TekkyTG

I currently have an extra pc (my very first rig). I stream on my current rig (parts list in my signature). For some games it's great, others it really takes a damper on my frame rate, which is a huge deal for me (very competitive player, I have a 240hz monitor). The old rig is basically a refurbished HP Z400 Workstation. It has a 4 core, 8 thread, 45 nm arch cpu (intel xeon w3570) with 6x2gb ram (yes, 6 ram sticks) running at 1333 mHz. x58 mobo ofc. It has a 1tb hdd and a 240gb kingston ssd, and an msi gaming x 1050ti (I bought this/upgraded it quite a few years ago). Cpu cooler is a classic, trusty old Hyper 212 EVO. 750 watt 80+ bronze PSU, and a solid metal case. I understand only the cpu really matters, and the ram comes in a close second, gpu doesn't really affect anything as I'll be using an hd60 pro. Long story short, I just want to know for sure that my old Z400 workstation can actually handle streaming at 1080p60. I can't seem to get a straight answer from anyone. From what I understand, a 4 core, 8 thread, 3.6gHz cpu can do it with 8gb 2400 speed ram.

Upgrading from 2600x to 3600. Board is 3000 ready and I double checked the BIOS just to make sure. Running at the latest version. B450 Pro-4F. Goes past the BIOS into a boot screen. Shows ASRock logo and the windows loading dots. Stays there forever unless I just turn it off. After multiple tries it will go to automatic repair, but automatic repair doesn't fix the problem. After a few google searches I tried reseating the CMOS battery and that didn't fix it, so it appeared to be a dead cpu, so I shipped it back. Just got another 3600, doing the same thing. After some more googling, I read something about going into command prompt and running a DISM command to remove the amd_sata.inf driver. I have an NVME drive. Either way, even DISM /image:C:\ /Read-drivers wouldn't do anything, just gave me an error that it couldn't be accessed. (C drive is my NVME windows boot drive of course)

Yeah, I'm already saving up for a new 3000 series GPU, along with waiting for the 4000 series ryzen to come out (I thought about buying a prebuilt machine just to get ahold of one of the OEM's, but then I found out that they're still rocking the zen2 architecture, and zen3 won't be released until the consumer versions come out). Also, yeah it took a lottt of research to find that information out. I have definitely heard that some people don't experience this issue. Some games, like R6 Siege, use Vulkan and those won't cause it to happen for me. Others, like Fortnite and COD do. It's really weird. Anyway, the reason having a second GPU affects this is because I can have my primary GPU running only the 240hz monitor, and the secondary running my other monitors. Also, a strange fact I found out is if both cards are DirectX12 (12, earlier I said 11, oops), it doesn't matter what GPU they are. They don't have to run in SLI, they can run independently of eachother. I've seen people with a 1070 and a 1060 in one PC.

Thanks for all the info. At the moment I've got a 2060 super. It's already struggling on graphically demanding games to get the framerates I want (mainly COD), so I'm not interested in offloading the power to the GPU. Also, as far as the dedicated gpu goes, I have an old AMD gpu from back in the day when they were called ATI. It's the ATI Firepro V4800. As old as it is, it still does the job. Granted it's actually worse than an Intel UHD 630... But hey, it never gave me bottleneck issues. Back when I had an old dell server pc that I bought off eBay for 200 bucks, I had an intel xeon w3505 and the V4800, rocked about 350+ FPS on Minecraft. Granted that was on a much older Minecraft, pre-1.9, but it's still a powerhouse to this day lol. Obviously the framerate was because of the CPU, but at least the GPU didn't hold it back

I'll likely get one at some point, but I actually plan to use the NDI plugin for OBS. It uses my modem like an Elgato, essentially. Also, as decent as my main rig is, there are boat loads of problems I have. I'm a very competitive gamer, and so my primary monitor is 240hz. Without streaming, I can average the 180+ on modern warfare and on just about any other game I can rock 240fps+ Streaming obviously gives me a lower framerate, which is why I'd like a separate PC. Obviously, I could just upgrade my CPU, but there are other issues still. There's a problem with NVIDIA graphics cards, unless the game runs on Vulkan or something similar, where if I have other things displaying on my 60hz monitor, it will lock the game on my 240hz monitor at 60hz as well. This means that having my stream chat up or Spotify or OBS or Discord on my other monitors will really ruin my gameplay (I've used 240hz so long that anything below 144 feels like lag). This can be resolved by adding a second card to the pc (must be NVIDIA, DirectX 11+ I believe), in order to counteract this. At this point, it would make everything much simpler and easier, along with in the long run, as I upgrade my personal rig for the newer, more demanding games, to just have a separate PC that I can also upgrade as I go.

Or wait. Are you suggesting I get the i3 and OC to 4.3gHz? Also, I didn't know this CPU existed lol. I would have probably used it in a few other builds I'm doing... Idk I just like ryzen for it's simplicity lol.

I didn't realize that a 3.6gHz cpu could handle it. A friend of mine actually has an old amd ryzen 1400 rocking 3.6gHz and four cores, 8 threads. He would let it go for cheap. for the motherboard, no need to overclock I'm assuming, so I could rock a generic A320M. He also has a single 8gb stick of 2666 speed ram. I think I'll spend just a tiny bit more money and get the 16 gig set though, I mean it's not like I'm scraping the bottom of the barrel lol. Thanks for the list!

Budget (including currency): 500$ starting point, but at the moment I'm really looking at what it would cost to build one. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming. It will be part of a dual pc streaming setup. It will only handle OBS and rendering the stream. It will not run any games. It will have a few windows up for my chat and discord, of course. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I'll need a mouse and keyboard. Doesn't have to be anything special. I have no need for RGB goodness, as my primary PC has loads of it, lol. Probably the most I'm willing to pay for a mouse/keyboard is a cheap ReDragon clicky mechanical keyboard a Deathadder. I have two 60hz monitors for it already and a massive desk (I'll be putting the pc under the desk though to reduce sound, unless I decide to spend the extra dollar on some noctua's for the quiet. Since my current pc has an nvme drive I wouldn't mind having one in it to speed things up, but I don't plan on mass speed storage, so a 250gb nvme drive with a few tb's of Seagate barracuda drives will be plenty (I'll want to save recordings, of course).

Imo, open back is better if you're in a quiet area. Check out https://www.soundguys.com/open-back-vs-closed-back-headphones-12179/

Looks bad. Flipping up the microphone doesn't look right on stream, it makes things look out of place. That's why you rarely see "structured" streamers with a mic on the side of their headphones.

I looked over it, appears to be a great set of headphones. Unfortunately I forgot to add one thing to my post: No microphone. I'm looking at the Sennheisser HD 518's right now, I'll be checking around that pricepoint. Otherwise the Game One's appear to be perfect. I like the fabric earmuffs a lot.

The title says the majority of it. I'm looking for some nice headphones that are great for competitive gaming (as in picking up footsteps) and are built to last. One of the main features I'd like to have is a well-made cable with a significant length. I don't mind going wireless, but only if it's a very low latency. My current headphones are Astro A10's. I absolutely LOVE them, or at least did while they were working properly. The cable has a thick, rubbery outside that doesn't get tangled, it's about 6 foot 3 inches (which is barely enough, I would much prefer 8 foot + if possible). It has a volume knob on it as well. I love having a volume knob on the cable, however often times, the volume knob will cause issues down the line. LR audio becomes unbalanced at max volume, and I have to really push the volume knob up as hard as I can to balance it, or turn it down a ways to get it to balance, and then I can't hear it well, but then I can sometimes bring it back up again to normal (max volume) and it will be balanced again. It's a bit of a struggle, lol. I also want them to look decent, and as much as I love rgb, that's NOT what I'm looking for. I'd rather people see that I've got good quality headphones and think, "Hey, he knows his stuff, maybe I should stick around" rather than, "Ew, he's retarded. He has garbage headphones just because he thinks they look cool but in reality they hurt my eyes. I'm out this B". Budget: I'm willing to stretch a bit. It really depends on the quality of the headphones. If I see some really good reviews online, along with the perks I'm looking for, I'll be into spending a bit more. For a start, I'd like to spend less than 150$, but I will stretch it to 250$, but only if it's ABSOLUTELY necessary to make them tick all the boxes. Also, at the moment I do not have a sound board/mixer or what have you. My microphone is a USB Blue Yeti. It's highly unlikely I could switch to a mixer with my price limit, but I would be willing to boost the budget to 300$ if I can have a decent board I won't regret buying later on, with 6.35mm headphones that still tick at least most of the boxes, so that later on I can get a proper XLR microphone. +1 Great quality +1 Great sound, especially for footsteps +1 Will last a very long time (more than a year, long-term) +1 Look decent. +10000000 OVER EAR!!! +1 Volume knob (but only if reviews show that it won't affect the headphones long-term) +1 decently priced. +100 NO microphone. At the moment, I'm very much interested in this: Sennheiser HD518 https://bit.ly/31mxn5Y AT2035 https://amzn.to/3idSUEI Headphone AMP https://amzn.to/3fuathT Mixer (1 mic input) https://amzn.to/2PuLLUe Microphone Cable https://bit.ly/33u6pvE Microphone Stand https://bit.ly/2ENgE3U Obviously, I'd only pick up the HD518's for now, and pick up the other parts as I go. Any input?

Thanks for all the info everyone!

I'm having a difficult time finding what I'm searching for. I'm interested in ordering a really good pair of headphones. I spent about 20 bucks on a pair of Astro A10's. They are amazing. They cloth earpads are extremely comfortable, and I can hear footsteps loud and clear where others can't, and I'm known for having terrible hearing. I don't need a microphone, in fact I would much prefer it to not have one or to have the ability to take off the microphone and store it in a drawer or something, out of the way. I would also like it to be wireless. If possible, I really like Logitech gear and it's nice to only have one program for all my gear. That's basically all I want, very comfortable, (I love cloth earpads), good for hearing footsteps, no/removable mic, preferably Logitech, and I'd like it to look fairly decent as I plan to stream with it. RGB is always a huge plus as far as I'm concerned, I can't get enough of it Oh, and my budget is around 150$ or lower, if possible. Thanks!

Trying to get 60 FPS on Rainbow Six Siege, as high settings as I can! Here's what I've got so far, My maximum budget is 500, obviously this list is at 515$ right now (ish), that is the most headroom I can take. Thanks! I don't need a lot of space, I just plan to play Rainbow Six Siege and do a little YouTube watching. I don't plan to stream or anything like that at the moment. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 3 3200G 3.6 GHz Quad-Core Processor $94.99 @ Amazon Motherboard ASRock B450M-HDV R4.0 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard $68.98 @ Newegg Memory Patriot Viper 4 Blackout 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $44.99 @ Newegg Storage Plextor M8VG 128 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $39.26 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Barracuda 500 GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $19.94 @ Amazon Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 1650 4 GB GAMING X Video Card $153.27 @ Newegg Case HEC HX210 MicroATX Mini Tower Case $36.98 @ Newegg Power Supply SeaSonic S12III 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply $54.99 @ B&H Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $513.40 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-04-15 12:27 EDT-0400

I have a 240hz with two 60hz monitors on each side. When I play a game with anything open on the 60hz monitors, my game feels very laggy, and after a lot of research, I found out that because there are things open on the other screens, it's in a way capping the Hz to 60 on my main monitor. I found this to be true, because as soon as I minimize my other programs (Discord, OBS), my game becomes much smoother (it's not frame drops, I hold a steady framerate whether or not there are windows open. It's purely a GPU issue). I have an RTX 2060 SUPER. I've done some research on how I could fix this issue, but I was wondering if anyone else had any other good ideas. Of course, I could just buy two more 240hz monitors, but that's not needed and really just a waste of money if I can get out of it. The other thing I thought of was a separate streaming computer, which I could do, but I need all three monitors on one computer for my job (I work online as Tech Support). I am interested in having a separate streaming computer, but it will take me a while to get to that place. My third idea was to throw in another GPU (I have a 2600x, no iGPU), not in SLI but as just something to display a few programs like chrome, discord, OBS on. The problem is, my budget is limited and I only have an oldddd ATI Firepro V4800. It doesn't support DirectX 12 of course, so I can't throw it in. I may be able to get my hands on a GT 730, which after a quick Google search, I've found that it has support for DirectX 12 but at the same time it mostly runs on DirectX 11 (very confusing website that I found this info on) so I'm not sure if it would be able to run this configuration. Just thought I'd check with you guys to see if ya'll have any ideas

That's super interesting! Good to know.

This idea is really just kind of one of those crazy ideas that "could" work, in fact may be somewhat ridiculous, but at the same time peaks curiousity, kind of like LTT's video about powering an entire computer with a bicycle lol.

No no no, thanks for the feedback, but none of you seem to understand. I'm curious if there's not simply just a PCIe display adapter tha ADDS more outputs, but runs off the same gpu. I'm never going to use this, I'm just very curious if it exists. I'm not looking to do this myself in any way here. The goal is not to get more monitors, I just want to know if this exists. I'm saying that the PCIe card would actually utilize the GPU that's already in place, but just add a few more outputs. I already know that you can easily throw in another cheap graphics card (so long as the motherboard supports it) and use it that way, but of course that graphics card would be running everything off of itself, not the main graphics card.

At the moment, I don't need this, but I am very curious if there's anything out there that exists of this sort. Is there any type of PCIe card that you can install in your motherboard along with your GPU that does nothing but add an extra output (or two or three or four) connector? Obviously I know you can run SLI or Crossfire and have extra outputs, or even two different GPU's so long as your motherboard supports it, but I'm curious if there isn't a PCIe card that will still use the included graphics card to generate the graphics, but simply add more video outputs.

Thanks! I'll take a look at them.

I'm not positive if this is the right area for this post, but it's close enough I guess. I'm looking for recommendations on a good three monitor mount. It does need to be a clip style, as the wall in my room is very thin, and mounting anything, especially my heavier monitors, is very likely to rip a giant gash in the wall rather than support them. Here's the part that may be slightly challenging: I've got a large MSI Oculux NXG252R. My other two monitors are a bit more strange. On the left, I have a Hanspree monitor. It shows up in my computer as an HT321. On the right, I've got an HP monitor. It shows up as an HP 2159. There monitors all run at 1920x1080p, and the HP and the Hanspree monitors are quite old and therefore heavier than most monitors of their type. The MSI monitor is much newer but also packs a lot more features (240hz, gysync, LED lights, so on), and is a little lighter than the other two but still relatively heavy compared to your average monitor these days. My problem is I don't know what to look for in a Monitor Mount, especially one that supports three separate monitors of different types. I have figured out how to detach the backs and get to the mounting plates on each of the monitors, however. NOTE: I did do a little bit of research after making this post, and I found that all three of the monitors support a 100m x 100m mount.

About 60% of the time, when I reboot my computer, or leave it off all night and turn it back on the next day, it will default two specific Windows 10 settings back, and it's very annoying. First, it enabled Autohide for the taskbar. I hate the feature, and while some people may like it, I don't. Part of it's because the transition looks absolutely awful, even on my 240hz screen, but aside from that I just dislike it. Again, about 60% of the time, when I turn my pc on, autohide is enabled for the taskbar and I have to go and turn it off. It only takes me about two seconds, but it's still very annoying. Also, maybe 50% of the time, it enables an Ease of Access setting that makes it so that hovering over icons selects them and clicking once opens them. I prefer that setting off, one click to select, double click to open. It's even more annoying because I have to open up the Ease of Access center, which can't be done just by hitting the windows key and typing in, "Ease", because it opens up the W10 version instead of the control panel version of the ease of access center. It's overall very annoying. This only has began to happen recently. I have updated all my drivers. I built my computer myself, and it's a very high end pc. You can see the specs in my signature. An issue I've had for a while, but just dealt with because it's very easy to fix, is that about 80% of the time when I start my pc up, the monitor (the 240hz monitor from MSI) will display incorrectly. It cuts out a sliver of the screen, from top to bottom, straight in the center, slides the right side of the sliver over, and drops the sliver on the far right. It's not as weird as it sounds, I promise lol. Anyway, all I've ever had to do was click the power button twice on the monitor or change the resolution and change it back, and then my monitor is back to perfection. I'm just trying to figure out what might be causing these things to happen. I've double checked the drivers, they are all up to date. I recently took apart my pc completely, cleaned each part with an air blower or a dry or slightly damp rag, and put it back together (I did this AFTER the issue started happening, so it is NOT the cause!). My thermals did improve a little bit, but the issue did not go away.

Truth is, I can easily spend about 200$ on a good GPU later on and make this into a pretty strong backpack pc too.

Here is what I've got so far: PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WNjVf9 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor ($124.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: Asus ASUS Prime A320I-K AM4 AMD A320 SATA 6Gb/s Mini ITX AMD Motherboard Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard ($92.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($62.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($38.99 @ Best Buy) Storage: Kingston A400 240 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($38.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Silverstone SG05BB-450-USB3.0 (Black) Mini ITX Desktop Case ($59.49 @ Amazon) Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA GM 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($77.79 @ Amazon) Video Card: ATI FirePro V4800 1 GB DVI/2DisplayPort PCI-Express Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $496.23 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-03-05 18:25 EST-0500 I liked the idea of running with a RAID configuration for my Minecraft server, So I added support for that with the two separate SSD's. The Ryzen 2600 has 6 cores starting out at 3.2GHz, and although the motherboard can't overclock, after speaking with you guys, that won't matter just an awful lot. Because of that, I went with the basic, low profile stock cooler instead of getting something better. My computer also does not need wifi, as it will have an ethernet connection, as well as the fact that it's only going to be used for LAN parties, which don't need internet, of course. The memory was in general just a solid choice, and is easily upgrade-able down the line if need be. The case has everything I need, and looks great. The PSU is enough to cover the power, as well as being Gold Certified, Fully Modular, and from EVGA, who I personally use is my own gaming rig. After plenty of research and talk with you guys on here, I decided I didn't need anything great for my GPU and went with one that I've got at my house, stored in an old 1050 TI box. It's basic, barely more than a display adapter, but it used to get me over 300 fps on MC with a much lesser cpu (of course, that was in like 1.9-1.11 lmao), so it should do the job just fine. I'm thinking that this might actually be a bit overkill for what I need actually, so if you guys want to try to knock something off on the price, go right ahead. I don't plan to change the PSU up at all, or the memory. You can change around the mobo, cpu, and storage all you like, however. The case looks great and has all I need, so it will be difficult to get me to change it, telling you right now lmao.