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Amin S

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  1. I went to Microcenter planning to get either an i5 8400 or an R5 2600. The sales person thought they were comparable but that the AMD might prove to be a little more future proof, so I went with that. I realize that not everyone would agree with him, but I will say that I like how AMD seems to sometimes let you change processor generations without a new motherboard. None of my many Intel builds have allowed for that. This is the system I built him tonight: GIGABYTE X470 AORUS GAMING 5 AM4 AMD AMD RYZEN 5 2600 WRAITHS SAMSUNG E 500GB 970EVO NVME M.2 SSD MICROSOFT WIN HOME 10 32/64 USB RS IPSG 16GB 2X8GB DDR4 3200 KIT EVGA GQ 650W 80+G SM ATX PSU I put that together with his existing GTX 1070 and an extra Fractal Design Define R6 case I had lying around. This was my first AMD processor build, and it went very smoothly. Not a hitch. Most importantly, my son loves it. Thanks for the help, everyone!
  2. I was looking at this bundle: http://www.microcenter.com/product/5001847/amd-ryzen-5-2600-with-wraith-stealth-cooler,-asus-prime-x470-pro-cpu-motherboard-bundle One of the reviews for that motherboard said "You should know that this board does require a BIOS update to POST despite the misinformation to the contrary. I went through two processors and motherboards before picking up an A6 to update the BIOS." That's my only concern. EDIT: Based on the reviews, I think I'm gonna go for this one: http://www.microcenter.com/product/5001885/amd-ryzen-5-2600-with-wraith-stealth-cooler,-gigabyte-x470-aorus-gaming-5-cpu-motherboard-bundle
  3. It's a Seasonic Platinum 1000w PSU. Regardless, I'm not focused on what broke. I just want to build a new PC for my son and will be buying all new components. I was looking at R5 2600, and some of the motherboard reviews said that they had to update the BIOS before the PC would post. Can anyone recommend a MB which will go with the R5 2600 and work out of the box without me having to first do a BIOS update?
  4. I should mention - these days he plays mostly Fortnite and Assassin's Creed. He is interested in buying the new Call of Duty as well.
  5. I'm definitely open to suggestion from now until work is done for the day (around 4pm) and I go to Microcenter :). Thanks, everyone!
  6. I edited my post above with some more info. Also, I did take out the CPU to clean the old paste and may have done something to it there. I've built a lot of PCs and never broke anything, so I guess I wasn't as careful as I used to be when handling the CPU, putting it in place, etc. But last night I literally took apart and reassembled everything twice, so I know it isn't a loose cable or something like that.
  7. I'm not 100% sure it's the motherboard, but it's either than or something else died when I was installing the new cooler. I am guessing I over tightened the CPU cooler, but who knows. Could be the CPU. All I know is that I checked and double checked all connections, and it only boots one out of 10 tries and then gives an error about "memory address is insufficient due to Intel Thunderbolt resource consumption". I will see what else I can salvage from that PC after I build a new one else for my son. Thanks for all replies. I am intent on buying the parts from Microcenter on the way home today and doing the build tonight, so everything will be new not used (except for keeping his GPU). And he shows no interest in overclocking, which probably isn't going to change. I was trying to show him how I delidded and overclocked my 8700k,- he couldn't care less.
  8. Hello, I was installing a new CPU cooler on my son's PC (which I also built) and broke his motherboard. He has an i7-4770k CPU (which he never overclocked), and my local Microcenter doesn't carry any 1150 socket motherboards. I'm going to take this opportunity to build him a new PC while keeping his existing graphics card, which is a GTX 1070. He's not going to overclock at all. What's the best value CPU that won't bottleneck his GTX 1070 on FPS shooter games at 1080p? I'm not married to Intel or AMD. Just looking for a good value. Thanks for any advice.
  9. I was using the trial version of some image resizing software which can be configured to use the CPU with or without help from GPU. Using CPU only, a friend of mine with an 8700k overclocked to 4.7GHz on all cores found that resizing a particular file took 5m 40s. My 8700k overclocked to 5.2GHz on all cores with a negative AVX offset of 2 took 5m 39s to resize the same file with the same settings. The image resizing software uses AVX, so I was only getting 5GHz, but still, I was surprised to only get a 1s faster result than my friend got at 4.7GHz. That's only 0.3% faster. Next I changed my overclock to 5.1GHz on all cores with no AVX offset, and with that I got 5m 24s, which is 5% faster than my friend was getting at 4.7GHz. Strange results, right? Seems that the AVX offset can have unexpected and undesirable performance consequences in some situations. Is that right?
  10. Thanks for the replies. It does bother me that I can get it to crash with my 5.2 GHz settings. It seems like I can get 5.1 GHz at 1.35v with no AVX offset and LLC set to Auto to be stable in all torture tests, so I'm going to go with that.
  11. I'm a noob and this has been covered before, I'm sure, but looking for some input specific to my case. I delidded my 8700k and had a great result - close to a 20 deg drop in temps. I'm overclocking all cores to 5.2GHz with AVX neg offset of 2 at 1.425v and LLC set to 6. My system has been completely stable with normal use for weeks and is also stable using Prime95 v26.6 and Cinebench as recommended in this video: However, it always seems to crash with more than a couple hours of RealBench. I'm guessing that RealBench is a heavier stressor than any game or other use I will ever have for my PC, so can I just assume it is "stable enough" barring any instability encountered in regular use? Or should I find an overclock setting which can survive 8 hours of RealBench? Of note, prior to the recent delidding, my CPU was long term stable at 5GHz and AVX neg offset 2 at 1.275v and LLC. A related question - could an overly ambitious GPU overclock affect the stability of my CPU overclock?
  12. Some of you may think that this is really obvious, and I admit I am far from an expert here, but I'm gonna share it anyway in case it helps someone looking to lower the temps on their EVGA 1080 Ti SC2. These are the specs on my PC: Case: Fractal Define R6 CPU: i7-8700K @ 5GHz all cores CPU cooler: Corsair H115i Pro Power supply: Corsair HX850i OS: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit Boot and app drive: Samsung 970 Evo 1TB NVMe M.2 SSD Scratch: Samsung 970 Evo 500GB NVMe M.2 SSD Storage drives: 3 x Seagate 4TB BarraCuda RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z370-E GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti SC2 @ +55 GPU +200 MEM Display: ASUS ROG Swift PG279Q (1440p G-Sync IPS) @ 144Hz I had been using the H115i fans as intake with a single rear exhaust. Pic: In most games, I was seeing decent enough GPU temps, no higher than mid 60s, but in some games I was getting much higher. For example, Final Fantasy XV on max settings kept the GPU temp consistently near 80 deg with fans at 50%. I prefer to keep the GPU fans no higher than 50% because they are pretty loud at 60% or higher. I went to my local Microcenter and asked some of the sales folks there what I could do to get better GPU temps. I explained my current case and fan setup and asked if adding or moving case fans might help. They said it wouldn't make much difference at all and suggested I try replacing the thermal paste in the GPU. If that didn't work, they said I could install the EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Hybrid Kit. I decided to try adding some fans back in anyway since it is easier to do than either of the solutions they mentioned, I moved the H115i fans to the top as an exhaust and added two 140mm intake fans in the front: Result: Massive drop in GPU temp. With the same modest overclock and GPU fan curve, I'm seeing mid 60s instead of high 70s in FFXV. Around a 13-14 deg drop in temp. I'm not sure if my CPU temps have changed a little, but they remain good, regardless. And my PC is overall just as quiet as before. The added 140mm fans aren't loud at all. To me the moral of the story (and again I realize this is obvious to some of you) is not to assume anything - test some different fan configurations. What works for one system may not work for another!
  13. I don't know if it's safe or not, but I wipe my keys and mouse with alcohol pads every once in a while and have never had them crack. I also occasionally (maybe twice a year) wipe them with Chlorox wipes to disinfect.
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