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About Bitter

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  1. Can't show it cause it's still shipping, but a somewhat used Toshiba N300 6TB hard drive for $85 shipped, not sure how used exactly so hopefully it's a good deal. It's about 1/2 off new price so hopefully it's got more than 1/2 of it's life left! I'm sniping an auction for another one from the same seller with the intention to have a pair in a NAS. If I don't win the other one then I'm not exactly sure what but if the drive isn't loud I could toss it in my HTPC to replace the 1.5TB WD Green that's getting on in age.
  2. I can walk like 1000ft to an Advance Auto for most things I need or order to store to pickup later, that's pretty convenient. Otherwise I just order online from Amazon/Rockauto or get it from one of our suppliers sent to work on account then add tax and pay my boss back for it.
  3. Reasoning for that is because the top of the case has the magnetic filter so I figure that might have a chance of getting pulled and cleaned from time to time and won't get broken, unlike the front panel which requires both side panels and a careful yank to pull and then is still attached by many cables and is very difficult to clean out. The magnetic filter is something they can do easily, the rest of the case is something I can clean if they bring it to me from time to time.
  4. Built a PC for a friend, finally finished it (for now). Ryzen 5 1600 'AF' at stock speeds under a Wraith Prism cooler, stays under 65C no matter what. MSI B450 Tomahawk motherboard EVGA 650GQ Gold power supply 16GB DDR4 3200 from G.Skill Silicon Power 512GB NVMe (SU512GBP34A80M28AB) Asus Strix GTX 950 2GB DDR5 (on loan until a good deal pops up) Cougar MX330-G Case, ATX tower with tinted tempered glass side panel 5x Arctic P12 120mm Case fan A few odds and ends (IO shield, cables, light strips, etc) $450 Here's the ugly side, this is the first time I've really 'cable managed' a PC to look pretty so pardon the mess. Here's the pretty side, I think I did kind of OK? And here's a video of the lighting effect. I used my old trick of running some LED strips off an unused fan header in DC mode to ramp brightness in accordance to CPU temps. I think it's a nice effect, the harder you game the brighter it glows. Pardon my potato quality video there, also the rear fan was absent for RMA. It's a lot more vivid and bright in person, it's difficult to get an accurate looking video of the effect.
  5. You'd need to figure out for how much time the card would be ran at the full power or how much power you'd use on average from the card, then figure out your local electricity rate, then do the math to see the difference. I don't know what your electric rate is or how they bill electric delivery, if it's a flat fee or by KWH, or how fees and taxes are compiled for that either.
  6. The only reason to buy a 1650 is a case when there's a very tight power budget and you must meet it, like the card must be slot powered only or there's a really strict thermal envelope where the 70W 1650 is a must. Or of course you got one for really cheap!
  7. If you send it in for data recovery they'll just change the board over to a new one, you can do that yourself with a used board or a used drive from eBay. The only other option would be to get a bread board and solder wires to the pins and make a break out for the SATA data and then connect the break out to a cable via a bare port connected to the bread board. If you knew how/had the skills to do that I'm pretty sure you'd have already swapped the board tho. Swap the board. You need to match the same version of the board that you have now, there may be a couple different revisions.
  8. What load line calibration are you running? If you're running at stock speeds then likely the lowest or 2nd to lowest LLC is fine, you can probably also undervolt on an offset as well. I've got a 1600AF at a -0.150 offset and a very low LLC running all cores at 1.00 volts and idling/randomly boosting at 1.05 to 1.1 volts. My 2700X is a -0.125 offset with the 2nd lowest LLC and stays under 1.4 volts all the time. I'm going for the lowest stable volts to drop temps to let the CPU's boost themselves as much as possible with the lowest power use, high efficiency is good.
  9. Replaced my old maxi pads fuse block with a new mini anal one. Old one was getting rotten and dropped out power sometimes.
  10. I'll have to check that, any good suggestions? I was going to run my color calibrator (spyder) on it to see how it does vs 75hz but that's a good 2 hour process at least. At 75hz it was just as good as at 60hz, 99.something sRGB and high 70 or low 80% Adobe RGB I think. The display has good colors which is the main reason I got it, just found it scary it would run so fast. Actually I'm on my way there right now! I don't know much of anything about overclocking a monitor except that it usually either works or it doesn't, I've never had a display go this grossly past it's stated specs. How can I find out what panel is in this monitor without taking it apart?
  11. Pretty much it's all in the title, but just for grins and giggles I decided to see how much past the stated 60hz refresh rate my Dell S2718D monitor would go and I just had it running at 120hz which is double what it's supposed to be able to do. What's going on here? Things don't normally work out like this for me. I was surprised when I was able to run it at 75hz and have been using it that refresh rate for a bit of time now but overall haven't been using the display (or PC) much. I worked up in steps of 5hz creating custom monitor resolutions/refresh rate settings in Adrenalin software then applying them from Windows settings (as is how it's done, a little different than my Nvidia control panel I'm used to). I had the UFO tearing test running in Firefox checking each time, once I hit 100hz I decided to just go for it and jump to 120hz and it worked. I didn't believe it so I went right to the https://www.testufo.com/refreshrate UFO refresh rate test as well as to https://www.vsynctester.com and re-opened those pages in Chromium for Windows (the base of Chrome but without the Google stuff) and it says I'm doing 120hz. Did I win the lottery here with this display? Will it explode and catch fire then murder me in my sleep? Is it possible that Dell just de-rated this display on paper? How do I tell if this is safe for long term use? WHAT IS HAPPENING? I never have good luck like this so pardon my skepticism.
  12. That's a solid rig, they're still usable today for internetty things and older games. A decent graphics card would go a long way and a bit of an overclock with even a modest air cooler over the stock intel shorty.
  13. I'll take it off your hands, just give me $50 to take care of it for you. Actually no, I won't even charge you for the honor.