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About metaleggman

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  1. May I ask your guys' use cases? I'm definitely from the era where stuff like Avast! and others were king of anti-virus (hell, back then you needed that and Comodo firewall to have real security, because Windows firewall was terrrrrrible), but it seems now like Windows's built-in stuff is about all that most people need. I believe I was using ESET most recently (about...four or five years ago?), but I had to stop since it completely disabled virtualization when they came out with a new edition, which, as someone who needs that from time to time, was completely unacceptable (I get why it's a possible issue, but I would imagine that's easiest to prevent by simply locking down the BIOS and disable it entirely, or simply use hardware incapable of it in the first place, if that was a major issue for you (especially in places like work environments where common sense is NOT so common...)). This is definitely a good deal for anyone using this service, so I would like to not derail by passing any judgements, I am simply, and honestly, curious
  2. Yup lol, I was silly and only used the Epic shortcut made during installation. Looks there's a good amount of games on there forgoing Epic DRM, which is good to know. Only game I've tried so far that had Epic DRM was Borderlands 2, but that makes sense since it's more of a multiplayer game and wants to phone home and stuff. Again, not a ton of games I've tried either tho lol.
  3. Yup. Even better (not sure why I didn't think to try this earlier), but if you just click RCT3.exe (or make a proper shortcut to it, not the one epic games would make, since that's one of those weird app launcher ones like steam would make), the epic launcher doesn't open itself silently in the background! So no need to sign in or have it running at all.
  4. It does need to be installed from the epic game launcher, but if you start the game with the epic launcher closed, it seems as though it just opens up silently in the background. Just tested it to see for ya. Apparently some games don't use Epic DRM (similar to how some games don't use steam DRM), so ymmv. That being said, it is free, so not a terrible compromise; apparently it's the only store to have it legally for sale, as far as I can tell. It did have a gog release a while back, which could perhaps mean it could be found online without drm, but I shudder at the thought of some unscrupulous scallywag doing such a thing!
  5. So I've been playing around with a lot of older titles ever since I built my rig earlier in the year (most recent one is FarCry, but I've been playing through the steam version of Half-Life 1 as well). I've played around with DSR in Half-Life mostly with success (besides menus lmao, rip), getting like 144+ fps even on like 4x 1440p. However, when playing a game not in the GeForce Experience App, like FarCry, I can set the DSR resolution just fine in game, but the signal sent to my monitor is downsampled to 4k instead of 1440p. The issue with this is that I'd obviously much rather have a 1440p signal so my monitor can utilize its 144hz refresh rate, instead of a 4k60 signal my monitor downsamples to 1440p60. I'm trying to identify if this is a driver issue or somehow an issue with my monitor. I'm running a 2060 connected through hdmi to an ASUS TUF Gaming VG27AQ. As I said, DSR works fine with games through the GeForce Experience app (the meager few that could even benefit from DSR on a 2060 lmao) output as 1440p at 144hz, as do games rendering natively at 1440p, it's just non-GeForce Experience app supported titles when attempting dsr. If anyone has any ideas as to why this is happening, or how to fix it, let me know. Thanks in advance! NB: for games where it's not working properly, I just try out SGSSAA or something like that using nvidia inspector, so it's not the end of the world haha. I just want to make sure I'm properly implementing DSR n such, since the documentation isn't amazing, and nvidia's forums are a mess lol.
  6. Given how long you've kept your last build, I wonder if it might be worth upgrading to a X570 board, for more futureproofing. The Asus Tuf x570 Gaming Plus (no Wi-Fi) is only about $25 more on Amazon (but you appear to be in Sweden, so not sure what the local price differences would be for you). I'm curious if anyone else thinks the additional features might be worth it; the primary difference is the number of PCIe 4.0 lanes (since B550 doesn't appear to have any coming from the chipset). With RTX IO and Direct Storage coming on the horizon, PCIe 4.0 storage might have such a niche use case in the coming years, especially since something like Flight Sim might be a platform for MS to show off direct storage in the future. Given that you seem to have a mix of SATA and nvme devices planned for your upcoming build, remember that your second nvme slot deactivates three of your SATA slots, limiting your expandability in the future, say, if you wanted to add more cold storage. And like others have said, might be worth waiting for zen 3 cpus to come out before pulling the trigger.
  7. Are you enabling mobile mode in your desktop browser? Apparently people trying to redeem it through desktop mode get the game key message. On chrome desktop in windows, press F12. On the side pane that pops up, look for the toggle device toolbar button (or press ctrl+shift+m, make sure the focus is on the dev panel on the side). Make sure you're already logged in using the us site. OP included the helpful tutorial, but I thought typing it out might be helpful, to at least get the mobile part out of the way. After that I think you just press the big blue button next to where it shows the 0 price and it should add to your account.
  8. Sweet. I remember you used to be able to do this with some of the Japanese XBOX Live Gold titles, but they seemed to have changed it, and also deleted anything one got from there haha.
  9. Shoot, didn't see notifications until now. Nope, I never did, so I'm guessing its just a chipset incompatibility. I'll keep this in mind if I end up trying to use it again. Already gave up and took it out of my rig haha. Oh well. Thanks you guys.
  10. I'm remembering how fun these games are during the main storylines, but how much the post game (especially gear set grinding and raids) blooooows
  11. I don't think steam has ever attempted to say any game has a "very positive review." It specifically uses the plural form of review, as in the reviews are positive, mixed, negative, overwhelmingly positive, etc.; it's describing the aggregate of all reviews, not the average or median review score. People are taught to think about averages, medians, hell, statistics in general, but people's numeracy in general life doesn't generally hold up. From everything I've read, five star review systems are great for companies like Uber or Lyft, because customer/driver engagement is better with those systems, but once you realize a driver needs to maintain a 4.5/5 to not risk being taken off the platform, you begin to see how odd these rating systems can be. All that being said, there's a reason Youtube ditched the five star review system over a decade ago, and why Netflix followed suit a few years back: people who review things generally either do it when the experience was very good, or very bad. There is little motivation to give a review for a middling experience, or for a product that simply works. With games being more akin to an art form than a mere consumer product, even bad art can sometimes be worthwhile to experience, so it makes scales like these even more muddied. Most importantly though, most consumers simply aren't rigorous enough in terms of their reviewing practices, since it's not a job like it is for, iono, Adam Sessler or Roger Ebert. I don't mind a 5 star rating for people who have their own consistent rating structure and philosophy (Adam Sessler has talked about this in the past extensively, both while at G4 and during his tenure at Rev3), but for the general fan of a type of media, it really makes more sense to just have a binary option. It's either something you had a good experience with, or a bad experience, and a type of "null" represents people who either didn't care enough to rate it, or simply don't review games. Those middle ground reviews for which you wish generally become statistically less important than the 1s or the 5s, in terms of the overall average score, which begs the question, if we're aggregating something, do they really matter? Not the individual review or reviewer, mind you, but that value they attribute to the game. I enjoy Steam's system because it makes it fairly clear what I should expect: if it's positive, I'll give a shot, even if it's not quite a genre for which I'm fond; If it's mixed, I might check it out if it is a genre for which I'm fond; If it's negative, I'll probably pass, unless I want something dumb to play around with and show off to friends. For any case in which I want to seek further clarification, rather than depend on arbitrary numbers, I check out reviews that are positive and negative where the play time is significant. When I go on Amazon, I essentially do the same thing, despite their use of 1-5 stars, specifically I go and check what the top 1 or 2 star reviews are, to see if they have merit worth considering, prior to checking out 5 star reviews. 3, 4, or 5 star review scales have merit on a reviewer level, but once they scale up, they tend to lose a lot of meaning in terms of rating distributions. A great personal example for me would be games by Suda51, an auteur Japanese games creator. I truly love all of his games, but some of them suffer from poor gameplay mechanics or design decisions, so they might not rate incredibly high: a relative few might would get a 2, most 3 or 4, and perhaps one or two a 5. On a 5 star or a 5 point scale, people would see these as middling games, but they really aren't: they're almost all experiences I would ecstatically recommend to people who love games, especially games with an auteur touch. The film 2001: A Space Odyssey by Stanley Kubrick is another fantastic example. I would give it a 6/5 if I could, but I'm not sure I would recommend it to all viewers. I wouldn't rate it negative, say, if it was on steam for some reason, but I don't know if I would rate it positive either. I suppose some of your arguments give merit to a ternary system, as would my thoughts on 2001, but that's about the extent I'd probably go for a store front or streaming service. Funny enough though, when I use these threads, I don't really care what the steam reviews are lol, since I'm a digital hoarder.
  12. Alright cool, that definitely puts me in the right direction. Thanks for the help, but if anyone else sees this and can offer further advice, please do. I'm still having an issue really figuring out any of this, which is somewhat surprising to me. The MegaRAID Storage Manager just seems to be trying to find a remote server, but I can't find the actual server software on the Broadcom website. Aiya, if anyone knows a good guide on setting up megaraid hardware/softare for windows, don't hesitate to drop a link...
  13. Well that sure as heck helps narrow it down, but why isn't the card being properly recognized at all? I can't seem to setup any sort of raid or anything. Would I need to boot into the card to set this up (?), as I've heard people discuss in the past? Two of the drives are the same size, so I wouldn't care if I had to set them up in RAID 0. Or does this card really have a completely different purpose that I'm simply unaware of?
  14. Since you didn't mention budget, I'm currently using a Herman Miller Mirra 2 with all the bells and whistles (sans leather or color options). I really like its intuitive controls and mesh seating and backing. It's a bit pricey, a little over a grand in the US, from what I remember, but they come with a 12 year warranty, and because Mirras and Aerons are popular for businesses, parts are plentiful if you want to fix it yourself. This also means there's a lot of used or refurbished ones out there, and frankly, they're worth looking into, especially if you can get some sort of warranty with it. Honestly, best part of HM chairs is that they simply roll out of the box, as you may have seen with Colton's review of the Logitech Herman Miller chair released recently. But like others have said, go out and try a bunch of chairs. You might hate all of Herman Miller's chairs, and might prefer something else. There's a couple of notable brands in terms of office chairs, but, heck, go to ikea or office depot or something, try what you can and see if you like them. The most important thing, imo, is good lumbar support, which most gaming chairs lack, or they just use a pillow. Even inexpensive office chairs generally will have better lumbar support than a gaming chair. That's okay, but a lot of gaming chairs aren't that much less expensive than a nicer chair (if your gaming chair is half the price of a HM or Steelcase chair, but has a fourth of the warranty, one could argue you might end up having to buy three of those chairs, meaning the cheaper chairs end up being more expensive). That being said, I could be suckered into buying that Secret Lab D.Va chair
  15. A while ago I haphazardly bought a LSI Logic SAS9260-8I, since I planned on using it in something that didn't pan out. It came as a bare card, so no driver CD or guide. I installed it into my second x16 slot and connected a sas to 4 sata cable to the first sas port. It's connected to four old SATA drives I wanted to play around with, since they're not doing anything and they're healthy. Once I booted into windows though, all I get is 4 unknown devices in the device manager. I found the newest drivers on the broadcom website, but Windows won't recognize them when I attempt to update the driver. Anyone ever run into an issue like this? I can't find much online, and I'm stumped. I'm on Windows 10 Pro Insider Preview 2004, os build 20190.1000. Is it possible this build of windows isn't a fan of the card? Seems like people on this forum were able to get similar cards running on 2004. Worst case I have two sata slots vacant, so I could just use those for now, but I really am stumped and want to get this thing working, even if I end up taking it out. I'm new to this kind of hardware, so if there's something you'd think is obvious, don't hesitate to mention it. Thanks in advance. Rig: Asus Tuf x570 Gaming-Plus Ryzen 3600 evga 2060 xc black Asus Wifi 6 pcie card (included the last two, just in case it could be a cause of the issues)