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PizzaTacoCat

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  1. PizzaTacoCat
    I do have 2 different names for them. My phone won't connect to the 2.4 ghz even though it finds the network. It will only connect to the 5 Ghz even though my phone specs say it supports both. Seems like a lot of these smart home devices need to connect to wifi through your phone which has been a problem. I know Xifity has it setup to try and auto select the best band which may confuse some devices. Wondering if buying a third party router and modem could fix this because other people have had similar issues with the XB6 gateway even though we are using XB7.
  2. PizzaTacoCat
    Hi, we have always had trouble connecting any home devices that only uses 2.4ghz wifi to our network. Particularly our nanoleafs and roborock S8 vaccuum. It takes like 100 tries before we can get it to connect and even then it's sometimes a buggy experience. We are using the default Xfinity router which has been fine and realiable for everything else in our apartment but I don't know how to make something just try to connect to the 2.4 ghz network. Today our roborock lost connection and I can't get it back online. I tried splitting our 2.4 and 5ghz signals to separate wifis and it won't connect to the 2.4. seems like it wants to do it through my phone which will only accept the 5 ghz network. Even though I would consider myself very knowledgeable about computers my knowledge of all things Internet is very limited. Is there something special I need to do or is this just a limitations of the Xfinity router? The home devices are in the same room as the router.
  3. PizzaTacoCat
    How do I know that it will have enough bandwidth to support all of my USB devices?
  4. PizzaTacoCat
    Currently I switch between using my work laptop which is plugged into a docking station and my home desktop. Every time I want to change computers I have to unplug all my USB's and Ethernet from my docking station, crawl under my desk, and plug it into my desktop. I would really like a solution to fix this. All of my video cable don't need to be switched since I have everything hooked up via HDMI for my laptop and Display Port for my desktop. I currently have 5 USB's and an ethernet I swap between PC's. My new monitor supports 2 USB inputs so I could potentially go down to only needing to switch 4 USB's and an ethernet but I don't know of any good switches that would make it so I no longer need to unplug everything. Current USB devices include Logitech C9 series 1080p webcam, Razer viper ultimate mouse, Akko Mod 004 keyboard, Moto M2 2X2 preamp, and a Schiit Modius DAC. I use my home computer for gaming. Does anyone have recommendation on what I need to solve this problem? I'm about to upgrade my PC to an i7 13700K, MSI MPG Z690 Carbon wifi Motherboard, 5600 DDR 5 ram, 3080 GPU, 2 NVME SSDs, and a 1000w power supply. My download speed is only about 6-800 mb and there is no plan to go to Gigabit. Based on ports location and available I believe I am using this docking station for my work computer https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkPad-Docking-Station-Adapter/dp/B07B63BD78/ref=sr_1_26?crid=3PPN0DJKF3HBC&keywords=Lenovo+docking+station&qid=1674147000&s=electronics&sprefix=lenovo+docking+station%2Celectronics%2C100&sr=1-26&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840
  5. PizzaTacoCat
    I have a monitor that I was using via display port but the cable sucks. No matter how much I try and squeeze the release trigger it just does not want go in. I don't want to break my monitor but I don't see any other way to remove it. I tried to use plyers to get more leverage but they are too thick on one side because the cord plugs into the monitor from underneath and not straight out the back. Can anyone recommend a tool or solution to remove this cord? I've potentially already killed one monitor I upgraded and had a difficult time removing the same brand of cord. But since it was an upgrade I don't know if it still works. I will put a link to the cable below so you can avoid buying it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TTQ306M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  6. PizzaTacoCat
    Hi, I recently changed out my Corsair HD fans for the new Lian-Li Uni SL120 fans as the HD fans were too flashy and the RGB stopped syncing. The problem I have with the new fans is that their minimum RPM is 800 which is way too high for my build. I'm using the O11 XL case with 3 intake on the bottom, 3 intake on the side, and 3 output at the top through my 360 radiator. With this setup I'm going to have high pressure unless I double the RPM of the output fans. Doubling the RPM of the output fans alone is enough to cool my PC when gaming at a peak of 65 C. With all fans set to 800rpm my CPU temp is at 30 C which makes me think dropping the RPM of the 6 intake would make everything quieter and stop the pressure issue without effecting temps much. I'm willing to sacrifice 10 degrees for quieter basic use. Does anyone know a way I can drop the RPM of the 6 intake fans below 800 rpm and then be able to raise them back up when I start gaming?
  7. PizzaTacoCat
    Not recently. All I changed was to not monitor the CPU fan header because I have no 4-pin fan plugged into it. The new fan system only uses one 4 pin header with just the PWM pin. I did plug it into the CPU fan header to try and prevent the mobo from thinking it was an issue but still caused an error when I booted up so I disabled monitoring for it in the bios which solved that issue. I also changed the CPU fan header mode in the bios from Auto to PWM because that is what's required to be able to use motherboard software to control the fan curves. I didn't end up getting that to work so I still need to mess with it. Technically they recommend using a case fan header but said CPU fan header was okay if you were using an AIO. I did once try and overclock my CPU at one point but I didn't end up getting it to work and I don't really know what I'm doing so I set it back to default. I can't remember if it was when I tried that or when I switched ram from 3000 mhz to 3200 but I have been getting this sound like something is being unplugged every time I boot up and login and I don't know why. Either way, the booth loop thing didn't start until I rebuilt it in a new case yesterday.
  8. PizzaTacoCat
    Good Afternoon, I recently rebuilt my PC in a new case with new fans. I switched from 6 Corsair's HD fans to 9 Lian Li's Uni SL 120 fans. After the rebuild when I power my PC on it starts up, after a second or 2 it shuts off, and then boots normally. Could someone please advise what could be the problem and what I could try to fix it? Specs: i7 8700K Asus Maximus Hero X Wifi Gigabyte RTX 3080 16 GB of 3200 speed ram with 2 dummy sticks for aesthetics 750 Watt power supply 500 GB NVME SSD boot drive 250 GB SSD 1 TB HDD 2 TB HDD Castle 360 AIO cooler Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL case
  9. PizzaTacoCat
    I'm currently running an i5 8600K and a GTX 1070 to stream games like apex legends. I'm planning to upgrade my pc and was wondering if you think getting a 3080 or maybe even a 3070 would be enough to get me ultra 1080p at 144hz and be able to stream without my frames dropping everytime chat starts a poll or uses an animated emote. Or do you think I need to replace both my GPU and CPU. Currently getting an average of 125 fps in Apex. My thoughts are that the massive increase in FPS and better nvenc encoding would overcome a cpu bottleneck. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.
  10. PizzaTacoCat
    I'm currently running an i5 8600K and a GTX 1070 to stream games like apex legends. I'm planning to upgrade my pc and was wondering if you think getting a 3080 or maybe even a 3070 would be enough to get me ultra 1080p at 144hz and be able to stream without my frames dropping everytime chat starts a poll or uses an animated emote. Or do you think I need to replace both my GPU and CPU. Currently getting an average of 125 fps in Apex. My thoughts are that the massive increase in FPS and better nvenc encoding would overcome a cpu bottleneck. Any thoughts or opinions are welcome.
  11. PizzaTacoCat
    I'm having an issue where a PC is randomly restarting on its own now none of my USB's are working or even getting power (RGB's aren't turning on). Does anyone have any ideas on what could be wrong or what I could try to fix it? The restarts started while playing Apex the game froze and then the PC restarted on its own. No blue screen or anything. Then it happened again just trying to change an audio setting in Golf With Friends. I verified the game files on both games but now the PC started restarting just from the desktop alone. Motherboard LED's are on so the board must have some kind of Power. Now I can't even get video to my monitors when I try to turn my PC on. PC is relatively new with a GTX 1070 and an i5 9600K which is air cooled. Please help!
  12. PizzaTacoCat
    I really appreciate that link it makes things really easy. The main reason I was thinking 4.7 was that I want my computer to stay quiet at idle and decently quiet when gaming. To be honest other than gaming I don't really do anything that would stress the CPU much. Do you think pushing the CPU to 5GHz increase the noise by much when compared to 4.7? And if you had to guess what core voltage would you think I should try to keep it at 4.7 versus 5.0?
  13. PizzaTacoCat
    What setting should I change to adaptive?
  14. PizzaTacoCat
    Today I replaced my 2 8GB sticks of 3000 mhz ram with 2 8GB sticks of ram at 3200mhz (RGB related). In the bios I set the ram as 3200mhz and enabled the XMP profile for it. I also changed my i7 8700K from sync all cores to sync all cores at 4.7 MHz (which is the boost clock). I'm cooling my CPU with a 360 radiator and in ASUS AI Suite 3 it shows an average CPU temp of 40 C with a CPU Core Voltage of around 1.40. CPU system agent is 1.144 and DRAM voltage is 1.344. I don't really know anything about overclocking but was hoping I could easily boost my CPU to run at 4.7 all the time. Is it safe to run my computer the way it is now or at this voltage? Should I be using something different to monitor this information? Is there a free software I can use to stress test my CPU so I can make sure its stable?
  15. PizzaTacoCat
    I would really like it to sync with everything else and I heard the Gskill software has performance issues or is buggy
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