GrannyDane

Then that’s what I’ll do. Thanks!

So high current is also fine? Or does it also regulate current coming in? I don’t remember how the battery life was back when I bought it, but I suspect it’s just that 840mAh battery isn’t that big in the first place.

I want to charge my DSi using my power bank because the battery life isn’t that great, but I’m also not going to carry around one of those gigantic power banks with AC outputs just for that. I found some 3rd-party USB to DSi cables, and I’m wondering if they’re safe to use. My primary concern is that DSi is designed to take in 4.6V at 900mA, whereas my power bank outputs 5V at 2.4A. I know that modern devices have a handshake process to ensure that the device receives right amount of power, but what about older devices such as DSi that weren’t designed to use anything other than a proprietary charger? Will it damage my DSi?

Another update: now disabling XMP doesn’t stop it either.

Some basic suggestions: Make sure the display cable is connected to the graphics card, not the one on your motherboard. On most cases, those ports should be aligned horizontally, whereas the motherboard ports are often aligned vertically. Try other ports on your graphics card, if there's any. Try using DP instead of HDMI and vice versa. Whatever connector you're using, make sure the monitor is displaying from that port. For example, if you're using HDMI, make sure your monitor input is set to HDMI (sometimes auto-detection can be a bit finicky). Also, if you haven't done so already, make sure you give the PC about a minute for it to post. First time booting can take longer than you might expect. If your graphics card is second-hand, there's a fair chance that few of the ports don't function properly (it happened to me). This is another reason to try a different connector.

Quick update: never mind about the Windows to Go thingy. I just tried it again and it crashed within 5 minutes. I guess I had a really lucky day that time.

Just in case anyone's looking into this afterwards, I ended up buying this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B083TC9C4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 There was no particular reason, it looked fine and had all the connectors I needed, and fortunately it's been working perfectly so far for the last 4 months. It does get a bit wobbly with a heavy cable though.

Starting from 2 days ago, my PC wouldn't stay up for more than an hour before spitting out a BSOD and restarting. Sometimes it will refuse to boot at all. I noticed that most of them were associated with ntoskrnl.exe, sometimes with other system files. A quick Googling suggested it could be a driver issue, but I couldn't be sure which driver could be causing the issue. I updated the chipset driver, the graphics driver, the ethernet port driver, and I updated the BIOS as well, none of which made any difference. The only thing that seemed to make a difference was disabling XMP, since I didn't see any BSOD with it disabled. Although this led me to believe either my RAM or motherboard is causing the issue, I remembered that I didn't have this issue on my Windows to Go (which I used for several hours after I started having this issue), even with XMP enabled. It did refuse to boot until I disabled secure boot though, which didn't happen before. I have 2 sticks of 8GB RAM running in dual-channel, and I tried running one of them at a time by itself to see if a particular stick is causing the issue. Unfortunately, I got BSODs within 10 minutes with either of the sticks. To recap: Most minidumps mention ntoskrnl.exe No luck with several drivers and BIOS update No BSOD with XMP off (Win11) No BSOD on Windows to Go (Win10) even with XMP BSOD with only either one of the sticks installed Does anyone have any idea how I should proceed with my troubleshooting? Feel free to request more information if you see necessary. Here's the link to the minidumps from today's BSODs: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Af__BH0tFK7Yccv5fCCBChGH9zsFyF-q?usp=sharing I wish I also had ones from before, but they're gone from the minidump folder for some reason. Here's my PC specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 GPU: GTX 1080 MB: Gigabyte B450M DS3H RAM: G.Skill Trident Z DDR4 3200MHz 8GB x 2 kit (F4-3200C16D-16GTZB) OS: Windows 11 Home, 10.0.22000 build 22000 OS Installed Storage: Samsung 980 Evo

I mean the one with one male end (USB-C in this case) and multiple female ends (USB-A, headphone jack, SD card reader, etc.) that allows you to plug in multiple devices at once. I thought those two terms are more or less synonymous?

So I’ve been looking into buying a type-c hub/dongle so that I can connect my devices when I get the new iPad Air 5, but then I kept seeing “Not compatible with M1 iPad Pro” on many of them. At first I wondered if it had to do with the TB4 port instead of USB 5Gbps they used to put in iPads (which got me worried since the new Air has a USB 10Gbps), but after inquiring Anker and Satechi, it seems like the problem is with the M1 chip itself. Does anyone know what’s behind all this? Also, anyone else trying to get a working dongle for your iPad?

I let OCCT run for a while and came back to take a look, and it had something like 3000 errors at 44 minute mark. Raised the voltage to +0.024 V, and: All seems alright to me. I mean, I could let it go for longer, but I'm pretty sure it won't give me a real problem anyway considering how many cases of 'OCCT spitting out errors but having no issue for half a year,' people on the web seem to have. The temperature doesn't seem any different either, so that's pretty much all I could wish for.

Yeah, I guess I'll leave it to run while I'm not using the computer. Right now I want to play some more MHW…

Also now the saving button is missing on OCCT for some reason… Maybe related to the pop-ups that tell me to make $1 donation at the start of the stress test?

So I tinkered with the voltage for about 2 hours, and settled on a mere +0.012V (I could probably try to lower it, but I'm pretty tired after sitting in front of computer doing nothing for 2 hours) with no errors: I also retried after setting the voltage to +0.000 V (instead of 'Auto' that it was set to) and it started to spit out errors after less than a minute. Bit hotter than it was before, but still cooler than the stock settings! The title still holds true!

The first few tests that says 10:00 were running on infinite time and I manually canceled it at 10 minute mark (that's why it says 10:00), and the rest of them that says 0:00 is because I figured that I can actually make it run for a set number of minutes so I took the screenshot once the countdown stopped. Those two images are from same test. You can see that the second image says "Timed" for "00:10:00" on the top left. Well, the minimum clock says 4,192 MHz on the first image under "Core 0 Clock" and so on. Isn't that enough?