R U CRAZY

The problem was apparently a faulty PCI USB extention card that I added today, didn't even think about it. Once I removed it, I saw there was a capacitor that was hanging loose, and when I powered up the computer again, the bug was fixed.

So we just moved and I decided it was time to upgrade to an nvme SSD, so I load up the computer (before installing the SSD) and it just goes into a windows repair loop that I couldn't for the life of me fix. I decided to just install windows 10 on the new SSD already and it worked, the former install probably got corrupted somehow. I've been using it for a couple of days now, and today it decided to start randomly freezing and then instantly unfreezing, it's like a stutter, but worse. I've tried everything I could think of and could find on the internet, including updating my drivers (all of them) trying to load the PC with no peripherals and then connecting only what's necessary for testing whether it still "hangs" (I found that's the official name for these mini-freezes) and marked all the startup apps in the task manager as disabled, but none of these worked. Quick comment about drivers, I did need to update GPU drivers, but the bug persisted after updating. What I did find that works though is going to safe mode (w/ networking), the hangs don't happen there, so I'm guessing that it's a software bug that usually loads up but doesn't in safe mode. Anyone have an idea as to what it could be? Edit: temps are fine, it doesn't seem to be CPU, GPU or RAM related (also ran tests on all three).

Just to make sure - does the computer light up when you turn it on? And does your mobo have an error code diplay area?

Hello, I'm currently using a tp-link powerline ethernet adapter model "TL-PA7010(EU)" Ver:3.0. I have been using it for some months now, and recently went to a vacation, apparently I left my power and PC (Windows 10) on and thus the adapter as well, and since then, it doesn't work. I have tried many methods, I have uninstalled my drivers and got the latest version of my mobo's LAN, already had the latest firmware for the adapter, and flushed everything possible, I have also tried manually setting everything in the ipv4 section, and the static IP does not conflict with my router. I did however find that the automatic IP the adapter sets is abnormal, and is missing a default gateway. Both the adapter connected to my computer and the one connected to the router show up correctly on tp-link's tpPLC program (350MB/s) and all lights are on and green. Here I also noticed that the arrow was pointing from my PC's adapter to the Router's, does this matter? Can anyone help me please? I feel helpless.

I own a Ryzen 7 2700X CPU placed on the AsRock X470 TaiChi motherboard and cooled by the Corsair H115i Pro RGB. Since day one of building my computer, I have tried to OC my CPU as hard as possible, yet my CPU doesn't seem to be a good overclocker, because even at 4.2Ghz and 1.437V, under stress test, the CPU gets heated up to a max of 90°C, but this is where things get weird, because even though it's only at 90°C and the 2700X's limit is 105°C, my PC decides it's time to freeze, also, it happened twice to my younger brother, with no seeming reason, while he was playing * Shudder * Fortnite on my rig. Does anybody have any idea what's going on?

If you're lucky, you might ?

At least in good and not unsafe temperatures, so if you want to have a unstable CPU that will probably die in 3-4 years, you can totally go for it, but I wouldn't recommend it.

Thank you, though I am quite annoyed by the sound, and to further worsen things, when my dog heard it she started whining herself, so I will contact the manufacturer to maybe get a replacement, again, thank you.

Yes, but are two months old products, especially those without any report about them doing so, really that susceptible to coil whine? Because to my understanding, components develop coil whine, not just get it, or I might be wrong.

So, I've built my PC around two months ago, and I didn't have much time to use it so I all I did was just setting up windows, games, OC and stability checks, yesterday, I fired it up, and there was this very high pitched sound coming from it, and it was annoying. Naturally, I thought it was coil whine, and so I researched about my parts and found no report (on google) that had anything to do with coil whine, and so I thought it was just weird, but it was getting late so I went to sleep, today, when I fired up my (Note: two month old) PC, it was there again, and so I had to restart after installing the latest AfterBurner update, and the sound was just gone, what just happened?

And if he did play WoW, he wouldn't need such a high end GPU, he could be just fine with an RX 570 and an R5 2600 and would get 144fps easily.

Agreed, but don't you think there's a reason? I am, are you? Note: testing was done with an RTX 2080ti, something that is most certainly not in this case's budget, and that is bottlnecked by every modern consumer/enthusiast/server grade CPU, so not really a good measurement to the RTX 2060 or even the 2070, and yes it might be a difference of even up to 10 fps differnce, but for the price delta, you could get a better card.

1. I didn't know that (the price) and it might do so, in 1 - 3 fps difference. 2. Throttle if overclocking, many features not needed. 3. As I said, my experience. 4. And? It performs better, it's in price range, what's the problem?

1. I have the RTX 2080 and an unlocked Ryzen 2700X processor, running 1440p 21:9 120hz just fine. 2. This is 100% correct, I'm just very technical. 3. Most (all 3D games) are restrained by the GPU... 4. Obviously, but Ryzen is, depending on you GPU, obviously the scenario I described wasn't really real, but the 2600 is good enough for most GPUs, also, Ryzen is apparently future proof, giving you PCIe 4.0 for the B350 and up, as long as you just drop in a 3rd Gen Ryzen processor. ? 5. It doesn't, unless you have a game and this one's specific performance in mind.

But that is as long as the only thing you care about is gaming performance, if not, I would suggest suggest really getting a new computer, This one sounds good although: 1. The CPU could be the 8700, non overclockable, but with this cooler, and not needing to overclock it, it could be better. 2. If you don't overclock, you could get an H370 motherboard, which will be a lot cheaper. 3. Personally, I have a bad experience with WD, I'd go for the extra pound and get the seagate barracuda, but that is just me. 4. Since it's still below budget, maybe getting the RTX 2070 instead? 5. The SSD could be the SX6000, NVMe for 7-10 pounds more.