Gessler555

Never mind guys, I found it!

The RMe is a red flag for me because of the low quality fan and the annoying fan noise.
The MSI and HXi are both high end and good choices. I would go for the cheapest of these two units.

I recently got the uselessly expensive new version HXi with 12VHPWR cable for my new 4070ti. I also use iCue and it's all working great - fan is very quiet and is usually not spinning unless I am gaming and even then it's virtually silent. My only complaint is that it uses the Type-4 cables instead of the cables my old AX power supply used which meant I could no longer use the fancy braided cables I bought a decade ago. So, I'll either be sleeving my own or buying some overpriced CableMod cables - my case looks matter to me since my windowed case is right on my desk two feet from my face.

Why not get a monitor arm instead? https://www.arctic.de/en/X1-3D/AEMNT00062A
I can recommend:

The build as outlined strikes me as likely much more expensive than necessary. I'm not a fan of committing to a single vendor.
 

Build looks fine, the 14700k's extra E cores being worth it over the 13700k (especially if this new API they developed takes off that smartly uses E cores). I don't think any trimming would result in much, regarding part choices outside of any potential shortages of said specific part, so
 
I'd look at a kit of RAM with good speed and good timings, I'm not certain what that is right now, but I wouldn't sacrifice low+tight timings for the highest speed possible. Ryzen is more sensitive to that but should be the same case for Intel's 14th generation.
 
CORSAIR Vengeance RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin PC RAM DDR5 7200 (PC5 57600) Desktop Memory Model CMH32GX5M2X7200C34 - Newegg.com
I haven't built/played with any high performance LGA1700 platforms yet (only non-K SKUs so far) but this kit seems to have really good timings for the speed and price.
DDR5 7200 (PC5 57600) Timing 34-44-44-96  
Corsair's iCUE ecosystem is quite flexible, so I wouldn't expect any Corsair branded products to conflict massively with older generation parts.

You should not buy any of it, it is value VA and value VA is bad.

Based on my recent research, I think the best gaming 32" 1440p gaming monitor might currently be the Samsung Odyssey G7 (which already has a very-premium price), or the G8 if someone is able to spend an obscene amount on a monitor. I think I saw the G7 refurbished for a more reasonable price at that time, of around $500 CAD. I was looking into it and weighing it against an Asus PG329Q, and went with the Asus because I wanted a flat-screen monitor.

No, it's more than capable.  Just use the adapter.  You'll be none the wiser other than the money you'll save.

The TDP of the i5 13600K is reported at average 125W (181 at max turbo) according to google.
 
My air cooler which is a bequiet dark rock pro does this happily with 250W TDP cooling capacity. I imagine an AIO is more than capable 🙂
Why did I go for an air cooler? Simply for reliability & cost. As a student I needed something I didnt have to worry about too much. Maybe one day I get an AIO, who knows.
 
In my experience the i5 13600K is not a pain in the A%$ to cool
 
Sources:
BeQuiet Cooler: https://www.scan.co.uk/products/be-quiet!-dark-rock-pro-4-dual-tower-cpu-cooler-7-heatpipes-120mmplus135mm-silent-wings-pwm-fans-al?gclid=CjwKCAjwxOymBhAFEiwAnodBLDx3sBz6RaImeTgdTqe3M0rCke-F9m8RX6jf4WYVL7dEo3UyXIutaRoChCMQAvD_BwE

 
 
CPU: https://www.notebookcheck.net/Intel-Core-i5-13600K-Processor-Benchmarks-and-Specs.666493.0.html

 

The 13600K on most setups isn't really that hard to cool, there are plenty of people who get by with air coolers for keeping it cool. TechPowerUp, for instance, at stock settings kept it cool enough under full load with just an NH-U14S (the single tower cooler), and a 240mm AIO will be a much better cooler than that already. 
 
Just know it's probably worth looking at another cooler than that, the Corsair Capellix line isn't exactly known for being a good value and you can probably get something that performs better for significantly less. 

This is the motherboard im currently using:
Z790 UD AC w/ DDR5-7600: https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/Z790-UD-AC-rev-10#kf
Its missing Clear Cmos and Duel BIOS(but has BIOS flashback) and internal power on button. features but its a lot cheaper than most others, i got it for 285 CAD in march. its more like 250CAD now (like 200 USD).
It's a cheaper option for you if you dont really mind the extra features!


 

The cheapest boards that have dual BIOS are in the $400+ US range, and there's only maybe 20 boards total at most that have it on LGA 1700 (even less if you only look at Z790 boards) [EDIT: Just checked, it is 20 boards, these plus the ASRock Z690 Aqua and Aqua OC]. It is a really nice feature that should be more standard than it is, but motherboard manufacturers figure that BIOS Flashback is good enough for most situations where dual BIOS helps (I wouldn't say they're wrong, but there are still some situations where you want to use dual BIOS instead of BIOS Flashback). It's to the point that if you just want dual BIOS it's legitimately cheaper a lot of the time to just buy a second board to switch between. If you can find a deal on any of those boards, go for them as they are all pretty spectacular motherboards, but it's pretty rare to find them at a price that makes sense instead of something a bit more reasonable. 
 
As for alternatives to the Tomahawk, I'd have to check pricing to see which ones are priced accordingly, but my usual go-tos are the Gigabyte Z790 Aorus Elite and MSI Z690 Carbon/Force (same board, different color scheme) if you're willing to do BIOS Flashback. There are some other boards that are good, but those are in the US at least the ones that are generally the best value for LGA 1700 mid-high end. 

at that close of range sitting you will likely see pixel density issue and things being slightly more blurry and not as sharp as a result of stretching the pixels to fix a 32" size over 27". 27" is the recommended size for 1440p monitors for pixel density and sharpness. 

Motherboard quirk, not sure what brand it was but could well have been Gigabyte.

It's Hibernation and/or Windows Fast Boot.

The i 's will have an internal USB connection to your motherboard for pump speed and fan speed configuration and reporting to iCUE software... ie H100i

Reinstall the client.
 
You can however simply copy and paste steam games wherever you want. Just point steam to the folder you want to keep your games in and it will rediscover them.
 
Screenshots just copy them from the screenshot folder and store them somewhere.
 
A frsh install WIPES!!!!!!! a lot of stuff. Wouldnt be the first time it deletes screens and games

Hmm, what do you suggest I cut back on? The RAM or Motherboard or both?

Firmware issue that has been fixed. 980 Pro also suffered from similar issue.

if you really want it here u go 

Just one. With modern boards, it's only either the iGPU (integrated) or the dGPU (discrete). Even for the BIOS and the desktop.
 
The GPU will display 2D no matter what. If you're worried that there are no drivers, Windows installs basic drivers that are compatible with pretty much any GPU just so it's more stable in the desktop for the time being. Then you can go on and find the drivers online.
 
There really isn't much to worry about. Only problem you might run into is that the dGPU dies and you can't use the computer at all.
 
To avoid this, I personally would recommend picking the standard non-F version so that whenever you run into an issue, you can disconnect the dGPU and make use of the iGPU to troubleshoot (after a cmos reset if you're unable to access the bios). When you're using the PC normally, you can have the iGPU disabled in the bios (although I think it might disable/enable automatically with a modern BIOS, you'll have to figure this out yourself).

If you get the 12400F you must have a dGPU installed to get any output on screen, including for the BIOS. You can boot into Windows without having drivers installed for your dedicated GPU. These days Windows automatically installs the proper driver, but even if it doesn't the generic Basic Display Adapter driver that is built into Windows will give you an output before you install the driver. 

The 68% seems to be tracking the "wear leveling count" which I think is the indicator of estimated drive endurance left. It is normal for this to go down with use, and nothing to worry about until it gets really low.

I thought I remember it having a percentage, guess I was thinking of WD's or SanDisk's software then. It does give the amount of data written though, which you can use to calculate the estimated remaining life. I couldn't find an official total bytes written (TBW) for it anywhere, but I have seen figures from 72TB to around 150TB, which means you have around 58% - 80% life left depending on which numbers you believe. That is just an estimate though, like hard drives SSDs can fail at anytime so it's important to have your data backed up.