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Bitter

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  1. I would imagine that it is and probably so Big Honda can track service trends or for warranty purposes or something. So me and the other guy were having an interesting conversation about warranty work at dealers, we came up with a theory but I'd like your input. Car companies paying less for warranty work is a win/win for the company. 1. it costs less to repair in warranty vehicles. 2. it disincentivizes techs from reporting problems that would be covered under warranty because they'll be paid crap for fixing it, which makes it cost less to the company in turn because less under warranty 'oh hey we noticed this oil leak while we were doing your tires' happens because they won't get paid fairly for fixing that oil leak so why even mention it, just wait till it's out of warranty. Thoughts?
  2. That's pretty cool actually. Our 134a machine is like way old and all manual.
  3. I have not yet, nor do we have a machine for it currently, but that makes sense given the higher pressures. I mean I already let the machine run on vacuum and then let it sit, then vacuum again, then recharge. The second vacuum lets me get the last bits of moisture/air out if the system has been open for a while. Sometimes if you pull vacuum then go away for a bit and don't pull it again the stuff will out gas from the oil and push it back up to positive pressure so it does a neon green bukakke shot when you pull a line off, usually that's the older cars with bigger systems that hold a lot more oil. The newer leaner systems don't exhibit that behavior it seems.
  4. I'm sure that's what happened, it's a Ody but there's not any trim on the back, but that should be contained in the VIN, no? So basically someone didn't do their job, typical. Had an alternator come that was wrong, called on it, guy says only the one they sent is listed, go through describing it, text them flippin pictures, call back 'oh yea that a 7764 it's an option listed for that engine' SO WHY DIDN'T YOU ASK WHEN WE ORDERED OR TELL ME THERE WAS ONLY ONE OR JUST SEND BOTH! Then Carquest sends an axle for an AWD vehicle, it's wrong, look it up on Advance Auto website because they carry CQ, they sent what's listed for AWD but it's incorrect, the correct axle is what's listed for FWD. As I'm about to call with the correct number I go back to the website to just double check and THE WEBSITE IS DOWN FOR MAINTENANCE AT 2PM ON A FRIDAY.
  5. It was not. A7 has a bunch of extra stuff the A6 does not so unless you swap the pcm and harness too...
  6. And the dealer, THE DEALER, sent valve covers for J35A6 somehow. A7 valve covers won't be here till Monday afternoon. Nice. How does the dealer get us the wrong part number by VIN?
  7. Absolutely, as long as they're glass fiber reinforced they'll be fine. I bought one of those handy dandy serpentine belt grabber installer things, finally.
  8. Yea, they're great to have but the same set is sold by someone else for 1/2 on Amazon but hell, if you don't buy anything they stop coming by so you can't warranty your tools. GearWrench sells the set, minus a couple 9/16th sockets which you only need for like...all the new cars.
  9. I did that twice and nothing attached. Just tried again, nada. Weird! Anyways... J35A7, how NOT to install spark plug tube seals. Came in for some oil leaks, diagnosed by the new guy as leaky valve cover gaskets, he takes it apart, pops out one tube seal, asks me if I've ever seen corroded aluminum INSIDE a valve cover like this. On the inside where the seal sits it just looks some rotten aluminum and bubbled paint. The outside was caked with shit and not easy to see but looking closely I spotted that the valve cover was just decimated by some idiot trying who installed the tube seals previously. I've seen lots of dumb stuff but to bust 2 of 3 on one valve cover and then (not pictured) bust 2 of 3 on the other valve cover too..that's just willful ignorance bordering on idiocy.
  10. So how do you install J35A7 tube seals? Not however the last guy did. Wait, no attachments from mobile?
  11. Well I mean they do have great initial quality, until the paint wears off all the buttons.
  12. Yep, I have plain stainless steel currently to match the chrome plated Lexus strikers, but then I saw the red and that matches the rest of the red on my car soo...I had to. My today was fun too, boss has left to handle some family things with his parents and won't be back till next week sometime I guess. So not only are we short a tech now cause he works in the shop with us too but there's also not the guy who owns the place to make the final call on stuff, so that falls to me more or less. Fun times.
  13. My "TRD" red door striker covers came, unfortunately I can only order them in quantity of 4 and they take a few weeks to come in, but I think it was worth it. Anyone want to hazard a guess at the cost? They're a wonderful candy red in person over a brushed stainless background, the finish isn't flawless but it's really good, better than it needs to be to cover my door strikers.
  14. Bitter

    Is TG Kryonaut "pump out" a real issue?

    Is that because of the finely polished surface vs two surfaces which have slight imperfections that 'hold' the compound in place? I can't recall if I've ever re-visited a bare die I did AS5 on but I can't recall having any issues with one either. I think maybe old 9800GT I pulled off a long time after doing AS5 and it was still in place fine. I guess I'll give KN a shot with IHS stuff like my Chinese 4980HQ and find something else for bare die stuff like the 4980HQ in her MacBookPro not that it would make a lot of difference, I don't think there's enough heat sink or airflow there.
  15. Bitter

    Is TG Kryonaut "pump out" a real issue?

    I always have spread thermal compound from back in the days of Socket 370 (before that it wasn't really a thing needed), I have a spring steel small diameter 'wire' which is perfectly straight with a little handle of wire bent off of it that I used to spread the compound with as little wasted as possible. I apply a dot then use the steel spreader to pull it across the die from the center outward and then spread across the die to even the surface and make a perfectly uniform perfectly smooth layer of compound that's as thin as possible with zero disturbances in it's surface. My application is perfect every time with my own weird method I've come up with over the years. Spatulas and spreaders create uneven application which can create air pockets and thick/thin spots and build up expensive compound (remember, AS5 used to cost A LOT more than it does now) on their edges. The round steel spring wire has no edges. Anyway, this is all great talk and information, but doesn't really deal with long term performance. I'm a 'set it and forget it' kind of guy. I want great performance, yes, but I also want to keep great performance. Obviously something like liquid metal would be the be all end all here but there's constraints on it's use and concerns about it's interactions with copper long term, especially concerns with use in a laptop.
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