BlackCrowSA

Gigabyte announced the GeForce GTX 980 WaterForce Tri-SLI. This is 3 GPUs with water cooling kit, fully assembled for you.
Each graphics card comes in factory-overclocked at 1228 MHz core, 1329 MHz GPU Boost, and 7.00 GHz memory.

Water cooling kit comes out of your case, in this box add-on on top, and the water cooling system is attached on the GPU pre-assembled.
 




Yea, that is a support system that you need to install.
Custom SLI bridge is included to match the look.
Gigabyte didn't announce pricing or availability.
Source: http://www.techpowerup.com/207086/gigabyte-announces-geforce-gtx-980-waterforce-tri-sli.html

İ have the sapphire version of the card and i changed my thermal paste,like your card it dropped 20-22 degrees !

Awesome build, great concept great lighting Tech Porn at its best.

Wow another scare tactics thread...
 
Basically, if you have ever read history and history of economics and yes watched movies, you know no deal is ever done. I can add millions of examples of deals gone bad with an infinite number of possible endings, legal and illegal.
 
In the end, its the people you deal with not the currency you deal in for the currency does not have a one to one representation with the person.
 
Maybe a list of best practices in buying on-line is due not currency X is bad and lets rag on it to no avail with no proof or acknowledgment that it has processed millions of happy transactions but one got screwed up so lets stay away from it.
 
1. The deal needs to be finalized between the seller and buyer, price of product, shipping, insurance, currency to be used, who sends first (buyer should send money/currency first, just like in a store, you don't get to open the package till you pay, don't bring up BS on you get to hold the box or see it, this is reality).
2. You should seek proof of delivery no matter which currency you use, at the sellers cost.
3. Seller should take photo's at packaging, in case shipping ruins it, not to mention tracking the package.
4. Buyer should give acknowledgement after receiving product. Listing any issues after signing for it, this should be hours after receiving. Not waiting days to test, as it only adds blame to buyer as if you bought it you had a use for it not storage till N days later. If you can't test/use due to timing request it be shipped at a later date, otherwise you're just adding to the issues of a deal not helping it.
 
So lets talk about best practices overall with On-Line purchasing for any currency and required options for certain products. Just because we don't have a FAQ for the Classifieds doesn't mean we can't create our own as we are the sellers and buyers anyway.

I updated my bios from 1503 (from 10/2011) to 3602 (11/2012). Maybe it helps something, but it strange how the problems started so I don't think that's going to do any good. Well, maybe it's more stable in some cases but not straightly connected to my problem.
 
I also double checked my drivers from Asus for the motherboard and it seems like I was missing some ACHI/RAID drivers and that DPC_WATCHDOG_VIOLATION might have had something to do with the drivers.
 
Intel AHCI/RAID Driver Path for Windows Win8.1 32bit & Win8.1 64bit.
Intel Rapid Storage Technology Driver software V12.8.0.1016 for Windows Win8.1 64bit---(WHQL).
 
That's what I installed.
 
I'll see how it works now. If The same problems occur, I will start removing peripherals like DVD drive and card reader one by one from my computer. If I can't figure out the problem that way, then I do a complete reinstall of Windows again. I doubt that would do anything because my current install is just two weeks old without any crap installed on it.
 
The last solution is to get a new PC, good excuse for getting an upgrade!

I know you're being sarcrastic, but Sandy Bridge CPU's are still really potent, and I don't think you should build a new system. I'm sure we'll get to the bottom of it!

What information can a seller provide to increase the chances of winning a chargeback dispute?

The following types of information can increase the chances of a chargeback dispute being ruled in favor of the seller:

Proof of delivery, such as online tracking numbers.
Copies of the original item description or auction description, including any photos.
Proof that the buyer was already refunded.
Proof that the buyer was provided with a replacement product.
Correspondence with the buyer or feedback from the buyer.
Any agreements signed or accepted by the buyer at time of purchase.
Any return policy that was communicated to the buyer.

Choosing parts.

That's the fun part

Choosing parts.

http://youtu.be/YQEjGKYXjw8?t=2m15s

@LinusTech you clearly haven't seen this video about Facebook pages:

I say this too...
Got a used HDD from ebay and clicks so much.

Seeing as the only mouse on that list without a flawed sensor is the Sensei raw I would have to choose it. Personally I think its too heavy for its size compared to its competition (EC1/2 CL from Zowie) but its a reasonable mouse.
 
The RAT 9 is terrible. It is heavy, extremely heavy for a mouse. The sensor has quite a serious Z axis issue and I had inherient acceleration that I just couldn't remove. I couldn't get any of the DPIs I tried to work properly, there was obvious interpolation affecting my movement. Worse than that the wireless connectivity was terrible, the mouse would disconnect a lot and refuse to reconnect. I used it wired almost all of the time and the drivers would quite often crap out mid game leaving me without movement until I unplugged and plugged it back in. I didn't wait until it was dead, I chunked this piece of junk in the bin after a few months as I could just never get on with it, was the worst mouse I have used in 2 decades. The average ball mouse was better.
 
The Logitech g9x has inherent acceleration inbuilt into the sensor, it simply can't be removed. I have thus never even tried to use the mouse but its generally considered bad for gamers to have acceleration on.

You should get the G700s I have both a G700s and a RAT 9, I definately prefer the g700s I put a 2nd monitor on my setup and then my rat had so many problems. (Slow down speed up randomly). Once of my friends suggested the 700s and I've loved it ever since.

I love my G9x, I play a lot of FPS games. Logitech also has great software.

If you want wireless, I would recommend Logitech G602. Easily the best wireless gaming mouse available right now. The best sensor out of them all, insane battery life and great ergonomic shape. Even has quite a few extra buttons which can be nice for MOBAs like LoL.
 
For FPS I would recommend a flawless optical mouse like Logitech G400s, Razer DeathAdder 2013, SteelSeries Rival, Corsair M40/M45, Roccat Kone Pure OPTICAL or one of the Zowie mice (such as AM or FK).

FirePro:
http://configure.us.dell.com/dellstore/config.aspx?oc=smp4800w7p005&model_id=precision-m4800-workstation&c=us&l=en&s=bsd&cs=04&
Quadro:
http://configure.us.dell.com/dellstore/config.aspx?oc=smp4800w7p003&model_id=precision-m4800-workstation&c=us&l=en&s=bsd&cs=04&

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dell-S2340L-Widescreen-Monitor-1920x1080/dp/B009HM54SU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1392482529&sr=8-5&keywords=dell+p24

keeping front panel wires clean and out of sight. 

Honestly, picking out appropriate parts. It's a part of the building process, and it's always the hardest for me - just because my customers want the cheapest PC that will easily complete the tasks they throw at it.
 
Otherwise, nothing is hard - it's always enjoyable once the parts are in!

If you can buy them new, rather do that. For warranties more than anything. If its from some one you trust or know used parts can be very helpful. Used Hard drives are the parts that I would stay clear from. If you can test before buying even better.

This looks like a good option http://www.amazon.co.uk/VS238H-P-23-inch-Widescreen-Monitor-50000000/dp/B00BLV9GF2

depending if you're motherboard is going to be in the way or not, so push or pull will depend, push/pull might interfere with some motherboards.