Shmael1053

Just took a look at your UserBenchmark results.
Single-channel memory can be a bottleneck, but according to your test results the memory is performing just fine.
Your processor, however, is underperforming even more dramatically than your graphics card. If your processor is struggling, it can bottleneck your GPU. That may be what's happening here.
Your SSD is also underperforming; it's actually in the lowest percentile of all your components that were tested. Since an NVMe drive is often linked directly to the CPU, this could *also* be because your CPU is having issues.
 
Based on the manufacturer's photos for your PC, it may be a cooling issue? It looks like a stock cooler or something comparable, which is not likely to do a great job keeping your CPU cool under load. if you have something like HWinfo installed, take a look at what your CPU temps are, both at idle and under load. For reference, I have a Ryzen 7 5800X and it's sitting at 45 C as I write this, and that's with a tiny low-profile heatsink from Noctua. If your temps at idle are much higher than that, or if HWinfo says "Thermal throttling | Yes" when you're running a game, you probably want to look at a new cooler.
 
As a side note, are you installing all your games to your boot drive? Your UserBenchmark results say your system drive only has about 12% free, while your second drive has over 80% free. It's generally a good idea to avoid filling up your boot drive; I think Linus himself has said he doesn't like any SSD getting over 50% full. I highly encourage you to move games and large files over to your secondary drive. It'll spread the load out across the drives and stop your system from having to fight for bandwidth when you're playing a game - SSDs are good at handling requests from multiple sources, but it's still best practice to spread out the load as much as possible. It might help your system run faster, and it will *definitely* keep your boot drive alive for longer.

if you have data on the drive that you want to try to recover, you can use a tool like this and another pc to attempt to diagnose further and read from the drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MTTCC4H

after that or if it inst matter, start RMA process. dont ever bother with a storage device the moment it gives you even a hint of trouble. just not worth it. 

Yeah, that card is overclocked so I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I have a backup GPU I swapped in an hour ago and that's working flawlessly so it doesn't seem to be a Windows or Nvidia issue. Will put the Gigabyte card back in tomorrow and try to mess with the OC settings/drivers to troubleshoot.

It seems like VRAM related problem,or overclock too high, ddu the driver on safe mode and hope it will back to normal.
If it's still doing this try it on another PC before RMA your card.
 

1. most people needing 2nd nowadays not to have wifi, but to add more USB ports or a faster NICs as 2.5 gigabit NICs falls in price. X570 and certain B550 motherboards have wifi 6 and Bluetooth 5 built in, in accordance to the chipset standard.
Again, not really. Most USB hubs and dongles solves the issue of IO without hitch, so 2nd one really falls off favor even in mATX motherboard.
Depends on what you need on feature sets. As i say before, X570 boards usually always include a wifi 6 and bluetooth 5 chip, but besides that its hard to justify them.

Disclaimer: This guide is only for systems that use the LGA1155 socket. HP 6000 systems and other LGA775 systems are not compatible.
 
Hi, first I apologize for any grammar mistakes, English is not my native language, so i wanted to upgrade my HP pro 6300's power supply to something more powerful but the motherboard gets power from a weird p2 connector and a 6 pin connector instead of a standard 24 pin power connector. after doing a little bit of research, i managed to stick in an EVGA 500w PSU and everything is working fine so far, if anyone wants to know how i did it, here is what you need to do.
 
- buy a 24 pin to 6 pin adapter cable ( around $10) https://i.imgur.com/mAH1oTQ.jpg but they are made for z220/z230 workstations only. so, you'll have to easily change the pins layout of that white p2 connector for the adapter to work with your HP pro 6300. (this is the one I bought   https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075242NGZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
 
- remove all 4 cables from that white p2 connector and compare the cables with the ones from your old PSU.
your old PSU will have 4 or 5 cables on that p2 connector ( grey, green, white, white with red stripes, and sometimes black) .
the adapter will have (yellow, green, red, black)
 
ok, then put the yellow cable back in where the grey one was and put the green one back in where the green one was and put the black one back in where the pure white one was. and put the red one exactly next to where you put the yellow one. 
 
ok now turn on your pc and that's it.
 
if you get an error on startup saying that the PSU fan is not detected, press F1 to ignore it and continue, but if you get tired of the error every time you start your pc and want to fix it, here is what to do.
 
remember the black cable you inserted where the pure white one was, that cable is a TAC cable, it sends the PSU fan speed readings to motherboard but since the new PSU's wiring is not the same as the old HP one, the motherboard has no clue. so, you'll need to cut that black cable from where the cable meets with the 24 pin connector thingy (just to get enough length of it) https://i.imgur.com/n3W9MG5.jpg and then you'll need to attach it to the green TAC cable of the CPU fan connector and this will trick the motherboard into thinking that the CPU fan it is sensing is the PSU fan and you won't get any errors. Good luck
https://i.imgur.com/63KGBe5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/DRN6twk.jpg
Edit : The fan error stopped showing up after a few days or so without doing any modification (that fan error is probably set up to show up a certain number of times). 
 
Edit 2: Another option would be buying a dual SATA to 6 pin or 8 pin cable but it's not really recommended for anything above a GTX1060 cause these prebuilt PCs come with only 320W PSU, here's how it works https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JkmsLxnCfrQ
 
Edit 3:  Here's a diagram of how exactly my adapter is wired https://imgur.com/20grXCC. For those that have differently colored adapters, you can still follow this diagram but you gotta check where your wires are going exactly.
 
 

You're right. Kelvin is much better.

Won't work because of the proprietary PSU used in many of those models.
Often times you see +12V Only PSU and Drives getting power from the Motherboard. 
 
So the best you can do is putting a Graphicscard without a 6 or 8pin power connector on the Board.
Using adaptors might burn the Motherboard...