Siana

Sorry for being a year late, but talk to a local Lenovo service centre which does laptops and whatnot, if you're lucky and they're not lazy and can make some phone calls among colleagues, they might be able to get you Benq replacement parts. A piece of plastic like that might cost you $60 though. It is a bit of a long shot, but if you called Benq and they didn't want to help you, that might be the ticket. If the material is ABS, check the markings, you can weld it with pure acetone (NOT acetone-containing nail polish remover please). Put a piece of tape over the outside visible part to align it and protect the surface, and add just droplets from the back, and you'll see them seep into the crack and disappear. Add a new droplet every half a minute or so, and wait for it to absorb. You might add 20 or so droplets. It will cure over several days, might be safe-ish to handle after 24 hours. If you're lucky, the repair can be invisible. Can't claim to always be lucky myself.

If you have the means, why not scanning? They have more opportunities for access to things like that than they have production time, and employee time including overhead costs is just scary expensive. Cleaning up a scan to production quality is a fool's errand indeed, nasty business. But having a good scan you can skip the tedious measurement which just always takes up a lot more time and verification than you anticipate. And indeed if you don't need to reproduce the subject faithfully, but just need to plan around it, to make some holes in it, you don't need a super clean model, just cut off everything loose outside the object of interest and you're done.

In case you were wondering how you can 3D scan a mirror surface: dulling spray! If you're doing photogrammetry yourself, white hairspray is accessible and is a massive help. You can stock up on some during Halloween sales. Doing a full coat of white and then some black sprinkles on top from a distance can improve the result further. You can wash it off with warm soapy water later. Even clear hairspray, sprayed under an angle and from a greater distance to let it clump in the air while it slowly falls, is better than nothing. Professionals in the 3D scanning business have specialised sprays and powders which are even easier to remove without damaging the subject. You absolutely can't scan a mirror-like surface without a dulling coating.

So i'm wondering though, i have an old Gorilla Glass 3 phone. I forgot to apply a protector - those that i ordered came slightly badly cut... and i dropped it on asphalt around 2 dozen times... so the front glass has a little bit of damage, a few spots that are basically just worn through with microscratches so they're harder to clean off, and one little scratch. So the question is: well obviously this coating does not massively benefit a new Gorilla Glass 5 phone which just came out of the box. But does it improve the feel of a 4 year old heavily used phone?

This is not a new product category, they remind me of Panasonic clip-on headphones that i had 20 years ago. It's not an alternative to on-ears, it's literally just slightly differently shaped clip-ons! Which tells me that you probably should compare these to the new KOSS BT221i for a comprehensive review. Those are dirt cheap!

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Linus says the Virtium StorFly he found in his RED disk is a "low-cost model"... ...OK... https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/virtium-llc/VSFBM8CC480G-150/VSFBM8CC480G-150-ND/7393837 ($450-ish for 480GB)

Messing up an FPC cable isn't such a worry as Linus and Alex make it out to be. You count the pins and measure pin pitch and look up whether the cable is same-side or inverted (one connector with top pins and one bottom pins or both on the same side), measure the length that you need, and order a replacement, though it will take a while to arrive because nobody stocks them locally. They come in 10-pin increments as standard and monitors and cameras generally use standard ones, optical drives use custom cables. If you had to replace a custom one, you can just trim a standard one in width, just at the connector, with your sharpest scissors. But it's best not to damage it, just be careful with the connectors that the metallisation doesn't peel up from the tape substrate. As to electronics, if the monitor is a good few years old, chances are, there's a company on Aliexpress or Taobao which refurbishes the boards. I think scalers should generally be pretty robust, and power supplies are easily rebuilt on your own too. You can generally diagnose easily what is wrong with the monitor, whether the backlight is not working, whether the panel is cracked (i'm sure they bought the monitor where it was obvious from the description that the panel is cracked), or whether the electronics has issues. You can tell a working monitor with no backlight by shining a strong flashlight into it and reading its OSD or no-signal message on powerup or the image you feed to it. Of course backlight could be an LED array fault or an electronics fault but that is just a few more diagnostic steps away. Boards are frequently shared between monitors of various manufacturers and you can often find a service manual for a different monitor that shares your innards. I recently rebuilt an old monitor of my parents by rebuilding the power supply, disabling the high-voltage part of it that drove the CCFLs, branching off the control signal, and retrofitting a Chinese LED kit in place of CCFLs by stripping away all the glass layers and rebuilding the panel. The Chinese LED strips that i bought for $4 gave me quite a bit of trouble and needed a bit of repair themselves, and i wish in hindsight that i just stripped them and replaced all the LEDs with a less bluish more neutral colour and my solder job is obviously better than what they did at the factory, and i'm sure some LEDs failed due to flex in shipping which is why they needed to be repaired, but it works with some colour adjustment in the menu. It was a bit more work than is economical but they are very conservative and don't like it when things change.

In following, i am going to assume that your ATX board is mounted in standard orientation, i.e. I/O shield and CPU are at the top, while the extension cards are at the bottom. Of course Lian-Li and Bitfenix among others produce enclosures which are the other way around. Please also be aware that everything is from the top of my head and might contain detail errors. If you spend the money, and then it turns out that the parts don't quite fit or the steps describe don't quite work, i deny all responsibility - it's up to you to be sane and take what i say with an amount of sea-originating essential spice. Do you need it single slot, or do you merely need to free up some space below the board? I have a hunch that if cooling solution is removed, it should make room to insert a low-profile card underneath the GPU, without chopping up the HDMI port, but you will need a customized holder bracket. So the rest of the issue is conjuring up a new cooling solution. If you don't need space above the GPU, you might be able to use Thermalright HR-03 series off-the-shelf cooler. Be aware that there are multiple editions, which differ in number of heatpipes (between 4 and 6) and the size of cooler, and the size of fan it will accept (92 or 120mm). I don't remember the specific names and specs, but the first and weakest edition was just barely capable of cooling a 140W unit safely with a 92mm fan running at about 1500-2000RPM, from the top of my head, so you have rather good odds of getting your card cool on newer editions silently. Design is suitable for convection cooling, i.e. on the biggest model, you just MIGHT even be able to make do without a fan. When evaluating GPUs for location of chip and protruding parts, be aware that most, but not all, are equal or very similar to each other; however MSI has some differing 660 models, which are longer and more spacy Generally do take coolers from 8800 and 2xx era into consideration - most powerful of either were in excess of 150W, and the cards are reaching end of their natural life quickly, leaving cooling hardware behind. Integrated coolers are of course difficult. If you need the space above the GPU, you have two broad possibilities. One is to use for example a closed-loop liquid cooler, and mount it at the back of your computer or at a random fan outlet; those are all made by Asetek and sold under a number of brands, Thermaltake, perhaps Corsair, don't know from the top of my head. Other is to use the space between the plug-in extension cards and the chassis side wall for cooling. You better have serious ventilation opening in your side wall there! You can use either Thermalright Spitfire (as always, no guarantee that it'll fit), or one of the coolers folded onto themselves, like Arctic Accelero S1 series(edit: folds the wrong way around). In models where heatpipes don't intersect, like the S1, you can slowly - SLOWLY bend one of these outwards little by little, making them into a 90° like Spitfire. You might think you can do this in a minute, but it'll only be OK if you do this over a number of hours. None of the above, not even Spitfire, will work convectively when they're vertical, so you need to put a fan on them. Last possibility is the absolute insanity! But you asked about DIY, so here goes! You will need the following. Heatpipes. Known suppliers: Conrad Electronic International GmbH, QuickCool brand (expensive); Dongguan Hanford Lighting Ltd; Dongguan Decorative Lamp Manuf. Co. Ltd. At least 6mm thick, but thicker might be better. When buying from continental China, have them insure the package, and have some patience! If you find any in HongKong or Singapur, less patience will be needed, but i haven't found yet. Copper block, copper foil rejects (thick/stable enough). Supplier: local alloy vendor. They better be a very patient and friendly one. Talk to them about what you're doing, they might give you metalworking tips and/or point out potential bullshit in my suggestions. Power drill, vertical drill stand, drill bits. That's how you make the holes for round heatpipe in things. Tin snips, file. That will make the fins. Tin-Lead alloy solder. Has low melting point of 185°C. Do not buy unleaded solder! Supplier: home improvement store, near copper pipes. Electronics store will try to sell you unleaded solder, but home improvement has leaded. Soldering iron with temperature control. Not just regulation, it has to maintain the temperature, because at over 200°C the heatpipes usually start to go boom - ask your heatpipe supplier about specifics. Safety goggles, gloves, safe-ish workarea - in case they DO go boom! Tool for making bends in thin copper tube. Supplier: home improvement store. Optional: fitting solder paste. When heated, goes all bubbly and then converts into tin, soldering parts it's on in the process together! Supplier: home improvement store. Might be good for soldering the heatpipes into the copper block. Of course using simply thermal paste or so is a possibility, but it doesn't conduct as good as metal. Consider: Indium-Gallium based metal thermal paste, but IMO it's more finicky and worse than soldering everything together - i think it'll just try to evade the gap rather than stay in there when you try to fit the heatpipe into the copper. If you find a possibility to cut the copper block after drilling it, or drill right through the edge, soldering might be easier. Also suitable to finish the whole surface of the finished cooling contraption in blemish-resistant silvery tin colour. Important: figure out the temperature which the fitting solder paste needs to reach before it reacts, and make sure it's lower than the explosion temperation of heatpipes. Various clamping tools. Metal spacers, steel or Aluminum or so, thickness 1.5 mm or so. This will be the distance between your fins. Whatever i forgot, and various tools. *BRAAAAAINS*. Being a zombie doesn't help. Now imagine what the result should look like. The copper block goes on the bottom (PC-wise) of the GPU; from there outwards and towards the PC wall, a bunch of heatpipes goes. Then they go up (some can go down, if spec of heatpipes permits), and then some of them go left, some of them go right. On the branches, the cooling fins are soldered vertically, so that air can travel upwards through them. Should that not be sufficient, you can always convert a convective system to an active one, but you can't go the other way around, and if convection can do some work for you, then why indeed not let it. The cooling contraption needs invariably be of monsterous size, so propping up the GPU against sagging might be a good idea. It will exert double the force of similarly weighted mass produced cooler, and the fin material is of course heavier than in mass produced coolers too. I don't have a specific plan for you how to make a GPU chip mount yet - my instinct would be to try to fold it out of card stock, and then fiberglass that liberally. Yeah, that obviously needs supplies too. Perhaps metalworking is more suitable. Maybe multiple layers of copper foil soldered together with fitting paste, but it'll need to be pretty thick. I have been planning for a while to do something totally and incredibly custom like this, this is why all of this is in my head, but I didn't get around to yet. Convective heatpipe and copper cooling appeals to me that much more than off the shelf watercooling or whatever. So much more radical, so much less beaten to death and more custom, principally more silent and reliable. Obvious caveat is that i haven't done any of that yet, don't know what issues will come up while executing these techniques, and i'm not starting till my PC hardware is somewhat finalized, and at the moment both the mainboard and the GPU are random bits, a weak board which might explode under the powerful CPU i have, and a hand-me-down 300W GPU insanity doing its last days after being abused by someone else. Also i think i'll have a custom built case to go with it, which does more to support convective cooling - made out of alu angles, profiles and mesh. Or maybe i'll never get around to.