Neo-revo

yes, i have a separate peltier setup that i built after 4 times of research before i even started to plan/order things,  and  even before i got the first things i ordered i changed/modified my ideas for application and ordered other things.
 
From my own personal experience  and studying the weird 3 info-set  linear graph  with two input/out results at 25 and 50C    
 
i learned lots of other things too, like  how a 12710 TEC1 means that its a single stage, with 127 P/N couples with an max amp rating of 10.   
 
the graphs showed the temp diff of the hot/cold plate and  the amperage that would require to achieve that. Meaning that not only are they inefficient that  the efficiency can be altered by running them at alternate voltage/amperage's.   Then have to consider the how to hot to keep the hot side, since as it get hotter the resitance increase's meaning more power to continue stable performance.  When i got my Peltiers and AC/DC switching PSU i began to mettle with things,
the Pure copper 550gr 1u server heatsinks that i acquired cheaply with their 4mm thick base didn't work as well as i though they would, i mean they worked fine, but i have old air cooling heatsinks Zalman ones that were boss when i still air cooled, and  put the hot side on one of those, (rated for 190w tdp back int he day i think) and  got some sub zero reading within seconds,   and in a 21c room i got a copper nb heatsink to sit at -16.7c and  froze a thermometer with a wet napkin and it read -23.7c  i was running them  at 12v  on the 40a switching  with fans on a controller with slider knobs and also on the psu. 
 
on the 1u heatsink allowing the base to get hot got the cold side really cold, and  on the zalman  runing the fan at max with a fan in front and behind as well got frost forming in the first 2 seconds on a exposed coldside,
 
recently while my system was down i jerry rigged my cpu cooler and the cpu WB together with long screws and got  water at 25c to ambient (21c) and then  after a few hours (no heat load)  got a single 12710 at 12v to hold water in the loop at 13.7c.   At this point i was running a single vario d5 at 1,  even puttign it on 2 made the water probe register scaling up.   im not sure if the 36W at max would even have an effect, im not sure what amp/volts it runs on 1 any how ( volt-meter broken atm) and  can only think that  circulating it faster in the uninstalled 'mock' loop that it was jsut trying to keep everything cold  (res/pumps/tubes/fitting and etc)   sitting in the room at 21c.
 
Just a little actual  results to consider.    and yes,  if i even wanted to chill just my CPU on a separate loop i would need 3 12710 all working together to get a  decent cold water,    i might even need more  since heat load and rated wattage are two separate things. A 100w peltier doesn't chill 100W, its the  recommended running wattage.   The actual heatpumping value will vary on a lot of specific variables that are going to be specific to every setup. 
 

its the opposite of microwaving water till its super heated and watching explode when disturbed  you disturb the f out of the water and the energy required for turbulence stops crystalization, think runnign water in out door line to stop freezing in winter (from creek/well sources)

yea, esp  if you dont want to appear as a super anonymous person
age is relative to the person perceiving it (chronologically aside; when i was young i felt old, now that i am older i feel young...)
yea valid points i do feel a lot of the younger crowd skips over these introductions,  and their own faults lead them to failures/unsuccessful attempts to wrangle crowd sourced info in a forum

if you go into your activity page, and choose the posted in function you can see if there has been a reply in the thread, regardless of whether they quoted you, or even was a response to oneof/your post.

You can find out with the fan specs. Ie: a 12v 1800 rpm fan will run at 1800 at 12v; if the spin up voltage is 2.66v then it won't start spinning till 2.66 or greater voltage is applied.   PWM uses this concept to adjust voltage input according to a specified input reading.  Without the 4th pin your fan will just run at what ever percentage you set it to run at (75%)...
 
The one you linked and the picture the last guy shared are both good. I used a similar one they work well; and are great if you are just looking to wire manage all the fan cables out of sight.

most  quality pasted perform in the 4-7 w/mk
yes it displaces the most heat, but it is also inherently riskier if you over apply. there are some things to consider beside the OBV no aluminum,   But that it does 'stain' a copper plate(block face) and if the chip runs hot enough it could make the copper 'absorb' it until the surfaces become  saturated.   i can only really think of two, conductonaut and Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra,
 
there might be other brands available in some places. but those two, Coollaboratory and Thermal Grizzly are the main suppliers that are mentioned

@freakyyyydo What woodenmarker says,     Yes you can, but Bios control wont work with 3 pin fans.
Use a Y split to run 2 fans off a single mobo plug (if using 3 pin)
 
that box you linked will work, but you wont get any control;100% always as wooden says.Unless its a manual control device like my 5.25 bay 6 channel fan controller.
 
you cannot set a custom fan curve for a 3 pin fan.  the 4th pin is what regulates the input voltage (for the curve)
 
If you dont care, using one of the boxes to power the extra fans,  although they are designed for 4 pin fans wave modulation there is no reason why you cannot use it as a simple fan hub.

thanks for the clarification.  been using the fan controller in my 5.25 for too long i guess, 
 
happy holidays

yeas thats exactly what i was describing, just never looked for a silverstone version.
 
when you use that thing,   you only have to set one curve in the bios, and any fan connected will run at that curve.

For putting 2 fans on a single MOBO spot that's good. But for more than 3 fans you should use something that gets alternate power from a different connector.  
 
Link the one you want to use 

more than likey you can easily put 1 splitter on each head where needed
 
The ONLY differnce between connecting to the MOBO headers and any alternate powering,  is (and there are work arounds)  are where the fan wires get power from.
 
(fans only require 2  wires to run black+red, Yellow is generally Speed reporting (rpm)  and blue is obv PWM  or more technically wave modulation (its the same as a rheostat). Main difference being that when you have a 4 pin fan connected to your mother board (or a workaround that i will get to)   you can in your bios or with other software set a custom curve of fan ramping to your own specification, which is nice if thats your thing.
when using a 4 pin splitter only one connector will be 4-4 the rest will be 4-3 (without rpm)   because of reasons i cant really explain but it causes fault reporting if you have multiple fans reporting rpm, even if both fans are the same.   In that respect in a 3 pin splitter, one is 3-3 and the rest are just supplied with +/- 
 
there are things that have a molex or sata power plug and a cord that you plug into one 4 pin header that way you can set a single curve for a single fan, and any fan connected to that header will run at that curve. 
 

ive used mx2, mx4, as3, as5, ceramique, thermal pad, ghraphite pad, LM , Kryonaut,  and probably more variety's that i cant remember, and i even usually give the mystery 1 use squeeze bags you get with some coolers to install it. and even though i've never seen it on the market here, the Zalman tubes i've got with coolers are decent paste. 
oh and the cermaique thermal epoxy, and i even messed with mixing excess paste into a epoxy resin before the catalyst and got ok results. (mind you this was with a lot older hardware era)

If its liquid metal on copper the copper will suck up the liquid metal.  He will have to reapply multiple times (temps will skyrocket) as this happens until the copper is basically unable to suck in any more liquid metal from what I understand

So my 5 cents,   start with the longer run's that way when you mess them up you can cut a section off and maybe use some of the bends already put in it for a shorter run in your loop
 
 
 
yea basically.  what he said

Well that's a rather stubborn approach. Personally I'd rather have whatever gives the best value, no point in sticking up for a soulless company.

Finished printing them all up and installing them today.  It took a few different versions to get the settings right.
 
I am happy with the tight groupings of wires, and the GPU ones are especially nice in my opinion.  Not sure what to do next, but I am thinking some kind of material being my printed pass through slots that will highlight the logos of the brands that I have used in my PC.  You can't see them all, but there are Corsair, ROG, Asus, EK, EVGA, and Intel logos covering the cables pass throughs.

I really hope you never need it, you'll face a harsh truth if you do, seen enough stories about it.
 
You really should, i don't know, watch some youtube videos on the subject or something? a Noctua NH-DL15 will outperform all these AiO you mentioned in cooling performance for overclocking, you seem highly biased against air cooling.
 
I am cooling an i9 9900K with a modest air cooler that by 1/3 of the price performs like 280mm AiO's.

cache speeds aside,   Focus on single core performance revolves around the fact that it is an 'intense' rendering test.   far more taxing than any real game would expect your computer to process for a fluid immersion.    And most games are optimized for single core thread performance,     Any thing beyond a quad core, hyper-threaded (or amd smt i think)  id not necessary if gaming is your most taxing event (even for hours)  unless you are gaming at 1440p, or 4k,  (60 or 120/144 hz)  with multiple things also happening at the same time.

Actually no, the kind of display adapters that go inside a PC are still technically a GPU and have onboard VRAM. They are just not designed for any significant compute tasks, a modern day variant would be an nvidia NVS.
 

almost like I was stating the obvious on purpose.

rip voodoo cards. Nvidia didn't even make SLI lol.

LOL i feel you Just thought i'd mention it...    maybe Radeon or VEGA,  since ATI is a branding more than make these days
what about the people that know history?  like when Nvidia was owned by ATI?  or 3dFX the real innovators of their day that basically led to gpu's for gaming as we know it.

mobo wants 120w, capacitor wastes 30w, and a dying capacitor wastes '60w'   (made up numbers)  and now the 180w pull on the 3/5v psu supply for the mobo has caused the psu to die before the mobo ultimately died too/along with a stressed psu
 
(theoretically)

save up and get a big upgrade as @Origami Cactus suggests

Because you currently already have a gtx 1070 i wouldn't consider any of those a real upgrade. You only get about 20% more fps with those. If your current gpu really isn't enough for games right now,then those will also be on a borderline. get a gtx1080ti or an rtx 2080.