NickPickerWI

For perspective, if you can afford me a brief tangent...this is a small business in healthcare. I get why he's looking for what he's looking for. There isn't money available for this, dude can't even pay himself and lives on-site. I've seen the inside baseball, the numbers, and...I'll never work in healthcare, I'll just say that much.
 
On the other side of the token, I realize the unlikeliness of something existing in his price range and being stupid simple, simply because that's what he can afford and manage himself. I know it doesn't work like that.
 
The monthly fees I understand and have explained - the communication to an outside system for data collection requires wireless data. He was originally looking at units with WiFi systems, and I explained that the cell phone would need to be in range to speak to it. I also explained to him why he needs offsite storage. Again, tech savvy he is not.
 
Anyway, I can look into fleet management systems for him (to a point, he will eventually need to take control).
 
Thanks for the heads-up.

Ok so I totally forgot and then randomly looked at my rig and remembered.
So here ya go.
This is green fluid, random brand it's UV reactive.
All pics have the UV on in the background.
 
Pictures never come out true to form, I normally run solid blue with the green fluid and it looks killer, so does it with RGB off.
 
White looks cool but the red is just blah, if I were to tone down the brightness of the RGB the red still overpowers the green.
 
The last one with UV only is a PITA to get an accurate pic, the UV really saturates the camera and I'm not too knowledgeable on all the fancy settings to get it right, but it's relatively accurate.
 

An NH-D15 outperforms many 240mm AIO coolers. Something is wrong.
 
I would take the cooler off, make sure you took the sticker off the bottom of it. Look at the way the thermal paste spread - if it isn't covering the whole CPU, not enough was put on. Clean off the thermal paste from the cooler and the CPU using a coffee filter and isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry, add a pea-sized blob of new thermal paste to the CPU, and reinstall the cooler. Make sure you tighten the screws holding the cooler down in a cross pattern, and tighten them until the screws won't turn - they are designed to be completely seated. Make sure the fan on the cooler is installed so it will blow in the right direction (usually towards the back of the case) - the sticker and the fan's housing with the cross-bracing should be facing the back of the case, the face of the fan with no bracing and completely exposed fan blades should face towards the front.
 
Turn the PC on, and make sure the fan on the cooler spins. Go into BIOS, and set the CPU fan curve to 100% all the time. Set your case fans to 100% all the time. Enter Windows, and see how your temperatures are.
 
If this doesn't work, double-check with different reporting software to make sure the software you're using isn't bugged.
 
If that doesn't work, get some cheap case fans to fill out the case, and set those to 100% as well in the BIOS.
 
If that doesn't work...something might be wrong with that chip.

Oh damn yeah 🤦‍♂️ it's only got support for a 240mm fan in the top I'm dumb 😂 750x and 750i are the same right? I only wrote the 750i as that was the one which was in stock on scan for me. 
 
I really like the Z series kraken aios but that's just for the gimmick of having the lcd display showing thermals/gifs etc. Is the h115i or h150i the better corsair aio? 
 
Is there a good nzxt case that's similar to what you mentioned? Or would you suggest going for the 4000x? 
 
Would I be best getting an MSi mobo as I have an MSi GPu to cut down on required  software? 
 
Thanks for your help by the way! 😊 

Seems like a pretty solid build.
 
Some stuff to think about:
 
You may want to switch to a Corsair AIO. I don't think you want both Corsair's and NZXT's RGB software running at the same time.
 
The power supply doesn't need to be the 750i, you could go with the 750x unless you need Corsair Link.
 
And the case only has support for a 280mm AIO in the front, where your fancy ARGB fans are. You can't install that AIO up top, so you're losing one of the major points of buying that case. Again, with an eye for compatibility, you might want to consider a Corsair RGB case instead, like the 4000x. It has a lighting node included for managing fan RGB, and includes three RGB 120mm fans. With a 280mm AIO from Corsair (the H115i Platinum RGB, which is also a 280mm AIO), you have all of the fans you can put into the case, they're all RGB, and how many programs you have running to control RGB components is limited.
 
You'll probably still need other RGB software to do the RGB on the motherboard and graphics card, but both NZXT CAM and Corsair iCue are pretty resource-intensive to run. Best to choose one imo.
 
In that vein, you could also keep the Z63, and get an NZXT case with integrated RGB and fans. Just make sure you have somewhere to put the AIO where it doesn't take away a feature you're paying for.

Here's a quick list:
 
PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor $179.99 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $109.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory $75.99 @ Newegg Storage Crucial MX500 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $62.99 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda Compute 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $54.99 @ Newegg Video Card MSI GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card $719.99 @ Newegg Case Thermaltake Versa H18 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $60.98 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic FOCUS Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $88.56 @ Amazon Case Fan be quiet! 38.5 CFM 120 mm Fan $17.50 @ Amazon Case Fan be quiet! 49.8 CFM 140 mm Fan $16.89 @ Amazon Case Fan be quiet! 49.8 CFM 140 mm Fan $16.89 @ Amazon Case Fan be quiet! 49.8 CFM 140 mm Fan $16.89 @ Amazon   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $1421.65   Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-18 21:02 EDT-0400   Add in tax and a 3 to 1 PWM fan cable splitter, and your cost comes in at about $1525.

I got sad for a sec but then I saw the replies,  gonna switch the bottom fan off for now so I can get exhaust. I just ordered a fan splitter now that I know its safe 

GOOD NEWS I GOT INTO WINDOWS 

dont be my guy you are a big help already i cant put my old cpu in cause its 2nd gen ryzen my new board is for 3rd gen

Apparently MSi sells those RGB fans separately.
Same model number on the sticker, and physically look the same.
https://global.microless.com/product/msi-rainbow-fan-pack-3x-120mm-rgb-fans-with-rgb-controller-306-7g09f02-w57/
 

 
They are rated for 12VDC, 0.15A.
If the fan header is 1.0A, you can connect up to 6 of these fans to one header.
 
Yes, you will be safe with a 3-to-1 or 4-to-1 fan splitter.
 
@NickPickerWI @josh the jang @minibois

It sounds like it's stuck in a boot loop.
 
Check to make sure all the connectors on your motherboard (24 pin, 8 pin) are plugged in all the way.
 
Check your RAM. Make sure it's in the right slots for your motherboard. Pull it out and push it back in. If that doesn't help, try one stick at a time if you have multiple sticks.
 
If that doesn't help, pull your graphics card out and put it back in.
 
If that doesn't help, pull the CPU out and put it back in.
 
If that doesn't help, put your CPU, RAM, and graphics card onto your old motherboard on the new motherboard's box. Plug in your drives and the fans, and see if it works.
 
If it does, the motherboard might be bad. If it doesn't, you might have toasted one of your components.

http://www.vgamuseum.info/index.php/cpu/item/722-hp-visualize-fx10-nt-a1264-66502
 
it is a PCI graphics acceleration card from HP workstations. it's like a pre-pre quatro card with 2 GPUs and 2 "co-processor" like chips which handled memory controlling if I remember correctly

Before they do this, OP should look at the back of the fans to make sure they, together, don't draw more than what the connector can provide, which is 1 amp.
 
Otherwise, they will have zero fan headers on the board.

Unless I read this post incorrectly, there will be more than two fans connecting to the header. He's trying to connect two plugs, not two fans.
 
It sounds and looks like the front three fans are already on a 3-1 splitter, and the back fan is standalone. All four need to feed from that header.
 
That said, it is entirely possible that (cheaper, older, etc.) fans can draw more than .25A per fan.

if it was stuck in post cycle it would still spin the fans for a second as it charges the caps and starts the post sequence. RAM does the same thing, small blip of power and you'll hear things try to start before failing.

Wiring the cig lighter is easy, just grab a 12v line and a ground and throw a fuse in there for good measure and you're good to go. For buying one Autozone carries the cig plug to wire in they call it like a 12v accessory outlet or something. For the actual cig lighter you're gonna need ebay or a junkyard.
For painting fans i have the EK vardar fans in my build and i pulled them apart quite easily and painted them and put it all back together with no issues they have been running great for about 3 years now.

Me, too! I'm stoked, it's a great idea, and it will look excellent. I'll be sure to post up some pictures once it's finished.
 
My client's PC is a welcome project to scratch the itch, but without the intensity of my personal mod project. I'm burnt out on it, just spent seven weeks modeling my case and components in 3D, and I'm not done 😞

I reckon something like the older non-LED Corsair SP120/AF120 might work well...you could detach the fan rings for them and spray them using a high-reflection chrome paint. I don't know if the rest of the fan comes apart for painting but you could try something like a plastic dye.
 
FYI, you can separate the NF-P12 Redux and possibly the NF-A12x25 from the fan hub without damaging them. I know in the case of the former as I've painted six of them black now.

If you don't need a PC right now, I would wait. New CPU's and GPU's are coming before the end of the year. Either the new parts will be excellent, and you'll spend better money there, and/or the existing parts might get cheaper.
 
What you want to buy depends on what you want to do with your PC, as well as your budget. We won't know what the best is for your budget until the new parts come out.
 
What you want to do = only gaming? Gaming and other stuff sometimes? Rendering and 3D work? Workstation stuff? Streaming and gaming? Video editing? Photoshop/photo work? etc.
 
If you can wait, I would wait, and see what reviewers have to say about the new parts.
 
Otherwise, we need a budget and what you want to do in order to answer your question.

I upgraded from a Razer Kraken 7.1 v2 to a Corsair Virtuoso RGB headset.
 
The sound difference is...I can't explain it properly. The Corsair sounds cheap, airy. It's got almost no bass, and the mids sound like a trebly mess.
 
In Modern Warfare, it sounds like I'm listening on the old spring metal $3 headphones that came with Walkmans...Walkmen? Walkman's?
 
...you get what I'm saying, though. I hope.

This power supply has enough juice, and this would get you by, but I sure wouldn't trust it long term.

I have sausage fingers, big fat hands.
 
One thing I've been doing as of late is installing the cooler last, so I can have easy access to the motherboard plugs, and I do all of my cable management before I plop the cooler on. It only took me about 30 builds before I realized a smarter build order.
 
If a case doesn't have a rear opening in the motherboard tray to allow for this, I do one of these things:
 
-Install just the parts of the cooler that will hold the backplate to the motherboard when it's on the bench. Choosing a Noctua, BeQuiet!, or other major brand will give me this.
-Cut a hole in the motherboard tray, and use black enamel nail polish on the edges after filing them down.
-If there's a way to get at tape after I'm done, tape the backplate to the back of the motherboard (I don't like doing this if I don't have to).
-Get a different case, and save myself the headache.
 
I hope this helps you in your future endeavors.

Same response as...Chris Pratt...
 
You'll likely see a downgrade to gaming performance, but if the programs you use for content creation favor more cores and threads, you'll see a major upgrade here. If these programs favor clock speed, it would likely be a downgrade.
 
My recommendation would be a 3600 if you need it now (they're dirty cheap) or to wait for the 4000 series, and see what it offers after review media has had a chance to beat on them for a bit.