DukeJukem

my tpm has a few encryption options and im not sure which i should have enabled or disabled. sha 256 is enabled by default in my bios/when i restore defaults on the board but theres also a sha 384 option which i read is faster than the 256 variant. there is also another option thats a chinese standard encryption but i forget the exact name of it. my question is should i be using 256 or 384? should i have both of them enabled? also are there any other specific options in my tpm settings that i should have enabled or disabled for the best experience?

Short story. I'm selling my 2070 because I need money and I'm going to build a pc around the 56/5700g processor with the leftover money I have. I'm wondering if an A520 board will give that chip it's full potential. I'm not planning on doing any overclocking or adding in any extra cards unless I don't like the onboard audio then I'll pop a sound card in. I only plan on doing light gaming or running less demanding games like cs, valorant etc at 1440x1080 res. with the lowest settings most likely.

Ok :). How many days would you leave the auction open for?

Short story. I'm stuck on Haswell atm and my board has been through alot of shit and it's on its' last leg. I need christmas money/money for other things so I'm gonna sell my 2070 and build a 5600g/5700g rig. My question is what's a "fair" price to sell it for? The reason I ask is due to minor cosmetic damage and I don't want to be the guy who charges a fortune. The cosmetic issue is minor, one of the blades on one of the fans is missing because I was cleaning it with an air compressor and I stopped the spinning manually by hand and clipped a blade.........yea i know. The card slightly vibrates now because the fan bearing is off center or something now after I did that. The card functions perfectly otherwise and it's not loud. I know the 5600g/5700g if way worse graphics performance wise but it will be a nice upgrade cpu wise compared to my 4790k and I'm only planning on playing valorant and a few other titles I've researched that will hit 60 fps on lower settings. The card is an MSI RTX 2070 Gaming Z. I was thinking of being "nice" and asking $600 usd for it which is $100 over msrp but the card is in good condition and I've never had it go over 63 ish celsius because I mainly play competitive titles on low/lowered settings with my fans at 70% in msi afterburner 24/7. Any advice about price, how/where to sell it etc. is welcomed please.

Short story. I'm stuck on Haswell atm and my board has been through alot of shit and it's on its' last leg. I need christmas money/money for other things so I'm gonna sell my 2070 and build a 5600g/5700g rig. My question is what's a "fair" price to sell it for? The reason I ask is due to minor cosmetic damage and I don't want to be the guy who charges a fortune. The cosmetic issue is minor, one of the blades on one of the fans is missing because I was cleaning it with an air compressor and I stopped the spinning manually by hand and clipped a blade.........yea i know. The card slightly vibrates now because the fan bearing is off center or something now after I did that. The card functions perfectly otherwise and it's not loud. I know the 5600g/5700g if way worse graphics performance wise but it will be a nice upgrade cpu wise compared to my 4790k and I'm only planning on playing valorant and a few other titles I've researched that will hit 60 fps on lower settings. The card is an MSI RTX 2070 Gaming Z. I was thinking of being "nice" and asking $600 usd for it which is $100 over msrp but the card is in good condition and I've never had it go over 63 ish celsius because I mainly play competitive titles on low/lowered settings with my fans at 70% in msi afterburner 24/7. Any advice about price, how/where to sell it etc. is welcomed please.

if im manually setting my clocks to 4.4 in the bios do i turn turbo boost off or leave it to auto is what im mainly asking

A picture of the K OC setting in the BIOS? I suppose I could. Other than that I'm setting my cpu frequency to 4.4 ghz in bios and the cpu cach ratio to 4.4ghz as well. My temps go into the 70s running cinebench and all I do is game so I think I'm ok in that regard.

In light of LTTs' recent video about bad cables I have a question. My 2070 acts weird if I turn my graphics settings up in game/if theres a large area being viewed (Launching from the jump ship in Apex Legends) My screen will "flutter" and be choppy but it's not actual screen tearing. It's sort of like look through something very hot and the environment behind you is "fluttery." This also happens if I uncap my framerate past my 144hz refresh rate. My Monitor is an AOC 24G2. Is my card/one of the ports dying or is it maybe a bad cable? Also when I run ANY game in bordlerless window the screen flutters and stuff.....wth? These things never used to happen on my 60hz screen.

If I manually set my cpu core frequency and uncore/cache frequency to 4.4ghz in my bios should i turn turbo boost on or off? Also, does anyone know what the K OC setting in the BIOS actually does?

i mean when i popped my nvidia card out i ran display driver uninstaller and even ran it for amd stuff too. i also went into the group policy before installing the amd drivers and enabled the setting to prevent driver installation not described by other policy settings and disabled windows update driver installs. i disabled the group policy setting i just mentioned before i installed the amd driver (if u dont do this the driver will error out during the install). i know i dont need to reinstall my driver, i've been reinstalling drivers the right way since the xp days. games im playing are apex legends and dead by daylight. im having a hardware issue somewhere and im trying to pinpoint it. an i5 4690k shouldnt bottleneck anything for 1080p gaming either. the 0 percent utilization number has to be real, because i saw it. can i get a possible answer from someone whos first thoughts arent driver reinstalls or vsync issues. i try that stuff before i ask questions

so i swapped my overheating gtx 980 founders out for an rx 590. i do notice a slight performance boost but i can't play @ 1080p 76 frames constant (my monitors refresh rate) without frame drops. this is with tweaking to both of my favorite games i've tested, meaning i have shadows completely off in all ways in their ini files. before the 1660 series came out the 590 was considered the "1080p" king i guess. so why cant i game at 76 frames constant with lowered settings at 1080p? i couldnt do it on my 980 either regardless of whether it would overheat or not. i am having weird issues with the card that i've noticed thanks to rivattuner as well. sometimes in game my gpu usage will drop to a low utilation or even 0% on occasion and i have all radeon chill stuff off but when its at 0 percent my frames dont drop either. youd figure 0 percent would mean id be getting like 1fps but nah its fine. otherwise the card is basically always hitting 100% utilization in game, which is also strange to me because i thought 1080p was more cpu bound? my cpu is around 65 percent when my gpu is hitting 100. is something wrong? i have an i5 4690k @ 4.4ghz on all 4 cores constantly and it cinebenched marvelously. am i just expecting too much? i have new ram coming and a samsung 1 tb 860 evo coming to replace some older hardware i have but idk if it will help. is my board or psu trash? current specs powercolor radeon rx590 not overclocked or anything, using msi afterburner and rivatuner to monitor everything i5 4690k running @ 4.4 ghz 8 gigs ddr3 corsair dominator ram overclocked to 2400 mhz, maybe 2133 mushkin enhanced reactor 1tb ssd gigabyte z97 motherboard those specs should net me 76 frames @ 1080p with shadows off right? especially if im swapping my current mushkin ssd out for a samsung 860 evo 1tb which is much better in all ways and im upgrading to slightly faster ram but double the capacity. do i simply need 16 gigs for 1080p? im just very confused. i'm not a hardware guy, im a software guy :P.

yay! thank you

im looking to upgrade my gtx 980 founders to either an rx 590x or 1660 ti. my 980 require 2 x 6 pin power connectors to be setup properly. 1660ti requires just one 8 pin and the 590x needs a 6 pin and an 8 pin. my question is the current cables i have inserted into my 980 are 6 pin connectors with a seperate chord that has 2 extra connectors. both of my 6 pin chords have this extra little 2 pin chord hanging to the side of it. does this mean i meet the "8 pin" requirement for these newer gfx cards if i just plug the 6 pin in along with the little extra 2 pin chord attached to it? or do i need an entire connector thats 8 pin as one part instead of a 6+2 pin? i gotta get this overheating 980 outta here

Hello. I am trying to achieve super spare grid super-sampling in overwatch as well as dead by daylight. I know i need to set the AA setting to Override inside nvidia inspector for my game I want to tweak but i need the AA compatibility flag value or I can select from something that's already in the drop down list. For Overwatch and Dead By Daylight I do not know the values/if I can select something from the drop down list that's already there. I've searched google for specific values for these titles but did not find anything. Close, but not exactly what I needed. Any help/advice would be appreciated :D

lastly dont use driver easy its garbage

use your phone or whatever you're on right now and google/go to intels site and find those drivers and download them and drag them over to the computer and install them

you cant reinstall windows because you don't have a copy laying around? you can download windows 10 for free by googling "windows media creation tool" and downloading an iso. you can refer to this guide as well https://www.techspot.com/guides/1764-windows-repair-keep-all-your-files-intact/

so basically i got tired of nvidia telemetry on my system so i can a command prompt script that you can google for that brings up the official nvidia telemetry uninstaller, and i uninstalled it. before i mention my issue i have to mention this. i have a 60hz display and i created a custom resolution through nvidias control panel that successfully bumped me up to 76hz stable. this is my issue. before i uninstalled nvidia telemtry my games were registering the 76hz overclock fine while vsync was turned on in games. the games would give me 76 frames with vsync on just fine. great news right? a bonus 16 frames? hell yea however, after uninstalling the nvidia telemetry bullshit my games no longer give me 76hz with vsync on. the games will only give me 60. i've deleted and readded the custom resolution i created in nvidia control panel. i've switched between the overclocked resolution vs standard after deleting and recreating the custom overclocked one. windows display settings are reading my monitor at 76hz no problem. so why are my games not giving me 76hz with vsync on after uninstalling nvidia telemetry? why is nvidia such a garbage company that binds everything to their telemetry bullshit? they seriously stole my overclock on my monitor since i removed their telemetry.......like wtf edit: well it gives me all of my frames in bordless windows mode but not true fullscreen now. very weird behavior

and rebooted after correct? sorry to ask such basic things. my last suggestion would be to google "display driver uninstaller" and run that in safe mode then reinstall your graphics driver. if that doesn't work a reformat needs to be done.

i guess i suck at reading today. i have a hyperxcloud revolver and sometimes i have to smash my mic into place or it wont work lol. are u willing to uninstall the realtek audio driver and reboot to let windows install the microsoft ones and see if it works that way? u said u tried it on a different motherboard too? i think your mic is just dead then

so u ran the program i suggested and you still have issues?

waaaaaaaaaaaaaaiiiiiiiiiit a minute heeeeeeerrrreeee lol. i've had this issue. basically any sound that goes through your mic is playing through your speakers/u hear it? i had this issue with my realtek audio as well (which is why i uninstalled that shit and use the windows default sound driver) but anyways, i forgot completely how to fix it because i only experienced it once, but i think i can guide you. right click your speaker icon in the taskbar and hit sounds, go to playback and find your default speakers. here's the part where my brain is shady. theres something in the "levels" section that is fucked up and its because your speakers aren't setup properly, i figured this out because i muted one of the channels in the "levels" tab and it went away, at least in my case. so select your default speakers and hit configure. set it up as normal aka stereo 5.1 etc but try unchecking front left right speakers during the setup, or try setting it up as stereo instead of 5.1 etc. i believe the issue comes from setting it up as a 5.1 system or higher so try stereo. now test again. when i had this issue i figured out i had to mute something in the levels tab to make the issue go away, but i thought to myself i shouldnt have to do that so i think i reconfigured my speakers in order for that section in levels to not even show up at all aka changing from 5.1 to stereo in the "configure" option. my memory is shady and you'll have to play around but i'm dead nuts that's your issue though. i misread your post but now i think i know exactly what you're talking about and i've experienced the exact same thing and fixed it

try this. it might sound weird lol but i've had similar audio issues and this dumb trick worked firstly power off the system and make sure all of your audio cables are properly seated. even if you think they are just unplug and reseat them to be sure. here's the silly thing that worked for me. fully power off the rig and just unplug the power chord completely from the computer for a few seconds. replug and turn it back on. i had a "no sound" issue / an issue where my audio was insanely robotic sounding and that trick fixed it. no driver updates etc would touch the issue. good luck

open your start menu and type cmd, right click it and run as admin. copy and paste this in there and hit enter. this enables the ultimate performance power plan in windows. powercfg -duplicatescheme e9a42b02-d5df-448d-aa00-03f14749eb61 download park control here. the 64 bit version is below main download button. https://bitsum.com/parkcontrol/ install it run as admin and make sure everything is disabled and set to 100% and select the ultimate performance power plan from the drop down list. do all of this while the laptop is plugged in download winaerotweaker from here. https://winaero.com/request.php?1796 run that as admin when u install/after u install. once this is open there is a search box at the top of the program. type power in there. a power throttling option may appear depending on your windows version. double click it to navigate inside the option and place a check box in the option to disable power savings. YOU WILL NEED TO REBOOT AFTER THIS lemme know the results. changing the power plan in windows the normal way might not work because the advanced settings of the plan may be set to throttle shit somehow. parkcontrol/ultimate performance power plan thwarts this behaviour along with the power throttling setting in winaerotweaker. that setting is a registry tweak btw.

sounds like a keylogger. google "adwcleaner" and "roguekiller" and run a scan with those bad boys. easy to use antimalware tools that are very quick. delete what they find.