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Everything posted by SenKa

  1. Running something really stressful, like Folding At Home or Blender, all day every day. That board isnt all that great regardless, to be honest.
  2. Thats probably at 24/7 load, and a worst case scenario as others said above.
  3. Whelp, my Define R6 is officially not enough case. 7 PCI-E Slots isnt enough, and its not quite big enough for me to cram a radiator in front of the HDD sleds. So, I've turned to the Define 7 XL. I *love* fractals cases, and being the only brand I'm aware of still building ODD support in to their cases is a big one for me. Is there truly a Define 7 XL competitor that offers similar features with maybe a bit better airflow, while maintaining its massive HDD support and an ODD or two? Or am I truly in a niche in that need and locked in to the fractal ecosystem? Just gauging my options, as if im spending $200 on a case I want to make sure im getting the most I can for that money.
  4. Its called PBO for AMD chips, but same thing
  5. Zen 2 chips can hit 98% of what a manual OC can do just by turning on PBO in BIOS, to be totally fair. If you *really* want that extra maybe 2%, AMD Ryzen Master is your best bet.
  6. Are there any true dual slot 2080 super's that dont suck? I dont currently have the case real estate to fit in anything wider. I COULD upgrade my case, but don't want to if i don't have to even though i probably will anyways in a couple months
  7. 780 is definitely long in the tooth now a days. 100% time for an upgrade. 2060 Super would pair well with that CPU. Might be interested in snagging that 780 off you if/when you upgrade.
  8. Just had my first SATA cable failure in ages, scared me something different because its on my archive drive :/

    1. SenKa


      @NZgamer This *is* my backup solution, but it is nowhere near as robust as i'm comfortable with. Just a single drive.


      Dream would be 4 8TB drives, 2 of which are parity, but I am holding off since WD seems to be slipping out some SMR drives out of late and I want to make SURE I dont get stuck with those.

    2. Pascal...


      @SenKa It's only SMR on the "low end" 1 to 4 TB drives but not on 8 to 16TB ones:


    3. SenKa


      @Pascal... I thought I had read that WD had slipped some SMR 8TB drives in to their Red family. I was wrong.



      Seagate reached out to TechSpot and clarified that it does not market SMR-based hard drives as NAS drives. "Seagate confirms that we do not utilize Shingled Magnetic Recording technology (SMR) in any IronWolf or IronWolf Pro drives." The company's Barracuda 8TB (ST8000DM004) and 5TB Desktop (ST500DM000) were previously called out for using SMR without specifying the tech, however, the drives are not aimed at NAS consumers and should be treated as such.

      Similarly, Toshiba's P300 4TB (HDWD240UZSVA) and 6TB (HDWD260UZSVA) desktop drives aren't directly aimed at the NAS market but they also use SMR without specifying it. In its documentation for the P300, the company says that the drive "delivers high performance for professionals," so buyers should know what they're getting before making a purchase.

      This leaves Western Digital, which notes that its 2TB-6TB Red drives, aimed at NAS consumers, have device-managed SMR (DMSMR), while remaining models in the 8TB-14TB capacities use CMR (Conventional Magnetic Recording).



    4. Show next comments  9 more
  9. Sounds like a GPU thermal issue then. Has the card ever been taken apart and had new thermal paste applied?
  10. Nah, power delivery design matters. It varies WILDLY between boards, which is why we have some AMD boards that can hardly power up a 1300x and others that are commonly used for LN2 overclocking with 3950x's. Im not sure if you have any brand loyalty or preference but pick your poison between brands in anything S-, or A tier. S tier (the highest one) is plain overkill. Again, asus gets my vote, but thats up to opinion.
  11. Its a very popular stress testing tool, it calculates immensely high prime numbers (which takes more CPU power than really any reasonable workload) in order to work your system to its fullest. Here is where you can download it from, if it crashes under this as well I am going to blame the motherboard: https://www.mersenne.org/download/
  12. It's *only* high GPU usage? Does something insanely current hungry like prime 95 small FFT's not trigger the issue?
  13. I cant speak to the accuracy of the motherboard tier list exactly, but i trust it. I've also had enough experience with my 3900x to tell you that a 100A safe-cap wont be enough for a 3950x. You'll have VRM thermal issues and/or current delivery issues. Both could/likely would lead to system instability. I personally wouldn't buy a board lower than B tier, and for such a nice chip I'd recommend an A or higher tier board per the linked above tier list. I'd hope if you are spending for a 3950x you have the money to spend on a good board. Personal recommendation goes to the Asus range of Tier A (or higher) X570 boards as I have had *very* good luck with them as a company and like their BIOS and software. The Tier A boards in question are as follows- X570-F, TUF Plus, Prime Pro, Crosshair VIII Impact, X570-I, X570-P. That recommendation is highly empirical in nature, any will do really.
  14. it will *not* safely work. My 3900x can EASILY pull over the 100A "breaking point" the board seems to have been rated, the 3950x is a more current hungry chip.
  15. My concern would be getting drivers working for 5 1/4 and 8" on Windows 10. 3.5" is easy. In theory it shouldnt be that hard if you have the background in coding, you could make logic converters from 8", 5 1/4", and 3 1/2" to USB. The former two would require quite a bit of work. Pinouts are thankfully quite easy to find. 8"- https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/8InchDisk_pinout.shtml 5 1/4"- https://old.pinouts.ru/HD/5_12_floppy_pinout.shtml 3 1/2"- http://www.interfacebus.com/PC_Floppy_Drive_PinOut.html The way *I* would do it, personally, is have something like an arduino for each of the 3 drives outputting USB, and have them on a switch to avoid driver conflicts. If you actually make this in to a product you will undoubtedly make a decent amount of money. ESPECIALLY for 5 1/4" -> USB adapters, as they have existed in the past but people have quit making them.
  16. The general concensus ive heard is that if you mostly use your tablet as a tablet, the 11" is much easier in size and weight to handle. Though, if you primarily rest it on a desk or some other surface, the larger screen of the 12.9" is preferable. I would personally by the latter, as when i use a tablet it is resting on me or on a desk.
  17. Ah... I had one of those, ended up throwing it in a prebuilt that only needed the few cables i had for it. The only feesable solution would be to make your own PSU cables, which though isnt hard takes a lot of time as you really need to make sure you get it right the first time. I found a seller in Germany that is the 12 and 18pin connectors (the ones you need for your 24 pin). But, the 9 pins are out of stock through that seller. I found another, but theyre $10 a piece. This COULD be feesable cost wise, but is a big time investment and probably not worth it unless you got an absolute STEAL on that PSU. Which, i'd hope you did if it didnt come with any cables... EDIT: Of course you need the bullet terminals as well. I dont know what size they are. 18 pin- https://blacktec-designs.com/de/cablepc-modding/connectors/special/201/18-pin-superflower-psu-connector-transparent 12 pin- https://blacktec-designs.com/de/cablepc-modding/connectors/special/200/12-pin-superflower-psu-connector-transparent 9 pin (out of stock as of right now)- https://blacktec-designs.com/cablepc-modding/connectors/special/199/9-pin-superflower-psu-connector-transparent 9 pin (overpriced)- https://www.moddiy.com/products/Super-Flower-Kingwin-Crystal-9-Pin-Modular-Connector.html
  18. Leadex I, II, or III? It matters here. But i should be able to point you in the right direction with that information
  19. 100% these are keys from people buying java edition. Java edition comes with a free copy of "bedrock", or the Windows 10 version.
  20. Of course its all about perspective, but i think it adds to it. Reminds me of the surface studio to an extent.
  21. I use the DRP4, holds my 3900X a little over base clock under Prime 95 small FFT's with PBO enabled. But, that is near the TDP of the cooler and I have a very aggressive "critical temperature" (the temp it will begin to throttle) set. Overall VERY happy with it, since under a more realistic workload it turbos right up while staying incredibly quiet. To be perfectly honest, I leave the fans on full blast and it is more than acceptable. I personally think the DRP4 looks better than the NHD15 Chromax, but the NHD15 does cool SLIGHTLY better.
  22. Yeah, didnt bug me much at all and clearly didnt bother how i played one bit. He ended up leaving a couple seconds before the game even ended.
  23. Ahhh.... So you have 2 PC's and are connecting the NIC of one to the ethernet of the other PC?
  24. Ah... Why arent you using the onboard ethernet?
  25. Are you running windows 10? Seems there arent any up to date drivers for that board on W10, so even if it shows that its working it might not be. I'd recommend getting a cheap ethernet card and put it in the bottom most PCI-E slot. (The black one) or moving your GPU to the black one and putting the ethernet card in any of the blue ones. I used this card when the ethernet port on my old X58 build got killed in a thunder storm. Worked great. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-1000Mbps-Gigabit-Ethernet-supported/dp/B003CFATNI