Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Kywim

Member
  • Content Count

    84
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kywim

  1. Okay nice! While I'm at it, I have another question (so I don't have to make a new thread). Is it normal for this fan to kind of "hum" when spinning at relatively high RPM? It's like a wavering hum, if you see what I mean? I think it's caused by resonance (either from the dust filter or the flimsy fan mount). Can I do anything about this?
  2. Hello! Currently my 2 front fans are PWM fans, but they're plugged in my DC ports on my Fractal Design fan hub. I had to do this because the fan (Noctua AF14) cables were too short and I couldn't reach the PWM ports. So, the fans speed is still controlled, but through DC on my fan hub. Can anything go wrong with that? Thank you
  3. Hi again, another related question: can I use 2 extension cables + the Y splitter? (Mobo -> Extension cable -> Extension cable -> Y splitter -> Fan A and B) Would that still be fine?
  4. The cable says "4 pin PWM extension cable - NA-EC1". It seems to be this one: https://noctua.at/en/na-sec1
  5. Hello! So I've bought 2 Noctua AF-14 Chromax fans. I'd like to use them in my build but unfortunately I need to use a splitter to plug them in properly in the PWM header (CHA3) on my mobo. Also, theses fans are kind of special, they don't have a direct cable coming from the fan to the PWM header. The cable coming out the fan is really small, and they give an extender inside the box. It looks like this: http://prntscr.com/m7kb91 My initial plan (when I ordered the splitter) was like this: http://prntscr.com/m7kcw9 The Y splitter is plugged in the motherboard, and the 2 fans are plugged in the 2 outlet of the splitter. But... I received the splitter today, and it's way too stiff. It can't really be bend easily, so it wouldn't be pretty (or practical) to plug it in my motherboard. So I've got another idea. My idea to make it look a lot better is to remove both extension cables from the fans and do this: http://prntscr.com/m7kcgz One of the extension cables is plugged in the motherboard, then the Y splitter is plugged in the extension cable and the small fan cord are directly plugged in the splitter. My question is: Is this safe? Can something go wrong with that setup? Is it safe to plug a PWM Y Splitter into an extension cord instead of directly on the motherboard? Thanks
  6. Hello! In the last week I've experienced some issues with my audio on Windows 10. It has happened twice for now. (with a week in between). The first time, It happened when I tried to call a friend on Discord. After starting the call, while it was loading, it did 2 things: I powered my bluetooth headphones off to use my gamer headphone I plugged my microphone in After that, I noticed that Discord froze. I had to force it to quit, and then things got weird: I couldn't hear audio anymore on my computer, be it on my QC35 or my other headphones. Youtube videos load indefinitely, Windows can't play songs (either infinite loading or some weird "filesystem" error), etc. The volume icon in the bottom also had a red X over it. After running the windows sound troubleshooter, the red X disappeared, but the volume did not come back. And the last time it happened when I powered on my QC35 to watch a show. I didn't hear sound through it and ta-da! It was because the same problem came back! This time I went more in depth with my troubleshooting and noticed a few things The windows audio troubleshooter pretends to have fixed the problem, but it actually hasn't fixed it. I can't play the test tone in the audio settings ("Failed to play the test tone") The problem seems to come from the Windows Audio service. I tried to restart it, but it hung up and refused to stop. (Stuck on "stopping") I had no other choice but to reboot, and that fixed the problem. Event viewer logs: The Service Control Manager tried to take a corrective action (Restart the service) after the unexpected termination of the Windows Audio service, but this action failed with the following error: An instance of the service is already running. ------------------------------------------------- The Windows Audio service terminated unexpectedly. It has done this 2 time(s). The following corrective action will be taken in 120000 milliseconds: Restart the service. ------------------------------------------------- The program svchost.exe version 10.0.17134.1 stopped interacting with Windows and was closed. To see if more information about the problem is available, check the problem history in the Security and Maintenance control panel. Process ID: bd0 Start Time: 01d48be754e98fc9 Termination Time: 1 Application Path: C:\Windows\System32\svchost.exe Report Id: f8114eef-ae6a-42d0-bf11-116a66797577 Faulting package full name: Faulting package-relative application ID: Other useful information: The headset I use to watch video/listen to music is the Bose QC35 II. It's a bluetooth headset which is connected to my computer using a bluetooth dongle. My other headset is a VModa M100. That's the one I use for gaming, it's plugged using a normal audio jack cable. I have a Yeti USB microphone. The first time the problem happened, I plugged it in when starting the Discord call, so maybe it's not unrelated to the crash? The second time, I had left Discord 10 minutes ago so it was still plugged in. Security and maintenance control panel screenshot: http://prntscr.com/lqr35w It also shows that I had some updates installed 2 days before, and somes the same day that the problem appeared for the first time. (But the updates that were installed the same day were just updates for some windows builtin apps) http://prntscr.com/lqra0h http://prntscr.com/lqra9v I'd like to at least know if it's a hardware or software problem. I bet it's a software one because this started about a week ago, and this build has been running fine since late october. (So it ran fine for +- 2/3 weeks before that), but it's like to confirm my doubts. Thank you!
  7. Hello again, another question: is it normal that my mobo isn’t perfectly flat? Like, I’ll probably need to hold it against the case to fully tighten the screw since it isn’t resting perfectly flat against the case. Can I damage something by holding it against the case and screwing it in that position? Thanks
  8. Okay, Do you think I should look into fixing it (maybe try to hold the mobo against the case while screwing it in) or just leave it like that?
  9. Hello One of my motherboard's screw (the bottom/right one) is slightly crooked: it doesn't fully go in, and I don't want to force it down too much if it doesn't want to go in further. Because of this, the motherboard has a bit of flex in that area (I can slightly push it further against the case if I push in that corner, but every other corner is perfectly flat). The "flex" is really small, I'd say one or two millimeters. Should I worry about this and try to fix this or I can just leave it like that? The build has been running for 2 weeks. Thanks
  10. Oh okay, maybe thoses games are unaffected by the bug.. but at least I'm not alone in that situation. What do you think this is? Driver bug? Windows bug?
  11. And you have a 165Hz 1440p G-Sync display too, right? Do you play games such as fortnite? Have you ever noticed white lines/rectangles at the top of the screen when you're in a loading?
  12. Hello! Relevant system specs CPU: Ryzen 7 2700X GPU: GTX 1080Ti (EVGA FTW3) MONITOR: Acer XB271HU (1440p/165Hz G-Sync) The problem: Ever since I upgraded my GPU and Monitor to a 1080ti & 1440p/165hz monitor, I got a small but annoying problem that appears in 2 circumstances. Consistently, when Windows boots up, I get a slightly longer loading with some white artifacts at the bottom of the screen. See for yourself (at around 0:14) Sometimes, when loading in/out of a match (noticed that only on Fortnite & Dead by Daylight for now), I get the same kind of white rectangles but at the top of the screen. This is not consistent, sometimes I'll load fine 3 times in a row, but the next match I might get 0.5s of flashing lines at the top of the screen during loading. Often it's only for a few frames and goes away before I can take a picture. But, strangely, my GPU is 100% fine in games and benchmarks. I never see a single artifact. It's only during loadings and during window's boot. And, the plot thickens. This issue is still present after: A Motherboard + CPU + RAM upgrade A Complete windows reinstall DDU'ing the drivers Upgrading from 399.24 to latest NVidia drivers A PSU change (due to RMA) A Monitor change (due to RMA) Strange, right? Today I tried to find out the source, and noticed a few things: Doesn't happen in safe mode Still happens with G-Sync disabled Happens on both DP ports of my GPU Doesn't happen when using a HDMI cable Furthermore Windows seem to load faster with the HDMI cable. It loads at least 1s faster: the flashing screen + artifacts that you see towards the end of my video don't happen. It just goes straight to desktop instead of loading again. Hmmm, with that in mind, there's only a few possibilities: Bad DP cable. (I'll try to change it next week if possible) Can a bad DP cable really do that? The issue only occurs in some situations and not everywhere.. NVidia driver and/or Windows 10 bug at 165hz/1440p This is likely IMO, but I seem to be the only one having this issue.. ??? I'm asking you: What do you think about this? Can a bad DisplayPort cable be the source of my trouble? Thank you for your help!
  13. 1) I'd like to turn down my voltage under load too. It's 1.39v in Cinebench which gives me high temperatures. I'd like something more reasonable. 2) why should I underclock my CPU? I mean, it runs fine at stock, the voltage is just too high I think? 3) An AIO cooler won't give me much better performance. A Dark Rock Pro 4 is nearly equivalent to a 240mm AIO I think.
  14. Can I really kill my CPU by undervolting it? Also, do you have a source on "Ryzen Master writes the changes to the BIOS" ? I can't find any
  15. Okay but (no offense) for thoses kind of things I'd really like to change it in the BIOS, I'd feel more comfortable with that than doing it through a software. Can I get an answer for this question?
  16. I think that'll only apply the voltage when ryzen master starts, I'd like to do it in the BIOS so it's more "definitive"
  17. It's not removable in this case afaik. I had lower temps in my previous case. My build is all new except the GPU/PSU which I reused from my dead computer.
  18. I plan to try 0.5 or 0.75v and see how it goes, if I want it a little cooler I'll try lower, but I have a few questions: When idling, my CPU's VCore goes down to 0.8v, with undervolting, it'll go even lower I guess? Will that still be stable with (e.g.) 0.7v? I don't want to crash at idle ? Are these the correct steps to undervolt my CPU? Go to the BIOS Find "VDDCR CPU Voltage" and change it from AUTO to OFFSET MODE Set the OFFSET MODE to "-" (minus) Set the OFFSET to 0.05 (or the value I wish to use) Will I need to change any other setting, such as "SoC" voltage? Sorry if theses questions seem stupid, but It's my first time changing BIOS settings like that I'd like to be sure of what I'm doing
  19. Hello! CPU: Ryzen 2700x MOBO: Asus Strix X470-F Gaming CPU COOLER: be quiet! Dark Rock Pro 4 Currently, at all stocks settings my CPU hits 1.4v fairly often under light loads. (With the cores going up to 4.3Ghz) Under load (Cinebench) my CPU temps rise up to 77°c (4.15Ghz boost, 1.32v I think). This is normal from what I've read, but too noisy/hot to my liking. I'd like to bring the temps a bit down to make my computer more silent and cooler. (Example: I'm ready to lose up to 5% performance if that means that my CPU will run 10°c cooler.) How can I do that? Some people told me that undervolting the CPU (by 0.05v, maybe more) would help greatly. Is that true? By how much should I undervolt? What else can I do ? Thank you!
×