EvilKitty

i do not understand the carrier network compatibility junk, the only way i see to know is to have a imei number and put it into the magic black box and see if it says yes or no, i cant really do that till i have the dam thing in hand, i do not care if it is slow i just want to know what my options are for connectivity, in the last 6 months i used data on 2 months they say i used 0.01GB each the UI probably rounded that up i feel like saying screw it phone shopping sucks and just taking a raspberry pi off the shelf and spending a few days making diy case and using it in the car instead of a phone this would solve 90% of my phone usage

i know this is a Chinese brand, if i just get that from amazon will it be English out of the box?

Important features: Has 3.5mm audio jack Has a SD card slot (or a silly amount of storage and cheap; gl w/ that) Cause paying for data so you can pay for a steaming service while hoping you single is good enough just so you can listen to music is stupid Has working wifi roaming (this is what made my stop using a Samsung S5 (mid 2022), it says it is connected but it does not work) Technically I could use a USB hub with a flash drive and a 3.5mm usb dac, but that seems silly when it should be built into the phone and would be annoying to deal without outside of using it in the car Nice to have: physical button i can use for play/pause of music player Quick access to a flashlight on the lock screen camera that takes images that do not look what what i see without my glasses on, preferably better than a $30 point/shoot digital camera from 2005 replaceable battery (i charged the battery on the S4 by using a diff phone and strapping the battery to it as the charge port was shot) i do not care about (w/ phones): What OS it is (apple/android) USB C / Micro USB watching videos playing games finger print sensors, i am never putting bio-metric data on a phone ever, the thing is just annoying waking the phone up when you pull it out of your pocket anyway things that have annoyed the %^&* out of me using a S8 settings to not put apps to sleep do not work, you paused your music app for 30 seconds now you have to unlock the phone again so you can hit play very annoying when you use password unblock and it is not short one, i also hate typing on phones Use case notes: I have been using "BlackPlayer Music Player" cause google music does not allow over 1k songs locally i have near 3k, around 9 days of audio, all i want from a music player is i give it a folder and it plays files from random from it and the sub folders i have been using norootfirewall to prevent apps form accessing the internet that have no reason to where a normal person gets a day out of there phone i get a week (i was still able to get a day or so out of that S5, given i think it was so bad a load spike could kill it) only thing i use a web browser (Firefox focus) for is to load a few bookmarks so i can check the weather and access some DIY home automation aside from that the only thing i use on it is google voice and email, and when i say use i mean just read a message or get notified of one, anything else and i use my desktop as 9 times out of 10 it is faster than trying to type on a phone Why i am bothering to make this post: the screen is cracked on my hand-me-down S8 and the touch has been failing near the top of the phone so my janky workaround for play/pause of music does not work as the part of the screen i need to press does not work to my knowledge even if you get a unlocked phone when you get a service provider they can lock the phone, is that a thing still? assuming my understanding of that was correct (never looked into it cause i do not care about phones, i have only ever used hand-me-down stuff) I do not like phones, i hate using them, and i do not want to deal with them, in my exp they are never worth using over going to a computer where you will be done before you can gen 1/2 though the process on the phone unless you are in a grocery store at the time

got a old pc and time?

the header being shorted could be tripping the psu protections (good job) but that would be unrelated to the cpu vrm, if you can remove the header or separate the broken pins the header will not stop it from turning on

At this time i have a 5 sata port JMB585 M.2 card, either it has micro fractures in the PCB or the thing does not seem to play well with anything i do (maybe it works fine for windows... idk) i have no faith in Jmicron to make a sata controller at this point that behaves under linux Either way i should get something else, so what i am going to do is use a M.2 to PCIe x4 board and my PCIe x4 riser cable and mount a HBA card somewhere I just need 4 sata ports that are reliable and do not just stop working for no dam reason spewing com errors, these are for use with mechanical drives so i would be fine with PCIe 2.0 card

I ran out of the stock epoxy (not paste) that came with a cooler i own , what is a decent one i need to re attach a passive heatsink to a memory IC

Well this is gonna be a late reply... i got busy with stuff... literally every other device in the system, CPU, switch, HDD, cable modem all pull far less dc power yes it does measure the adapter board and the pci card Unless the board s using 2A @ 7v 14 watts total i think the reading is good, if it were using 7v power i would pick up the same 2A on both the 12 and 5v lines, but what could possibly want 7v?

it should be fine, that said that unit should have had a 5 year warranty, i know mine recently hit 10 years old... guess i can get another 2 years out of it... also had a old 3 year warranty 300W seasonic go out on me, found a EVGA SuperNOVA 550 GA to replace it on sale from evga for 57.23 shipped w/ tax about 2 months ago and so far so good (server duty)

it has a molex plug input and i made my own cables without sleeving https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZHDK4Q https://i.imgur.com/vMuWs01.jpg - DIY cables on PSU (i got annoyed with molex extension plugs, heave the odd plug thing)

clamp meter

everything else i measure with it seems believable maybe the PCIe to PCI adapter uses a lot of power? i was measuring the power going into the PCB that the PCI card slots into ASMedia Technology Inc. ASM1083/1085 PCIe to PCI Bridge i can't really measure the difference due to lack of ability to get a meter between the pins inside of the pci slot

So i have a old sound card, a SB0350 along with a SB0250 (not included in power draw) connected by a PCIe to PCI adapter and i was checking current draw with my clamp meter and noticed a surprising amount of power draw turned out to by the sound card 12v @ 1.4A and 5v @ 2A that is about 26 Watts total, for a sound card that sounds crazy, i realize it is around 20 years old, but does anyone know if that is normal or does that sound like a bad capacitor with high leakage

12v for modem, 1 12v for gigabit switch, 1 12v boost converter -> audio amp, 1 12v for creative T12 speakers, 1 5v for pair of DACs, 1 12/5v for pcie -> pci adapter board 2 molex for x4 hdd cage,1 molex for case fan, 4x sata for SSDs, 1 sata for hdd, 1 FDD plug for a sb0250 estimated system power draw is under 60 watts, maybe a little more with some synthetic stress testing software I do not know german... the old psu came from newegg back in the FM1 socket erra

New PSU had 2 sata x 3 cables, 1 molex x4 cable, 1 PCIe x1, and 1 PCIe x2 cable that config was not gonna cut it I am tired of dealing with molex plugs and I came across something that is called a SPL-2 and so far i like it i could have sleeved them, but then it is a real PITA to get readings using a clamp meter