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Gessler555

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  • Posts

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    India

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790k
  • Motherboard
    MSI Z97 Gaming 7
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR3-1866MHz (2x8)
  • GPU
    MSI GeForce GTX 1080Ti Gaming
  • Case
    CoolerMaster HAF 912
  • Storage
    Samsung 840 EVO 120GB boot drive SSD, Samsung 860 EVO 1TB SSD, Seagate Barracuda 7200rpm 2TB HDD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM850x
  • Display(s)
    Asus VZ27AQ 1440p, 75hz
  • Cooling
    Corsair Hydro H80i v1
  • Keyboard
    Razer Cynosa Chroma
  • Mouse
    Logitech G102
  • Sound
    V-MODA Crossfade LP2 headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
  • Phone
    Samsung Galaxy M31

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. I bought a iCUE LINK H150i RGB and it seems one of the little plastic bags that contain the screws got torn. The screws & washers (aka spacers) got out, and the iCUE LINK system has got magnets all over so they got stuck to various things. I recovered everything except a single washer that's still missing. The washers are for the smaller screws that mount the AIO to the case (in my instance, a 5000D). I don't want to put in the screw without the washer so I figured I'll just make do with 11 mounting screws instead of 12...one less screw in the middle shouldn't be an issue right? But the bigger question I have is that I suspect the 12th washer is still in there somewhere, stuck to something. I looked everywhere around the AIO, even took out the pre-installed fans. Just can't find it. I don't think it fell into the radiator fins (there's no magnets in there so it should've made some noise when I shook it ). Assuming it's stuck somewhere it shouldn't be, am I risking a short? Should I seek to return the AIO & get a replacement?
  2. What's the difference between these models: MZ-V8P500 MZ-V8P500B MZ-V8P500BW I'm looking to buy a 500GB Samsung 980 PRO Gen4 NVMe but I'm finding multiple listings of these SSDs on retailer sites with slightly varying model numbers & prices. I'm confused and don't want to accidentally buy the wrong one and miss out on certain features given the price differences aren't big and I wouldn't mind paying a bit extra depending on what the actual features are.
  3. I've got these 3 shortlisted but now can't seem to make up my mind: Corsair RM1000e MSI MPG A1000G Corsair HX1000i The first two are 80+ Gold and cost roughly the same, the HXi bumps me up to 80+ Platinum and has the ability to link with iCUE software so I can monitor it in the client...and costs more as a result. All three are ATX 3.0/PCIE 5.0 standard, and all appear to be A-tier on the Cultists' PSU list (the MSI one's position is speculative for the PCIE 5.0 version though). Which one should I go for?
  4. You could get the newer i5-13500, it costs less than the i9-10900, and beats it in gaming performance. Plus it can actually be sufficiently cooled by a 120mm AIO like the one you've selected (check for LGA1700 socket compatibility). Though I'd recommend an air cooler for the i5-13500. No point in going for a Z-series motherboard given you're not planning on overclocking (your original CPU choice isn't the unlocked K version, and neither is the one I suggested above). I'd advice you to get a newer B760 board like the MSI Pro B760-P WiFi (the DDR5 version). It gives you all the features you need, plus is cheaper. 32 gigs of DDR5 could possibly cost $30-40 more but given you'll be saving in the other departments it makes up for it. Given your GPU choice I'd assume you're aiming for 4K gaming. You'd save a good deal of money + get way more performance especially in ray tracing with the newer RTX 4080 (or better yet, wait a couple months to check out the upcoming SUPER refresh). You could go with a 12th gen i5 and a DDR4 setup, and save even more money and still get similar performance as the 10th gen i9. But if you ask me, going for a i5-13600K with a 240mm AIO + a Z790 board is the best bang-for-buck you can get right now (with potential for overclocking in future).
  5. I have limited space on my desk thanks to the position of a cable routing hole in the centre toward the far edge. The 32" Odyssey G7 I'm planning to buy requires quite a bit of depth on the desk if I don't want it to interfere with my keyboard and unfortunately I can't place it all the way back thanks to that hole. A desk shelf (which I've always wanted btw) could fix this problem but I can't find one on Amazon or IKEA that's deep enough to hold the G7's stand, which requires about 306mm or 12" front to back. The biggest I can find are about 10" which would leave the front legs of the stand out and make it unstable.
  6. I agree...I guess it's mostly because of the fact I've been using Corsair coolers & PSUs for years now and just never went wrong with them so there's a bit of brand loyalty overriding objectivity on my part I guess. That and I'd rather have all the RGB stuff managed via as few clients as possible. I typically aim to build the base system (CPU, Mobo, RAM) for at least a 5-6 year cycle so don't mind spending a bit more to get a slightly 'better' (for what it's worth these days) offering with slightly better components without stretching the budget too much.
  7. Planning for a new build around the RTX 4080 (or rather, the upcoming Ti/Super version of it), I'm gonna be gaming at 2560x1440 with the highest possible RT settings in each game, especially RPGs. Also some video editing on the side. Not ruling out overclocking down the line. Just let me know if you guys see any glaring error I made in my parts selections, or if you have any general advice to throw my way: Intel Core i7-14700K Asus ROG STRIX Z790-F Gaming WiFi II Corsair iCUE LINK H150i 360mm AIO Undecided on the RAM (any suggestions?) but I'm looking at 32GB (16x2) of either Corsair Dominator Platinum or Vengeance RGB in the 6200-7200 mt/s range. Don't care much for timings. Corsair HX1000i ATX 3.0 PSU Corsair 5000D Airflow case The iCUE LINK fans (QX series IIRC) aren't in stock atm where I live so I'll switch to them later on, will make do with some regular old iCUE fans for now. We can use both the iCUE LINK hub and the old iCUE Commander hub simultaneously right? Won't create any issue with the iCUE software client? Thread's open for ya'll, comment away.
  8. I'm torn between these 3 models...they're all 32" curved 1440p VA panels with FreeSync, and they all currently cost pretty much the same where I live (India). 1) Samsung Odyssey G5 LS32AG550EWXXL 2) MSI G32CQ4 E2 3) Gigabyte G32QC A I guess it's down to which one has the better panel? Anybody got any info on that?
  9. Does anyone have any credible rumours/leaks that point toward a possible 4080Ti/Super launch toward fall '23 or in '24? I'm planning to buy a 4080 but don't mind waiting a few months for the Ti. Was wondering cuz its pretty much established that Blackwell/50 series won't be coming till 2025 and there's a significant gap in performance between 4080 and 4090 that a new SKU could fit in.
  10. You're right - my mistake. I should've added that these are the ones I'm looking at in the event of there being no good curved panels in this category.
  11. Refresh rate above 100hz is preferable. Right now I'm looking at two models: LG Ultragear 32GP850-B MSI Optix MAG321QR Between these two, which do ya'll recommend? I'm also open to suggestions for other models.
  12. I'm planning to get a RTX 4080 with a Corsair HX1000i to power it. The PSU is ATX 3.0 and comes with Corsair's own 12VHPWR cable (which terminates in 2 x 8-pin PCIe connectors on the PSU end) so I won't be using the included adapter that comes with the GPU. The whole connector melting issue is still in the back of my mind, but given that it seemed only 4090s were being effected I thought I was gonna be safe, but recently I came across reports on Reddit about the same happening to the 4080 as well. This has me a bit worried...I have some questions I hope you guys can help with: 1) Anybody here had a connector melting/burning problem with their 4080? 2) Any reports or experiences with the Corsair 12VHPWR melting? 3) I'm planning on a Gigabyte 4080 Gaming OC. In case the card gets damaged/bricked, will Gigabyte (or any AIB for that matter) accept RMAs even if the damage occurred when not using the adapter that comes with the GPU?
  13. I'm trying to decide between buying a 4070Ti or a 4080...one of the main reasons for the upgrade is the remastered Witcher 3. But all the benchmarks I see have even the 4080 struggling to maintain 60fps with RT on (even with DLSS on Quality) at 1440p in areas like Novigrad. From what I gather, Frame Generation is fine as long as the GPU is delivering a good base framerate...otherwise I could get 80fps but its gonna feel like playing on 50fps. I don't know if I need to spend on the 4080 if that's the experience I'm gonna be looking at either way. Anyway, the question is this - all the benchmarks I see are from way back like 8 months ago, but I know that CDPR released some much needed patches to the game since then to help the performance...so I'm asking anyone who's got it, how's the game running now? Any betterment?
  14. I'm putting together a new system: Core i5-13600K MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk WiFi Corsair Vengeance 32GB (2x16) DDR5-6000 Corsair H100i Elite Capellix XT 240mm AIO Samsung 980 Pro Gen4 500GB NVMe 2 x SATA SSDs, 2TB each RTX 4070Ti 4 x RGB Case Fans I currently have a 5-year old (2018 model) Corsair RM850x PSU (80+ Gold) in my old build and am wondering if I can reuse it in the new system? My concerns are basically three: 1) Is 850W enough for the 4070Ti + 13600K? I know that Nvidia recommends only a 700W for this GPU but they often don't take into account things like efficiency, transient spike-induced stability problems & stuff like that. 2) As mentioned, my current PSU is from 2018 so obviously no ATX 3.0 or included 12VHPWR cable. Is it safe to use the 2 x 8-pin to single 16-pin adapter included in the GPU box? I gather that there are different manufacturers for these adapters and some may be better/worse than others?? I plan to buy either a MSI Gaming X Trio or Asus TUF Gaming OC versions of the 4070Ti. 3) If it's advisable to buy a Corsair-sourced adapter cable (which is much sleeker, I think you guys know which one I'm talking about), what model/year/rating should I watch for? Are those adapters compatible with older PSUs? I've been warned not to mix & match power cables even within the same manufacturer unless I'm absolutely sure what I'm doing. A new Corsair HX1000i 80+ Platinum ATX 3.0 unit (with a direct 16-pin connection to the GPU) is within my budget and I can pull the trigger if you guys think the older PSU & Adapter solutions are not worth the hassle/risk. I just want to know if I'd be overspending for no good reason.
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