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    USB 2.0 RGB hub compatible with 5V 3-pin D-RGB?

    I've found a solution that might just work. I searched online for a way to hook up the Evolv X D-RGB to a Corsair Lighting Node Pro or Commander Pro, and I ended up with this cable. I had to sign up for an ebay account to buy one, though. Would be nice if Corsair themselves would make these cables, since I'm pretty suspicious of vendors on sites like ebay and Aliexpress.
  2. I just got the Phanteks Evolv X case for my current gaming system. I wanted to be able to control the case RGB through my motherboard, but when I was installing it, I noticed that the RGB connector for the case is different from the ones on my motherboard. This one requires a 3-pin (5V) header, while my motherboard, the ASUS Prime X470-Pro, only has two 4-pin (12V) headers. I did some research on the Internet only to find out that the technologies are different and therefore there is no way to connect a 3-pin connector to a 4-pin one. I was pretty disappointed, but built my PC anyway; I'm using the built-in RGB controls, for now; still looks great! The only way I would be able to control the case's addressable RGB through my motherboard is to have a motherboard that has a compatible header. My current board is fairly new, so I don't really want to upgrade it at this point. Not until USB4 is available on motherboards, anyway. We have RGB fan/led hubs like the NZXT Hue 2 and the Corsair Commander Pro that connect to motherboards via their USB 2.0 headers and controlled via their software suites like Corsair's iCue. So, I'm wondering: are there any devices like that with the 5V, 3-pin D-RGB header? If not, will there be one coming soon, if ever? Is connecting a 5V, 3-pin D-RGB header via USB 2.0 even possible? I'd like to have one because, like I said, I don't want to buy a newer motherboard.

    Should I use the M.2 Heatsink that came with my mobo?

    I was comparing the boot speeds of my SATA SSD and M.2 SSD, not the M.2 with/out the thermal pad. I've been installing games mostly in my 4TB HDD, because there's no online multiplayer game that I'm playing regularly like Warframe (I play it on PS4, because I didn't even have a gaming PC by the time I started playing it). I have installed some apps on the M.2, and they boot as quickly as they did on my SATA SSD.

    Should I use the M.2 Heatsink that came with my mobo?

    I installed the M.2 SSD in the top NVMe slot with the M.2 heatsink and thermal pad on top of it. No sticker is removed from the NVMe SSD. It's been working fine; in fact, my PC boots even faster than before! Thanks for you help, everyone. Even Kyle recommended that you do it this way in his tiny PC build. He used an ASUS mini-ITX motherboard with a similar M.2 heatsink.
  5. I've been having issues with my gaming PC after I cloned my Windows installation from my SSHD to an SSD with the same capacity. Sometimes, YouTube videos and music files would refuse to play so I've had to restart my system twice just to get them to work, again. Sometimes, one of my displays refuse to output video from my PC, so I've had to unplug the monitor that wasn't working and plug it back in just to receive the output, again. Also, every time I try to run (EA) Origin on my system, it comes up with an error that says "Well, that didn't go as planned". Everything else works, but I don't want to deal with these issues, any more. I searched online for how to fix these issues and even asked on this forum, and I got no answer, AT ALL, and so I searched for fixes on issues after a cloned Windows installation, and one of the answers said that it's better to do a fresh install. So, that's what I've decided to do. I did the cloning process onto a SATA SSD, because the motherboard I was using before didn't have NVMe slots. My new motherboard does have a couple of NVME slots, one of which is covered by an "M.2 heatsink". When I've decided to do a fresh installation of Windows 10, I've decided to get an NVMe SSD. I could have saved my money and just do a fresh install in my SATA SSD, instead, but I'd like the extra boot speed as well as a free SATA port. I managed to remove the M.2 heatsink from the motherboard and I've found a thermal pad with a plastic cover on the back of it. I'd like to use the M.2 heatsink, but the instruction manual that came with the mobo doesn't show anything regarding the thermal pad. I looked online for these kinds of heatsinks, only to read that they don't make a big difference in thermals (at least for the one that came with a different mobo) and you'd need to remove one of the stickers on the NVMe SSD, which will void your warranty. So, the obvious choice would be to not use the M.2 heatsink, keep the sticker on the NVMe SSD and install it in the other NVMe slot underneath it, right? Additional info: Motherboard: ASUS Prime X-470 PRO NVMe SSD: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB

    YouTube/audio files refuse to play

    Hello, anybody? What do I do to prevent these issues from ever happening again? The problem with the YouTube and audio files refusing to play is happening again!
  7. Sometimes, when I turn my PC on and try to watch a video on YouTube in Firefox, the video won't play at all. Clicking Play wouldn't work. At the same time, a music file won't play in Windows Media Player, and Spotify "can't play [a] song". So, I have to restart my PC once or twice, even, just to get them to work again. Also sometimes, after I wake my computer from sleep or turn it on, it won't output anything from either my main monitor or new 4K display, so I had to turn off my UPS and/or unplug my 4K display and then plug them back in to fix the problem. Simply hard-resetting my PC or turning it off forcefully and turning it back on wouldn't work. I don't want to deal with these issues, anymore. I just want my setup to work every time I turn it on or wake it up from sleep. I didn't have these issues, before. I keep my computer updated via Windows Update (and NVIDIA GeForce Experience for my graphics card) and haven't had a threat, recently. Actually, I started with a pre-built "abs" PC from 2014-15 and upgraded the hardware along the way, even the motherboard and CPU. I also cloned the Windows installation from the SSHD of my pre-built system into an SSD with the same capacity. I didn't use a UPS before I got the one I'm currently using. I've been using the same PSU as the one I got in my pre-built. What seems to be causing the issues? I even thought about starting over with a fresh installation of Windows 10, backing up my important files, of course; I'm not really looking forward to downloading and installing my games and apps, again! (my download speed goes up to 80Mbps) I don't want to re-install Windows, I just don't want to spend any more of my time unplugging things or restarting my system several times unnecessarily.

    Recommended WiFi camera?

    I'm looking for a WiFi security camera that I can place just by the back door of my house, on a ceiling or a wall. The picture quality doesn't need to be great, just decent (like 720p). I'd like the WiFi connection to be good; I have the modem/router combo in my room where my computer is, but we do have an extender in the living room, which is closer to the back door but on the opposite side of the house, which is not big, BTW. I'd also like to have alerts/notifications on my phone; very handy whenever my cat wants to come in after I let her out and I can't hear her meowing.

    Can't use my LG 4k TV as a second display.

    I've fixed it! Now my gaming PC is being displayed on the 4K TV as a second monitor. I have been looking for help, using the search feature on the TV itself as my last resort. It showed me several suggestions, and I realized a problem that I had with my gaming PC and monitor before: sometimes I turn my PC on and nothing is displayed on the monitor, so I had to unplug everything and plug them back in so they would go back to normal. I did exactly that, with the 4K TV in the picture as well, and as a result, the TV is actually displaying from my gaming PC as a second monitor, just what I wanted! Now I know what to do whenever either one of the displays aren't working for my gaming PC, though I would like to find a way to prevent that from ever happening again. I'm happy that I was able to figure this out.
  10. I bought an LG 4K HDR TV on Black Friday. I set it up and it works just fine, for the most part. My cable box and my PS4 work just fine on it, but I can't use it as a display for my gaming PC or for my cheap Intel NUC; nothing is displayed. I want to use it as a second display for my gaming PC; I don't plan on playing games on it because I already have it connected to a 1080p, but 144Hz and 1ms, "gaming" monitor on the desk below it, though I plan on upgrading to an ultrawide "gaming" monitor later on, but I would use it for watching 4K content and productivity. I hook it up from the HDMI output of my GTX 1060 6GB card via an HDMI 2.0 (at least advertised to be) cable, set the correct input channel, and nothing is displayed on the 4K TV. The PC already detects it, even as an extension of my desktop with the cursor being enlarged whenever I move it above my gaming monitor (300% scaling set on that display), but still nothing on the screen. Same thing with my cheap Intel NUC mini PC. It is plugged into an old HDMI selector along with my PS4 and cable box. My PS4 and cable box are displayed on the 4K TV just fine via the HDMI selector, but not the Intel NUC. The NUC has an HDMI output as well as a VGA D-SUB out, and right now only the HDMI out is being used. I turn it on with the other boxes turned off and the HDMI selector automatically switches to it, but nothing is displayed on the 4K TV. It worked just fine with my older HDTV which I used before the 4K TV. I tried different HDMI cables, and they didn't work. What's going on here? Why am I not getting display from any PC to my new 4K TV? I may as well use the Netflix and YouTube apps on the TV itself for some 4K content, for now. Additional information: TV: LG UK6090PUA HDMI: IBRA RED GOLD, AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI cable, HDMI 1.4 Cable with Ethernet (for use with NUC)

    Connection issues with PS4

    I have an Actiontec modem/router combo that came with my ISP Telus, which is also used to connect to "Optik TV" cable boxes in the house. (my mom and dad still watch TV the old fashioned way) I have this router connected to my PS4, and after a few days have passed it is disconnected from the Internet! The last time it did, I lost my mind! It does this while connected to either WiFi or a LAN cable, and I don't get this issue with my other devices (PC, smartphone), whatsoever. I don't want to deal with this stupidity, anymore. I want to find a solution that prevents this problem from happening ever again. What I did before was connect another router to the modem/router combo and my PS4 into that other router. The problem I had with it was the NAT issue when trying to chat with my PSN friends via Party Chat. The modem/router combo does have a Bridge mode, which gives the device plugged into LAN port 1 its own IP address. First time I tried it didn't work, but the second time it did work. Because the modem/router combo has good WiFi coverage in the house, I don't really need another WiFi router in the house, unless I want to do something like Remote Play or Spotify from my phone, so an old router with WiFi disabled could work. Is there a better solution to this connection issue?

    Capture Card: USB 3.0 or PCIe?

    I plan on building a streaming PC using some of my old gaming PC hardware that I'm currently not using: CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor Motherboard: msi 760GMA-P34 (FX) Micro-ATX AM3+ Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2400 Video Card: msi GEFORCE GTX 960 Problem is choosing a capture card for it. I heard that PCIe capture cards are more stable than USB capture cards. If I go for PCIe, such as the Elgato HD60 Pro, I'd have to get a different video card, one that takes up only one PCI slot, because on my motherboard, the PCIe x1 connector is just one slot below the PCIe x16, and my GTX 960 takes up two slots, covering the PCIe x1. The ZOTAC GT 1030 card would work just fine for the streaming PC alongside a PCIe capture card, because it uses up only one PCI slot and consumes less energy than my GTX 960. If I go USB 3.0, such as the Elgato HD60 S, I wouldn't need to use a different video card, plus it would be cheaper for me. If I wanted to stream in 4K, then of course I'd get a high-end PCIe capture card like the Elgato 4K60 Pro along with a better CPU and motherboard, preferably one with at least two PCIe x16 connectors. I'd also want to run Ubuntu in the streaming PC, rather than Windows, so I'd have to get a capture card that is compatible with GNU/Linux as well as Windows and Mac OS. The Y&H Ezcap261-CA and axGear are the cheapest capture cards that are advertised to work with Linux. Then there are the TNP UH60 and AVermedia BU110, which are more expensive but lack an HDMI output which means I would have to use an HDMI splitter from the source device such as my gaming PC and console. All of them are USB 3.0 capture cards. I don't know if there are any PCIe capture cards that are both at similar price points and compatible with GNU/Linux. Which capture card/setup would you recommend? Could I use Linux for streaming, or should I stick to Windows 10 for that?

    External sound card with coaxial out?

    I've found an alternative to the Avantree DAC: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07BQYYDNJ/?coliid=IFI7F0B5QJLU6&colid=36U4AWFHR0HSW&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it It's from the same company, only it's not advertised as a DAC, but it does have 3.5mm and optical inputs as well as outputs. I could even pair it with my phone to use with my Logitech speaker system wirelessly (via Bluetooth). Seems like a better deal for me than the DAC and the sound card with coaxial combined.

    External sound card with coaxial out?

    I'm planning on picking up an Avantree DAC for my setup. It will be plugged into a set of Logitech speakers that only have a 3.5mm audio plug, normally made for PCs. I'll be hooking up my TV to the DAC via Optical, but I also want to hook it up to my streaming PC. If only the DAC has a 3.5mm audio input, it would have been perfect. The only other input that the DAC has is coaxial. I looked on the online stores and there are hardly any external USB audio cards/adapters with a coaxial output, let alone one with a good price. Are there any like that available? If not, which other audio adapter like the Avantree DAC would be better, preferably one with a 3.5mm auxiliary input? (I also have a hard time finding those)

    Cable management box for large power strips?

    I ordered two of these small, 10-outlet power strips. I will be plugging in some wall warts, which is where my short power cables come in. Still, I should be able to store them into my cable management boxes. I have a large UPS plugged into my PC and monitor, so I'll have to figure out the cable management for that.