theoflow

If we assume you just want a great gaming experience and not chasing ultimate fps, you don't really need much more CPU. 6c6t of current is on the low side so could hold back more demanding games. 
 
I'd consider the easy option first: what better CPUs does your mobo support, and how are they looking on the used market where you are? Keeping in mind you can sell the old CPU to help offset that. Moving to a 6c12t i7 of same gen would be a modest increase. Better 8c16t of the refresh gen (9900k?), but I doubt they'll be cheap enough that buying new CPU/mobo would start looking more attractive.
 
I'd target an 8c16t CPU in general for gaming, more to help the lows than the average fps. Comet Lake/Rocket Lake if you can find it used at good price could be interesting too, but they will need a mobo to go with them. Alder Lake should be good but consider you may need to move to Win11 if not already. AMD side 5800X is obvious choice to me. No need to go high end mobo since OC is pretty dead. Decent mid range board for any of these will suffice.

Ok, that changes things a bit since I was working on the assumption a quick upgrade to CPU only might be an easy path.
 
An Alder Lake CPU with some B660 chipset mobo is probably optimal then. Older gen CPUs sold new don't tend to drop much in price.

Cinebench r23 scores are pretty representative : https://nanoreview.net/en/cpu-list/cinebench-scores
Note that the 12600K can be overclocked (with good cooling and a Z690 board), but neither the 12700 nor 12700F

I'd say a 12600K if you plan for mostly gaming, but for Adobe a 12700 will be tad faster
 

AFAIK intel perfroms better than amd In Adobe unless it's the 5950x
I'd get a 12700f, a mobo like the Asus prime b660 plus, and the cheapest kit of 32gb ram.
Like this https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WsxprD
 

I think this is a great method! I use the G815 (wired version) with a USB switch between my work laptop and gaming PC, and have been dailying this for over a year. I did get a wrist-rest, but otherwise encountered no ergonomic issues or fatigue, even with hours of use. Using the G915 sounds like an equally useful wireless connection.
 
For a mouse, I personally went with 2 (G502 and MX Master), but if you get a logitech mouse with multiple device support, you could accomplish the same. When I used to game with the MX Master, I paired it with my work laptop, personal laptop, and gaming tower, mixing bluetooth and unifying receiver where necessary.

Well, based on your preferred choice, both are an excellent peripheral. Perhaps for the mouse, you can do anything with it or else you can opt for buy a rechargeable battery. But if your budget is more than you can afford the G603, you can try Logitech G703 lightspeed since it had a rechargeable battery. For keyboard, it's kinda impossible to have design like  Microsoft Sculpt. For me i like to use Logitech G610 since it is using Cherry MX Blue switch. It's depend on your preferences. Do you want to have nice typing experience or comfort..

If you're looking at that budget then consider a Vizio.  Since you have a Shield the stupid apps won't be a concern.  The Vizio M line should do well for you just know there are budget M series sets and the good M series sets.  I think they differentiate by M7 and M8 with the latter being the good set.  
 
https://smile.amazon.com/VIZIO-Quantum-Class-Diag-Smart/dp/B07RFNWW8Y/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=vizio+m8&qid=1590538289&sr=8-1
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/vizio-55-class-led-m-series-quantum-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr/6345457.p?skuId=6345457
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/vizio/m-series-quantum-2019
 
Check out rtings.com for solid reviews of TVs.  They also have a YouTube channel.    
 
A TCL probably won't be bad either.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/tcl-55-class-led-6-series-2160p-smart-4k-uhd-tv-with-hdr-roku-tv/6367716.p?skuId=6367716
https://www.rtings.com/tv/reviews/tcl/6-series-r625-2019
 
From what I've seen from LG reviews at that price point the other two brands perform better.  Though you may find more gracious reviews.  

Hey all,
 
UPDATE: I went cheapish for this build since I don't need much computing power and will spend the most on the GPU.
 
Here is what I went with https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZcRpmq
 
With the newegg masterpass, ebay 15% off, and google express 25% codes running around I just pulled the trigger.
 
Now all I have to do is wait for nvidia to drop a new GPU. I think I will order a 1070ti on Aug 19th and then decide to return it or not based on the new cards.

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zBQTzY
This is what I would recommend for you with what ever case and hdd/ssd you like but my list leaves you with about $350 for those and is full RGB with very high performance. 

he might be better of with ryzen7 2700 for this build it has more cores and a much higher clock speed for that price range. this might do a little better for him and its full RGB for a little less than your list.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zBQTzY

for the first question Linus did a video on it which can be found here - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_Yt4vSZKVk
 
the second question is a little harder, when i first started building my computer i did not have a case, i just ran it on a box until i could afford a case (money was quite tight at the time) but there are probably a few people on the forums that will say that that is a extremely bad idea. it all just comes down to the fact of what you would prefer (with motherboard and psu you can jerry rig the system until a case can be brought)
 
prices will always drop as there is new technology that makes it both faster and easier to manufacture. personally with my new setup i am moving to a m2 NVME drive just to make use of the extra speed for the boot drive as i feel that my system will not be a bottleneck for it (hopefully getting a 12 core i9 or the latest i7, as i love gaming but video editing is something that im new to and think that the more cores will help me there) but a SSD is probably more worth it in price as i can get a 1TB SSD for the same price as a 250GB NVME Drive unless you feel that even those already fast speeds will be a bottleneck
 

1. Budget & Location
Location: New York City (Some e-tailers charge sales tax in NY State)
Budget:   Max is $1,500, but I’d like to save where I can. I don’t mind spending money, but I don’t want to waste money on pieces that have overclocking headroom because I will be doing zero of that. My personality likes to tinker, but I can’t devote the time to go down that rabbit hole
 
The plan is to partially build my computer now because I am moving and would rather build a new unit at the new apartment. However, I am willing to wait until after Nvidia announces the new Turing based GPU in late August to purchase that or something else.
 
I wanted to get the ball rolling to keep an eye out for parts now that RAM prices are becoming reasonable. I can build the system out and use my current video card in the new system to hold me over.
 
2. Aim
Gaming all the AAA tiles on single play that currently exists at high or highest quality. I am too old to have time to play multiplayer, so super high frame rates is not as important to me.
Some Adobe Photoshop and some Premiere eventually as a hobby.
 
3. Monitors
I plan to be running the current Dell U3415W which has a 3440 x 1440 resolution. I don’t plan on multi-monitor support at all.
 
4. Peripherals
I have all the peripherals I need and have Windows 10 already. But you never know what shiny RGB gadget hypnotizes me.
 
5. Why are you upgrading?
I have a Core2 Duo computer with 16GB of RAM and GTX 560 card so anything can be an upgrade at this point. Ever since I upgraded to my ultrawide, I didn’t even attempt to run games because I knew it would not be a good experience.
 
6. My personal thoughts/ideas
CPU - I would like an Intel 8th gen i5. I don’t see a need for an i7, but ya’ll can correct me if I’m wrong. I heard Adobe released an optimization for Intel processors recently, so that is pushing me away from anything Ryzen. Again, ya’ll can correct me if I am wrong.
CPU Cooler – Nothing fancy, but quiet and possibly fanless would be a plus
Motherboard – I just want a solid board with nVMe support and USB 3 Type C header support. Doesn’t need to overlock. I am assuming ATX because it has the best price to performance ratio nowadays.
RAM – I would like 16GB and haven’t seen a need for 32. No clue about what speed/timings the newer processors need to run optimally, but I don’t want to overpay for “fast” memory to overlock
CASE – I don’t care about windows or lighting. I just want a well-built case with good airflow and a Type C USB port.
GPU – Right off the bat, I’m willing to pay up to $600 for a GPU. However, there aren’t a lot of benchmarks for AAA FPS titles with ultrawides at close to max settings? I simply don’t know if a 1070ti/1080/1080ti would be adequate or not. In terms of “futureproofing”, I personally don’t think game engines will get more demanding, but the push for 4K HDR will require higher GPU performance. Being that I’m not going to upgrade my monitor in the next two years or so, what do I really need?
Power Supply – This is a bit tricky since we don’t know the requirements for the eventual Turing GPU. But I assume a 700W Gold will work? At worst, I can get the minimum needed for a 1080Ti and a i5?
Hard Drives – I have a few Samsung 950 SSD’s and think they are fine. I wouldn’t mind getting a 256GB NVME drive and using the 950’s for storage. I have various external spinning drives already for backups.
 
That’s all I got for now and to everyone, thanks in advance!
 
 
 

that's similar to what i did, just realised mine was Australian pricing which is shit haha

Oh wait, I read the post again and realized you already had an ultrawide lol
 
Heres a better list https://pcpartpicker.com/list/z2wpmq
 
The remainder of the budget can be used to get the 1180 as that should be around 500 - 600 usd

They left the tick took cycle with Kaby lake. The main issue is that there might be a new chipset, which would mean that the current motherboard would have no upgrade path. 
 
if you want, you can build everything without the graphics card for now, and insert a new one when they arrive. I would assume that the 1160 would be around 250 dollars msrp 
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/z2wpmq
 

The added performance of an i7 is a good investment. It should extend the useful lifetime of the system as software tends to be more demanding of cpu resources every update.
 
There is not a lot of choice currently when it comes to motherboards with a USB 3.1 gen 2 type C header. Even fewer cases that provide a matching type c port.
 
750W is probably far more psu capacity than needed, but it won't hurt to have that much.
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($319.89 @ OutletPC) 
CPU Cooler: CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler  ($34.89 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: MSI - H370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($130.32 @ Amazon) 
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($157.88 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Samsung - 970 Evo 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($103.31 @ Amazon) 
Case: Corsair - Obsidian Series 500D ATX Mid Tower Case  ($137.45 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($88.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Total: $972.73
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-08-02 12:32 EDT-0400

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/hdPcRJ updated with us pricing haha
$742 vs the AU $1247 
plus the $200 case  brings the total to $942 (as you have the storage devices already)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-8700 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor  ($319.89 @ OutletPC) 
CPU Cooler: Xigmatek - Prime SD1484 90.3 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler  ($16.43 @ Amazon) 
Motherboard: MSI - B360-A PRO ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  ($73.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - Vulcan 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($139.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: ADATA - XPG SX6000 256GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($62.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Toshiba - P300 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($55.89 @ OutletPC) 
Video Card: EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW2 DT Gaming iCX Video Card  ($459.99 @ B&H) 
Case: Corsair - Carbide Series 275R (Black w/Tempered Glass) ATX Mid Tower Case  ($79.99 @ Amazon) 
Power Supply: Rosewill - Capstone 550W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($42.99 @ Newegg) 
Total: $1251.94
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-08-02 11:40 EDT-0400

What do you think of this? 
 
https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hdPcRJ
then this for a case 
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1319561-REG/deepcool_88849_genome_pc_case_with.html
 
I believe a 6gb 1060 will just be enough for 1440p ultrawide especially if they are ran on high rather than ultra. i have my 6gb 1060 playing games on ultra at 1080p (Arma 3 at 55 - 60fps, battlefield 1, easy 60fps on ultra) displaying on one monitor while also running a HD 1080p stream on youtube / watching videos on another (both monitors run through the GPU). but a 1070 or a 1070ti if the extra money could be spent would handle it a lot better than the 1060