NickPickerWI

For perspective, if you can afford me a brief tangent...this is a small business in healthcare. I get why he's looking for what he's looking for. There isn't money available for this, dude can't even pay himself and lives on-site. I've seen the inside baseball, the numbers, and...I'll never work in healthcare, I'll just say that much. On the other side of the token, I realize the unlikeliness of something existing in his price range and being stupid simple, simply because that's what he can afford and manage himself. I know it doesn't work like that. The monthly fees I understand and have explained - the communication to an outside system for data collection requires wireless data. He was originally looking at units with WiFi systems, and I explained that the cell phone would need to be in range to speak to it. I also explained to him why he needs offsite storage. Again, tech savvy he is not. Anyway, I can look into fleet management systems for him (to a point, he will eventually need to take control). Thanks for the heads-up.

Asking for a friend who owns a business. I know jack diddly about dash cams, but he has an issue with employee behavior he needs to squash (his company transports nonverbal disabled clients). He has multiple vehicles in his fleet. He is looking for a set of dash cameras that are also driver monitors: -Record outside and inside the cabin -Record speeds, possibly record speeds after a speed threshold is exceeded -Viewable live from a phone application, including speed -Switchable between different vehicles within the app -Wake-up recording when something happens and the vehicle is parked -Something that preferrably records data offsite, so cameras can't be tampered with -Something that's maintenanceless and easy to set up, because tech savvy this person is not Does anyone have any good options? He wants to spend about $100 per unit, but I think that might be unrealistic. Personally I would spend more good money once than less bad money several times, and I plan on having that discussion if my suspicions are correct. Thanks in advance for whatever you can point me to.

Just so you are aware, 100 decibels is the volume of a motorcycle with loud pipes, like a Harley Davidson, while you are sitting on it. Or a snowmobile, while you are sitting on it. Or a fighter jet taking off 300 meters from you, or flying 1000 meters above your head. Like others have said, your measurements are bad, there is no way your laptop is producing 100 decibels at listening distance. The speakers would crap their pants and blow their cones, or coils, or both. They aren't big enough to do 100 decibels at listening distance. An app on a phone to do decibel measurements with its microphone is like a ring with magnets and copper dust in it that's going to fix your arthritis.

I will find out how long it needs to be once I have the SFX power supply in hand. I realize that I can get "some cables" from elsewhere. However, I can only get THIS cable, that matches the rest of the set I already purchased, from CableMod.

Ahhh, did not realize this. That's a bummer. Thanks for the clarification.

I had not purchased an extension cable yet, and now I don't need to, I just need to order a new cable, and wait three months to get a $60 cable. Plugging the extension into the custom cable wouldn't make sense, because then you'd see the extension.

Also, to clarify, I'm switching to a Corsair SF750 for the power supply, but from what I understand the new power supply uses the same cable pinout.

I had gotten custom CableMod cables for my iTX build. Corsair RM850x PSU. That was before I decided to scrap the Phanteks Enthoo iTX case I had, and decided to pick up an O11D Mini. The GPU cable I ordered months ago is too short to now make the run from the PSU to the graphics card. Can I plug an extension cable into the PSU, and then plug the custom cable into the extension cable? I don't see why not, but I've never done it.

@airborne spoonThank you, sir. I appreciate it.

I want to see what green coolant (like car coolant) looks like when the waterblocks and fans are all set to a red color theme, to see if I like it or not. About to buy coolant for my loop, and I'm playing with ideas. Thanks in advance!

Actually, client wants it because of the aesthetic. It's the only 3080 he likes the design of, and he's a super visual person. I've softened him up on the idea of "we'll get what we can get," but he's still really only going to be "happy" with the FE.

There's a ton out of stock on Amazon UK. Here's three under £50 in order of cost and best performance. Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo - Tried and true, one of the most common aftermarket coolers. Really don't need anything more than this. Make sure it's not too tall to fit inside your computer case. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Cooling-System/dp/B0068OI7T8/ Noctua NH-L9x65 - Better performer, and quieter. Low profile, fits most computer cases. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Noctua-NH-L9x65-Premium-Low-Profile-Cooler/dp/B00VB3Y89E/ Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120 - A liquid cooler/AIO. Best performance, but the most complicated to install. You don't need a liquid cooler at all, but this will fit in any case, and likely be the coolest of the three while still being pretty quiet. Make sure the radiator and fan is installed somewhere above the CPU. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-ML120L-Liquid/dp/B084LKNQBV/

I'd like to be able to use my computer, the one I took my 2070S out of to give to the client. Like I said, he had an opportunity cost - he needed a working PC by a specific date. I don't "need" to use my computer again, sure. But I'd sure like to have a computer again.

Like the title says, I need to know what's going to give me the best shot at getting a 3080 Founders at MSRP. The only valid seller I'm aware of is Best Buy. I have a client (a buddy) who currently has my 2070S in his build...he had an opportunity cost he needed a PC to meet, so I had to loan it to him to get the sale at all. I want my 2070S back, but he only wants the founders version of the 3080 he paid me to get him. People have pointed me to Discord, that there are channels that advertise when there's stock, but the ones I've looked at don't list the Founders card at Best Buy. They look at Amazon, NewEgg, B&H, etc. and seem to list only AIB cards. I've heard that Best Buy e-mail stock notifications are garbage, and will come several hours after they've already sold out - if they ever send the e-mail. I'll do the work and play the game, I don't want to pay for a bot to go buy it for me or something like that. I just need to know when it's in stock to be able to play the game. I can't sit and refresh Best Buy endlessly. I have a day job, and I can't divert my attention from it like that. I can if it's for like 10 minutes every day. Any ideas? Is there a specific Discord I need to be looking at for this? Are there typical days/times that Best Buy restocks them? Or am I just SOL?

An NH-D15 outperforms many 240mm AIO coolers. Something is wrong. I would take the cooler off, make sure you took the sticker off the bottom of it. Look at the way the thermal paste spread - if it isn't covering the whole CPU, not enough was put on. Clean off the thermal paste from the cooler and the CPU using a coffee filter and isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry, add a pea-sized blob of new thermal paste to the CPU, and reinstall the cooler. Make sure you tighten the screws holding the cooler down in a cross pattern, and tighten them until the screws won't turn - they are designed to be completely seated. Make sure the fan on the cooler is installed so it will blow in the right direction (usually towards the back of the case) - the sticker and the fan's housing with the cross-bracing should be facing the back of the case, the face of the fan with no bracing and completely exposed fan blades should face towards the front. Turn the PC on, and make sure the fan on the cooler spins. Go into BIOS, and set the CPU fan curve to 100% all the time. Set your case fans to 100% all the time. Enter Windows, and see how your temperatures are. If this doesn't work, double-check with different reporting software to make sure the software you're using isn't bugged. If that doesn't work, get some cheap case fans to fill out the case, and set those to 100% as well in the BIOS. If that doesn't work...something might be wrong with that chip.

To answer your questions in order: The 750i and 750x are the same, but the 750i has Corsair Link and a better fan (fluid dynamic bearing) compared to the 750x (rifle bearing). The -i version is a nice upgrade, and will have generally a quieter fan noise over time and a longer fan life. Corsair Link lets you have more control and visibility to more information. The H150i is technically the better cooler, as it has more rediator volume, but real-world, you probably won't notice a difference. The fans on the 115i will be quieter, as 140mm fans spin slower and move more air for the same acoustics, generally speaking. From NZXT, the H510i, H700i, H710i, and H510 Elite are all nice cases, but NZXT cases are notoriously bad for airflow. They completely close off and choke intake air, because they want a flat front design. This makes the parts hotter, makes the fans spin up more and get noisier, etc. All bad things to me. Corsair seems to have more competent case design, even though NZXT cases are much nicer-looking to me. You could go for an MSI motherboard, but MSI doesn't make the best quality motherboards in my experience. That said, you make a good point, that you might need Mystic Light to control the RGB of the video card. MSI might not let third-party software control their card lighting - companies want you to stick with and buy their parts/ecosystem. As far as Asus motherboards go, they are good across the board, as are their graphics cards in my experience. You also pay a premium for nice Asus parts, like you typically do with Corsair. Yes, the fan profiles are for setting temperature/fan speed curves. But there are other ways to set this. That said, the RAM should be RGB controllable by any motherboard. Some motherboards will have better settings/RGB control/patterns than others. The reason I suggested Corsair stuff and an Asus motherboard is because Asus motherboards can be taken over by Corsair iCue, and you can coordinate effects between more parts. It seemed like RGB was a focus of your build, and Corsair is one of few companies that has a comorehensive ecosystem of RGB parts, and great effects and products. But, it's not necessary, and like I said before, you pay a premium for that. The LL120 fans are pretty nice, I have them in my system. A little louder than I'd like, but not too obtrusive at full speed. NZXT's Aer fans are also great, I've used them in builds before. But NZXT CAM can be harder to learn than iCue, personally speaking. If you have more questions, feel free to reply or DM me. Good luck with the build, and congrats on snagging a 3070.

Oh, I almost forgot to mention. ASUS motherboards can talk to Corsair iCue, so in theory, you can have iCue also controlling the RGB on your motherboard and your RAM. It might even do the RGB on your graphics card, not sure. But, EVGA Precision X1 or MSI Afterburner should be able to do graphics card RGB as well, and I recommend getting one of these programs to set a custom fan profile as well, and have on-screen diagnostics of how your system is running in-game...and do overclocking if you want to. I do this now, and it's awesome. Moreso...my advice is to look into and plan how your RGB is going to work, and pick components based on meeting that end. The parts themselves are great, but a lot of people end up with an undue hassle getting their RGB to work properly because they mishmash parts. Make it as simple as possible, with as few programs running as you can. Make sure your case can mount your AIO where you want it to be, too. Little things like that. Vendors make it easy for the most part to find information about their parts that can help fine tune your build list.

Seems like a pretty solid build. Some stuff to think about: You may want to switch to a Corsair AIO. I don't think you want both Corsair's and NZXT's RGB software running at the same time. The power supply doesn't need to be the 750i, you could go with the 750x unless you need Corsair Link. And the case only has support for a 280mm AIO in the front, where your fancy ARGB fans are. You can't install that AIO up top, so you're losing one of the major points of buying that case. Again, with an eye for compatibility, you might want to consider a Corsair RGB case instead, like the 4000x. It has a lighting node included for managing fan RGB, and includes three RGB 120mm fans. With a 280mm AIO from Corsair (the H115i Platinum RGB, which is also a 280mm AIO), you have all of the fans you can put into the case, they're all RGB, and how many programs you have running to control RGB components is limited. You'll probably still need other RGB software to do the RGB on the motherboard and graphics card, but both NZXT CAM and Corsair iCue are pretty resource-intensive to run. Best to choose one imo. In that vein, you could also keep the Z63, and get an NZXT case with integrated RGB and fans. Just make sure you have somewhere to put the AIO where it doesn't take away a feature you're paying for.

Budget (including currency): $650, initially - but this is flexible if it has to be. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: SolidWorks 2020, Rocket League, unknown games Other details: ~60 FPS @1080p gaming, 2 monitor setup when not gaming. Must have WiFi. Co-worker is asking for about a $500 PC that can do light CAD and decent gaming. Convinced him to spend a little more. Requirements he gave me were: 32GB RAM, solid state boot drive, 1080p gaming at a decent framerate, and a computer that doesn't run like a** when he's gaming or doing CAD. The problem I'm running into is that he said, after the fact, that the CAD he wants to run is SolidWorks. SW wants to run on/is only certified for workstation-class cards (quadro), but I don't know much about them or how to pick a decent one. Inventor and AutoCAD have the ability to use DirectX and don't need OpenGL hardware support, which would have made this a non-issue, because those would have run on Geforce cards just fine. What I'm seeing is that workstation cards blow up his budget if he wants to do gaming at a decent level of performance with one. If I use a Geforce card, I worry that SW won't run well - I know RealView won't work, but I just don't want it to be unstable or extremely terrible performance otherwise (i.e.graphical issues, crashing, etc). From what I'm seeing, AMD Radeon cards tend not to work whatsoever with SW - for AMD graphics cards, it's workstation class or nothing. I don't know what to recommend to him, but I'm trying not to have to go back to him and explain he's SOL. As for the CPU, before I take any grief for it, I went with an i3 (below) because AMD motherboards with onboard WiFi are terribly expensive compared to LGA1200 motherboards with WiFi. I would have loved to recommend an AMD CPU, but I can't get the budget to work. Any comments are welcome. As configured: CPU: Intel i3 10100 or 10100F Motherboard: Gigabyte B460M DS3H AC RAM: Patriot Viper Elite 32gb (2x16), 2666MHz C16 Boot: Crucial BX500 480GB Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 2TB (later) Graphics Card: Gigabyte GTX 1650 Super OC Case: Fractal Design Core 1100 mATX PSU: Thermaltake Smart 500W (owned)

I have never heard of a drive causing this kind of problem. Then again...I'm not going to say that anything surprises me anymore when it comes to computers.

Stupid question...did you put all the hardware (CPU, RAM, graphics card, etc.) onto that B550 motherboard? It won't POST without all the parts. Sorry if that seems like a dumb statement. I want to make sure you're doing everything. I assume you did put everything onto the B550...so...did you let it try to boot for a few minutes? Some AMD motherboards boot loop 3 or 4 times once they see new hardware. It's just the PC getting used to the hardware. If that's not the issue, is the B550 your old motherboard? If it is, try putting your old CPU into it. If you've tried everything I listed, I don't know what to tell you. Some part of the system isn't working properly, obviously. I would say the PSU went bad, but you tried two with the same results. It wouldn't be likely that two PSU's failed back to back. I would say the motherboard, but if your old one has the same results, I'm not confident you junked two motherboards back to back. It could be the graphics card, but without another system, you can't tell. Your CPU doesn't have integrated graphics to let you pull out the graphics card and see if it boots - you could try this and see if the PC at least stops clicking and rebooting over and over again, but it might not help. Sorry, I've exhausted my ability to troubleshoot.

Yeah, I just re-reviewed what I wrote, and took another look at MSI's site. I'm going to strike through a lot of what I wrote. My goodness, did I screw up. I misread the data. They stated their fans are 0.15A plus or minus 20%, not at 20%. That comes to .18A maximum, which is 0.72A, which means OP is fine to use a 4 to 1 splitter. I feel bad for writing all that off of a mistake.

I'm pretty sure the PSU flaked on you. I'd contact EVGA to try to get them to RMA it. Yeah, your old PSU is old. But it should be OK with those parts temporarily. But if you don't want to risk it, don't. A PSU blowing out can do more than just kill itself, that's a real concern. My first PC, a Dell, had the power supply pop after a thunderstorm. It wiped out the motherboard...and everything connected to it. $1400 down the crapper, along with my college art portfolio. If you can, at least, back up your critical data before you decide to run that PSU for an extended period of time. Better safe than sorry.

I should clarify, put your old CPU into your old motherboard. If it boots, and you can flash the BIOS to use the new CPU, do this is if you need to to use the new CPU in it. Then see if it boots. If you do all this and it boots with the old CPU, but not the new CPU, the new CPU might be bad. If you're upgrading from Intel to AMD, don't do this. The CPU's aren't interchangeable like this, I'm assuming you're going from Ryzen to a newer generation of Ryzen.

It sounds like it's stuck in a boot loop. Check to make sure all the connectors on your motherboard (24 pin, 8 pin) are plugged in all the way. Check your RAM. Make sure it's in the right slots for your motherboard. Pull it out and push it back in. If that doesn't help, try one stick at a time if you have multiple sticks. If that doesn't help, pull your graphics card out and put it back in. If that doesn't help, pull the CPU out and put it back in. If that doesn't help, put your CPU, RAM, and graphics card onto your old motherboard on the new motherboard's box. Plug in your drives and the fans, and see if it works. If it does, the motherboard might be bad. If it doesn't, you might have toasted one of your components.