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If it is not the cable or hopefully the MB, then it could very well be a bad update corrupted something. I had a windows update make my onboard ethernet adapter stop working until I reinstalled windows for the 4th time and didn't do that particular windows update and it was working fine after that. the point is that not all updates are designed for your specific setup and will often have drivers and/or settings for different hardware that will mess up your setup. I would roll back to a earlier point before the most recent updates you did and noticed the issue and see if that works before suspecting the MB ethernet went belly up. Hope that helps troubleshoot some. If that doesn't fix it then I think your gonna be pissed. LOL

The different cable is being used right now and the same problem is happening. i also just tried both ethernet jacks on the motherboard. Same result. And i tried 2 jacks on the router. Same result.

I got this motherboard earlier this year. maybe 7-8 months ago. Its a 700 dollar motherboard ill be pissed if something is physically wrong with it! lol

And 100% definitely this has NOT always been happening. i have always downloaded or updated games in the background and watched youtube while i waited for them. Thats my routine. I know it well. I remember the very day it started happening. i have like 20-25 games on steam and 3 or 4 on battle net, 3 on origin, and a few on a few other platforms and all things are kept up to date. Immediately upon a update being released i am right on it keeping evrything current and every time, im on youtube (AAANNNDDDD usually 2-3-4 other tabs at the same time) while it downloads.

I'm at a loss. Ive never seen this before. Ive exhausted my knowledge on how to fix it. Hence the post on LTT

I would eliminate the simple stuff first. Update network drivers / replace ethernet cable, etc.

Ok, i'm not sure then. Maybe someone else can help you out. Hope you figure it out soon!

Set Vcore voltage to ADAPTIVE. This will allow voltage to only ramp up to that voltage when CPU goes full throttle. When it lowers the clock it'll also drop voltages. Had it set this way on my MSI board. I later found out AUTO actually uses basically the same voltages so I now just have it on AUTO.

Id just go for a 4.8ghz or 4.9ghz all core if you have to be a 1.4v to hit 5ghz, as that voltage is pretty high. Your not setting turbo any higher though.
 
 

By default your system does this, it will only run at the speeds it needs to.
 
The base speed means basically nothing for desktops these days, its always running at turbo speeds if you need performance, and much lower if you don't.
 
Id just make sure your oc lets speedstep still be enabled, so it clocks down at idle, and uses a voltage ofset, and you basically get what you want here.

You're welcome buddy, good luck. 👍

Time to retire R15. Use Cinebench R20 or R23 instead. The newer versions are compiled to take advantage of the AVX instruction set that the 9900K supports. 
 
Cinebench R20 
https://www.techpowerup.com/download/maxon-cinebench/
 
Cinebench R23
https://www.maxon.net/en/downloads
 
Scroll halfway down the page at Maxon for the Cinebench R23 download link. 
 
For 24/7 use, maybe you will have to stay with all cores at 4.9 GHz. When you have an 8 core CPU with hyperthreading, a 2% difference in CPU speed is not exactly something you are ever going to notice. 

likely just silicon lottery if you are sure about the load settings. 200w on a 360 aio should be fine. 
 
BTW there aren't 1.3v 5.3 chips out there for 24/7 use, don't trust random benches online. 5.2 avx 1.35v was top 2%, and that was before the 9900ks binning ruined the 9900k.

I see you have figured that out yourself already 😁
 
But...'Tech Jesus' deep-dive explanation (in case you are curious)
 

One thing I noticed in your screenshot is that you have the core ratio set to 47 and the cache ratio set to 50. Most people do the opposite. If the core is set to 50 then the cache is usually set to 47. If you set the cache speed too high, this can cause instability. If you accidentally set this in XTU then change it back. Make sure your BIOS has these two ratios set correctly.

i usually dont use XTU at all, i just had it up so i could see if it said it was throttling. Ive never overclocked via xtu or anything. i have like a week experience with it. lol. id much rather handle everything through bios.

But ok awesome, i feel like progress is being made finally. I'm gonna take a pic of that on my phone and follow the instructions to a T. I shall respond with said screenshots. Thanks man, i really appreciate it!

The 9900K has a 95W TDP rating. At default settings, the motherboard will set the long term turbo power limit to 95W. That is not nearly enough power for your CPU to run a stress test at full speed. The CPU will be forced to slow down so it does not exceed 95W. That is what you are seeing and that is what ThrottleStop and XTU are reporting. Intel XTU shows Package TDP at 95W and ThrottleStop shows (Package) PKG Power at 95.1W.
 
To get full performance out of your CPU, the turbo power limits need to be set much higher than this. Look in your BIOS in the CPU Features menu for Long Duration Power Limit and Short Duration Power Limit. Set both of these power limits to 1023 Watts so they do not interfere with maximum performance.
 
When you boot back up, before you start ThrottleStop, delete the ThrottleStop.INI configuration file so ThrottleStop can start up with a clean slate. When ThrottleStop starts and it does not find a config file, it will read all of its settings from the CPU. Post a screenshot of the TPL window and a screenshot of the FIVR window so I can see how your BIOS is setting your CPU. Exit Speccy and exit XTU. Both ThrottleStop and XTU can write information to the CPU registers. It is best not to have two different programs writing different values to the same CPU registers. 
 
If you are going to use XTU, exit ThrottleStop before you run XTU. If you set the turbo power limits appropriately in the BIOS, you should not need to use either program long term. 

I just did a quick Google search and that was the first thing that popped up that looked sort of familiar.
 
Try uninstalling MSI Dragon Center. Reboot and see if things improve. If not, run ThrottleStop. Post some pictures while your CPU is loaded and throttling and I should be able to tell you what is going on. The Limit Reasons window will show if you have a power limit throttling problem or some other type of throttling.

Are you running MSI Command Center or any similar software on your computer? Either the BIOS or some software on your computer is not setting the turbo power limits correctly. This has been a common problem recently on computers with MSI boards.
 
Delete Command Center if it is running on your computer. If that does not work, go into the BIOS and set the turbo power limits manually. A setting of 1023W for the long and short turbo power limits is plenty. The maximum value the CPU can recognize is 4095.875. Some dumb software is rounding that off to 4096 which does the opposite of what one would think. Adding 1 more to this register overloads it and causes the register to wrap around so the power limits are being set to 0W instead of 4096W. Power limit throttling is the result.
 
If this does not fix your problem, run ThrottleStop and click on the TPL button to open the Turbo Power Limits window. Make sure your power limits are set appropriately in that window. Open Limit Reasons to check for throttling. Run a simple stress test like the built in TS Bench test. What CPU speed does ThrottleStop report and what does Limit Reasons show. Post some ThrottleStop screenshots if you need help figuring this out. Delete XTU before running ThrottleStop if XTU is not solving your problem.

It's not lowering the lifespan tho. These cards are technically designed to run at full boost 24/7 basically so don't worry about it.

It’s performing as intended. Not sure what you were expecting. 
 
Use nvidia inspector and setup multi monitor power saver. 
 
Could try it’s fan software as well. Assuming you are actually deleting all the other software installed before using another. 

So it just clocks high, don't see why that would bother you. Has nothing to do with load. 
 
Cant say much about the fan control, I dont by that brand for a few reasons. Normally programs give me fan control without issues. Maybe try another one.

Oh boy, I'm not overly familiar with the Jumper, but if it supports FR-Sky receivers and your quad supports one too, you're good.
No. Not without scrapping all of its electronics.
As in TBS Crossfire? Crossfire is just a radio module that operates at a lower frequency to enable much longer range flights. Model management is handled by your radio such as the Jumper.
Plug into a sim first, learn the controls. An FPV drone is a completely different beast from anything DJI, you're completely on your own. You make all the adjustments and that the computer does on a DJI.
Look up Josh Bardwell's videos on the T18
Not sure what you mean by this, but it sounds like some marketing stuff
probably just a compatible receiver, but I'm not familiar with that particular aircraft.
 
Hope this helps, but google is a much better resource.
 

Ayyy I gotchu fam. 
 
Ooooohkay, so first of all all DJI products are hardware locked - like Apple products. You cannot use a 3rd party controller like a T18. No chance. You're locked in with what you have. As a flying camera platform they're relatively well designed, for that purpose and that purpose only
 
5-in-1 refers to the radio control protocol. These are 2.4GHz control protocols, specifically  R9, DSM2/X, FrSKY, SFHSS, FlySky, FlySky AFHDS2A, Hubsan and some others (this is right off the Jumper T18 info page for the JP5-in-1 Multi-protocol module). Read the product listings, its where the info is. Of course places that have it want to sell it to you, doesnt mean you have to buy it.. Because it is multi function you should be able to get all your existing flysky stuff to work, it might just be a bit of a run around getting the settings right. 
 
I like DSMX personally, but lots of people swear by FrSky. Avoid Flysky, their firmware proliferation is confusing and complicated. 
 
If you can afford it, go Crossfire. I did, I will never look back. It just works, and that matters a LOT when you're flying a few hundred dollars around. My video link dies before radio and that's super important. Nothing quite like having a perfect view as your model nosedives into the dirt...
 
Your questions are kinda all over the place and don't make a ton of sense, so all I can really say is that the multiprotocol module in the T18 should work with what you have. What you decide to run as a reciever in your models is ultimately up to you, crossfire is worth the money in my mind and the new TBS Tracer system (crossfire's new younger brother)  is pretty appealing cost wise, and has all the great software behind it if you dont want to go true crossfire. 
 

The problem is this is all better done at the design stage and built into the product.
 
Heat control you could have multiple elements, say 2 of the same size and a 3 position switch that switches one or both in for high or low.
 
The motor can be a type with different windings/poles you can switch between for different speeds.
 
Much harder to retrofit these sort of things after.

Potentiometers aren't at all designed for power control. Like it's not even close.
 
A bulky variable resistor (also known as rheostat) could do the job, but it's a terrible solution as it produces loads of heat and wastes power.
 
A chopper based circuit of somekind (like a light dimmer) would be best, but chopper based power controllers for very high power loads (such as heatguns) can be expensive. 
 
What I would certainly suggest is that whatever you do, instead of trying to build the power controller into the heatgun, build it as a standalone device with a power outlet on it, that you can then plug the heatgun into. That way you avoid modding the device itself, and you have the added bonus of being able to control the power level of other machines as well (this can be great for all sorts of tools). 
 

Well, whether or not it can handle it, that's something I don't know.
A heatgun typically take up 1500W. At 110V, that's nearly 14A. Would the dimmer able to handle it? ... I don't know.
But well, it can be a fun experiment. As an electrical student I would certainly love do to something like that for funsies instead of playing around with motors. What could possibly go wrong, right?

Unless you know exactly what you're doing, don't play with the 110VAC side of electronics. Just buy the heatgun that has the features you want/need. The effort really isn't worth the risk of electrocuting yourself or combusting your domicile.
 
At the level of power being drawn, pretty much any pot would vaporize itself almost instantly. Any energy not being used by the heatgun needs to be dissipated (as, ironically, heat) by the voltage divider (which is dangerous and inefficient). You'd need some sort of AC chopper (like a household dimmer switch) for the heat side, but AC motors may be harder to regulate (if they don't start properly, they'll stall and windings will melt).