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About NickPickerWI

  • Title
  • Birthday 1984-12-24

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
  • Biography
    Dude from Wisconsin that builds anything from e-machines up to completely custom water cooled beasts. Currently designing a custom case for a water cooled personal show rig. Nickname came from work, I'm a pretty big stickler on details.
  • Occupation
    Product designer (engineering)


  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700k
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix Z370-I Gaming
  • RAM
    G.Skill TridentZ 16GB 3200MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1070 FTW Gaming
  • Case
    Thermaltake V1
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 500GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RMX 850w
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB1
  • Cooling
    Noctua NH-D9L

Recent Profile Visitors

291 profile views
  1. 1. Monitor 2. Video Card 3. CPU 4. CPU Cooler 5. Motherboard 6. RAM 7. Power Supply 8. SSD's/Hard Drives 9. Case 10. LED's/Extras This is a weird question though, because you might want a home theater PC, in which case you'd need to center around what you can fit in a small case. You might want to do video editing and/or modeling, in which case the CPU becomes more important.
  2. Again, I'm just armchair diagnosing. You may have also blown out the PCIe lane, or partially. You may have intermittent success with the card, or a different card in that slot. This might not be the problem, you might have a finnicky motherboard. Either way, lesson learned: don't mess around with rigging up power solutions.
  3. To answer what happened: You used the converter, which you should never have done. The graphics card pulled too much power from the power supply circuit used for SATA power and killed the PSU - the weird buzzing happens inside your power supply because something blew up, maybe a capacitor or something. And, the power spike that happened when that part of the power supply blew up also blew up the video card. Power supplies are set up with power rails and specific circuits meant to handle specific things. If your power supply didn't have a PCI-e lane, and you tried to use SATA power to power a video card, you were trying to basically pull a pig through a straw, and broke both the pig and the straw.
  4. Roll back to before the update. The latest Windows 10 update has been doing some pretty fun stuff to a lot of people's PC's.
  5. You don't install an earlier version of Windows. Somewhere in the land of Windows 10 control panel settings (I used to know exactly where this was in Win 7 and Win XP...then Microsoft made EVERYTHING a cluster#### to find) there is an option to roll back to a previous version...basically, to undo an update. That's what you want to do. There's instructions out there, just google it.
  6. Or just a better SeaSonic. The budget allows for one of their Focus Plus Gold PSU's.
  7. I've been seeing a lot of this Critical Process Died stuff popping up recently. I have a feeling Microsoft released a bad update. Critical Process Died is a software issue. You can try booting into Safe Mode and stepping back to a previous update of Windows. You can also use the Repair function on your Windows install media.
  8. A soldering iron and a steady hand.
  9. It's possible that during the act of removing the CMOS battery, you inadvertently damaged the surface mount/trace, and the electrical path is compromised. This is entirely possible as the solder joints for most circuit boards are relatively fragile, so to speak...they're done with an automated machine with the least amount of solder possible. It's also possible because traces are incredibly thin. It sounds like, in some fashion, the mobo is damaged. The battery has power, but power can't be drawn from it because of a mechanical failure of the path of electricity. Don't know what else to tell you. I have no idea how to verify this. I'm sure someone with more electronics experience could tell you two points to measure continuity on a motherboard to verify this, but I'm not well-versed on motherboard circuit design, and have no clue how to solder things this delicate manually without damaging something or making the problem worse. It takes some special stuff to do proper repair soldering on commercially-made PCB's. I'd talk to Dell. I also hate Dell, for a variety of reasons. You could also try a repair shop that deals with Dell stuff, they might have a replacement mobo or a scrapped laptop to steal one from. Sorry I can't help more.
  10. Do you mean an Inspiron 7520? The battery itself could be dead. Try replacing it with a new battery.
  11. Critical Process Died is a problem with the software. This may be helpful...try each step, and see if it fixes the issue before moving to the next step: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/critical-process-died/
  12. No, but it's a hassle. I don't know about his area, but in my area, buying these parts from a shop...well, there are no "shops" that carry parts like this, like a Microcenter. Closest is Best Buy, and they might have two or three motherboards in stock, period, if they even carry components in-store anymore. With the prevalence of Amazon and online purchase, many places (cities) just don't have shops anymore. Yeah, lol, that's not because of gaming, it's because of all of the tabs. That's...I never understood why people do that. But, you do you. Neither would I, but only because they don't have voltage offset in their BIOS for overclocking. Mechanically, they make solid boards...and make crap boards. So does Asus and Gigabyte. Same argument can be had about power supplies. It depends on what you're looking at. MSI's B450-I Gaming Plus is the only B4XX or X4XX iTX board with decent VRM's to handle Zen 2, for example. The iTX offerings from other companies are physically made with too low a quality/power VRM.
  13. This article may be useful. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.windowscentral.com/how-use-startup-repair-fix-boot-problems-windows-10%3famp
  14. I wasn't saying the action was above their tech level, but rather that the description of what they needed to do was omitting too much. Seems like, as OP said, they are new to this. Probably needs more information and steps, like you gave in your above quote.
  15. I was going to suggest the RAM swap, but that's a maybe 6-7 FPS difference. 32GB is overkill for gaming, but to your point, we don't know OP's use case. X470 would be great, but OP would need to update the BIOS. The Tomahawk has a bios flashback button, but I don't think other motherboards for X470 do, so then OP would need to get a cheap AM4 chip to update the BIOS or wait for AMD to send them a bootkit. They're switching from Intel.