Enochian

Hi, 

finally upgraded my obsidian 1000D with a custom loop and wanted to share the results. 
It turned pretty nice. 

Parts for the custom loop are all from corsair hydro x series. I was positively suprised with the quality of all of the elements and how they fit together.  
In the front i've got 2x 480 fatty rads  , coolant sits at 25 C and CPU iddles at 31 with ultra slow fan speed. 
It's a lot quiter than the AIO config i had before , did not expect it to be this much. 
 
One thing i would say the miss is some f-f connections to connect for example two tubes.
I had a 48 cm distance between cpu and front rad to cover and had to do it in the simpliest possible way. 
 


 

Hi, 

finally upgraded my obsidian 1000D with a custom loop and wanted to share the results. 
It turned pretty nice. 

Parts for the custom loop are all from corsair hydro x series. I was positively suprised with the quality of all of the elements and how they fit together.  
In the front i've got 2x 480 fatty rads  , coolant sits at 25 C and CPU iddles at 31 with ultra slow fan speed. 
It's a lot quiter than the AIO config i had before , did not expect it to be this much. 
 
One thing i would say the miss is some f-f connections to connect for example two tubes.
I had a 48 cm distance between cpu and front rad to cover and had to do it in the simpliest possible way. 
 


 

Hi, 

finally upgraded my obsidian 1000D with a custom loop and wanted to share the results. 
It turned pretty nice. 

Parts for the custom loop are all from corsair hydro x series. I was positively suprised with the quality of all of the elements and how they fit together.  
In the front i've got 2x 480 fatty rads  , coolant sits at 25 C and CPU iddles at 31 with ultra slow fan speed. 
It's a lot quiter than the AIO config i had before , did not expect it to be this much. 
 
One thing i would say the miss is some f-f connections to connect for example two tubes.
I had a 48 cm distance between cpu and front rad to cover and had to do it in the simpliest possible way. 
 


 

Id just attach a tube to another part of the loop and before the rad and blow, youll force the water out

Yup just have to connect them to the correct ports then and set it up correctly in the driver. However using many different speakers for a surround setup can cause some weird sound interactions as well they will not have the same sound profile and you can hear things in the wrong way. It can also work totally fine really just depends on the speakers in action.

If the purpose is to get surround sound, I think it should work as a 4.1 setup, yes

Probably based on your IP address.

This is not the question though. 
 
We don't know. 
We can't know how it will be. But they technically will work. 

Should be fine. Delidding greatly improves thermals so you could hit really high overclocks once you do that. Delidding tools are cheap on eBay, free if you have access to a 3d printer. Gamer's Nexus got it to 5.35GHz on all cores.

It should work fine, it would be like pairing an i5 10600k with a 3080ti, the 8086k is still a valid CPU

I like Push/Pull. Works great, especially if you can do it with your case fans
 
The rears are exhaust, top front and 3 fronts are intake..
 
Edit:
 
I'm using different ram.
 
 
 
 

Hey Guys, 

Maybe some of you will find that useful if you thinking about adding more pull fans or something to your build. 

I have an obsidian 1000d with :
8 ll120 fans in front in push
2 on back in pull
3 on top pushing trough a radiator and 2 pulling from it 
1 for drive bay. 
 
Recently one of my Commander pro died so the 2 back fans , 2 pulling fans from radiator and 2 front pushing fans were not working. 

I have several temp probes and one of them is in the middle of the case, near the mobo, just to see the general temp inside the case. 

When i could only use 1 commander pro, while waiting for the rma of the other the temperature after long gaming sessions were going around 30 / 31 C
 
When I added the second commander and all the fans came back to life the temps in the same scenario are peaking at 24 / 26 in the Case, so of course all the fans are quieter. 

I think this shows nicely the difference. 

Have a good weekend. 

Hi All, 

So it may sound like a silly question but i was never to good in the electricity department. 
Say i'm based in EU, i have 230V outlets, in the US you have 120V. 
Are pc components like gpus or psus specially adapted, depending on region ? 
I saw that some PSU can work on both 230v and 120v range. Is that always the case? 
If I would move my pc to the US now, would it work the same way? Why this difference in the first place?

https://support.steampowered.com/kb_article.php?ref=8379-RYIP-2998
 
 
 
It's a bit convoluted,  but once you know what you have to do its not that hard either
 
 
PS: if your games really don't get recognized this way, *don't* reinstall them for now... There are other ways to make Steam recognize them,  but this method really should work 99% of the time!
 
 
 

Yes. I tried running a WD Black, my 850 Evo, and my CP off one SATA plug to an RM850x, and it was drawing so much current to power the lights, the fans, and both drives, that I initially had detection issues and my WD Black wouldn't even show in Windows.

I've now got the CP on it's own SATA line back to the PSU. I'm not sure if it was too much on 1x 12V rail, or just for the cable itself. You should NOT be daisy-chaining CP's like that, it's a lot to power that many fans and that much RGB off a single SATA connection to the PSU.

Really depends on your perspective.

I have a background where my best subjects in school, my strengths, include writing, reading comprehension, and English in general. They were the classes that I was able to breeze through with very little to no studying.
Math on the other hand, well, I don't get along well with math at all. I spent, almost literally, all of my free time during my high school and college years in after school tutoring (30-40 hours a week) just to get through it. Some don't understand why I use a calculator as a crutch for something they find simple. I find writing to be simple, but I understand that not everyone else does. I have family members who really, really struggle with writing.

I see tools like Grammarly to be the functional equivalent of a calculator; a tool to be used, but not solely relied upon. Same with the now-ubiquitous spellcheck.
Write your segment. Overview it with spellcheck (or grammarly, or anything else) for simple errors.  Re-read through your works and correct any additional errors you come across.  Read through it one more time (again after any changes are made) to check for any unnecessary or incorrect changes from the past steps. That's the process that I used through school, I still use it (granted, much less often) when addressing professional, or documents that need to be accurate.
 
I don't know what Grammarly's data collection, security, or privacy policies look like as I've never considered using it, so I can't comment on that aspect.

that storage and cable managment is gross.

Phanteks Enthoo Luxe 2 probably

All 2080ti's with A-Chip on them perform about the same with room temperature based cooling. It doesnt matter which model you choose. 
All of them have coilwhine, all of them clock to about the same when overclocked (usually around 2100mhz, exception might be the KiNGPiN card from evga)
 
While you are able to maintain higher clock speeds in heavy loads for longer when watercooled vs air i wouldnt go with an AiO solution because those things are made to break, the pump in there most likely wont last you 5years, you can actually be happy if it lasts you about 2years..
 
As mentioned previously the FTW3 Ultra might be one of the best choices, it doesnt reach above 60°C with that aircooler quite often, it already comes with 380watt bios and has a bios switch. Other than that there is no reason to pay more when you plan to watercool anyways just get the cheapest 2080ti with A-Chip. If you want to watercool later instead of immediately get the cheapest with tripple fan in reference design and A-Chip so you can assure compatibility to most waterblocks and being able to actually buy one if you wish to do so, all waterblocks for "custom design pcb's" are very limited in production numbers and might be sold out or only barely available later.

The 240mm radiator will fit in the rear.
 
There are dust filters but indeed it's not sealed.
 
No because there is an opening just above the moterboard.
 
 
 
 

Go to a garage or wall or something. Park in front of it , put the lights on (u must be like 3 - 5 meters from the wall) and try to adjust it and see if the lights moves up or down. Of they don't move at all its broken. Depending on the frame of the lights , sometimes it is possible to put in the bulb a bit off and make it spread light incorrectly. 

Go to a garage or wall or something. Park in front of it , put the lights on (u must be like 3 - 5 meters from the wall) and try to adjust it and see if the lights moves up or down. Of they don't move at all its broken. Depending on the frame of the lights , sometimes it is possible to put in the bulb a bit off and make it spread light incorrectly. 

Did you try to smell it ? sometimes it's fairly easy to sense the burnt electronics. Also you can take a look for something melted or distorted capacitators ? 

So this will be one of the first times I mix both of my hobby's together and figured this is the best place to share this build.
 
A little background.
I am known as Elder1945 in the Saltwater Aquarium world (google Elder1945 and you will see some of my work).  I am lucky in the fact that I have multiple CNC machines from mills,laser and even water jet. To a full fledged automotive grade paint booth with mixing station. Multiple small and large format 3D printers and so on. 
 
Here are some pictures of my shop (located north of Toronto Canada)




 
 
 
So now to the build, I wanted to combine a full Saltwater reef, Gaming computer, Xbox with a Fallout theme.  I am known to push the limits of what is possible and enjoy the challenge.
 
This build is sponsored by multiple aquarium related company's including the following.

 
I am working now on the gaming PC that will be built into the system and should have a parts list soon.  The first step I am dealing with is finding a good case to base the build off of that fits all of my requirements.  I know in the back of my head I will just have to custom make one but i can still hope something will pop up.
 
I have made quite a bit of progress on the actual aquarium and I am just now starting to work out how to incorporate the gaming PC and Xbox. 
 
 
I started this build with the skirt to hide some of the stand, This will also raise the overall system off the floor for better wire management.
 







 
The steel stand:


 
You will end up not seeing most of the yellow but needed it for a little accent here and there. The overall idea is the build the gaming PC on the left side above the Xbox.  From this stage I can now take measurements and work out if it is even possible to run a cooling loop into the aquarium. 
 
All of the fish tank equipment  :

 
The PC hobby now is in full swing as I am finally ready to work out what type of water cooling solution is going to work.  If this was a fresh water system the build would be easy to work out but as saltwater is corrosive and multiple products,metal and plastic can leech into the system this make everything a thousand times harder to work out.  
 
This system is going into my "gaming" office in my home and it will be a full reef with coral,fish and inverts aka shrimp and crabs. 
 
Just for reference this is my last reef tank that had a gaming PC built into the left hand side.  However this was done more for show then practical use and I ended up taking it down for this reason.  This build I want it to show well but also have piratical use i.e. easy to upgrade, easy to wire manage and overall easy to use.

 
Stay tuned for some fun and excitement!  I am also 100% open to suggestions on this build as I am willing to build and or try anything.