Jump to content

theoflow

Member
  • Posts

    25
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by theoflow

  1. I don't plan on selling my older parts, figure I just give them to my nephews to tinker with. I'm apprehensive about getting used parts since it involves more research and like you said the cost might not be worth it. As for MoBo, I 100% agree not needing the higher end of any platform. I'm not OCing, don't need Wi-Fi nor high speed LAN.
  2. Another vote for 12th Gen. Is there any links/resources for 12600 vs. 12700?
  3. I was thinking the same, but didn't necessarily want to go 12th gen if it didn't make an appreciable difference. But with Adobe might just have to bite the bullet and go this way.
  4. Budget (including currency): $800 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: All Games, Adobe CC Suite Other details Nvidia 3070Ti Hi all, I managed to get a 3070Ti right when it was announced at retail and plopped it into my rig running an Intel i5 8500. I didn't bother upgrading the other parts because I didn't want to pay for everything else during the supply shortages. Now that things are normalizing, I could use some advice to upgrade the CPU/MoBo/RAM since I am assuming my performance is now CPU bound and want the best bang for the buck. Does anyone have any suggestions/resources/links to point me in the direction of what new parts I should get so I can ensure performance is adequate to a 3070Ti? I can afford 12th Gen Intel or 6-series AMD but I feel that would be a waste on this system since I don't plan on upgrading the GPU in this rig anytime soon. My next upgrade will be an entire rig purchase so I'm not worried about "future proofing" a build or having any headroom to plop in another CPU/GPU. I was thinking something Intel since it has some performance advantages with Adobe CC, but I haven't really paid enough attention to see if AMD nullified QuickSync. Looking forward to the suggestions
  5. Thanks for the reply, no worries about the delay. I think I am just going to buy that USB splitter that you linked since it will probably fit my purposes and I don't have to spend that much. But I will list my reasons for the returns: - Got notice that I will be heading back to the office over the summer so there isn't a huge need for me to spend $200+ at this point. If I did it March 2020, it would have been a better investment. - I'm just too used to the wrist comfort of my Microsoft Sculpt Keyboard+Mouse combo. Going from a "wide" trying keyboard to a cramped one doesn't feel good and I feel more wrist strain. How/Why people love reduced footprint keyboards for their desktop setup doesn't compute for me. - I bought the wrong G915 TKL with the squishy keys since it was on sale refurbished for $150. Just the squishy keys were very bad for me and didn't like it all. I could purchase the right keys, but again, not really worth the investment right now. - I bought the G604 and didn't like it. The weight with the batteries was not my cup of tea with most of the weight at the rear. I didn't want to have to get used to something that didn't feel right. I also did not like that manual button to toggle between stepped and infinity scrolling.
  6. Thanks for the feedback. Do you have a link to the USB hub switch you were talking about? I didn't think about that solution and it could be another option to explore. Ironic that this feels like going back a decade when KVM switches were more popular than today. As for the ergonomics, I have a comfy wrist pad (bean bag type) for my desktop PC keyboard. I think I just got used to wresting my left hand on the ergo keyboard hand since it is comfortable. I've been looking at the G915 in particular because I also prefer typing downwards with wrists bent downwards, rather than bending wrists upwards. I have the 1st gen MX master mouse and I do like it, but for gaming it is a bit too heavy for me taste. I wish Logitech would make a gaming centric mouse with the free spinning scroll wheel; I miss that feature a lot when I switch from work laptop to home desktop.
  7. Thanks for the feedback. I actually have the G703 now, but it doesn't have bluetooth so I can't really use it for my laptop and I want to avoid switching that USB dongle back and forth all the time. I suppose dongle switching isn't the worst, but it would save some $ by just having to buy the (somewhat expensive) G915.
  8. Hey all, I am looking to simplify my work from home setup and could use some help.i want to go from two sets of keyboard and mouse to just one. Ideally, I would like to get a keyboard and mouse combo that use both bluetooth and wireless dongle. For my work laptop I would like to use the bluetooth connection while the dongle would be for my desktop. Ideally, I want one usb dongle for both keyboard and mouse to make life easier. I was looking at the logitech G915 and a G603 light speed mouse and that seems like the best solution. But figured I would ask before pulling the trigger. IDEALLY, I wish Logitech made an ergonomic shape to the G915 since I do find the ergonomic shape of the Microsoft Sculpt series to really cut down on any fatigue. The G603, I wish they would add a internal battery that is rechargeable
  9. I ended up getting a Hisense 65H8G and very satisfied. A few recap items after a few months of use for anyone that stumbles across this thread: The remote works with my NVIDIA Shield which is great because the remote was always a little "laggy" For me, the brightness is fine. My eyes were actually hurting the first few days and had to reduce brightness and it stays there. Display is quite glossy, but only really noticeable at night which is rectified by turning off a rouge standing lamp The dual position stand is great, I didn't want to have to buy a new TV stand.
  10. Budget (including currency): $1,500 USD (I will pay taxes on top, so don't worry about factoring that in) Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: AAA First Person Shooters, Star Wars Squadrons Other details See Below Double posted in monitor subforum, so if I need to delete one, MODs please let me know which one to get rid of. Hey all, Looking for some monitor upgrade device. I am a big fan of ultrawides since I play games casually and like the immersive experience. With that said, I would like a new monitor that is bigger with a better refresh rate and have a list that is open to any additions I am in a pretty decent position, 2020 wise, working from home and can afford all the top tier gear, but my folks always taught me to not overbuy. I would appreciate everyone's opinions/experiences for some guidance since I don't know it all and first hand experience is always a great thing What I have now: Dell UltraSharp 34 Curved Ultrawide Monitor - U3415W (60Hz) Background info Minimum Resolution 1440p I would like a display with a minimum 120 Hz without having to "overclock" the display I mostly play FPS and simulator games I do not want to spend more than $1,500 (before taxes) Don't worry about my system specs, I will be upgrading to new hardware over the holiday season when the benchmarks come out for Zen3 and Big Navi I am also going to use the new monitor for my laptop as I work from home, mostly Microsoft Office stuff I do some photo editing as a hobby I don't really care much for HDR because I personally haven't seen a need for it. What I am looking at: Samsung Odyssey G9 (~$1,300) - That curve is sexy to me - Yes I am aware of the silent recall, but the local microcenter got the new ones in and can always return if there are problems LG OLED48CXPUB (~$1,500) - Could be better for productivity and more immersive? - This is going to be an ergonomic challenge with my standing desk AOC AG493UCX 49" (~$1,000) - Cheaper alternative to the G9 without the 1000R curve Legion Y44w-10 43.4 Inch WLED Curved Panel HDR Gaming Monitor (~$700) - Plenty big enough, about half the price of the other two, but without GSync Key Questions: Does GSync really make that much of a difference over FreeSync? Random thoughts: With all this new hardware coming out, I think we should have the discussion that the end user's monitor is actually the most important factor for hardware purchase decisions. We buy a monitor based on what we use it for, so thinking of monitor first and then buying the hardware to max it out is the best train of thought. Heck, if we were thinking to upgrade a system, but not upgrading from an old monitor what is the use of all the new hardware if we are capped at 60 FPS by the monitor. Anyway, looking forward to everyone's feedback.
  11. Hey all, Looking for some monitor upgrade device. I am a big fan of ultrawides since I play games casually and like the immersive experience. With that said, I would like a new monitor that is bigger with a better refresh rate and have a list that is open to any additions I am in a pretty decent position, 2020 wise, working from home and can afford all the top tier gear, but my folks always taught me to not overbuy. I would appreciate everyone's opinions/experiences for some guidance since I don't know it all and first hand experience is always a great thing What I have now: Dell UltraSharp 34 Curved Ultrawide Monitor - U3415W (60Hz) What I am looking at: Samsung Odyssey G9 (~$1,300) -That curve is sexy to me - Yes I am aware of the silent recall, but the local microcenter got the new ones in and can always return if there are problems LG OLED48CXPUB (~$1,500) - Could be better for productivity and more immersive? - This is going to be an ergonomic challenge with my standing desk AOC AG493UCX 49" (~$1,000) - Cheaper alternative to the G9 without the 1000R curve Legion Y44w-10 43.4 Inch WLED Curved Panel HDR Gaming Monitor (~$700) - Plenty big enough, about half the price of the other two, but without GSync Misc. Info I live in NYC USA Minimum 1440p I would like a display with a minimum 120 Hz without having to "overclock" the display I mostly play FPS and simulator games I do not want to spend more than $1,500 (before taxes) Don't worry about my system specs, I will be upgrading to new hardware over the holiday season when the benchmarks come out for Zen3 and Big Navi I am also going to use the new monitor for my laptop as I work from home, mostly Microsoft Office stuff I do some photo editing as a hobby I don't really care much for HDR because I personally haven't seen a need for it Key Questions: Does GSync really make that much of a difference over FreeSync? Random thoughts: With all this new hardware coming out, I think we should have the discussion that the end user's monitor is actually the most important factor for hardware purchase decisions. We buy a monitor based on what we use it for, so thinking of monitor first and then buying the hardware to max it out is the best train of thought. Heck, if we were thinking to upgrade a system, but not upgrading from an old monitor what is the use of all the new hardware if we are capped at 60 FPS by the monitor. Anyway, looking forward to everyone's feedback.
  12. Thanks for the reply. I have seen "7" and "8" series terms thrown around so that helps some. I have to refresh my memory on Linus' TCL video again.
  13. Hey Forum, Looking to buy a new TV for watching stuff from streaming services. Could use some help since there are so many options from so many companies. I see various posts on slickdeals all the time and there are so many different options from Samsung, LG, VIZIO, TCL, etc. Is there a link to describe the differences the different tiers of each manufacturer? Couldn't really find anything and a lot of guides are straight to best in class that don't necessarily fit my budget. A few other pieces of info: - I am using an NVIDIA shield, no cable tv service, just internet - i don't care about built in apps - Budget has a hard cap at $650 not including tax - I live in NYC so $ and looking to buy from Amazon, Best Buy or Walmart (I get 5x points) - I am not going to game with it - I don't really care about OLED - I don't really care about HDR - I don't care about a "future proof" display Thanks in advance and if there are any questions that might help inform a recommendation, let me know.
  14. lol...whoops...when multitasking isn't really a thing. I think it is a 2300x series something. Have to check on Tuesday.
  15. I have a 700W Corsair laying around from a previous build. Thanks
  16. I think it is a 2500x series i5. I have to check back on Tuesday when I drop by again
  17. To kill time, just some Star Craft 2, but I do like playing Titanfall 2 from time to time. My older Core2 Duo system wouldn't even let me play it. I'm not gonna play AAA games from the past 2 years on it, I have my home computer for that.
  18. Hey all, I inherited an older computer from a relative and plan on updating some of the parts to use at my parents place when I pet sit. At my apartment I have a better machine, but when I'm visiting I'd like to game a little bit to pass the time. The machine was already a franken build out of an old lenovo thinkcenter. It is an i5 with a Corei5 with 8GB RAM and Windows 10 I have an old SAPPHIRE DUAL-X Radeon R9 280 that I was going to throw in there. My question is, with the 580's dropping to $150, would it be too much GPU for this type of system? I don't mind spending the money, but don't want to waste it. The system will be running on an old DELL ULTRASHARP 2408WFP. Thanks,
  19. I salvaged the Samsung drive from a deceased family friend's stockpile of stuff. Payment was that I had to scrub through 5 HDDs worth of stuff and back it all up.
  20. Hey all, UPDATE: I went cheapish for this build since I don't need much computing power and will spend the most on the GPU. Here is what I went with https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ZcRpmq With the newegg masterpass, ebay 15% off, and google express 25% codes running around I just pulled the trigger. Now all I have to do is wait for nvidia to drop a new GPU. I think I will order a 1070ti on Aug 19th and then decide to return it or not based on the new cards.
  21. Hey all, Tmobile has a discount code for 25% off with a max discount of $40 on google express. Best value is to spend $160 for the full 25% off. Anything higher than that the discount decreases. So should I pick up: A) 16GB RAM How much of a difference would 2666 vs. 3000 make a difference? Will RAM prices continue to drop? Should I wait? B) Motherboard or Powersupply or Case (2 out of 3) Looks like most of the items are listed under Fry's electronics C) SSD Drive I already have two Samsung 850 SSD drives. Is there a big difference between that and a 970 Pro NVME drive? Will memory prices continue to drop? Should I wait?
  22. I could be wrong, but Intel's roadmaps don't look all that promising? Are they still on that tick/tock cycle and they are having trouble getting on higher density silicon? But really...I would rather get this build started sooner rather than later. Because if I keep waiting, I'll end up waiting until Black Friday.
  23. I would prefer it, but not 100% necessary. If it costs me more than $100 to have Type C, then I can live without it.
  24. 1. Budget & Location Location: New York City (Some e-tailers charge sales tax in NY State) Budget: Max is $1,500, but I’d like to save where I can. I don’t mind spending money, but I don’t want to waste money on pieces that have overclocking headroom because I will be doing zero of that. My personality likes to tinker, but I can’t devote the time to go down that rabbit hole The plan is to partially build my computer now because I am moving and would rather build a new unit at the new apartment. However, I am willing to wait until after Nvidia announces the new Turing based GPU in late August to purchase that or something else. I wanted to get the ball rolling to keep an eye out for parts now that RAM prices are becoming reasonable. I can build the system out and use my current video card in the new system to hold me over. 2. Aim Gaming all the AAA tiles on single play that currently exists at high or highest quality. I am too old to have time to play multiplayer, so super high frame rates is not as important to me. Some Adobe Photoshop and some Premiere eventually as a hobby. 3. Monitors I plan to be running the current Dell U3415W which has a 3440 x 1440 resolution. I don’t plan on multi-monitor support at all. 4. Peripherals I have all the peripherals I need and have Windows 10 already. But you never know what shiny RGB gadget hypnotizes me. 5. Why are you upgrading? I have a Core2 Duo computer with 16GB of RAM and GTX 560 card so anything can be an upgrade at this point. Ever since I upgraded to my ultrawide, I didn’t even attempt to run games because I knew it would not be a good experience. 6. My personal thoughts/ideas CPU - I would like an Intel 8th gen i5. I don’t see a need for an i7, but ya’ll can correct me if I’m wrong. I heard Adobe released an optimization for Intel processors recently, so that is pushing me away from anything Ryzen. Again, ya’ll can correct me if I am wrong. CPU Cooler – Nothing fancy, but quiet and possibly fanless would be a plus Motherboard – I just want a solid board with nVMe support and USB 3 Type C header support. Doesn’t need to overlock. I am assuming ATX because it has the best price to performance ratio nowadays. RAM – I would like 16GB and haven’t seen a need for 32. No clue about what speed/timings the newer processors need to run optimally, but I don’t want to overpay for “fast” memory to overlock CASE – I don’t care about windows or lighting. I just want a well-built case with good airflow and a Type C USB port. GPU – Right off the bat, I’m willing to pay up to $600 for a GPU. However, there aren’t a lot of benchmarks for AAA FPS titles with ultrawides at close to max settings? I simply don’t know if a 1070ti/1080/1080ti would be adequate or not. In terms of “futureproofing”, I personally don’t think game engines will get more demanding, but the push for 4K HDR will require higher GPU performance. Being that I’m not going to upgrade my monitor in the next two years or so, what do I really need? Power Supply – This is a bit tricky since we don’t know the requirements for the eventual Turing GPU. But I assume a 700W Gold will work? At worst, I can get the minimum needed for a 1080Ti and a i5? Hard Drives – I have a few Samsung 950 SSD’s and think they are fine. I wouldn’t mind getting a 256GB NVME drive and using the 950’s for storage. I have various external spinning drives already for backups. That’s all I got for now and to everyone, thanks in advance!
×