NAVras

Is there a 75% (or 65%) wireless keyboard with Bluetooth that automatically turns off the backlight but not the Bluetooth connection (or at least waits much longer before disconnecting)? I had a Keychron K3 v2 which goes to sleep after 10 min, and upon wake, it takes a few seconds to reconnect and fully turn on backlight. It's a bit of a hassle for intermittent reading and typing. The only option was to disable sleep completely. It's also what I don't quite get: Does Bluetooth cost a lot of battery compared to backlighting? I think it's appropriate to turn off the light after 10min, but why the Bluetooth... Same problem with my Bluetooth mouse, 900h advertised battery life, yet sleep can't seem to be disabled.

Note to self: Don't choose UK as region in post-installation screen in Windows 11, I ended up with a UK keyboard that can't be removed... @mariushm Thanks, it's what I did back in Windows 10, however the problem with those software is that there are many places for default values that needed to be changed for each of them (I remember I changed the units to cm in Word but PPT still has inches, or was it LibreOffice Idk...). It would be easier if they got it right in the first place...

At the beginning of Windows 11 installation, there are 3 options: Language to install, Time and currency, Keyboard or input method. What to choose so that the system uses metric units and format but US English and keyboard? Does choosing Canada have any side-effect? The problem: In Windows 10, I chose US for language, and changed the units to metric and region to UK later (iirc I did this first before installing software?), however the installed software all uses US units and format, e.g. Office/LibreOffice and GIMP use inches or US letter paper format upon install. If I change Language to en-GB, Windows adds a UK keyboard plus language pack but my keyboard is US. (Also there is a registry for installation language that can't be changed in Settings in W10)

Changing to 48kHz 24bit seems to have fixed it. (even tho Asus website says support up to 192kHz 32bit) Games' music sounds normal, haven't tried YouTube, hopefully no problem as well. Edit: Nope, came back again. Happens randomly, played games for hours no problem, doing nothing got me those crackling again... Edit2: Boot after shutdown will have crackling, restart fixes it / doesn't have crackling.

@homeap5 Recently I played Hollow Knight and found the main menu music is especially scratchy. Playing the same song in OST with WASAPI exclusive/bit-perfect mode turned out to be scratchy as well, again a restart fixed the issue. The OST is 44.1kHz/16bit so I guess it's not Windows after all. Also I played the song on YouTube with my old PC connected to TV connected to a pair of speakers, with the shared mode set to 48kHz/24bit (YT is probably 44.1/16), the sound is kinda ok, at least no crackling. Nvm... I guess I shouldn't use the motherboard for HD-650, thought I could get away with it until later, but it seems to have bigger problem than I expected.

Right, the audio enhancements are not enabled, and all sound effects are disabled.

I've been noticing this problem ever since I got a headphone. When Windows stays on too long, the audio in games and YouTube etc. starts to have light but audible artifacts like noise/popping/crackling, it's not random, the audio artifacts will still be there if I play the same audio again. They happen on very low/high frequency, and in normal speech as well. To me it seems they get worse over time, with more and louder noise throughout an audio. This issue is gone once I restart Windows, until it gradually comes back half an hour later. My guess is that the issue comes from Windows audio mixer that shared mode audio goes through. MPC-BE that's set to use WASAPI exclusive mode doesn't have this issue. At first I set my shared mode format to 192kHz 32bit (when I was misinformed), which gave me lots of popping everywhere (even the Windows notification sound) despite that my CPU is not weak and up-sampling supposedly doesn't produce severe artifact. Later I changed it to 48kHZ 32bit, some of the crackling I used to encounter is gone, but the issue is still there. My setup: HD-650 plugged directly into Asus Z370-E, Asus Nahimic audio driver 6.0.8899.1 from github.com/alanfox2000/realtek-hda-release before it was taken down because the latest driver from Asus is HDA instead of UAD and it also has crackling. The Realtek audio console was installed by Windows automatically so I think I chose the right one...? Is there a way to find & solve the issue? (Not a lot of people have posted such problem online so I guess it's not a Windows bug?)

Not the language or region settings, but some kind of system language that is determined by the Win10 image. For example Nullsoft installation system and OpenRA use or detect this, instead of the language option in Win10 settings. IIRC the Microsoft tool for creating Win10 image has a language setting, and the Win10 installation using the image created will have the corresponding "hidden" system language. Anyway most software don't use this, but it would be nice to know if there is a way to change it post-install...

Damn this mobo, first over-tight slots (not just RAM), then buggy UEFI (Asus multicore enhancement freezes PC in early version, default on), then half-hearted driver support (bundle, switch to incompatible legacy version, light audio crackling when resampled)... Now Ethernet port makes a squealing sound similar to a dial-up tone when I copy file from LAN at max speed. Hope I have better luck with next one...

I have a Fractal Design Meshify C case, one of the screw hole for the power supply bracket is off by a few mm, which lifts one side of the power supply slightly if screwed on. It caused the PSU to vibrate against the bottom panel whenever the fan was on, after the paint wore off it started to produce a vibrating sound. Unscrewing the faulty side letting the PSU fall to natural position solved it. The thin rubber pads on the bottom panel didn't help for some reason, and that wasn't even the place that touched and wore off iirc. Also a second source of noise, the plastic piece inside PSU underneath the fan (Corsair RM750x, but lots of PSU have this plastic piece). Eliminated the buzzing sound by flipping the PSU as suggested by another post, fan facing upwards. I confirmed it's the plastic by taking out the PSU, slap it, makes the same springy noise, touch the plastic with a screw driver, slap again, no noise.

I had to run this PowerShell script https://www.tenforums.com/drivers-hardware/22049-how-completely-remove-bluetooth-device-win-10-a-3.html#post1630800 which calls a native Windows API to remove the device. So it seems yes my old controller bugged out the Win10 system it was connected to when it failed. What I don't understand (or failed to find any clue on) is why Windows insists on thinking this device is present and chose not to remove the device but reinstall it every damn time instead. Windows logs in event viewer just say "Device became unresponsive or out of range" immediately after it finishes installing. And I get a ghost "HID-compliant game controller" & a "Xbox wireless controller" in device manager. Even if I sort by container and uninstall everything under the false "Xbox wireless controller" they just keep coming back. The only suspicious entry in event viewer is "Device was not migrated" right when Windows decides to reinstall the ghost device. But Googling it just shows a bunch of general tech support garbage. Device HID\{00001124-0000-1000-8000-00805f9b34fb}&VID_045e&PID_02e0&IG_00\8&12d8d2ce&2&0000 was not migrated due to partial or ambiguous match. Last Device Instance Id: USB\VID_0D8C&PID_0005&MI_02\6&f341734&0&0002 Class Guid: {745a17a0-74d3-11d0-b6fe-00a0c90f57da} Location Path: Migration Rank: 0xF000FFFFFFFFF120 Present: false Status: 0xC0000719 Which is a common error for creating ghost devices after device/port/driver change or just Windows update, except those can be removed manually and don't come back. None of the active devices match the instance Id. However I recall when the controller was failing, I plugged it to an USB port to confirm that only the wireless function was broken not the controller itself. Is there a log anywhere that tells the cause/reason for Windows device installation?

update: I haven't experienced this issue for a long time now. But today when installing new parts my pc wouldn't boot with dram_led lighting up. So I took one of the RAM stick out, stared at it for a while, and found a short hair stuck between its heatsink and connector. Not sure if it's the cause for all those problems, why memtest86 didn't pick it up, or why I didn't find it when installing the RAM. Anyway at least my PC boots up normally now.

Did you solve this? I have the exact same issue after having used the RTX 2080 for a year (I checked it's not dust build up). I think the problem is overheating. I saw it slowly climb to 82°C when under almost 100% load, then start to thermal throttle and the fans start to jet for around 5s which I assume is emergency cooling because it's much louder than spinning at actual 100% speed. Update: Sent card for repair, came back fine for half a month, then the problem is back again. Also, after repair, the card starts to have the infamous ticking sound issue when fans are at low RPM! Tough luck I guess... Update2: The clicking sound is caused by a fan cable that was not properly put into place and brushing against the fan. There are slots under the fan for cables to lay flat in, but the cable in question was just half-jammed into it. p.s. OP's GPU core speed shows 1890/1935 mHz, is it manually overclocked? It seem to be higher than the specs listed on the website for any version of 2080. Though in my case I haven't done any manual overclock.

The Device Manager shows the same, but I only have one Xbox Wireless Controller. One of these is set up by Windows 10 and is never used, it's always "paired" not "connected" even when I connect my controller. The two has different "unique identifier". If I remove the unused one, Windows automatically re-installs it upon next restart. The reinstalled controller has the same unique identifier as before, and the log shows all the delete&install entries for it. So it's the same one that keeps coming back. Additional story: This is not my first controller, my first Xbox wireless controller had Bluetooth connectivity issue and was busted in a month, also partially because I dropped it on the ground with two heavy batteries inside. So the customer service sent me a replacement. I'm pretty sure I removed the old one from Device when I connected the new one, but as soon as it connects, windows set up 2 "Xbox Wireless Controller" instead of 1. And one of which is unremovable as I mentioned earlier. I have another PC which I also tried pairing the new controller with, and it shows only one device instead of 2. Tho the other PC does not have native Bluetooth 4.2 but a Bluetooth dongle. Why does this happen? Is my old controller haunting me? /jk It's a long lasting problem so there are small changes to system info Operating system: Windows 10 1903/1809 x64 BIOS version: Asus UEFI v.2201/1802 ; some unknown OEM bios on another PC Mobo: Asus Z370-E (with Bluetooth 4.2) ; some unknown OEM mobo on another PC

Ok I will downgrade the BIOS manually if it hits me again in game. Configuring everything from scratch after each flash was always a bit bothersome...