quasides

@spoticCK you asking aguy who payed 150k for a camera to make a video about higher pricing on a production system? besides alone the capturecards are woirth 1500$. so the hardware alone will make at least half of that price, the rest is the custom part wheres is engeneered down to a packable packaged, watercooled that can be transported and wont need userinteraction and is absolutly silent under load as it need to be. is it realtivly high price? yes, but its a custom design with many non shelf parts, for a super limited customer group. coudl that be achieved with a regular tower, well yes but as its intended for live productions you safe a lot of (payed) working time of your crew. if you save up an hour for every setup you do, twice a week, youll have 100 working hours per year saved. thats an easy 4k savings in the first year just to not have your crew using a regular pc but a transportable system

thinking of this, you also need to custom make your tubes, i toubt that regular softtubes are to happy with -20

after requathing your chiller videos i want to see the REAL CHILLED PC. OK here si the thing, our main problem is water in the air and its condensation. Now we could make a real build that is superchilled by default (and not a wonky testbench). i woudl suggest to replace the air in the PC for that matter. either use mineral oil (not to cool but to keep the parts safe from condensation) or an airtight tower where you replace the air with gas that wont freeze at subzero. ofc we cant use pure water, i woudl suggest a chemical coolent liquid that can go at least 20degree celsius. goes is to have a real build that operates on minus 20-minus 30 on a minimum, maybe with the option for liquid nitrogen to supercool that sucker down to superconductor limits. to fit all that maybe use an old silicon graphics chassis? like the onyx 2 ? https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiyucnq7cvjAhVMzaQKHTAaBkYQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FSGI_Onyx&psig=AOvVaw0ykkj9O2u9gc0AtTURQY5O&ust=1563999370364820 hey you got now a real cnc , you can make this happen. im shrue theres a candaian chemical comapny willing to supply you

uhm excuse me? a DAC (digital analog converter) translate bits into analog audio - all soundcards are DACs all soundcards are also AMPs jsut not very good ones for the most part as the dac would deliver only a few milivolts, it needs to be amplfied to be heard always no any modern pc has something in that is a softwareemulation that pretends to be a dac and supports all the codecs with bad filters and low end amps

staaap just staap lol soundcard or heaphone amp? thats 2 different things sometimes somewhat combined. look you have the toys - usually 2.5mm jacked headphones with low impendance low power. any soundcard can utilize these as they have a little amp built in. however good soundcards also need good analog parts (big beefy filters and caps), problem is youll spend easy 200 on the regular cards lieka sus or soundblaster and still wont get the real good stuff also you dont wanna go from cheapo soundcard to amp, to high end headphone, not really and its a waste. you can get something like focusright with a built in preamp for mics and heaphones or you go focusright to amp via XLR look the consumer stuff got so expensive in recent years that were already in entry pro stuff territory. so it really worth to take a look into your local hifi shop and test some headphones to your liking if you alwaso wanna record i could see something like AKG heaphones focusright scarlet some xlr microphone (scarlet has a mic preamp too) and if you hate your neighboors some yamaha or KRK or similar entry level monitors forget pc speakers and stuff. that is all low power low imp crapware overpriced for what it is (specially in that 150+ range) if money is an issue you can buy older pro stuff on ebay. that stuff usually last very very long your starting point is yamha, focusright, roland ... your cables are xlr and 5 1/4 you want it external you forget that your mainbaord has something that produces noise :))

even its a bit older but its the top hit so here more details. do you need it for that headset you just bought , well i dont know them so cant tell for shure but most likely not. however understand this all sound from pc needs a DAC (digital to analog converter) and htis dac needs good analog parts like filters and caps (on mainbaords youll find crap) also a standard onboard soundcard is basically a software emulation with little bit of chip, and designed for low impedance very low power output. its just enough for cheapo headsets and cheapo active speakers on a basic level. now is a dedicaded soundcard an upgrade - well always yes if you can utilize it (with good audio equipment) however regular in the pc world known soundcards like soundblaster or xonars are simply put overpriced (still better then onboard sound) - simpyl speaking from an audio output not even going into more features list. however the audiopart goes much deeper and frankly, if you consider a 200+ soundcard then dont. were now in such an overpriced aerea that you can get entry level stuff from pro aduio stuff that would really make a difference. soundcards from focusright/roland/camaha whatnot, if you wanna stream a real xlr microphone, xlr monitors and studio headphones are already in the relative compareable pricerange. the soundboard you can even buy an older one on ebay, most of them are top notch quality. if it runs after unboying it should hold many more years (until you kill it yourself by poor choices that is. what you want and need depends on your use case. anything more then output - yes you need a good soundboard anyhting better then low impendance headphones - yes defently anyhting higher end at the other end or you have simply to much statics also as a rule of thumb, you want XRL not RCA connectors to your speakers or other target equipment you want beefy big caps and filters on your soundcard with high impendance and high power output and ofc a very good DAC you want distance from noise sources so usb/thunderboltor firewire cards. forget shielded pice cards, just dont... you want a real name with expierience behind it, naaa not soundblaster but something like camaha, roland,or or or... many good names out there. so soundblasters and friends are usually someone in the middle, between the absolute minimum (onboard) and pro stuff but sadly overpriced compared to performance and features (only RCA and 3.5mm outpout somethimes at least 5 1/4. soundcards are not dead, its just most people dont care really about audio output. as long something comes out its enough, but in reality there worlds in between only issue is consumer grade stuff got way to expensive. something like asus sound essence stx is good, but for 200$ easy outperformed and outfeatured by focusright on almost the smae price here a short checklist / differences in audioequipment -higher impendance better -bigger connectors always better -high bitrate only important for recording as headroom for your dynamic range, its basically loudness, everything above 16bit kills you anyway but is useful in mixing and recording before buying something over 150$ consumer grade stuff take a look in a pro hifi shop -most features like 7.1 are borderline to useless and often just buzzwords. if your source material dont support it its useless. better go for good stereo or 2.1 -if you see "pc speakers" run away -gaming headsets are medicore and overpriced to performance ratio -same goes for all consumer headphones (beats and bose are the worst) -3.5mm connected headphones are toys, same goes for speakers. iif you wanna hear some podcasts and sometimes a tv show over cheapo pc speakers use onbaord sound. if you wanna real good audio listening, even gaming and stuff go for dedi sound cards but then consider to go all the way to pro equipment

Ok here is a post not about expierience but facts. First of this is not how to diagnose such issues. Best method would be rooting the phone and use better battery stats to detect wakelocks. However rooting trips either knox or you msut use a rooting method limiting the battery to 80% which in both cases might not be desireable. Now before we go do deep into the diagnosing rabbithole you must understand waht can cause this and maybe solve it without even dignose it. The most common issue are apps. either because they missbehave by intent or because of an upgrade. you see after every android upgrade datastructures within android can change which in turn can lead to reall issues within apps but youll never notice it ever. as a first test you could turn off background sync and maybe even data connections. at this point also wifi and see how it does behave. also turn off location services and see if theres some change. if you can identify a group of apps (like all account syncing apps) then you need to manually delete data and cache of those apps and reinstall them. autobackup should recover your data or it is cloud stored anyway (hopefully) this would recreate datastructures and should solve an issue there. however another aproach would be a complete nuke and format (format all partitions and reinstall system from scratch with lates official via odin. reststoring backups should be done via cloudbackups NOT via pc backups if even nessesary. andoird built in backup since android 7.1 works decent with most apps if this doesnt help and youre shure you have no malicious app on board it can still be an hardware issue. turn off all additional settings that are in use when the phone should sleep like screenon when pickup, movement detenction, facedetection stuff like that. stick to fingerprint or pattern see if something changes most likely its not the way someone uses their phone differently, but simply upgrades. so regular format (not wipe) of data partitions works wonders btw same counts for iphones, even apple no recommends to restore backups via icloud and not itunes because of data structure issues