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NickPickerWI

Member
  • Content Count

    349
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About NickPickerWI

  • Title
    Member
  • Birthday 1984-12-24

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Biography
    Dude from Wisconsin that builds anything from e-machines up to completely custom water cooled beasts. Currently designing a custom case for a water cooled personal show rig. Nickname came from work, I'm a pretty big stickler on details.
  • Occupation
    Product designer (engineering)

System

  • CPU
    Intel i7 8700k
  • Motherboard
    Asus ROG Strix Z370-I Gaming
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance Pro RGB 32GB 3600MHz
  • GPU
    NVidia Geforce RTX 2070 Super
  • Case
    Phanteks Evolv iTX TG (modded)
  • Storage
    Samsung 970 Evo 500GB, Samsung QVO 1TB
  • PSU
    Corsair RMX 850w
  • Display(s)
    Acer Predator XB1
  • Cooling
    Custom Loop, 2x240mm radiators (Corsair, EK, Bitspower) with Corsair LL120 fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K65 LUX RGB
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 Pro RGB
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 Home x64

Recent Profile Visitors

562 profile views
  1. I have never heard of a drive causing this kind of problem. Then again...I'm not going to say that anything surprises me anymore when it comes to computers.
  2. Stupid question...did you put all the hardware (CPU, RAM, graphics card, etc.) onto that B550 motherboard? It won't POST without all the parts. Sorry if that seems like a dumb statement. I want to make sure you're doing everything. I assume you did put everything onto the B550...so...did you let it try to boot for a few minutes? Some AMD motherboards boot loop 3 or 4 times once they see new hardware. It's just the PC getting used to the hardware. If that's not the issue, is the B550 your old motherboard? If it is, try putting your old CPU into it. If you've tried everything I listed, I don't know what to tell you. Some part of the system isn't working properly, obviously. I would say the PSU went bad, but you tried two with the same results. It wouldn't be likely that two PSU's failed back to back. I would say the motherboard, but if your old one has the same results, I'm not confident you junked two motherboards back to back. It could be the graphics card, but without another system, you can't tell. Your CPU doesn't have integrated graphics to let you pull out the graphics card and see if it boots - you could try this and see if the PC at least stops clicking and rebooting over and over again, but it might not help. Sorry, I've exhausted my ability to troubleshoot.
  3. Yeah, I just re-reviewed what I wrote, and took another look at MSI's site. I'm going to strike through a lot of what I wrote. My goodness, did I screw up. I misread the data. They stated their fans are 0.15A plus or minus 20%, not at 20%. That comes to .18A maximum, which is 0.72A, which means OP is fine to use a 4 to 1 splitter. I feel bad for writing all that off of a mistake.
  4. I'm pretty sure the PSU flaked on you. I'd contact EVGA to try to get them to RMA it. Yeah, your old PSU is old. But it should be OK with those parts temporarily. But if you don't want to risk it, don't. A PSU blowing out can do more than just kill itself, that's a real concern. My first PC, a Dell, had the power supply pop after a thunderstorm. It wiped out the motherboard...and everything connected to it. $1400 down the crapper, along with my college art portfolio. If you can, at least, back up your critical data before you decide to run that PSU for an extended period of time. Better safe than sorry.
  5. I should clarify, put your old CPU into your old motherboard. If it boots, and you can flash the BIOS to use the new CPU, do this is if you need to to use the new CPU in it. Then see if it boots. If you do all this and it boots with the old CPU, but not the new CPU, the new CPU might be bad. If you're upgrading from Intel to AMD, don't do this. The CPU's aren't interchangeable like this, I'm assuming you're going from Ryzen to a newer generation of Ryzen.
  6. It sounds like it's stuck in a boot loop. Check to make sure all the connectors on your motherboard (24 pin, 8 pin) are plugged in all the way. Check your RAM. Make sure it's in the right slots for your motherboard. Pull it out and push it back in. If that doesn't help, try one stick at a time if you have multiple sticks. If that doesn't help, pull your graphics card out and put it back in. If that doesn't help, pull the CPU out and put it back in. If that doesn't help, put your CPU, RAM, and graphics card onto your old motherboard on the new motherboard's box. Plug in your drives and the fans, and see if it works. If it does, the motherboard might be bad. If it doesn't, you might have toasted one of your components.
  7. If you get the same results with HWInfo64, you might have bad thermal paste application. Re-paste the CPU and see if it helps.
  8. I believe you need a 650W power supply to run a 3070. You need a 750W power supply to run a 3080, I know that for sure. NVidia has posted this somewhere. You may want to wait on your CPU, AMD looks to be releasing new CPU's this fall. You might be able to get that one for cheaper, or a better one for the same price. Be careful and check that your motherboard will support that CPU, and note that it may need a BIOS update. You'd need an older CPU to do the update. I don't know if AMD is still sending out loaner CPU's to do this with, but I know they used to. The RAM is passable, but slow. It won't work "the best" with your CPU, but it's also inexpensive. I get what you're working with, so don't worry about this too much - but get 3600MHz C18 (good) or C16 (better) instead if you can.
  9. I completely misread the data, and got the amperage rating wrong. Keep this in mind when reading my post below, and see the future posts further below for correct responses. Ahhh, yes. MSI, the king of not giving you enough information. If you wanted to know for sure, you'd have to contact MSI. If they (at 100%, and this is important) draw less than 0.25A each, you're barely OK. You'd want a 4-1 fan splitter. I'd hesitate to do this if they even draw 0.23A per fan, because you're right there at the limit of the header. A small blip can kill the header. However, I have some bad news friendo. The RGB fans they sell, both the MSI MAX F12A-3 and F12A-3H, state that they pull 0.15A at 20%. This is ridiculous, I've never seen a fan rating given at a percent of usage, it almost seems like they're trying to pull a fast one. But the higher amperage is not surprising. It's what happens when you get a cheap motor. MSI, in my experience, is prone to cheap out on things. For reference, my Corsair LL120 fans pull 0.3A each. The MSI fans are probably about the same at max. But something like Noctua NF-F12 or EK Vardar fans pull only 0.05A and 0.12A respectively. My guess is the fans in your case are the exact same fans they sell. That said, I'd consider getting a different motherboard that has at least two CHA_FAN headers, or get a fan hub that uses Molex or SATA power. If you get a new motherboard, you'll be able to let the motherboard do speed control - more on that in a bit. So, you could force the fans to only ever run at 20% in the BIOS, and run all four in a 4-1 splitter. That's not great, but it would work. I don't recommend this. It would be quiet, but your ability to cool your PC with fresh air will be crap. A better idea for now is to disconnect the bottom fan from the 3-1 splitter in the front of the case, and plug the rear fan into where that fan was on the splitter. You'll have two intake and one exhaust fan, which should be good enough for the time being. You don't want to run without an exhaust fan. Yeah, the bottom fan won't spin, but you'll be OK for now. If you do get a different motherboard, get two 2-1 fan splitters. Those are DC (3 pin) fans, so get splitters for those. You can get 2-1 PWM (4-pin) splitters and they'll work just fine, but if they're more expensive you're wasting money. Given how terrible these fans look to be on paper, I wouldn't even want to run three of them on the same header, which is why I suggest running 2 per header with 2-1 splitters. If you get a fan hub, note that the fans may either be 100% or 0%. You lose speed control with most of them, because nothing is talking to the motherboard (like you'd have if the fans were plugged into headers on the motherboard). Even with a DC fan, you can set curves for them to ramp up or down in the BIOS/UEFI based on your CPU or graphics card temperature, and you'll likely lose this with a fan hub. Anyway, sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I hope this helps.
  10. Can you take a snapshot of the back of one of the fans? It might be hidden, or I might be able to look up the model number and get a technical datasheet for it.
  11. You're probably right about flashing the BIOS. I didn't see the model of motherboard OP had.
  12. Unless I read this post incorrectly, there will be more than two fans connecting to the header. He's trying to connect two plugs, not two fans. It sounds and looks like the front three fans are already on a 3-1 splitter, and the back fan is standalone. All four need to feed from that header. That said, it is entirely possible that (cheaper, older, etc.) fans can draw more than .25A per fan.
  13. Two things. A 9100f doesn't have integrated graphics. If you haven't installed a graphics card to your bench, it may be stuck at that part of the POST cycle. Check the manual, you might be missing a power connector on the motherboard somewhere. You also might have the RAM in the wrong slot for where that motherboard wants a single stick.
  14. Before they do this, OP should look at the back of the fans to make sure they, together, don't draw more than what the connector can provide, which is 1 amp. Otherwise, they will have zero fan headers on the board.
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