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FunKaLiTy

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Everything posted by FunKaLiTy

  1. I only went with 9600k because all the 8+ core CPUs were sold out or drastically overpriced when I bought the parts for my PC. I remember hearing somewhere that high end game developers are developing games optimized for 8 cores/threads so it is kind of a shame I went with a 6 core non-hyperthreaded CPU, but I assume I'll upgrade to a 9900k in a couple years anyways so the i5 9600k was just to me something good to use in the meanwhile.
  2. YES! I found the solution, I had to right click just a little further to the right from where I did in the Disk Manager ^^ When clicking in the big area where it said it was unallocated I had the option to give it a drive letter thus allocating it and now it's available for use again
  3. I converted, checked, rebooted checked and seemingly nothing happened, but now it seems I can re-initialize the disk using the Acron True Image software. I could not do that before, don't remember exactly what happened when I did the "Add new disk" thing earlier, but since the first time I initialized it after having removed it and reinstalled it again I didn't get this initialize option anymore when doing the Add new disk thing with the Acron True Image, now I did as you can see in screenshot, which option should I choose? Last time I chose MBR layout
  4. Back to the good old paint copy pasting for screenshots made it possible It is in Norwegian tho ^^
  5. Ah I see now where you mean, but when i right click there the top 4 options are greyed out (none of them say format, they just say "New something volume"), my options are to either convert to dynamic disk or convert to GPT-disk, Disconnect or go into Properties.
  6. But as you can see it's not showing up under disk management
  7. Hi, once again I need your help Okay so I had some issues with my M.2 NVMe SSD after I did a clean wipe using the manufacturers software (Toshiba SSD Utility Tool), I could no longer boot from my other SSD which is the one I had installed Windows on. I believe this happened because Windows was stupid and chose to partition up my other SSD (not the one I installed Windows on) for it's MSR part or whatever you call it, so when I did a full wipe of what should have been an empty SSD Windows could no longer launch. (Reason I did the wipe was that I was getting a BSOD about half the time when booting up giving me an error I read up on how to remove, but could not remove using the described method...long story short) So I ended up doing a clean wipe of my other SSD as well and reinstalling Windows with only that SSD installed to the motherboard, it's now working fine without BSOD issues. However....of course there had to be more issues....when I reinstalled the Toshiba SSD on the motherboard it's not showing up under My Computer, meaning it's inaccessible and completely useless. I tried going to device management and uninstall the SSD, turn of computer, remove SSD from motherboard, reboot computer, turn it off again, reinstall the SSD, reboot, check for drivers, initialize the SSD using Acron True Image, but still it's not showing up The C drive is my other SSD (WD Black 500GB). Please anyone know what else I can try? Please check screenshot for some details
  8. I ended up cleaning out the SSD using the Command Prompt in the Windows Installation Media, "Diskpart", "Sel 0", "Clean". Then reinstalling Windows without having the 2nd SSD installed, hopefully it wont be a problem when I add the 2nd SSD tomorrow, for now the pc is busy at work installing some massive games Also I see Acronis True Image is recommended by ASUS, I assume it's the same thing as Gparted? Anyways doesn't seem like I need it, but maybe later who knows....don't really see a need to partition out my storage for my use tho.
  9. It sounds easy....but how do I download that and wtf is Rufus? ;(
  10. Please dude I'm not a computer engineer, this feels waaaaay too overcomplicated..... I decided to try to setup that GParted thing on my usb flash drive. I read Method A and click on the provided link....there are a bunch of links to a bunch of different softwares "Tuxboot helps you to create a bootable Live USB drive for Clonezilla live, DRBL live, GParted live and Tux2live. It is modified from UNetbootin and runs on both MS Windows and GNU/Linux. You can choose to download the latest version of Clonezilla live, DRBL live, or GParted live ISO/zip file then create the live USB." That sentence hurts my brain, it's just a bunch of softwares I've never heard of before and it says that I can choose to download the latest version of 3 different softwares and then create the live USB....I can....or I must? I read the "Requirements" and my OS is not on there....newest Windows OS there is Windows 7. Damn I give up...I see there is a "Download" link on the menu on the left there...I click there....it says I can download binary executable files....wtf is that?....binary?...binary to me means 01010101000011110010101....that tells me nothing... Dude....this seems way overcomplicated....wtf....is this really necessary?
  11. I don't really need to save any data, it's kinda annoying to delete all the games so I have to reinstall them, but that's just a minor annoyance I guess, of course I would prefer not having to do that, seems so...idk...stupid that it suddenly just stops working like that! GRRR! Why can't it just work like it's supposed to??? But why should I partition it up though? Seems sketchy using some random software to split up and erase stuff on my SSD..feels much more safe to use a Windows tool or maybe I make a bootable device thing from Western Digital as that is the manufacturer of the SSD that I have Windows installed on and use that instead.... But there really isn't any way I can force it to recognize the SSD as bootable within the BIOS? Seems so fucking stupid that it suddenly just stopped recognizing it....man this shits frustrating as hell Okay captain I'll know for next time, do you have a tip for how I fix my issue now tho? Should I format the drive that I've installed Windows and everything on as well and reinstall windows using the windows installation media or is there something else I should try first?
  12. Hi please I need some help here, I'm beyond frustrated at this point I've recently built my first pc and it went well...less than perfect, but I got to install Windows and a bunch of games and game on it for a while. However I did encounter some issues like the occasional blue screen with CPU Fan Error upon boot which I learned was due to using an AIO and sometimes getting that super annoying "error code 0xc00000e" which I've understood a lot of people are experiencing and not able to fix with the suggested fix since they're also getting "access denied" when attempting to "bootrec /fixboot" in the command prompt using a windows installation media. (it's the only fix I can find online and it's everywhere, but I read comments saying they have this same issue as me) I also had an annoyance regarding the pc making me have to select which volume of Windows I wanted to use every time I booted up, but I found a guide showing me how to make that actually remember my preferred volume so I wouldn't have to select it every time. But that made me think the "error code 0xc00000e" issue might have to do with the system still thinking there was an OS stored on my other SSD (I used one brand new one which I installed Windows on and an "old" one I salvaged from my Acer Predator Helios 500 laptop and formatted using the Windows Installation Software before installing Windows on my new SSD, both are M.2). So I went ahead and downloaded the Utility Tool from the manufacturer of that SSD (Toshiba) and used it to erase everything on that SSD (even tho I had already done that earlier with the Windows Installation software I read that it's recommended using a software from the manufacturer to completely erase everything). Here is when the real problem occurred because now my pc is not recognizing any of the drives as bootable devices! Not even the new SSD which I've installed Windows and a bunch of games on! This is where I've gotten beyond frustrated, they are showing up under the PCIe Storage Configuration menu in my BIOS, but not in the "BOOT" menu, however if I have a USB stick plugged in it is showing up. I've tried the automatic startup repair tool on the Windows Installation Media Software, it doesn't work. Should I use the Windows Installation Software from a USB stick I've made into a Windows Installation Media in order to format the SSD I've installed everything on and try to install Windows again or is there something else I should try first? Please help me here, I am getting so frustrated with this and I don't know what to do. Guess I could mention that I have tried swapping the M.2 slots as well as booting with only the SSD that has Windows installed on it, but still I'm just booting straight into the BIOS and it's not showing up as a bootable device. I have an ASUS motherboard btw.
  13. @mariushm Thanks for your reply, you seem to know a lot about this, just the type of guy I wanted to reach asking this question here! So is it the specific controller on my SSD you believe wont heat up or controllers in general on consumer SSDs? I'm asking because this SSD has one of the fastest read/write speeds I could find so if that doesn't qualify for it needing a heatsink, but most new motherboards come with a heatsink, then what does? ^^
  14. So I just learned that SSD's actually prefer writing on higher temperatures so built-in heatsinks for the m.2 slot(s) on your motherboard may actually be detrimental to your SSD and can reduce it's lifespan by as much as 50%! However it may be beneficial to cool specifically the controller part of your SSD so it is recommended you trim down the thermal pad on your heatsink so it only covers the controller part of your m.2 SSD card. So what I wanna ask is how do i recognize the controller part of an m.2 SSD? Specifically I'm interested in knowing what part of this SSD is the controller: https://www.wd.com/products/internal-ssd/wd-black-nvme-ssd.html#WDS500G2X0C But would be good to learn in general how to recognize the controller part of an SSD, not just for me, but also for anyone else who might read this thread. Source of my newfound knowledge:
  15. Oh I didn't notice you had replied and changed some specs when I wrote that last reply of mine, now your build is starting to look a lot like mine ^^ My budget was about $2000, I ended up going a little bit over due to monitor and keyboard. I went for the 2080 too, but there is a huge increase in specs from the 2080 to 2080 ti, if I could afford it I'd go for the ti version for sure. Especially if you want to properly take advantage of the new tech such as ray tracing I think you want the 2080 ti otherwise the performance loss might be too great to be worth enabling it. DLSS is also pretty damn exciting and the new shading technique making shadow details less straining on your GPU leaving more left over to process other details. I understand you don't feel the need for i9 9900k, I didn't either, but I just thought since you had such a high budget then why not ^^ I'll probably upgrade to an i9 9900k in a couple years, but for now I went for a much more budget CPU, the i5 9600k, I would've gone for the 8700k even tho it cost $150 more if only the shops here had it in storage. Every computer store, online and otherwise, are sold out and not expecting it until like 12th of December, I didn't want to wait
  16. Btw you probably want to add another set of fans on your radiator if you're running a 360mm one because such a big radiator creates a higher resistance thus the fans need some more help to push/pull the air through it efficiently. You probably don't need anything bigger than 240mm which would mean you can do with 2x 120mm fans mounted in a push configuration. (Meaning they are closest to the case) Bigger radiators should be set in a push/pull configuration where you have fans on both sides, honestly I don't believe you need that much cooling, but the i9 9900k is known to go extremely hot so you might as well do it I guess, of course as long as you have enough room in your case. Fans usually add 25mm thickness, but same as with the radiator you should always check your specific one just to be sure. I believe all the cases I mentioned would support most radiators with push/pull configuration, but I definitely recommend you read up on the thickness of your radiator and the additional fans and add those numbers to the length of your GPU then see if that number is lower than the maximum graphic card clearance on the case you want to use.
  17. Sounds good, you're on your way to building an absolute gaming beast which should be a true performer for many years to come so there is no doubt you'll be happy once you fire up some games with this The monitor must be up to the task tho, if you have a 60hz monitor you wont really see the performance you're paying for in this pc, you should have at least a 144hz 1440p monitor, I'd go for 165hz or higher unless you want 4k, but then you need to increase that budget to 4k ? You could go for a 200+hz 1080p screen if you want that instead, but with these kinds of specs it really would be a shame to no take advantage of it with a 1440p monitor. Good luck hunting btw and cheers
  18. Yeah I edited my reply there regarding the RAM, better to go with 2x 16GB for sure! Those error messages you get there regarding the SATA slots is because you have 2 m.2 SSDs added which take up a total of 3 SATA connections, your motherboard has 6 SATA connections tho so you'll still have room for potentially 3 more 2,5" SSDs, that could mean pleeeenty of space!
  19. To save on some stuff I'd probably try to find a little bit cheaper RAM even tho the one you found is a good price for 32GB of 3200mhz RAM, maybe see what you can find at 3000mhz, the difference is not noticable at all. Also you'll probably do just as fine with a slightly smaller PSU, 850W will probably be enough for some very good overclocking potential anyways. You could also opt for a smaller 250GB high speed SSD to have Windows and a couple games that has a lot of loading screens on it and get like a 2.5" 1TB SSD that is a bit cheaper, maybe something with about 2000/1000 mbs read/write speed instead, should save a few bucks on that and you wont notice any difference. You also don't need a network adapter with that motherboard, it already has one built in Even if you go for the $50 cheaper Gigabyte Z390 Aorus Elite which is another great place to save some bucks without really losing any performance. And of course you should rather buy a Windows 10 key online and make your own windows boot device on a USB stick, you could save over $100 doing that.
  20. Nice what kind of monitor do you have? Also you probably don't need 1000W PSU, 850W will likely be enough for you to still be able to OC a lot, 80+ gold certified is certainly a good indicator tho You don't really need an optical drive tho do you? Been many years since last time I needed an optical drive and then I actually didn't need it either, could just download the game and enter the cd-key that came with the case An optical drive can inhibit airflow in your case and also narrow in your choice of cases. For a case that to go with these components I'd go for one of these: - "be quiet! Dark Base 900" - The sneaky giant - "Cooler Master MasterCase H500M" - The RGB flowmastah - "Fractal Design Define R6" - The one I bought (Got a great Black Friday deal on it! ) If you don't mind skipping the optical drive then these are also really great cases: - "be quiet! Dark Base 700" - The silent performer - "Corsair 500D RGB SE" - The sleak and cool looker - "Riotoro CR500 TG" - The budget friendly performer These should all have great airflow and I also belive they will all fit your graphic card with that cooler. Btw I'd go with a triple fan GPU, I think it's worth the extra $50-$100 to make sure your card stays nice and cool. I know MSI RTX 2080 ti Gaming X TRIO, Asus ROG Strix RTX 2080 ti and Zotac Gaming RTX 2080 ti AMP! are among the cards with 3 fans
  21. Yeah I feel I learn a lot from watching those thorough reviews such as the 2nd video I added there from Gamer's Nexus. Apparently for the i9 9900k it's important to have a really strong VRM in order to achieve a stable overclock and the Gigabyte Aorus series seem to have the best VRM so I'd definitely go for that, especially since the cheapest one is only about $180. As for a monitor you should get something really good with a pc like this in order to properly take advantage out of your components. I'd look for at least a 165hz 1440p with g-sync, preferably an IPS screen, but TN and VA works too, they just don't have as good contrast and much worse viewing angles (but you're mostly gonna play alone anyways I guess so you'll sit in front of the screen). Preferably I'd go for like a 120hz 4k screen with g-sync, but that is crazy expensive!
  22. Yeah those links I added was to the OP since he is at least scandinavian, I thought he might be norwegian like me and I have recently been doing a lot of research in this market as I've ordered a complete build myself. Yeah i9 9900k The 1TB from Samsung also works of course, it's even better if you get the 970 Pro version, but it's crazy expensive tho! If you get 2 1TB 970 Pro m.2 SSD's and set them in Raid 0 you'll be the envy of most people on here. Especially with the RTX 2080 ti and the i9 9900k as well! ^^ For an AIO 360mm liquid cooler it seems the Corsair H150i is a clear favorite yeah, but if you want to go for a slightly shorter 280mm one, some cases for example only support 280mm top mounted radiators (although you probably wanna mount it in front), the Kraken NZXT 62 has gotten a lot of praise as well. If you want a smaller midi case and thus need a 240mm radiator to fit then the Corsair H115i PRO should be a great choice! Picking out a case is kinda important to consider the size, not only does it have to be a size you can fit under your desk,but it also has to be big enough to support all your components as well as to make it less of a pain in the ass to work with. When you are looking at cases you need to check how big of a graphic card it supports, that number is with just fans so you need to deduct the thickness of your radiator (usually 25mm, but check to be sure) for example if it says your case supports a graphic card of up to 315mm and you plan to use a 25mm thick radiator in it then your graphic card can not be longer than 290mm. For RAM I'd go with 3200mhz since you have such a big budget anyways, for the PSU you should probably look what's available and check reviews, some can be poorly built making it noisy and hot. As for the motherboard you might as well go for a high end one, here are a couple nice videos going through some of the better ones. The Gigabyte Aorus series seems like a great choice! Elite seems good enough and it's under $200.
  23. I bought waaay too much ^^ https://pcpartpicker.com/list/#9thxGX + a monitor for $350 and a keyboard for $70 In addition to that I spent about $1000 on various camping equipment
  24. Well with a budget like that you're not really limited at all, you can go for the top of the line RTX 2080 ti, i9 900k and 32 GB of RAM with 2x 500GB of Samsung EVO 970 in Raid 0 a decent motherboard with built in wi-fi adapter a great AIO 360mm liquid cooler, 1000W PSU and a nice case. You'll have the most kickass computer in the neighbourhood! ^^
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