captain_cereal_hands

https://www.neowin.net/news/intel-finally-responds-to-bending-12th-gen-alder-lake-cpus-on-lga1700-motherboards/

If things work out I kinda wanna be on this mobo/cpu till like 2030. I know that seems like a long time but I think it has the performance to last me that long. LIke I said I'm just worried about long term damage. So you think everything will be fine if I use the LGA 1700 bracket?

I did the bottom are intake top exhaust and side push/pull is intake. That picture is before changed them to intake.

So I care less about noise than I do performance. This case has mounts for 2 PSU's I would put the PSU in the bottom one and the dual 80mm fans in the top slot above it. As far as OC'ing CPU I've not really tried much I think I got 4.2 stable. Dust has become a problem so I wanna make sure pressure stays positive in the whole thing. 

Hi This is a funny timing Like a week ago I bought the Lian Li 011 Dynamic. I wanted to use my NH-D15 but yeah it doesn't fit. I do also happen to have am H150i Just like they do from corsair but I kinda wanna go back to my air cooler. The clearance issue with the d15 is about 5mm could I just remove those metal points on the top and move the fans down to be flush with the radiator. Also I will be using Noctua 3000rpm 120's and I'am gonna force mount dual Noctua 80MM on the back mobo side.
 
The only thing I can't figure out is the fan setup I want really positive pressure I have dust problems.
 
I'm looking for advice on the fan setup. Also on if that Noctua idea would work?

TVs are extremely complicated and they never name the image settings properly.
There are no shortcuts, either learn exactly what all the settings do, ore hire a TV calibrater.

colorimeter
For PC use its relatively easy, though will require you to spend some money, thankfully what u spend will be useful for all displays u own.
 
You will want to buy a colorimeter, like a X-rite i1 Display Pro or DataColor SpyderX Pro. They should be in the region of $100 to $200.
 
Once u have it u should use the freeware DisplayCAL software , not the included manufacturer software, and then calibrate the TV using ur PC. The software will create a ICC profile for the Display, that profile is part of the Windows OS. There are plenty of tutorials online on how to use the software. It isnt hard, its automatic for the most part, takes about 30minutes if u use the faster X-Rite colorimeter.
 
 
 
 

Is there such a thing as too big in terms of case with respect to the parts you have? Like I have a 750D Airflow edition and I've been thinking of changing to something a little smaller. I have an unnecessary amount of fans (11 in total). I think I should down size.
This is my part list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/K6Q4Dx
I don't run SLI or even custom water cooling.
 
So is there such a thing as too big when it comes to case size?

First of all to note when I did that test it was like an hour after reading that first post so I had forgotten about the CPUZ part which I at the time didn't even have downloaded. I cropped the image cause there was nothing else even loaded. Now cause I guess more information is always better here is both programs. Still to note I haven't OC'ed anything but I think I'm gonna do a fresh install and OC it plus it might finally get rid of my software problem. 

So I haven't OC'ed anything yet. One of my devices is still having issues I can't figure out but here are my CineBench numbers. Also I'm running Windows 10 Pro not Windows 8.

 
I mean for stock settings it could be worse. This is my full build if your curious...
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Z6YBzY

4.3Ghz at 1.35V I could be okay with that.