Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Gessler555

Member
  • Content Count

    29
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About Gessler555

  • Title
    Member

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 7
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR3-1866MHz (2x8)
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 1080Ti Gaming
  • Case
    CoolerMaster HAF 912
  • Storage
    Samsung 840EVO 120GB boot drive SSD, 4TB 7200rpm HDDs (Seagate Barracuda & WD Enterprise)
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x
  • Display(s)
    Asus VZ27AQ 1440p, 75hz
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H80i v1
  • Keyboard
    Razer Cynosa Chroma
  • Mouse
    DragonWar-RedGear ELE-G9
  • Sound
    V-MODA Crossfade LP2
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Gessler555

    Motherboard broken?

    "he would try it every now and again and it actually worked once and booted up normally . . . however he has never been able to replicate that." Hmm...that makes me think there may just be some sort of power delivery issue or something. A totally bricked Mobo isn't gonna come back to life like that. I'd think it can be fixed by someone who knows what they're doing. I've actually had similar issues with my MB in the past (MSI Z97 Gaming 7) where lights & fans will spin up for a second and then shut off. But after repeated tries (sometimes 5-6 attempts) it would boot up fine. In my case I assumed it was the PSU's fault (as the problem fixed itself once I got a new PSU). But your friend seem to have tried that already and things didn't work for him. I doubt it's gonna help (considering everything else he's tried), but I'm gonna tell you what I used to do which sometimes helped me boot up my system: > Power on once. Let it shut down after that split-second spin up. > Turn off the switch on the PSU and pull out the plug (on the PSU end, not the wall socket, though you could do either). > Press the power on again. Let it drain out any charge left in the MB. > Put the plug back in, flip the switch and press power. Used to work for me. It's obvious we're not having the exact same problem but can't hurt to try.
  2. Gessler555

    AIO life span

    "I plan to buy a Deepcoop captain 240ex. I'm afraid that the pump might leak and fry either my GPU or CPU." Assuming you get a good unit, you needn't worry about that. However you may always strike some bad luck and get yourself a defective model - in which case anything could fail (including possibility of coolant leak, either due to loose or cracked fittings). "is the life span of an AIO more than 4 or 5 years?" Again, depends on whether you get yourself a good or bad unit. A good unit will easily last you 5 years, most AIOs pumps (which is the component most likely to fail) are rated to last 10-15 years actually. Warranty on the complete unit differs from model to model as you would know. And chances are, you will get a good unit - because there are things like quality control & checks that ensure you do. Typically, defective models are few & far between (unless the product itself is particularly defective design). You'd have to be pretty unlucky to get one of those. I don't know about the 240ex in particular though. Personally I've been running with a Corsair H80i for the past 4 years, still going strong.
  3. Gessler555

    My new PC

    If this is a gaming-centered PC you're getting, I'd suggest turning the CPU down a notch (get i7-9700k) and turning the GPU up a notch (get 2080 Ti).
  4. Gessler555

    Infinite Warfare bad textures

    Hi, I'm playing through the IW campaign and couldn't help but feel that there was probably something wrong with many of the textures in the game, namely, those belonging to environmental objects. They appear pretty low-res compared to the rest of the stuff. I've looked it up and it appears a lot of people reported having texture problems with IW following one of the updates - however I'm not sure if my issue is actually bad textures or if that's how the game is supposed to look. Note I have a pretty beefy GPU with a lot of VRAM (1080Ti, 11GB), and I tried to play around with the settings quite a bit (cache sun & spot shadows on/off, shadow caster levels played with, etc.), it doesn't seem to make a difference to these textures. Take a look and let me know if this is how they're supposed to look or if I'm having a problem: ( playing on 2560x1440, rendering at native res ) However, other textures like character models remain top-notch: Can't seem to figure out if I'm having a problem or not, and if yes, how to fix it? Help me out here guys.
  5. Gessler555

    COD Advanced Warfare V-Sync problem

    Hey, I got a Asus VZ27AQ 1440p monitor with a 75hz refresh rate. Typically, in all games I've played if I set the Vsync option to ON, it should cap the framerate to the monitor's refresh rate. That's how it's worked in all other games I've played on this system. However there's a problem with AW. I set the refresh rate to 75hz (74.95 something) and turned Vsync ON, but now the framerate is capped at 60 fps, as though if my refresh rate was in the 59.95 setting (which it's not). How should I get it to lock fps at 75 instead of 60? I have a 1080Ti and with Vsync OFF I can get well over 120 fps at all times with all options set to maximum so I know that's not the problem. Any ideas?
  6. Gessler555

    Help me choose a pair of headphones!

    Is the 80ohm impedance ok for a MSI Z97 Gaming 7 motherboard? It has AudioBoost 2 and I'm wondering if its sufficient to drive the 80ohm version or if I should get 32ohm? Any specific Amplifier you recommend for a beginner?
  7. Gessler555

    Help me choose a pair of headphones!

    I have an year-old HyperX Cloud Stinger with 50mm drivers which has gotten pretty worn out along the ear pads, so I was thinking this is maybe a good time to buy a new pair, and also potentially better my audio experience while at it. I'm looking at a budget of around or less than $200 and this is what my requirements are like: > I want this for music, not gaming, so a microphone is not necessary. There's nothing wrong per se with my Cloud Stinger so when I feel the need for a mic gaming session I'll switch over to it anyway. I want this for a better music experience. > Not much of a critical listener, although if a particular model designed for original sound (like AudioTechnica or Beyerdynamic) is considered a great value at this price, I'll definitely consider it. > Not much of a bass freak either. A model with somewhat medium bass is just fine. > I'll be using it with a desktop so has to be wired. I actually had the Beyerdynamic DT 770 Pro (80 ohm version) in mind, what are your thoughts on it? Suggest me some models, people!
  8. I'm currently on a Coolermaster HAF 912 case, its spacious enough and does the job nicely however it just looks way too dated so I'm planning to migrate my system onto a new case, one with a nice tempered glass side panel. What I need from a new case (besides the nice tempered glass part), is that it needs to be ATX mid-tower, should have ample room and support for AIO watercooling (I'll be having a 240mm radiator), should get sufficient airflow all-round, ample room for cable management, and most importantly, should have atleast 4 hard drive bays (3.5"). I would love if it has space for a CD drive as well but modern cases don't usually pay much attention to that...I'll be okay using an external CD drive connected via USB so don't let that hinder you. Something around or under $200 would be fine I think. Any suggestions?
  9. **What I'm about to ask is something of a problem which I used to have (no longer do), and I managed to find out where the problem was, but what I want to know now is WHAT was actually causing the problem.** So I was running my rig (specs below) for about 3 years now, and for the last 6 months or so, I used to have this problem where the system would turn on when I push the Power button, the lights & fans would come alive and spin for like a split second before shutting down. I do this like 3-4 times and each time the same result, and then finally the system boots up on the 5th or 6th attempt and everything works fine once I'm there. I ran benchmarks, stress tests and everything was in top shape, nothing I could find which was glaringly wrong in anything that was detectable through software. Sometimes, when I used to turn off the PSU switch, unplug the power cord and plug it back in and turn on, it used to boot up no problem. But only like 60% of the time, not always. Additionally, the problem seemed to manifest more severely when I shut down the system and come back to turn it on in like a few hours. But when I turn it off and only come back to it after quite a while (like the next morning), USUALLY it used to boot up in the very first attempt. I clearly suspected this was a power supply issue (Antec VP650P v2) but I never really got around to digging further as I was pretty busy these last few months (and as the system wasn't just outright refusing to boot, I treated this rather as an annoyance than a genuine problem). However recently, I did quite the upgrade to my system with a new 1080Ti, and as I was aware of the potentially faulty power supply I had, I went ahead and bought a new Corsair RM850x to replace it with...wasn't gonna risk the 1080Ti. Sure enough, once I swapped the PSU, the problem was gone. Now whenever I press the Power button, the system just boots up flawlessly, like it did when I first put everything together back in 2015. But what I wanna know is, what actually went on there? What exactly was causing this problem with my old PSU? Surely I can't be the only guy that faced a similar issue? Anyone fittin' to share some knowledge/experience? I just wanna know what the problem was, in case it turns out to be something I can fix in future. Are PSUs known to do this when they go bad? Specs: i7-4790k (liquid cooled by Corsair H80i v1) MSI Z97 Gaming 7 MoBo Corsair Vengeance 16gb (2x8) DDR3, 1866 mhz MSI GTX 970 Gaming 4G*** (replaced with MSI GTX 1080Ti Gaming) Samsung 840 EVO 120gb SSD running Win10 Pro 64-bit 2 x 2TB 7200rpm HDDs (a Seagate Barracuda and a WD Enterprise Edition) Optical Drive 3 x case fans Antec VP650P v2 (replaced with Corsair RM850x) *** 3.5G duh Note that in both cases (with the new & old PSUs), I was getting power via a UPS. I even tried using different UPS models but it didn't effect the problem in any way.
  10. Gessler555

    4790K For 1440p Gaming?

    Just played BO3 with everything maxed out, agreed my monitor can't display anything above 1080p but I set the render resolution to 2496x1400 (closest to 1440 availble) in the options. Average fps was in high 80s/low 90s...But I did get just 1 time when it stuttered momentarily (all cores showed above 95% for a split second before returning to normal), that happened once in my ~10 min session. But save for that, I can't say I saw any of the cores touching even 70% (MSI Afterburner)...cores remained at 50-65% usage for like 99.99% of the time. GPU usage on the other hand was mostly in the mid 40s, barely touching 50% at times (single 1080Ti). I don't think we can say momentary stutter once in a blue moon (at least that's how it was for me) can pass off as weak CPU...especially when usage was so consistently within or around ~60% most of the time. On the other hand if I was getting above 80% usage straight from the start with it often going into 90s and stuttering very often, THEN yes I can say the CPU is weak. Oh and I didn't even OC my 4790k (liquid cooled by H80i v1). EDIT: I played on the Exodus map.
  11. Gessler555

    4790K For 1440p Gaming?

    But if I'm at 1440 with only a 60hz monitor, then no need for CPU upgrade?
  12. Gessler555

    4790K For 1440p Gaming?

    "Why..." Well as I said, I was planning on a resolution upgrade down the line anyway, being probably the most expensive item on my upgrade list I thought I'd get the GPU out of way first, then get to the others. At ultra settings my old 970 used to struggle maintaining 60fps in a lot of games, so there was a worthwhile upgrade to fps in the meantime either way. Free-sync with an Nvidia GPU? I didn't think that was possible...I don't care if the monitor I go for has neither Freesync nor G-sync, but I don't want to pay extra for a feature I won't be able to use because I don't have an AMD graphics card.
  13. Hey, so I just recently upgraded my graphics from a GTX 970 to a 1080Ti, I currently game at 1080p on a 60hz monitor and the 1080Ti is absolutely crushing everything I throw at it (within reasonable limits ofcourse, some graphical features in certain games eat up GPU usage like anything, while making little to no noticeable difference in visuals), which has me thinking, now might be a good time to upgrade to 1440p (which I was planning on anyway, that's why the 1080Ti). But I have some doubts regarding my existing CPU...the i7-4790k (I did not overclock it, it remains at 4GHz), I know its gotten old, but its an i7 and many seem to think the 4790k is still a very capable CPU, but I can't seem to know for sure if it won't bottleneck my 1080Ti in any way when going up to 1440p? Based on what I understand regarding how this works, higher resolutions mean more load for the GPU (which the 1080Ti should be more than capable of handling) whereas higher refresh rates make more work for the CPU..? I do want to get a 1440p monitor, but I can't say I really care for 144hz refresh rates, I'm happy at 60hz. So is the 4790k at stock speed good enough for 1440p gaming at 60hz with a 1080Ti? Or will I have take it upto the unlocked 4.4GHz? Or do I have to think about upgrading my CPU (which would mean pretty much upgrading everything else as well while I'm at it...MoBo, RAM etc.) before I plan to go for 1440p?
  14. Gessler555

    650w Power Cord for 850w PSU?

    Thanks for that, so does this mean I should be good with using the power cord that came with my Antec PSU?
  15. Hey, I live in India and I recently bought a Corsair RM850x fully modular PSU but when I opened it up I found what could be a bit of a mix-up, the power cord for the PSU provided in the box appeared to have the UK plug type (with flat 3-pin connectors in a plug marked to be 13A). But the plug connectors in my region are rounded, with the sockets for high-end appliances rated to be what I think is 15A (anyone from India here might clarify, I'm not much of an expert in this). What I want to ask is, I do have my older Antec VP650P (650w) PSU which has the correct power cord for my region, so can I just use this cord for the RM850x? And is the connector at the PSU end universal for all power supplies? I'm asking cuz just because something appears to fit might not always mean that its meant to be used that way. Also, the wattage difference between the PSUs...is a power cord which came with a 650w PSU only good enough for something of that wattage? The new PSU in my case can pull upto 200w more from the wall** than what my old one was rated for. ** in my case, an APC uninterrupted power supply. Or should I just ask Corsair/my seller for a new plug? I'm asking because I just got a brand new 1080Ti and I don't want to subject it (or my hard drives, Mobo and CPU for that matter) to any unwarranted experimentation on my part. And I don't want to use adapters for this very reason. The plug my RM850x came with:
×