).
Try the GPU in a different PC.

No.  I’m saying if it works when warmed but not when cold, some part of your PC is possibly only barely functional.  There are a bunch of things that might do this.  A cracked solder joint might work when warm, but not when cold.  Heat expands things.  Lots of solder joints in a PC though and I have no idea where it might be.  A barely still alive battery might also do it.  It might even be a software issue, and leaving it out kills the power from the clock battery resetting everything.
 
The only thing I know to do is start replacing individual parts with known good ones until the problem goes away.  An expensive and time consuming thing to do.  General practice is to start with the easiest cheapest stuff first.  The clock battery is cheap.  Couple of bucks.  That might already have been done though.
 
PSU got tested as working.
Fans got tested as working.
 
MoBo May or may not have a problem because it’s actually a bunch of different things stuck together.  Basic power to it apparently works, but that doesn’t mean other parts may not be bad.
 
Intermittant shorts are a PITA because sometimes they work anyway even if they’re the problem.
 
You might be able to test the heat theory by putting the whole machine in a warm place for a while and see if it suddenly works.  Its not reliable though.

sunshine may not have to do with dryness but heat. The sun is hot. If so there may be an intermittent short somewhere. Clearly there is something that is only barely just working somewhere. Where in your system I have no idea.

Hi!
Can you try to test the electricity from your outlet? It sounds like maybe you have inconsistent power delivery to your PSU.

It could quite possibly be the PSU, just because it works without load doesn't mean it can't run a PC. I'd turn off all power, unplug the PC and short out the CMOS reset, get a PC speaker and connect it to the board so you can hear the beeps, if you get 3 beeps it means RAM issue (depending on board), the VS550 isn't exactly a good PSU, one of the cheapest nastiest Corsair have ever had on their lineup.

Ehh..... may be a dead mobo or bad ram then..... again really hard to tell here sad to say.

Hrm, it could still be bad RAM or dead motherboard.
I mean yes the machine is only a year old but that doesnt matter.
A part can break rather if its old or brand new.
I would see if you can get another stick of RAM, or a dual channel kit.
I mean we ruled out the power supply so next is to see if its the motherboard or the RAM.
The easier to diagnose is the ram so try that first.
Even try the ram in another slot and see if that works.

Are you sure its not a RAM issue?
As you only have 1 stick in there and that can be a big  factor here, Ryzen needs dual channel.

Is your BIOS updated to run the APUs?

Check your power cables, specifically the 24 pin and 4+4 pin to see if they worked loose. Also you could try taking the components out of the case and testing there, where it's easier to see if everything is pluggd in correctly.

thanks mate, I will definitely do that and post the results soon.

You could try applying a new thermal compound, if you're able to take the laptop apart a bit.

Not surprised considering its from 2012 and is AMD. That cpu is 64bit enabled so you can force a 64bit version of windows if you fancy and possibly slide some more ram in there, up to you considering you're gaining access to the motherboard.

So you wan't to browse the net full of spyware etc with an operating system riddled with security issues? win10 32 will be plenty for what you want my man.
 
Its in an old laptop mate, i don;t thin his bios etc will allow what you're asking him to do....

You can try, but i doubt your laptop motherboard will allow it.

@ryzenuser try undervolting your CPU. Here's some instructions on how to do it: 
- Download Intel XTU and AIDA64, and restart your system.
- Open up Intel XTU and click 'advanced tuning' on the left side.
- Set the Core Voltage Offset to -0.025V and stress test your CPU (run AIDA64) for 10 to 15 minutes. 
- If AIDA64 doesn't crash, continue to undervolt your CPU by increments of -0.025V.
- If AIDA64 does crash or you get a BSOD, dial back the Core Voltage Offset to something you know is stable.
 
- To give you some context, my 4700HQ dropped 15°C under load with a -0.125V undervolt.

windows installed 32bit as you only have 2gb of ram, windows 7 will probably do the same and XP is trash and no longer has support, so thats a yikes from me.

That's now idle, Looks like you need to take the thing apart, clean out the fan and cooler unit's fins. I would see if the heatsink is copper or not, if copper i'd be tempted to use liquid metal on the die, but i'd use nail polish to protect any uncovered possible shorts. but...... I'm not the common user.

If you have some thermal paste its time to replace, if not thermal grizzly has very high thermal conductivity. Laptops really suffer from heat issues. Summer is a death sentence for them, high ambient temps, crappy cooler, doesn't take a genius to see that its not a good combo.
 
Thats the best actual advice i can give you.

open up task manager, see what's going on mate, also check windows update in settings. I can't help you further based on the information given I'm advising one thing you're saying its not possible.

Further information required.

its dowloading updates, you said its idle, your screenshot literally shows it's not idle, at all.

 
CPU TOTAL : 62.5%
CPU CORE #1 : 43.8%
CPU CORE #2 : 81.3% <- You think this is idle?

Frankly im surprised im the first one to notice this at teh time of typing....

Are you sure you're not mistaking Mb and MB? Your data rate is roughly 12 Mbps down 0.5 Mbps up. 12Mbps equals to roughly 1.5 MBps.
Your line MAX is about 18Mbps and the ISP limited your speed to 12. They could optimize the profile a bit, maybe you could gain 15 max...
 
Ask the ISP for a better (new) modem/router and try with it.