Ishan_J

I would say keep the backmarket one again, especially if you're just trading it in anyways. Cosmetics shouldn't really matter when you trade it in, so you might as well get as much money back now as possible.

If it were up to me, I'd get rid of the amazon one since the warranty is much shorter, and in my opinion, backmarket's warranty is much better anyways, plus you'd get the most money back returning the amazon one. (this is assuming you don't care about cosmetics, like I do. I JUST finally got rid of my old iphone X (for an XR) that had half the back glass missing and a cracked screen, only because the digitizer broke, otherwise it was a much better phone than the XR)

I'm not sure what you're asking for, either. 
 
The blue one has a healthier battery. The black one has more cycles on its battery. Other than that and their cosmetic condition, they're functionally identical. 🤷‍♂️
 
If you want to get as much money back as possible, sell the one that's in better cosmetic shape.
 

Well then it is confirmed that it is your monitor's issue.
And, no, it wouldn't affect any other devices connected to it.

After troubleshooting for months I realised that I was using Microsoft's UBD 2.0 drivers. So I downloaded Fiio K3 DAC driver from thier website, which is very hard to find here is the link if you want. I found this link from a reddit post. 
 
After installing this drivers problem has been solved successfully. Now I can also here booting sound of Windows and all small stream of audio like error and notifications which was not possible before. I haven't tested on the other OS like Ubuntu and macOs, I don't thing it will work because lack of driver but I will post my observations on this thread. 
 
Thank you everyone for your guidance and support. 

Makes perfect sense, gotta be a sleep function of some sort.  I can't help you solve the issue but that sounds right to me

That involves removing the IHS.
There are risks involved...and certainly voids all warranties after that.
 

 

Well it's kind of one of those no going back kind of things. If you crack the lid open to check, you have to replace the TIM anyway.

Well, 8th gen intel still used toothpaste. It's possible your TIM sucks.
 
Delidding would help, presuming everything else is as you insist.

as others mentioned, prob. weird contact.

slowly tighten your screws in x pattern, going over a few times and not 100% on each corner on your first pass.

Poor IHS coldplate contact ?

*** Thread cleaned ***
 
If you have no intentions of helping, don't bother posting. This includes posts like "because you are X, I don't help". Those don't add anything to conversation.

Okay I will do that 
 

okay i will do that 

Could be the USB port interrupts are shared with something else like the video card or storage.

Try it in different USB ports, and see if the issue persists. Also is there any other USB devices connected which could be interfering? IF you have, try disconnecting everything except the mouse, and test it. If it's fine, then add one device back at a time, till you observe the problem again. That might help narrow down the issue.

What you really should be doing is unplugging the Windows drive entirely. No matter which drive you choose, if a bootloader exists already on another drive the OS will always install it alongside. The only way to guarantee it ends up where you want is to unplug everything else.
 
After its installed you can reconnect the Windows drive, boot into Ubuntu and run "sudo update-grub" from Terminal to add Windows to GRUB.

If you pick the disk Windows is installed on (/dev/sda, I think), then you should get a boot menu every boot, so you can choose between Windows and Ubuntu. If you install the boot loader on the other disk, you'll have to switch between boot disks in the BIOS any time you want to switch between Windows and Linux.

It will be fine if you keep it under 100.
 
Most laptops tend to teeter on the edge of thermal throttling anyway.
 
That said, unless you do heavy CPU on the reg, like rendering or whatever, you won't likely see those temps in real life usage.

can you remove the cooler and take picture of the thermal paste spread?
then clean it and check for uneven heat pipes. especially the ones in the middle. 
 
do you have extra thermal paste?
you'll want some to do this.
 
also keep in mind benchmarking will push you CPU harder than anything else you do normally so you wont be hitting those temps on a day to day use.
 

If I visit the site from Linux I get the choice between 32 bit and 64 bit. I assume you only got offered the 64 bit ISO, which is probably what they are talking about.

Yup its the same iso. You can use a iso as many times as you want.

hey...since xmp profile is on...try using hwinfo64 to have a look at memory speed if it's 1500mhz then you're running at 3000mhz...maybe just windows not recognizing it...my task manager shows no speed..haha..
 
oh you uses 2 different rams..hmm...good luck if it works...haha

Using 2 different speed RAM will make it clock to the slower DIMM, so yeah. You can try manually OC-ing but it might not go so well

Maybe a stupid idea, but try putting the slower stick in A1. 

yes