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About EvilKitty

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  1. Just a heads up the cooler on that model is really bad, they could not even use the correct size thermal pads under the backplate (there is only 1 next to the vrm and it is 1/2 the thickness it needs to be) The memory cooling prevent proper mounting pressure on the core to keep thermals under control Here is a full tear-down of the card: https://imgur.com/a/DvthwXb just cause the cooler sucks does it make it bad, you can upgrade a cooling solution
  2. I have a second hand Gigabyte RX 580 8GB GV-RX580GAMING-8GD Rev 1.0 The vBIOS that was on it was made for a card with H5GC8H24MJR, however the card has H5GQ8H24MJR ICs, the voltage was also set to 900mv and the last 3 memory straps are all the same (1750/2000/2250) What I have done is take this vBIOS and change everything in the editor that is not memory related and make it match the vBIOS this I pulled off the card, but i would like to have a original in case there is something different like a vrm switching frequency or something, i tried to get a vBIOS from Gigabyte, but the only way they are gonna give it to me is for me to RMA the card and i do not want to deal with that
  3. Update: Using 2 100k resistors works fine until you try to turn on both the mic and headphones and which point they both read off hard to believe using less than taking 0.036 milliamps causes a problem using a pair of 470k resistors does work, however the LEDs are very dim as the gate is not very open on the transistor using 168k (100k+68k) also works, but the leds are very dim i think i am gonna use 4 2n2222a transistors to make a pair of darlington transistors
  4. I ran into a issue with this design when connecting the 1.8v send to the base of the 2n2222a it randomly enables the mic and or headphone when using 1k as well as 22k resistors maybe i need more ohms to work around this, lets try 1 mill... well that works but the led is very dim since the gate is barley open at all, so i tried 100k it seems to work well at least with a single transistor, but that is enough to very if this will work, maybe i'll need more when using 2
  5. So this is the wiring solution i have come up with: Now if GIMP only had spell check...
  6. enabling headphone disables rear audio guess i will have to use a button toggle, unless someone knows a way to make it work, what on earth is this case trying to do with it's audio out? was it some custom audio detect AC97 system?
  7. So i have done some multimeter checking From the boards audio jack the wires goes to a 14 pin out female plug (13 has no pin, no it is not numbered): 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 14 I believe the extra pins are to accommodate a audio line in, i turned the separate lead for this into a extension to make a rear I/O passthrough as no board has such a header My motherboard has this pin out for it's audio header: From here i labeled the pin out of the case's audio cable (pin arrangement in code block above) [pin] [name] - [MB pin] 1 L Headphone - 9 2 Detect Mic - 6 3 Detect Headphone - 10 4 R Headphone - 5 5 L Line Out 6 M Line Out 7 NC 8 R Line Out 9 R Mic - 3 10 Sense Send - 7 11 NC 12 L Mic - 1 14 Ground - 2 from there i did a connectivity check between every pin 1 to 03 when no headphone 2 to 04 when no headphone 3 to 01 when no headphone 4 to 02 when no headphone 5 to 07 when no line in 6 to 08 when no line in 7 to 05 when no line in 8 to 06 when no line in 9 to 11 when no mic 10 to 12 when no mic 11 to 09 when no mic 12 to 10 when no mic 14 Ground I also reverse traced from the jacks to see where they go with a TRRS cable *order is from the base of the TRRS cable to the tip (Base, Ring, Ring, Tip) Line in (CTIA standard) 14 Ground 6 Mic 8 Right 5 Left Mic (CTIA standard) 14 Ground 14 Mic 12 Right 9 Left Line out (CTIA standard) 14 Ground 14 Mic 4 Right 1 left I did test jumping Sense send to detect and it reads it as a jack detection i am guessing i can just jump these 3 pins or put it on a button to turn the mic/headphones on/off as i see no way to make it work like it should
  8. Well i just had enough fun for one night after jumping the wire, no boot screen, windows shows up at wrong res and cant change clear bios now i have nothing swap in old GTX 600 Series gpu now i can get into the bios! while trying to boot several of my linux ISO files from my flash drive and nit getting to the desktop, i managed t find a error: something about a missing EDID on HDMI one, well i know a EDID is proved from a display and to proved video config data, well if there is no EDID being givein to the PC that explains the video issue, lets try the other HDMI port, well now it works... jump audio wire in pc -> display will no longer provide EDID on the HDMI port i was using, what kind of black magic can use that as a cause to make that effect jumping the wire to ground via USB plug had no effect what so ever
  9. My case's audio header has 8 pins populated (it is a old HP case, no older than 2003), pin 4 is not populated, since AC97 has 5 pins occupied and HD audio has 9 pin occupied, i am guessing this header uses proposed standard that was not complete, can this be made or rigged to with with a modern motherboard? i did manage to fine this image: should i just jump pin 4 to ground to make it work?
  10. the work load was prime95 for those temps
  11. I know that is the main reason deliding makes temps better (hence why i did not bother with liquid metal), but my core to core delta temps where horrible before the delid, the 1st core was horrible before the delid and is just as horrible now compared the the 4th core Right after i applied my new NT-H1 paste my 4th and 1st core were within 1C of each other Before delid at 1.3v i would get 93, 93, 94, 80 for core temps after delid with expired NT-H1 i got 83, 82, 85, 78 (1.315v) after delid with new NT-H1 i got 79, 83, 85, 80 (1.385v) i just wonder why core 1 likes to be the one to get hot and core 4 like to stay cool i was not aware pump-out was a thing
  12. Thanks, though i had this same issue with the stock paste before the delid, though not quite to the same degree, 14C delta at 1.3V Really did not want to spend the money on liquid metal, i see it as better spent on a B550 motherboard next year assuming ryzen 3000 turns out to be as good as expected
  13. I have a NH-D14 on a Z97 ASRock board with a i5-4690K 2 weeks ago i delided my CPU 2 weeks ago (using paste, not liquid metal) and temps were pretty good last week i replaced my paste (brand new NT-H1) cause my temps went bad (it was expired paste, so...) anyway after applying brand new paste i was able to but my vcore to 1.385v with safe temps in prime95 (79,83,85,80) now a week later i can not even do 1.3v with acceptable temps, delta temps are silly again (91,85,83,75) * I did not leave my CPU running at over 1.3v for a week, only did a few benchmarks and went back to my normal 1.26v The only thing i can think of is the paste is being mashed to the top of the die/ihs cause the motherboard is mounted vertical in my case and a NH-D14 is a massive cooler, guess i could try rotating the cooler 180° but the noctua branding would be upside down
  14. The phone is a strait talk one form Walmart
  15. My mom destroyed her screen today, the LCD and glass are shot touch still works not that you can see anything The model is SM-G930VL(GP) I saw on iFixit's website they have 4 screens, one for each big phone company (Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile, and Sprint) does it actually matter which one i get, if so do i get the verizon version for this model?