JTrevail

When I built my PC in an xbox chassis, I found a working black xbox online, and transplanted the internals into my dead translucent green xbox. The working hardware has since died; there are signs of dead capacitors and some lines that need to be jumpered. I would like this machine to go to a good home, even just to use the chassis.

I did a thing: bracket.stl

I'm using the Noctua NH-L9a on my Ryzen 5 2600, that improved my temps greatly. I also upgraded to a GTX 1650 OC LP. There are external power supplies that can run a bundle to a daughter board inside the case, that might keep your setup clean, but I didn't feel it respected the spirit of a sleeper build. I reverse engineered the controller port bracket and had a buddy print it out for me. I had to trim it a bit before installation. If anyone is interested, I will rev it up and share the STL file.

Better than nothing

7 hours after launch and support finally listened to me.

I'm in Canada; I contacted support via chat, email, and I even tweeted at them. I've been told twice now by support that the 4a has NIR. I just wanted to point out the mistake.

I tried to tell them, but they wouldn't listen. I don't think the 4a has NIR, but support insists it does. Will I get some sort of bug bounty? No, probably not https://store.google.com/product/pixel_4a https://store.google.com/magazine/compare_pixel NIR.txt

The Book of Eli

I actually fit a low profile GPU, so the 500W PSU isn't actually necessary, but it also isn't overkill. I also replaced the fan in PSU with a Noctua. I gutted the console, so the metal case is gone, but I retained the rigidity by keeping the four outer posts in the case, and by fastening the PSU right to the bottom of the case. The PSU is now structural lol, as is the DVI port.

I'm using a 500W internal PSU. I've looked into using the original controller ports, but I'm not comfortable disabling the integrity checks on my machine.

Yes, they are both momentary tactile buttons; they momentarily short the power pins. In series they would almost work as a security feature (you would have to click both at once).

There are unsigned drivers for the original controllers. I have my LEDs set up the same as you, but I put the power and eject buttons in parallel.

My IKEA setup: I used a VIVO adapter VESA mount quick release bracket and a 3/4" thick plank to mount a ViewSonic VA2252SM 22" 1080p monitor mirrored to my 50" plasma (off to the right). The desk is a Vittsjö, so is the TV unit. I could probably do some cable management My system: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1024823-the-fastest-xbox-of-all-time/?do=findComment&comment=12224124

Zotac GTX 1050ti low-profile, but the CPU and the PSU can handle a better low-profile GPU down the line. I'm not using a riser.

Something is wrong, maybe test the LEDs and the switches to make sure they aren't sharing a ground on the PCB or something. It's weird that the lights are still on though. Does the PC run ok if you start it with a screwdriver without the front panel connected?