The Strange

Try taking off the keycaps and see if there's dirts & debris.
Check the membrane layer if there's any tear.
None ? Then it might be the PCB itself already degraded / corroded, you can try cleaning the copper traces with 99% IPA & soft toothbrush.
 
But yeah, it's -at the very least- a 14y old keyboard. I wouldn't be surprised if it stops working entirely.
It probably screams "Dude, I want to retire!" everyday. 🤣

Steam actually has a Local Co-op section: https://store.steampowered.com/tags/en/Local+Co-Op
 
Not a bad list here: https://gg.deals/blog/20-best-couch-local-co-op-games-for-pc/
 

Both ways do work for me, now I can continue downloading the rest of those 6 files, thank you so much guys for help, all replies are really appreciated. 

No need. Just happy you got it all working again. 😉

Done, my apologize 🙂

Both ways do work for me, now I can continue downloading the rest of those 6 files, thank you so much guys for help, all replies are really appreciated. 

I meant mark this post. 🙂

Thanks for reporting back.
Even tho 2 solutions to it, i would suggest marking the easiest one (delete and restart) as the answer for anyone ever searching for this. 🙂

Both ways do work for me, now I can continue downloading the rest of those 6 files, thank you so much guys for help, all replies are really appreciated. 

I usually delete the torrent (not the files) and then just start it again, it will then let you pick what files you download again (if you pick ones you have already downloaded and still have in the directory it will just check they are complete and mark them 100%)

Besides doing what @Ezzy-525 said, you can also check if its not marked for "do not download".
Make sure the checkmark is checked and its set to "Normal", "High" or "Maximum".

Realistically you'll be fine unless you have a large stack of drives running next to each other inside a case with no airflow. Personally I would try to keep them under 55°, but even if they do get that hot they're not going to fail instantly. if you're worried then add some airflow. 

Google released info years ago stating they saw increased failure of drives over 50c. That was a few years ago at this point tho. 
 
45 drives releases info every quarter about drive health and statistics. They are a great source of info for these types of questions since they have very detailed information and statistical analysis across tens of thousands of drives. I have not looked at their numbers often, but I bet they also saw under 50 is ideal. 
 
That said, 55 won’t kill a drive instantly. A buddy of mine runs a 24 bay NAS and his drives are typically over 55, and they have been fine for 4+ years being on 24/7. 

I agree I also make sure it always stays under 50°C.
 

There is no definite answer.
The 60°C that WD specifies is the max operating temperature, meaning at that point it will still function properly. That doesn't mean it won't have any effect on it.
 
Generally speaking, anything below 60°C is fine, as long as it's not for a prolonged duration.
 
Personally, I'd make sure it always stays under 50°C, but that doesn't mean it will automatically die at a temperature over 50°C. Just use common sense, make sure it receives enough airflow and you'll be fine for many many years.

I can't remember the last optical mouse I had where there was any visible light from the sensor.
 
Laser mice, yes, but laser mice are an inferior and obsolete technology compared to true optical mice. 

Normal operation, so if it does break, this won't be the reason 🙂

The sensor lighting up was a gimmick, OOO opticla sensor, it never did anything useful. Perfectly normal for it not to light up.

Not all mice will use an optical laser so that'll be why you can't see it on this one. Pretty standard, nothing to worry about.
 
Fun fact - your phone camera will likely be able to see the spectrum of light your mouse is using so you'll see a kind of purple glow at the right angle if you look at the sensor area live from your phone camera. Can be hard to see but you'll notice a difference when the mouse is on and off.
 
edit - t on "not"

I have a SMR hdd I use for games, and it works fine. There is a large buffer so you don't see the smr performance impact for a while, and normally your internal is much slower than the hdd for game installs

Tons of big companies make products in different countries than their headquarters. This hdd is legit. There really aren't many fake hdds as its so hard to make them, and only 3 companies make them now
 
SMR means the write speeds are slower, esp for sustained random writes. Likely won't make a diffference here.
 
Id keep the drive, it will work fine and I think the EZAZ will replace the older EZRZ

WD is an American company, but manufacturing products in SEA is basically the norm nowadays. My WD Black drive from years ago also mentioned being manufactured in Thailand.
Thailand, Taiwan, Vietnam, China (of course) and more countries in that area are very common areas for electronics to be manufactured.
In short:
SMR = shingled magnetic recording
PMR/CMR = perpendicular/conventional mechanical recording
 
SMR drives don't suffer any read penalty, but random write operations will be a lot slower. SMR drives are not recommend for NAS (server) use nor for very random write-intensive applications. SMR allows the manufacturer to produce their hard drives for a lower price, but has the drawbacks as mentioned above.
This is a technology that has existed for a couple years, but has only fairly recently caught on as a term in the more mainstream tech world.
 
You can often tell if a drive will be SMR of CMR/PMR by the amount of cache is included in the drive.
While CMR/PMR drives have the common 32-64MB amount of cache, SMR drives often have 256MB (to compensate for their slower write-performance and needing to remember more temporary files).
 
Whether you're okay with an SMR drive is difficult to say, as there are many different types of workloads for drives.
If you truly want a high performance drive (in terms of speed), you might want to consider an SSD. If you want a higher performance HDD (but still not as high as a decent SSD), you can consider a 7200RPM CMR/PMR drive like the Toshiba X300 or WD Black.
Those are among the few CMR/PMR drives (that are not NAS drives specifically).
 
This video goes a bit in to detail about SMR, including some graphics to show what happens on the inside (and why random writes are often difficult for these drives):
This video was made, because it had come to light WD had been using SMR technology in their WD Red drives. Red drives are for NAS (server) use, which SMR technology does not work well with, which is why it was a controversial topic.
At that time, people became more aware of SMR vs. CMR/PMR (or at least I did).

id go with the gm08, the design is pretty similar to the logitech G402 which still is one of the most confortable mouses ive used so far

I started on Hard and died more times in the tutorial than in the rest of the game. 
I guess it's a lot more easier since you already have the grasp on the game mechanics

I played the game and in scenes that are side scrolling I had to use a controller to get through.
I was not happy about it since any time I have to plug the controller in I know that it is a bad port.