Not Eligible For Stars

/ • • / i have a language related question for you fine folks: i would like to learn french - mostly just the spoken part. i’ve heard your starting language plays a role in how hard it would be. i currently speak&write norwegian and english. what is the chillest way to go through with this? is it beneficial / a “must” to write on paper to learn it? i’m kinda looking for something like a audio course, that i would listen to for 1-2 hours before i go to bed. i’m open to learn it the pen and paper way, but it would steal time from my daily life. have anyone done anything like this with success? did you succeed? would love to hear your experiences with learning the french language, or any languages in general my motivation is to broaden my knowledge of languages. i really hated french/any language when i was forced to learn them at school (11. grade). but now that i have grown up i regret my earlier ignorance. i have no plans to utilize it for work or school. i’m not linus’es next employee

@IgorM Mmm, kinda and kinda not. My fusebox in the basement dont affect 2.floor where the gear is located. The street fusebox tho, opens with a female-triangle key and probably contains trays with NH-fuses. https://voltaconsolar.com/battery-fuses-isolator-for-off-grid-solar-inverter-nh00-80a-fuses-switch.html

@IgorM Didn't work. @Dat--Boi The lack of access is the problem, probably noting wrong with the router/modem itself. I btw read you guys answers immediately, just forgot to reply. Internett is still down… the ISP customer support will just ask me to turn it off and on again, so I wont even bother calling them. I called the guys who control the smart meters in my area, they would not do it cuz of rules. Got a tip to call their under division, but had to do it in their opening hours which i missed.

I'm in a pinch here. Our landlord is on vacation and the modem/router/switch (unknown gear) is acting up and located upstairs in his part of the house. This experience have mede me rethink my choices in life, like choosing streaming over physical media... Is there a way to restart it, like a command to run, so it reboots? I want to turn it of and on again. I have the option of playing a round of roulette by flipping fuses at the street fusebox… but imo that is taking it a little far. Starting to get desperate tho, feels like I'm living in the woods of a undeveloped country. I'm logge into the wifi, so thats all I have to work with. Got a not completed ethernet cable I can try get working if it makes access easier. When trying to run adresses in the browser I sometimes get redirected to the address below, so It's some asus router and probably a ZyXEL P2812ac combo unit. http://router.asus.com/error_page.htm?flag=6 Wise tips appreciated while I detox.

@Cavalry Canuck I too install coax when given the chance to run new cables (I'm a sparky), even tho todays use of it (at least in Norway) is limited. People usually go for IP-TV when given the choice. IP-TV usually requires fibre service (or a high speed copper connection). It also requires 1 dedicated ethernet line to each TV. IP-TV has the advantage of higher quality and you get a good deal when you order together with your regular internett, as the ISP provides you both services. The cable-tv/satellite-tv providers basically marks up the price because you have no other choice in your area, or are restricted by building rules (not allowed to put up satellite dish etc.) What I do is run pre-pulled 20mm corrugated tubes with 1xRG6+2xCat6 inside. Use 22mm ship auger drill-bit to make holes in the studs. That way you only pull 1 tube to each spot you imagine someone would put a TV. (notice: if you cant get your hands on pre-pulled tubes, go up to 25mm. Pulling 3 cables in a 20mm after you add bends will result in a lot of swearing.) Then we drill a 73mm hole with a hole-saw and insert a orange/red box and connect the tube to the box. Its all terminated in a wallplate with all 3 connectors neatly stacked in a triangel. I'm not sugesting that you go out of your way to obtain these specific norwegian items, you probably have similar gear in your country. I know its common to pull cables in walls without the use of tubes everywhere else in the world, guess we are the strange ones for using it ^^ Btw, there are other styles and colors to the wallplate - i just displayed a basic one. https://issuu.com/teccon/docs/7316_teccon_prisliste/4 http://proff.elko.no/trippeluttak-2xutp-1x-antenne/rs16-mod-i-2xutp-c6-1xf-f-hun-article2121-844.html http://proff.elko.no/bokser/category594.html (left side at the bottom, #12 515 66)

Restart and update to stay in support Support for the Windows 10 April 2018 Update end in November 2019. Restart to install a supported version of Windows. [Pick a time] [Restart tonight] [Restart now] __________________________________________ Hate to be "that" person, but is this legitimate? Windows normally dont ask nice and discrete to be updated/restarted. The reason for my "paranoia" is the timing, as I just earlier today downloaded some Chrome extensions: a few google analytics & tag related. I also visited random websites to gain the knowledge to opperate them. Nothing alarming tho, general explainers of google analytics & tags, general explainers about website domains, general explainers about DoS. Windows Defender Security Center showed a yellow icon 3 sec ago, I clicked on it to see what it wanted to tell me. It then said "everything's OK" and turned green. Could just be random. The update message is overlapping the screen, so its on top which is unusual. It removed itself as I wrote this, and is now living in the notification tab in the right corner. Just wanted to hear what you guys think.

Hello again, I need inputs and help to plan this. We have a recently built a storage unit on our property that we want internet in. Its located too far away for copper cables to be an option, so I guess fibre is the only option. (Left side = house. Right side = storage unit) Requirements: * 500m length * 1-2 access points for "lite use" (google-ing manuals etc.) * 3-6 cameras for surveillance - stream have to be returned (to house), as the NVR wont be located in the storage unit. * 10GbE capable fibre cable (future proofing), the current hardware wont need to support this speed tho. * Possibility to continue the run to the houses around (right side) if desired. The use of the internet in this building is questionable, as apparently its gonna be used for... nothing? Non the less, I'm asked to make it happen. Gonna slap some cameras on the walls around/inside, as it houses values like farm equipment, cars and tools. The building will get a smal rack, fibre patch, ethernet patch and a 8-port PoE switch. That is alteas how far I have planed. I've done some research: a media converter, 110mm-ish tubing (to shield the fibre), OM5 multimode fibre (capped at 400m?) Should i blow the fibre instead? Does single-mode fibre equal unlimited bandwidth, and solves any capacity problem? What is the correct way to do this, as a solution offered to a professional client? What is the cheap way to do it, the DIY option? The price range of this project is kinda' wide open, as its no cheap way to pull this off without digging. When the trench is dugg up, we will also slap down a beefy power cable as the building also lacks electricity. ~~ Links ~~ LLT forum tread: short range high speed point to point Random media converter that popped up on google-search

This caught my attention. Is this still working or have it been shut down. If so, what metods/tools are working atm. I remember it got some coverage by media 1-2 years ago because of GF's got in-sight of what their BF's did on FB ? ~~ Link: AFS, Advanced Facebook Search ~~ https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/afs/gckmgjhcejhnfenfbippohhnfjkeaapj ~~Link: where it says its shut down ~~ https://techcrunch.com/2019/06/10/changes-to-facebook-graph-search-leaves-online-investigators-in-a-lurch/ ~~ Link: where they claim its not down ~~ https://www.sourcecon.com/yes-you-can-still-search-facebook/ ~~ Link: YouTube, 5 min long video about how it used to be ~~ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyCsWGl7pLo

5 years ago, me and some friends used to lay on our backs and get the 2 others to drop medicine balls on the stomach from 1,5m height - this was to train the stomach muscles and “train pain”, simulating punches. Ofc did regular stomach exercises in combination with this bullshit. We progressed pretty well and ended on 12kg balls, but if this actually made “sense”, we will never know - as we got so huge and stronk nobody dared to punch us ?

If you want them waves to come inside, install something like this stuff. The one pictured is 4g --> wi-fi only, but there exists other stuff. My work had a smal base station thing (40cm high, 5kg) that plugged into a power outlet, it was given to us (free) by the cell provider(s) to fix signal problems in our office, guess that what you are looking for, a plugg-and-play system. (I'm not concerned about the wi-fi key showing, gl finding this place)

@circeseye @Trik'Stari TY guys, case solved

20cm of parallel cable won’t affect your performance in any meaningful way for home (hobby) use - don't worry about it. I have done x10 worse stuff and gotten away with it (quality within specs verified with $10k+ fluke instruments). ____________________________________ (Are your having special problems with EMF in your area? Clean up the pollution source. It most likely is a piece of old equipment or some cheap china equipment that dont comply with EMC-rules. This equipment can be installed in your own house/your neighbors house/any house connected to the same transformator you are connected to.)

Hi ? I could have posted this question on a car forum, but tech guys are pretty into zombie movies (my stereotype at least) - so you guys are just as qualified ? Im looking for the coupe car with the giant hood scoop the hero is driving in Zombie Hunter (from 2013). https://m.imdb.com/title/tt2446502/ My closest guess is that its some 1987 mustang gt, but it don't match with the round body. Its some american car. Any ideas? Attached in the link: 1 million bad quality pictures taken with my “picture phone” - of my low resolution laptop screen. https://m.imgur.com/a/WP40zDQ

1. I’m not qualified to comment on the cable specs, but your job sound small (approx. 50-75 meters total?). It would not dent your wallet hard to just pre-measure the lengths needed and buy them in cat6. Contractors are often stuck with leftover cable that isn't long enough to keep (10-20 meter), if you ask politely you can get your hand on these for free. Your switch/router & all the equipment (tv/pc/n-shield) most likely only support 1Gps, which is cat6 territory. 2. Wire most efficiently? Install trunking in the room where the router/tv/ps4/steamlink is, you can chose to go in the corner of the roof or the corner on the floor. Chose size/type depending what molding you have (you can remove some of it and replace it with a trunking). Invest some time make it pretty and do clean straight cuts. You will have to use screws or permanent glue to fasten trunking, the tape options don’t work. Be aware you will need some extra meters of trunking for error-cuts and avoiding using many smal pieces. A fine saw (also called multi cutter) is highly recommended if you have to modify the molding. Note: drywall/wood/concrete, there are variations of fastening to fit your need. Use the folding rule to mark up 90degre cuts. Its a benefit to have a newer plastic folding ruler, grandpa's old relic wont do. You cut the trunking with a hack-/band-/circular-/fein saw. Corners: dont attempt to do 2x45degre corner cuts as a noob, it is hard and will never look as good as the store bought corners. Imo are fiddling with corners (as whole) unnecessary, it creates more joints which also are aesthetically unwanted. Endings, joints, trays: 3 last pictures. Lazy/pro-tip for trunking: use angle grinder with tuch-up disc. Its perfect for tidying plastics. Gives you that smooth melted mellow edge your looking for. In lack of angle grinder, use knife to scrape off unevenness. // You say you have a attic, run a trunking vertically (up) to reach the attic. As you can see on the three pictures bellow. (10x13mm trunking, trying to hide a 16mm tube comming from attic… not working out very well - gave the carpenter/painter the task to apply acryl paste) Smaller trunking have a problem hiding the drill hole (pluss the drill often scratch the wall if unexperienced). To counter this, chose a larger than needed trunking. Other way to sove it is with acryl filler. // There also exists molding ment to hide cables, but those are a little pricy. The moldings portrayed are rated to hold 230V, but can of course hold Cat6's instead. Note: dont mix signaling and high current cables, you might be victim to interference. Keep in mind you have to replace all the molding in the entire room to gain beauty points. (This molding is made out of some fireproof material, for ethernet cables you can cheap out and get something made of wood etc.) // A 20mm tube can hold 3xCat6. These are the tools you need. Corrugated is usually used hidden inside walls, but works just as good on the outside if you apply a shit ton of clips to it. // Uppermost tube: 32mm hard tubing with the bend made out of 2x joints and 15cm corrugated. On the picture it is protecting Kevlar-shielded 4pair fibre cables, "fibre cat6's". // Usually used for single runs, requiring little strengt. Note: drywall/wood/concrete, there are variations of fastening to fit your need. // Usually used for more rugged stuff, especially holding tubing. Note: drywall/wood/concrete, there are variations of fastening to fit your need. // Off topic, I’m doing something similar atm at my own place, and I chose to run 3x50mm empty corrugated tubes from the basement where my modem/router is located to the attic as futureproofing. In addition to that there is like 5 blue 20mm tubes containing 2xCat6+1xCoax to the rooms requiring hardwired. An access point is already installed on 1st floor, another one planned for 2nd. Interference between the 230V cables (grey tubes) and the signal cables (blue) is a fear of mine, but I have experienced that it mostly isn’t a issue for normal use. If the problem shows up, I can open the box the cables run in and divide the signaling with galvanics. (ap = nano-hd) 3. I duno where you live, here in Norway we use these orange boxes (73mm) for hidden applications and the big white square for on-wall. The key-stone plate can hold 3xCat6 on a 83x83mm square. (replace the sat-tv with a cat-6 keystone to get 3xCat6) // Dropping random pictures as inspiration. (trunkings are fantastic, all that mess hidden in a 123x72mm) (fusebox-info erased of respect to customer & my firm) (white tube is corrugated tubing, yellow is a grounding cable about same size as a ethernet cable) The cables can be fastened on the outside of the house too - or under it (if there are room to crawl) // Sincerely a electrician.

I'm planning a setup and with a 45cm deep rack. I got my eyes on the rs816/rs217 witch fits when you mount them the 2-post way (they are about 30cm deep), but would want them on rails because... ocd reasons. I emailed Synology about it and they replied that they didn't offer an solution. Have anyone experience with chopping/modding the rails or using other rails to do this? Link for the original rails: https://www.synology.com/en-us/products/RKS1317

@NelizMastr & @scottyseng. Ordered this PoE injector: https://www.dustin.no/product/5011057517/tpe-115gi-gigabit-poe-injector How is it with the Ubiquiti In-Wall HD access point, is it just as good? (it has the same specs atleast) It is what I plan to use on the bathroom. Reason i need it to be on the wall is the room gets misty as **** when the shower is in use and its aesthetically more pleasing to place it on the wall cuz the fan already is occupying center of the celling. But, could the Nano be mounted vertical on wall without losing speed? #funfact #firstworldproblems The bathroom is 4 square meters, and half of it is shower. This room has #1 priority for high-speed internett ? Link to the product in question bellow: https://inwall-hd.ubnt.com/ @scottyseng I have pulled the cables myself. I have had a experience or two with bad working positions in attics and "earth-basements" as an electrician. It can be very crap sometimes. That is why I have limited knowledge with the networking setup and products, as I mostly pull cables and do physical setup. Its good to be a student now tho ? eating noodles for every meal.

PoE switch is to come, I will have to drive it on PoE injector for the next 3-4 months. Doing mesh is what I aim for. 1 for each floor and one for a toilet that by some strange reason stops all signals even tho its 4m away from the transmitter.

Not sure what "LAG the AC-Pro ethernet ports" means, but I was planning on using one cable for now and saving the other for the future - unless i can use them both and duble the speed. I've installed about 50 of the PRO's and never used the secondary port. I was told it was for when u needed to continue the cable or something. The extra cat6 cable gets installed because my cables come in 20mm pre-pulled corrugated pipes with options of 2xcat6+coax, 2xcat6, 1xcat6 - and i only had the first 2 options on hand at installation day + its for myself, and i like to spoil myself.

Hello again. I'm ordering a access point today/monday to test out if 1 AP covers enough of the rooms (entire 1. floor) or if I should do 2 APs each floor. Ubiquiti have this new nanoHD that looks similar to the AC-PRO, have a smaler size and higher speed (1300 vs. 1733), and about the identical price. Its also something about a 3x3 vs 4x4 MIMO (?), loosing the secondary port (?), and not being able to aggregate (?). I were kinda ready to jump on the nanoHD for future proofing reasons - until I unfortunately read the YT comments and got scared by big words and stuff. Little info about what the use will be: - Normal home stuff. There will be plenty cat6 outlets everywhere to drive desktop PCs and internett TVs. Only laptops and phones will use wireless, maybe 1 PS4. - There will be 2xcat6 available for each AP. - Minimum 3 APs will be installed. So the question is, which to chose. // Homesites to the two APs below: https://unifi-nanohd.ubnt.com/ https://www.ubnt.com/unifi/unifi-ap-ac-pro/ //

I was mainly looking for the shelf/panel/box similar to what @Admiral Koba found, On the pictures the handles look more shiny, but that's maybe wrongly displayed on the shopping site. What is the purpose of that box/shelf? It dont look easily accessible like a drawer.

On the demo video, the cables look flatt. Are the cables 2-pair cables? Copy&pasted from technical information: Cat. 6 STP (shielded), 250MHz, AWG36, 100% stranded copper, PVC jacket, 10Gbit ready

What rack brand/model is shown on these pictures? The blanking panels with handles is what caught my attention. (I'm aware that the handles most likely are for esthetics only) Hoped the IT guys would know. Original pictures on their website, customer service did not know. https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-routing/unifi-security-gateway-pro-4/ https://www.ubnt.com/unifi-switching/unifi-switch-16-150w/

An add on my Facebook feed featured this patch "thing". I used the search function on the forum, and it has not been talked about - yet. Anyone who have tried it out? They had av video dating back to 2015 on YT, so its not a new item. Their shop in link below. They had 35cm and 60cm versions. https://patchbox.com/shop

@SuperCloneRanger Thanks, good answer ? I will look into what's physical possible to install.

@SuperCloneRanger Cat-6 cable - PoE. No existing cctv sytem or cameras. About 3-4 other other cameras are planed, but those are going to be normal cameras like the G3 lineup from Ubiquiti or something else, nothings decided. I will put up around 12 empty tubes for later, so that if anyone wants they can go ham with more cameras. I dont know anything about cameras or networking, as a electrician all I know is pull cables. I will most likely put up the cables and let someone else pick the correct cameras&switches, but this door camera needs some attention to aesthetics. It might require me to open the wall to put in a spotlight box to recess the camera according to what i decide on. The budget is unlimited for this one camera. The total budget is also pretty unlimited, its more about deciding on something reasonable that isn't overkill. Q1 - Are there problems with mixing different cameras in a cctv system? Q2 - Can one set up a pad/tablet to monitor one camera (the door) for example to be lazy and dont get out of bed when its the girl scouts selling cookies. Q3 - How far can a wideangle camera see - before one should rather pick a directional camera? Q4 - Are the Ubiquiti cameras/software good?