ArcticEngineer

Thanks! Can you please help me? The strips I have also have the option to use this 3 pin connector that looks likes it is for fans. My previous rgb strips have that same connector but 4 pin and it was adapted into a 4 pin 5v connector that was for aura sync. Idk where this 3 pin connector goes on my motherboard. Thanks again!

I have a strix b350 and I recently purchased some Phanteks Neon RGB strips and I want to sync them with Aurasync. All my rgb headers are 4 pin and I have some 4 pin splitters. But the rgb strips have a pin out 3 pin and all my splitters are 4 pin. I’m thinking out just snapping one of the pins on the splitter because they’re expendable, but is there any other solution? More info can be provided, thanks for any help!

Title describes the problem. I have a Dell-Inspirion 5378 and it's a 2 in 1 (Tablet and Computer). When ever I try to convert it into tablet mode, the volume slides to max and when I try to adjust it, it continues to go to max. Vice versa for computer mode, when I try to use it as a computer, the volume slides down and adjusting it won't help. I've tried the usual of reinstalling realtek drivers but nothing seems to work. Thanks for any help.

oh ok.

How does this compare to just using a shaders mod?

Consider good networking, I tried running a server on MC on WIFI and it didn't go well. Also I didn't know they made 15gb sticks?

The title is basically what it is. I tried all the requisite fixes (charging it, holding down the power button, and holding down volume up and power down buttons.) but nothing seems to be working. Could I possibly have a dead phone? Any help is appreciated thanks.

So I've decided to upgrade my old Kumara K552 and so far, I'm loving the blue switches. But now I want a new keyboard with new switches. As of currently, my contenders are the Razer Green Switch, Razer Opto-Mechanical Switch, Kailh Jade or Navy switch, or just a simple blue switch again. I do heavy typing work and I want a switch that is really tactile and clicky. Also, a wrist rest would be nice. TKL is preferred, but Standard 104 is fine. Any suggestions?

Hello people! I'm back on this forum to ask for help. I have 2 problems with this mouse PROBLEM 1 So I can never update the firmware. I always followed the steps of Corsair ICUE, but it gets stuck at 0% and then my mouse "disconnects" and doesn't get recognized by ICUE. I believe this is a problem with the mouse instead of the software, because I also own a Void Pro and I can update it's firmware just fine and it gets recognized 100% of the time. This might lead to problem number 2 PROBLEM 2 So whenever I power on the mouse and the RGB disappears from the DPI levels and the DPI is super high and unusable. I plug in the cable and turn it off and then on, sometimes this solves it, but not always. This also happens when the mouse goes to sleep and then I use it again. I was just wondering how I can solve this problem and if it requires a factory reset.

I have a 240mm AIO so I should be fine, thanks for the help!

I currently don't have the case as I'm changing cases, I'm only considering this case. Although I do have all my hardware, including AIO, Motherboard, and Ram. I found this picture off the internet which leads me to believe that I'm ok, unless there are any red flags with this photo

I believe I have a B350-F Strix and Geil Luce Super RGB Ram. I believe the Ram is about the size of Trident Z RGB and the mobo's VRM heatsink are kind of high

Hey guys! I have a lot of post on this forum about cases and I was wondering about the Lian Li Lancool One White. Lian Li claims on their site that they can fit 120mm, 240mm, and 360mm radiators on the top. But when I look at the case, the top clearance looks so small and doesn't look like it could fit a radiator and fans. I believe I have a ML240L, with the radiator being 27mm thick and the fans 25mm thick.

How short does the ram have to be

yes I will, I believe they're the rgb ones included with the MasterBox Pro 5. I also have dedicated fans that came from the radiator so it'll be essentially push pull

Hey people! I'm switching cases soon and I need to decide where to place my radiator. I'm considering getting the Meshify C and it has options for top or front mount. From my understanding, front mount gives lower CPU but higher GPU and top mounting gives lower GPU but higher CPU temps. I do a lot of heavy gaming and video editing and my CPU runs at around 55C and my GPU at around 74C. I really want to do top mounting for the aesthetics but will it hurt my CPU temps?I've read answers on other forums and it seems that people say front mounting is better. My current case is the MasterBox Pro 5 and I front mount my 240mm radiator.

Do you have it personally? If so, I’m concerned about it’s airflow as the gap looks small.

I just need a suggestion as I’m moving cases soon and I’m stuck on either of those 2. The matrexx 55 WH is around 65$ and the Sigma is 80$ (USD). I think these cases are both great but I really need an opinion on which one to get

Hey guys! My friend wants to play some battlefront at 1080p but his computer currently rocks integrated graphics. He’s looking for a budget GPU to add to his system. I believe it has an intel I3 4170 at 3.7 GHz. He doesn’t need anything fancy, just a budget GPU to give him something playable. I attached a photo of his system

I tried both ways, YT sound is still working, its just that games will not

Yes I did that, but still no audio on games

How do you do that?

My Logitech Speakers, Integrated Speakers

Or you could just buy Ryzen 2000 chips cheap once Ryzen 3000 comes out. Otherwise, looks good!

You could probably modify it in the BIOS