BLLDoesTech

This is my personal rig, so i wanted something cool but also didn't require a lot of work to put together. I chose the Corsair Crystal 570x and decided to add some RGB to it ?
After putting everything together, there were a couple of things i didn't like:
 
- I didn't like the fact that the Tinted Glass Panels made everything look grey instead of white. 
- The Psu shroud didn't have a cover at the edge so the psu wires could be seen. 
- The Stock fan brackets had some ugly cut-outs and didn't really look very good with rgb fans. 
- The "dark side" was showing. This one was really bad
- I could only mount 2 fans at the top, which looked weird.






So I decided to add some custom made parts we've been making, to make my build look better. Here's what i added to the build:

Fullsize Psu Shroud:



Fan Brackets (top and front). The Front Bracket lowers the fans by 10mm, which lets you install a 360mm radiator at the front and still be able to install 3x 120mm fans at the top, with our custom brackets.







Motherboard tray Cover:



Clear Panels for Front, Top and window side, and a matt white for the backside to hide the cables:




Now the case looks white as it should ?


Gpu Backplate:


Finished looks:




And that's it for now
Let me know what you think of it.

So is Larry effectively saying that you have to make a post on a social network to join this strike the point of which is to not use social networks for two days? The whole thing contradicts with itself, and I am personally unable to join because I don't use social networks, period.

W O W

Here is something for CAD workers and Gamers. Also used by those with disabilities. The legendary Logitech Trackman Marble FX T-CJ12 Trackball. A trackball that can be manipulated with precision between thumb and fingers, and with a finger flip move anywhere on the screen. Great for repetitive motions as your arm from the wrist to shoulder need not move in normal use.
 

 
 I have been hoarding these for decades. Yes sir found a stock of new OEM balls also. The balls are durable but can get dimpled and scratched.
.

 
New units come with: a sealed software packet shipped folded inside the users guide which is itself factory sealed; an instructional hang-tag on the P/S2 to serial adapter, a loose warranty card, usually a quick start card, and occasional a separate brochure.
 

 
These work as "Plug and Play" [no extra software required] three button devices under all modern OS with a PS/2 serial port. Port is typically added with a USB dongle.
 
OR
 
I have converted several internally to USB by adding the necessary hardware inside the trackball's case. Below is the one I am using now.
 


 
When you find these today most are wore out from twenty years of use.  I have many new and used T-CJ12s. With experience it is easy to know how used they are. I have a form I use to rate them, before packing and storing them.
 
Keeping it simple:
Is it in its original box? = the ball and buttons are very susceptible to damage in handling and storage,
Check the logo - logo worn away = unit worn out,
Check the color and texture - the duckbill is originally textured = it gets dingy, yellowed and/or worn smooth from years of use, 
Check that the bottom sticker is not pierced or peeled by the serial number [hidden case screw] = attempted repairs most often mean trouble,
Check that all buttons click properly and audibly; test two larger buttons at all corners. = buttons do wear out.
Check the ball carefully - if a dimple or scratch on the ball catches a sharp pencil point = the ball is bad and possibly the bearings,
Check the bearing cups for ware and damage = any damage renders the device trash,
Check the the IR window is intact - missing IR cover = abuse,
Check the four bottom pads - soiled, worn, missing = how hard has its life been,
. . .
I have similar points that I use when verifying that trackballs are new. Many I acquired new, but others were NOS open boxes. Some units where represented as new but on inspection were actually used.  I have many points I check to rate them. Of course if the cord is loose or the software open a trackball may be nearly new, but can never be new. The teal swoosh and red mark in the logo are solid, inspecting the logo under magnification will quickly show a units use as the decal initially wears quickly [leaving gaps, spots] until its worn smooth then it takes years of heavy use to disappear entirely.
 
I should note that having had the opportunity to use multiple newer vintage trackballs in the last several years that the smoothness and fluidity of ball movement and the responsiveness of clicks improves through the first few hundred hours of use for trackballs that have sat unused for 15+ years. I believe the bearing get smoother and the clicks more responsive with use. 
 
I have a T-CJ12 that I bought from a man who received it from Logitech back in the day, he reviewed it for a few days, then stored it for 12 years until I bought it. I rated it at 95%. 80-90% is a good used device, these are the ones I convert to USB; very nice but used enough that I do not feel too bad about piercing the label to install the conversion.
 
There is a learning curve with this device, many people set them aside rather than allowing themselves enough time to adapt. I often have kept a second traditional mouse connected to shared computers.
 

The good old days when GPU designs were a lot more.... frisky.

Phanteks Evolv X
ASUS Maximus XI Extreme
Intel i9 9900K
ASUS Ryuo 240 AIO
ASUS Strix 2080Ti OC
G.Skill Trident Z RGB 32GB
2x Samsung 860 Pro SSDs
1x Samsung 970 Pro M.2
Seasonic Prime Titanium 850W
Corsair LL120 and LL140 RGB fans
Corsair K70 MK.2 Lowprofile keyboard
Corsair M65 Elite Mouse
Klipsch ProMedia THX 4.1 speakers (They still kick azz)

Yeah i fixed it before hand and it kinda screwed up when i was fixing cables so i'm just gonna try and re screwing it in 

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600
Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62
Motherboard : ASUS Crosshairs VI hero
Memory : kingston hyper x black 16gb 2666
Graphics Card INNO3d Gtx 10603gb (custom backplate)
Storage WD BLue 1 tb 240gb kingston ssd
Case Fractal Design Define R6
Cables Cablemod Pro kit 

That's a nice build, can we get a spec list?

How does it look ?
and any tips on how to improve it?

I actually intend to pick up one of these 16:9 CRT tv's to add to my collection but from what I understand... They are capable of 1080i or 720i with a max progressive resolution of half of 1080 (aka 540p). Why idk, is it true? idk. I assume I'll find out. The delay isn't significant and does not from what I understand add any ghosting, but it's not the 0 latency experience of a truly VGA direct input display. I do know that fighting games clubs and enthusiasts say to avoid them. But then again, I'm not a fighting games enthusiast. 

I'm pretty sure all HD CRT TV's are 720p/1080i. Though some doesn't support 720p. Sadly we didn't get almost any HD CRT TV's here in Europe.
I use a 32" 16:9 576i 100Hz Sony Trinitron KV-32FX68E CRT TV to play PS2, PS3, Xbox and Xbox 360. And I use it to watch anime and youtube (mostly for music).
 

Not everyone knows they are called CRT, so looking up "monitor" or "tube" can also yield results.

since most of the time (at least here in 2019, hello potential future readers) you can get a CRT for free, its pretty low risk to give a try.

I love GN XD I just love how even on youtube, the Simpsons did it first XD

At first, I thought this was just a thread bashing GN for his boring videos...
But nope... They legit did a video on how cardboard is made... wow

Cool
 
Sadly not near Pittsburg, would love to come by if I was though, I'll go on Craigslist and pick up a few CRTs and test different ones
 
And you said that CRTs give better color, yet worse black/white correct?

me neither lol, imma try it some time, does it have to be a good CRT or any?
Mind recommending one I should /could buy?
I already have multiple HDMI to VGA adaptors

They still sell a HDMI to VGA adapter at wallmart, so you can grab one fast, but you'll overpay for it vs online. There are some artifacting issues with basic ones at very high pixel clocks, a good one online (which I will link once I have one and can verify) costs around 70 bucks. Assuming it works as advertised. Again, review pending.

As for new games on an old monitor... Some games like Fallout 4 will have scaling issues with either the background or UI similar to how ultrawide can require some mods or .ini adjustments. There's a 4:3 mod for Fallout that fix the problems with the UI. League of legends, for example, does a zoom crop thus putting a native 4"3 player at a disadvantage and finally since a lot of these monitors lack perfect convergence due to age and whatnot games with very fine text and UI details like Stellaris can also be a pain.

That being said, you can run games like league in 16:9 letterboxed, and mods or edits exist for a lot of games like fallout. But with a decent quality CRT that isn't super high hours most games particularly colorful ones will be more vibrant, have better black levels, and unparalleled anti-ghosting. You can achieve better colors on the Samsung quantum dot monitors but they have a ton of other drawbacks. (I have the Samsung 4k 32" UH850) Drawbacks include, not great ghosting, no gsync, persistent film grain, 60hz. But it's perfect for everything a CRT is awful at, like Stellaris and Eve Online

PS i have played overwatch on it, and that works fine great even! I dont have fortnite installed.

Nice guide!
 
Many older games (and new ones too) looks a lot better on CRT's than on LCD's. For example Half-Life 2 looks really good on my cheap 17" Samsung SAMTRON 76E (made in 2004).
Bad picture because it was taken with a phone
 

Woo an i3 2120, like a $20 CPU that was probably in the scrap bin.

Someone really blew it.