FunKaLiTy

YES! I found the solution, I had to right click just a little further to the right from where I did in the Disk Manager ^^
 
When clicking in the big area where it said it was unallocated I had the option to give it a drive letter thus allocating it and now it's available for use again

The flash memory chips are usually the chips that have all the same shape and they're typically more square-ish and thicker (because they stack lots - 32, 48, 64, 96 layers of silicon dies).
 
The processor (ssd controller) is typically the chip closest to the sata or m.2 connector, because it makes sense - that's a high speed connection and you don't want those tiny traces to pick up interference from your pc as if they're radio antennas. However, that's not a rule. If the SSD has flash memory chips on both sides, the ssd controller may be placed in the center because this way they can make traces go on both sides of the chip AND go through the circuit board to the other side. 
 
Note that some ssd controllers have a DDR3 or DDR4 memory chip right by them (used for caching data and keeping track of where stuff goes in the flash memory chips) and sometimes this memory is stacked on top of the actual ssd controller or doesn't exist.
 
Anyway... in your particular case, I would first of all try to get some infrared temperature measurement tool ( like this Uni-t UT301A I own , or anything similar to this really )  or maybe get a digital multimeter with temperature measurement and a K-type probe to put on the actual chip surface.
 
Basically, measure the chips and see if the temperature is actually a concern.
 
I suspect the SSD controller will run at around 40-60 degrees celsius as long as you're not constantly writing to the flash memory chips (not doing long high speed file copies). When you're actually doing heavy stuff, it may go up to 70-80 degrees - the controller simply isn't that powerful and doesn't use so much power as to generate so much that it would need heatsinks, when under heavy load it can cool itself by radiating heat through the circuit board.
 
 
 
 

Thanks again for the feedback. I'll reconsider, re-evaluate and possibly rescind the change.
 
I first read these statements right after you posted it and spent some time thinking it over. One of the points that came to mind is in regards to lifespan, upgrading, adding and replacing parts. If I were to put off the TI for a few years, lets say, and buy the 2080() now. Eventually I'll likely end up with the TI and even at the reduced price have ended up paying the same as if I'd bought it now. ((2080($800) + deflated TI($800) = same$ in the end($1600)))

If you got some cash to spend I'd recommend this deal they have on Komplett now for a 5000 kr black friday discount.
https://www.komplett.no/product/11445/pc-nettbrett/komplett-pc/komplett-gamer-premium/komplett-gamer-premium-a180#
 
I'd at a minimum get a GTX 1060 6gb GPU to hope for it to last at least a little bit, the 1070 cards are pretty cheap now as well.

For a budget CPU you should get AMD Ryzen 5 2600 and overclock it meaning you need a cooler to go with it, alternatively a i5 8600k if you have a little more to spend.
Here is the cooler I'd recommend you buy now, they have a discount on Elkjøp (if you're norwegian, I see you are scandinavian from the currency in sales text).
https://www.elkjop.no/product/data/pc-komponenter/vifter-og-avkjoling-til-pc/CORH115IP/corsair-hydro-h115i-pro-vannkjoler-280-mm
 
But you also have this one as a cheaper option
https://www.komplett.no/product/953778/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/vifterkjoelingvannkjoeling/cpu-vannkjoeling/cooler-master-masterliquid-lite-240#
 
Or if you don't plan on overclocking I'd go with a Ryzen 5 2600x since it comes with a good enough stock cooler and performs decent enough without needing to overclock.
 
The good SSD's still aren't cheap, idk how picky you are, you probably don't wanna shell out over 1000 kroner for 500GB storage like I did, but maybe you wanna go for 120GB of high end storage to have Windows on and maybe 1 game you play that has a lot of loading screens in it.
And then get like a 1TB 7200 RPM HDD for storing everything else on.
 
For the motherboard it's important you check that it's compatible with the CPU you choose, you can plot everything in on pcpartpicker.com and it will tell you if something is incompatible or might not fit (case-wise).
 
For RAM you probably want something cheap so just go for 2400mhz, the difference is not really noticable they say so considering it's under half the price of the 3200mhz versions it's probably smart to just go for 2400mhz if you're not looking to spend too much money.
 
As for the power supply you're probably good with a 550W one, especially if you're not planning on overclocking.
 
Case-wise it depends on what you like, but of course airflow should be a consideration.
Of the ones available right now I'd go for this one, I wanted to get this one myself, but the RTX 2080 GPU wouldn't fit in there with a 240mm radiator in the front.
https://www.komplett.no/product/930966/datautstyr/pc-komponenter/kabinetterbarebone/midi-tower/fractal-design-define-c-temp-g#

I still need to do a bit more reading and researching, nothing set in stone here. Just plugged a few things in to the system builder as a foundation moving forward. Here's where I'm at right now. Budget seems fine although we might end up a touch over the 3k mark, which matters only in relativity to how far over that mark we go!
 
Nothing listed for memory, case, networking or optical as of yet. I'm sure we'll cross that bridge soon enough though!
 
Thanks again for your help. Really appreciate your efforts here!
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU Intel - Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $569.99 @ Newegg CPU Cooler Corsair - H150i PRO 47.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $129.99 @ Newegg Motherboard MSI - MAG Z390 TOMAHAWK ATX LGA1151 Motherboard $156.02 @ Newegg Business Storage Samsung - 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $116.99 @ Newegg Business Storage Samsung - 970 Evo 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $116.99 @ Newegg Business Video Card Asus - GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB Dual OC Video Card $1324.98 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair - RM 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $199.89 @ OutletPC Operating System Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $124.79 @ OutletPC   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total (before mail-in rebates) $2769.64   Mail-in rebates -$30.00   Total $2739.64   Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-24 16:07 EST-0500    

I bought waaay too much ^^
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/#9thxGX
 
+ a monitor for $350 and a keyboard for $70
 
In addition to that I spent about $1000 on various camping equipment

Yeah I've also heard a lot of praise regarding the i5 2600, so cheap and can easily be ovelocked to be just as good as the 2600x version.

If I were on somewhat of a tight budget I'd definitely go for that...no point buying anything worse really, I think it's worth spending the extra $50 or so to get a much more future proof cpu.
 
I'd probably get a cooler that's a bit bigger than the one you have tho, maybe a 240mm dual fan cooler so you can really boost that cpu clock up, as you say you need a powerful cpu to properly game with your friends.
 
There probably isn't any point getting anything faster than a 144hz monitor for those specs, you probably wont get full advantage out of that monitor anyways so maybe go for a 120hz that's cheaper....or even a 100hz if you really wanna save on it, but nothing lower.

I do hate stuff that pop up like that....which is why I never ever will buy a Norton product ever again, they pissed me off for years 15 or so years ago and I still haven't forgotten it
If I can buy a proper windows key for about $20 I feel it's very much worth it!
 
So I should install both SSD's on the motherboard right away and try booting from the one from my laptop??
That sounds very weird to me, but idk...also why would I clone it?
I thought I should just make it as clean as possible before merging it with the new one.
Maybe I should just forget about the Raid 0 thing then....I will primarily use it for gaming, but I want the most I can get out of my components tho! ? 

To be fair, an ultrasonic cleaner will definitely do a better job cleaning it as well. Those things are designed for cleaning up from liquid damage and will have the highest possibility of success. 
Hope to hear that it went well. And yes that ifixit toolkit is amazing!! I've used it to take apart countless desktops, laptops, iMacs, iPhones, even random household appliances. I personally think that a toolkit is never a mistake to purchase unless you never plan on opening or attempting a repair on anything. 
Welcome to the Forum btw, glad we could help.

Let me reassure you that you have done everything right up to this step. Shutting it down, unplugging everything and flipping it over to that the keyboard is allowing liquid to leave gives you the best chance at a recovery here. 
As for how to proceed, take a piece of cardboard, paper or tape, and a sharpie, and draw a giant box on it. Then as you disassemble the laptop, make smaller boxes and label where the screws came from, or if they are in a piece of plastic or metal (like a housing or heatsink), you may be able to leave them in holes on the part, and remove the part.
Pay careful attention as some of the screws from the same part may be different lengths. 
if possible, work over a hard floor, like wood or ceramic tile, that way IF you drop a screw, you hear it and it doesn't get lost in carpet. 
 
Now, for cleaning it. 
My suggestion is when cleaning parts like the motherboard, ports, memory or storage PCBs, use high concentration isopropyl alcohol and a SOFT BRISTLE toothbrush, for large plastic parts, water and a rag will be fine, but give it time to dry. 
 
If you have any questions, PLEASE ask. I have done a lot of cleaning and repair jobs. (including macbooks and phones.) I would be glad to help as much as I can. 

I would pour a small amount on the part, brush with the toothbrush, then rince with more iso Alcohol. 
if you need it to try faster, use a hairdryer on low heat to dry it off. 

If you're working on a wood or plastic table, you're fine. 
if not, put a big piece of cardboard down as that will act as an insulator.
This looks insanely useful. There's also a video of someone taking the entire back panel off, so I would follow that to get to that point, then use your link to continue. 
That kit is an amazing toolkit. I carry mine daily in my backpack. 
 
The anti Static wrist strap is something I would wear, and you clasp the other end to a grounded object. Typically the center screw on a wall outlet is where I'll connect the alligator clip if you're close enough. If not, you can clip it to any large metal object to ground yourself. 
 
Gloves are really personal preference if you ask me. I prefer to work without them as I can grip better, but again; personal preference.