Jakers038

I have an older Dell L702x with a Win 10 pro and up to now everything was fine, but maybe due to some update or something (not the latest one, but it started happening a while ago), the Windows software protection task thing has been devouring my cpu resources and doing it in 10, 20 second intervals. For example it completely goes crazy and spins the fans loudly, then everything goes to normal and then it starts again and so on. I've tried suspending the task (which works for 20 seconds), I tried disabling it in the task scheduler and I even tried going to the registry editor and writting 4 instead of 2 in HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\sppsvc ....and this finally worked...for one or two days, after which it started showing up again, even though the registry thing still has 4 written. Basically I've tried all the options listed here https://www.askvg.com/how-to-disable-or-fix-microsoft-software-protection-plat-form-service-causing-high-cpu-usage/

A few months ago I had the same thing happen, when I was opening up the laptop to clean up a bit and I used an old screwdriver that had some rubbery tiny pieces for hand grip that were falling off it. One or two of those pieces fell in the battery opening and when I tried returning the battery, the battery didn't fit or align correctly and that same orange - white flashing light appeared. Just one color followed by the other in fast intervals without any specific sequences. Once I cleaned the junk from the battery space, it fit in perfectly and I never had the issue ever again...until now. I can run the laptop both on the battery and plugged in, but the orange - white is constantly flashing the entire time and if I try to plug the cable while the laptop is running, it will not charge at all, instead it will stay at for example 39% or whatever it was. However, if I do not turn on the laptop and I plug in the cable, it will charge completely and it will not show the orange white flash, it will just show the regular white charging light like it should. I cleaned the battery space, the battery itself, the metal pin things seem to be great and the battery itself is bought just a few weeks ago, so could some other component be filled with dirt or something and give the same warning light, considering that it is specifically the battery symbol? I tried even playing video games and pushing it a bit to see if there are any problems or artifacts, but nothing, everything seems to be working perfectly, but the orange white flashing and no charging means there must be something wrong.

I have an I7 2670QM (with a HD3000 igpu) and the 3gb ddr3 GT555M, 8gb ram and an ssd, which isn't much, but I think it should be enough to play Gta 4 with the lowest possible settings and 800x600 resolution without stutters, but I still get stutters and low frames even with such low settings. I know that Gta 4 is said to be a bad port, but even the older gta San Andreas gets stuttery if I go around 1280x1024 or higher resolution, I'm not sure if it's even a low framerate or rather a decent framerate that gets stutters every few seconds due to a bottleneck of some sort (which I guess could be the igpu slowing down the dedicated gpu somehow) I also tried running Gta 5 without shadows (turned off outside the game in some config file) and set everything as low as possible, but it was basically unplayable. I tried setting max power and all other things in the Nvidia panel, running only on cable, I tried various Nvidia drivers, but if I right click on the desktop and go into the display > advanced display settings, it still shows the integrated gpu. There are no bios settings I was able to find related to the gpu and there are no switches I found, so I don't know what else to try. When I am gaming, the laptop does get pretty hot and loud, so maybe I am running the dedicated gpu, but that it is somehow bottlenecked, I don't know.. For comparison, here's a video of some guy using a 2gb ddr3 GT 630, an I5 2320 and afaik both of those are weaker or comparable to my GT555M and I7 2670QM, the only significant advantage is him using 16 gigs of ram, but I don't think that the issue is as simple as getting 8 more gigs. He can run Gta V at 1600x900 in more than playable 30+ frames, while I get less than 20fps with the lowest possible resolution and shadows completely turned off.

I tried MSI Kombustor, since I have Afterburner and I guess they go hand in hand and...nothing. I tried running both the 1440p preset and ticking the boxes including artifact scanner and "run stress test", I tried various tests from the list, but there's zero artifacts when I put clocks and power to default, even though in both Gta and Odyssey I have the issues. I put both clocks to -150 and power to 98% and it seems to be good enough for Gta, I maybe get one stutter in 5 minutes or so, which is tolerable, in Odyssey the faces still "vibrate", but less somehow, though outside of cutscenes everything seems fine, so I guess I'll just run these settings or lower for another 50mhz and 1% power, I guess that isn't that big of a sacrifice to performance if I'll get smooth frames.

I got a used 1080 and at first glance it runs great, Gta V runs at 1440p with mixed ultra/high settings at 120-150+ FPS and is buttery smooth...except it occasionally has stutters that last half a second and as far as I've understood, they mostly happen in vegetation rich areas in the middle of the city where there's a lot of things to render. Another game where I have issues is AC:Odyssey, where specifically in cutscenes the faces of npc's kind of "vibrate" a little, just enough to be noticeable and it's really weird. Before this I had a 1080 Ti (with the same exact rest of the hardware, 5800x, 32gb ram, m2 and ssd) and it was used for mining by previous owners (as this one was probably as well) and it had small microstutters in Gta V and also various artefacts in AC:Oddysey's cutscenes, which I completely fixed by lowering the memory clock in Afterburner. Another problematic card I had was a 6700XT, which worked fine on older drivers, but had microstutters on newer ones. I first looked at FPS monitor and every single stat (VRAM, power, cpu,etc. was ideal), then I tried getting older drivers for the 1080 (and not installing geforce experience), that didn't do anything, I tried adjusting the power settings in the nvidia control panel, which also didn't do anything and lastly I randomly put in -300mhz in afterburner for both the base and memory, as well as 96% power limit and that fully fixed the problem, I even raised the graphics settings in Gta V and there still wasn't a single stutter or microstutter. The problem is that then I slowly tried backtracking and returning the base clock to default, then the power limit to 100% and finally memory clock to default and the stutters didn't appear as much, despite my settings returning to the way they were originally, so I can't replicate the issue all the time and I don't want to lower my Afterburner settings too much and miss on performance I might have without the issues appearing (ie. maybe just -50mhz for memory clock or just 99% for power is enough, but I don't know how to test it) Also, Furmark doesn't seem to show any issues and weirdly it gives me more or less the same FPS whether I put in 85% or 100% power limit, which makes no sense.

Well, I apparently fixed it and it was a pretty dumb issue. First I reverted to the previous windows update (one which I used back with the 1080 Ti), I tried installing much older AMD drivers and none of it worked. I put the 1080 Ti instead and it ran great and smooth, so windows or the games weren't the issue and neither were the amd drivers, since older ones didn't work better either. Then when I put the RX6700XT back in, I made sure to press it as hard as I can so that there's no chance of it not entering the slot correctly, and then I noticed that it was leaning length-wise into the interior part of the case, no matter how much I pushed it in or wiggled it, it was always leaned into the front of the case. The only way I could make it lean normally is to push it by force towards the back of the case, for the screw holes on the gpu/case to align. It felt like it's tightened way too much and I didn't want to damage it, so I didn't do that before, but this time I did, I tightened the screw in the back of the case as much as I can and now there's no stuttering at all. I played GTA V for an hour, I think I even upped some settings, I drove fast through the most dense areas with most cars and npc's and I don't think there was a single microstutter, while before I couldn't play for 10 seconds without experiencing several large and small stutters. I also tried American truck simulator and it was also perfectly smooth the entire time.

Perhaps, but that's just an example, the point is that every game I try out has more or less the same issues, which weren't present with the 1080 Ti. BeamNG is another example, ran perfectly fine with the 1080 Ti, but suddenly became a stuttery mess with the new card, even with lowered settings and me reinstalling the game and deleting all mods. Tomb Raider, Uncharted 4, I can go on and on, so it's not specific to one game.

I have a relatively new Ryzen 5800X, 32gb of RAM, SSD and a M.2, and from recently, the potential problem causer, AMD 6700XT There are no artefacts or crashes of any sort, but almost every single game I try out, I experience constant bigger or smaller stutters, Gta V for example stutters every few seconds even on normal/low 1080p settings equally as it does on ultra 1440p settings, while the fps itself doesn't seem problematic, plus every 10, 15 seconds a frame flashes white and it's hard to notice, but it keeps happening regardless of the settings or vsync on/off. I can even use the super resolution thing to render at 4k ultra and the fps is still playable, so it doesn't seem to be an issue of power or vram, but something else. Some lighter weight games like Farming Simulator are unplayable due to stuttering, while most like Vice City DE, Just Cause 3 and ETS2 are playable, but still have a lot of microstutters to annoy you the entire time. Interestingly, AC Odyssey doesn't stutter at all at in 1440p ultra settings and I played it yesterday for like 4 or 5 hours and went through cities, forests, cutscenes, but it was perfectly smooth. It's important to note that a few months ago (while having the exact same hardware) I used to have a 1080 Ti, which uses more power (so it's not a PSU issue), which the previous owner used for mining and which had a failing vram (I had to lower the memory clock by 200mhz for it to not produce artefacts), but even that semi-broken 1080 Ti didn't give me these microstutters and I could play all of the problematic games I mentioned without any issues. For example Farming simulator was perfectly playable and I spent dozens of hours playing it with the 1080 Ti, but with the new card I can't even walk around for 10 seconds without the stutters making me rage quit. Now that I think of it, the problems started from the very first day, since I remember playing Vice city DE after installing the RX6700XT and I was horrified how many stutters there were and attributed it to the game and didn't think much of it. I tried removing all gpu drivers in safe mode with DDU and reinstalling everything from scratch, but nothing. I tried reseating the card and repluging the PSU, but again, nothing. I tried running Furmark and I didn't get any errors or anything. Windows shouldn't be the issue either, as I had the 1080 Ti some 2, 3 months ago and I didn't change or install anything important on my computer in the meantime other than the new GPU drivers. I also didn't touch anything in Afterburner with the new card. The only thing that comes to mind is to install the old 1080 Ti and see whether I still get the same problems, but I don't have time or will to do it at the moment and bother with reinstalling all the drivers, so I'll try that later.

I lowered both the core and memory, so I am not sure which one worked, could I lower the memory to -200, but keep the clock at 0? Would that even make sense?

I recently got a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Turbo, which I know was used for mining, and even though in the start everything was working fine, I discovered that in some specific high load cases the games crash or cause artifacts. For example in AC Odyssey there are strong artifacts during cutscenes, but not really during anything else, even at ultra settings. In Beamng and ETS2 I often get completely random crashes, though usually when there's a lot of stuff on the screen like loads of cars, a forest and so on, basically a high load scenario. I played GTA V as well on ultra settings and didn't see any issues at all. Lastly, I ran Furmark at various settings and didn't see any artifacts, though the temp was around 85c if I remember correctly. I have a great case, but it's still a turbo type of a GPU, so maybe that's the reason, either way, other than the temps, I didn't see anything problematic. So...what could cause such an issue? I reintalled various drivers, so that's not it. I have a Ryzen 5800x, 750W psu, 32gb RAM, win 10, a solid drive and an m2, all bought within the last year or two, most importantly, I had a even stronger 1080 Ti Palit jetstream up to 2, 3 months ago, but I was short on cash and sold it, with that card I had zero such issues and I even OC'd it a little. Meanwhile this Gigabyte turbo is not only slower by default, but I even slowed it down by 200mhz (both clock and memory) and I guess that is a short term "fix".

Perhaps, I wanted to see if it will center itself like cars with lane assist do, it does try to center itself forcefully, but ends up doing that. There's a few other people on youtube with the same shaking problem and it seems that it's not a hardware problem, but something to do with FF settings, maybe they are way too strong as it is.

I just bought my first wheel, so I am not sure how they are supposed to feel, but I'm pretty sure I have a problem with mine, hopefully just with the settings. I tried it in both AC and Forza 5 (default settings for both) and a) it's very hard to move it and b) once I let it go, regardless if I move it fast or if just make a tiny adjustment, it starts violently shaking for infinite time or until I slow down or grab the wheel. It doesn't do this when the car is stopped or very slow. I set gain for FF in AC to 0% and that "fixed" the problem, but then I had zero resistence and it was like spinning a disk on your finger, so that's not the solution. I also tried both the default and turning on the experimental options and gyroscope, but nothing. I downloaded something called logitech gaming software, which just seems to be about button placement, there was a calibration during installing, but it didn't change anything. Overall whatever it is, it is related to the force feedback and it acts the same exact way in both games.

Just to report what I went with, I got the 32 one (31.5) and it looks and feels great. Even though the ppi is about the same as a standard full hd 24' monitor, due to the increased size, it seems like there's a lot more details and everything just looks way better, for example road textures, car plates,etc. look much larger and sharper. I even tried 1080p with Gta V and it still looked great, I expected it to look blurry, but it didn't, though I don't have perfect vision and I sat at half a meter, but nonetheless.

I know nothing about operating websites to be honest, I did have a "test" website on Weebly years and years ago, which was easy to design using the built-in tools, but I didn't plan on making any money of of it and I got bored of it, it also didn't have a domain name, but the annoying .weebly.com in the end, since it was a free website. Now I have several ideas for websites and I am willing to have a weekly news/blog type of a website, maybe another different one as well, but I want to make some money of of them. I know that you can easily design sites using Squarespace and such sites, but can I get a regular domain right away? For example instead of Sitexyz.squarespace.com, to have just sitexyz.com? If yes, how do I then make money from it, does S-space automatically put Adsense on your pages or do you have to do it on your own somehow, and is there a waiting period of some sort, maybe having to reach an x amount of views before you are eligible? I already do have a Adsense account I made for youtube, so not sure if I can use that, but even if not, I can make a new one, but it's how I connect the website to it that's bothering me.

I'm ok with that, as long as it doesn't cause any issues.

Biostar H61MLV3 Ver. 8.0

There's not a lot of DDR3 ram's anymore and I can't buy a new cpu and motherboard at the moment just to get ddr4, so I bought the only available sticks I could find which are 1800mhz, since I thought that my mobo supports that speed, even though it's a cheaper one. It however supports only up to 1600mhz, so what should I do now, should I run the 1800mhz sticks I already got (which I think should run at 1600mhz nonetheless) or should I return them and wait for the pretty much equally priced 1600mhz ones to get shipped, which could be days?

I was thinking about a 24.5 1080p monitor, but it's ppi is the same as my current 22inch 1680x1050 and since I am going to keep the new monitor for years and years, I decided to increase the budget and get something better. My main goal is immersion, I consider immersion when I play games like Gta V and RDR2 in first person because of how things look bigger and not toy-ish like they do in 3rd person. With that in mind, I decided to go with 1440p and either a 27 or 32 inch monitor. My current 22 inch 1680x1050 monitor is 90.05 ppi 1440P 27 is 108.79 ppi 1440P 32 is 91.79 ppi (or 93.24 ppi) For reference 1080p 24 is 91.79 (exact same as 1440p 32) and 1080p 27 is 81.59 So all in all, if I go with the 32 1440p, the ppi will be about the same as what I have now, barely better, and it will be the exact same as 1080p 24' what many people consider standard I guess. Sitting at 50cm (20 inch) from the screen, I don't really notice any pixels, I only kinda start seeing them at 30cm or so. So...is that what I am looking for if I want the games to look "larger" than they do with my current 22 inch monitor? I could also go for a smaller screen and a 108.79 ppi, but if I already don't see pixels, would there even be a point? My use cases will be gaming, Gta V, AC Odyssey, RDR 2, also strategies like Supreme ruler and HOI 4, Microsoft Flight sim (I have a GTX 1080 Ti, which should be enough even for 1440p) and also some 3d modeling, photoshop and video editing from time to time, but just as a hobby once a month, so I don't really consider it a big factor.

I have an old LG W2234S monitor that's 1680x1050 and 22 inches (ppi 90.05), but that only has a VGA connection (I'm using a DP to VGA converter), I am looking to finally upgrade to proper 1080p and maybe get a bigger screen as well. 1440p and 4k screens are way out of my budget, so instead I found a Displayport monitor that is 1080p and that's 24.5 wide (ppi of 89.9) If I go for it, will I even notice the barely lower PPI, will it look more or less the same or will it be much better looking, since it's digital, instead of the analogue signal, and will I notice the difference in the size going form 22 to 24.5 inches?

I am using my PC as well...a PC, but I also have a smart TV (but a generic very weak one, so basically useless, apps barely run,etc.) and I'd like to run a IPTV on it. The PC would run the IPTV and the video and audio would be viewed on the TV via a HDMI cable. I can already do that, however, can I do that and at the same time separately use my PC, play games,etc. and have for example games shown on my computer monitor and game sounds go over the motherboard speakers, but the TV dispay run the IPTV program and have it's video and audio over HDMI?

Well there's that other way to get it that pretty much 95% of people here in East Europe use, not that I am telling anyone to, but the game still exists there I have played it actually before, but I forgot about it, but yes, I think most cars are non-European, but nonetheless it's a good example. If games like Gta and Watch dogs got licences, then maybe they would also have regular real life cars, which would be amazing, but will probably never happen.

While games like Need for Speed, Forza, Burnout Paradise,etc. are fun, they mostly lack one type of cars, those that consist the huge majority of cars in the world - everyday cars. Obviously they are not as fast and interesting to most gamers, so that's the reason why there's so little of them, but for example even after 15 or so years I still remember driving the Peugeot 206 (a bit stronger engine, but still counts) from Underground 2, a game which also has a Ford Focus (and it's not the sporty SVT version) and an Audi A3 (this one did have a sport engine). How many games are there that have cars like the BMW's E46 sedan (non-M), the E90, E39 or E38, the Mercedes C W203, Honda Accord, VW Passat or Jetta, Ford Mondeo, Peugeot 307 or 407, Audi A4, Seat Leon, Renault Megan and Laguna? These are just some of cars that in their mid range have engines from 120 to 160hp, some have even more, like the E46 330i, which is not a sport edition of the car and has the same beautiful and elegant appearance of other stock engined ones, but with around 230hp and top speed of 250km/h, which makes it anything, but a boring car. Currently the only way I know to experience these cars in games is either 1. Gta V mods (and even among them you're not likely to find most of these cars, at least not in good quality) and 2. Low quality addons for clunky feeling games, City car driving, Euro truck simulator (fine for trucks, but no so much for cars), maybe BeamNG and maybe something I'm forgetting. Are there any other more decent options that I'm not aware of?

Nope and I never actually installed windows myself (though ironically I changed every single part of hardware, including switching a PC case and connecting it to a motherboard, which is harder than almost anything else), so I'm a bit afraid of screwing something up tbh, so I have a few questions: 1. What do I need? Do I need a usb flash drive or can I just have the install files on one of my two drives? (an ssd where the os is currently at and a hdd) , I don't have a windows cd or even a cd reader on my pc case, so it has to be one of those two. 2. Where do I get the actual files for the installation? My pc service guy installed a pirated version with his flash stick a long time ago, then in the meantime I bought a key online to get rid of the watermark thing, so now I have an activated version, but I only got the key when I bought that, no files. Also, do I even need to buy it anymore (because of the watermark) or is windows now completely free? I know that something became free recently, but I don't know what exactly. 3. Once I get whatever files I need in a flash drive or hdd or wherever I need them, do I select that drive to boot from instead of my current ssd? 4. Do I wipe the C partition completely and install Windows there?

Basically I want to reset Windows 10 (1903), but I can't because I keep getting a message that says that resetting failed and that no changes were made. At first I tried resetting with keep files and data, but after that failed, I tried to reset without keeping data and that also didn't work. So what am I even supposed to do? I've been pressing the check for updates for windows for days now,but I don't even get any real updates, just antivirus definitions. Mixed reality doesn't work and can't be fixed even after reinstalling it and Forza Horizon 4 also stopped working, reinstalled it, but again nothing, so I think that something with windows is problematic, but since I can't reset it, then I have no idea what to do. I found this video, I only tried the first method and it didn't work, I didn't bother with the other methods since most comments seem to say that nothing worked for them.

Copying mozilla's profiles is obviously not that hard, but there's a lot of info on various programs that's stored in the registry, in the application data, ProgramData and such folders. Good news is that I saw another guy that just got the same problem yesterday with the same gpu, which I just bought yesterday, which is when I discovered the issue after not using VR for months, so maybe it's just a problem with a current windows update and that gpu, since he says he never had the problem before and maybe I was just unlucky to get the GPU right now when this problem is happening, which might mean that it will get fixed soon on its own.