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_Hustler_One_

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Everything posted by _Hustler_One_

  1. _Hustler_One_
    But with that volts it doesnt crash with other test software
  2. _Hustler_One_
    I set 1.1v for stock 3.7GHz, and auto LLC
  3. _Hustler_One_
    Yes, I run a small FFTs, but what I cant understand is even I disable my OC, and let it run stock clock without Turbo boost, it still crashing. It crashed before the temps are high enough, still at 60C and it crashed.
  4. _Hustler_One_
    Then I think I'll just get rid the Prime95. Thanks guys..
  5. _Hustler_One_
    Not even in the 1st minute my PC cant passed the test. Run Small FFTs, just for the 1st few seconds my PC went down with "Whea_Uncorrectable_Errors" BSOD every time I tried to run the test.
  6. _Hustler_One_
    Oh well. I also use Cinebench R20, it never give me BSODs.. Which one between Cinebench vs Blender is more reliable to trust the result?
  7. _Hustler_One_
    Which one between Prime95 vs Aida64 result is more reliable to trust?
  8. _Hustler_One_
    Hi guys.. I always use Realbench and Aida64 to stress test my CPU they mostly completed the stress test to show me that my system is stable. Lately I installed Prime95, when I 1st time run stress test on it, instant BSOD Whea_Uncorrectable_Errors, 2nd try same, 3rd try same even I disable my CPU OC and turn off the turbo boost. Stock 3.7GHz still BSOD only with Prime95, with Realbench and Aida64 not even single BSOD. Could someone point me out what happen here?
  9. _Hustler_One_
    No, but you need to update some drivers after the swap. I did that on my PC when I swapped my motherboard. There was no deactivation of the windows. That is what I experienced.
  10. _Hustler_One_
    Here, I found this comparison chart. You'd better use DS4 for its better latency than XB1S controller. XB1S controller has 17ms input lag. LOL
  11. _Hustler_One_
    It's in pull config. Surprisingly I only need to take off the PSU and bend the ATX cable further down, slipped the fan in from the space where the PSU was. The temps still same as before, nice and cool. I tested with a very thin tissue paper to see if the cooler is sucking enough air from the side panel vents despite its new configuration, and it still pulling the air strong enough at less than 1000 rpm. The top dual 120mm exhaust fans takes the job for pulling the heat out since they're also very very close to the heatsink, so the heat is being exhausted instantly.
  12. _Hustler_One_
    UPDATE: I kind of managed to move the NH-C14S fan, from the front to the back of its heatsink. Thankfully the SF600 24pin ATX cable not too stiff to bend, to give a bit more space for the NF-A14 to fit behind the heatsink. We got the HDD mountings overlapped the heatsink for about 1cm and spare a gap around 5mm and also between the CPU cooler fan and the PSU, leave around 1cm gap Now we don't have any contacts here on the side panel since the fan was moved to the oposite side of the heatsink. We now have the NH-C14S in pull configuration, and add a single 2.5" SSD and a single 3.5" HDD. So basically now I utilize almost all features of the QBX. It got no excuses for me to leave its functionalities to be left out unused. The only compromise is I can't install a pair of 25mm thick 120mm fans on the bottom under the GPU as the GPU fans will grind the 120mm fan's frame and makes scary grinding sounds. I dont take an option to use slim 120mm fans on the bottom, so I'll leave it like this for sometimes.
  13. _Hustler_One_
    My RGB is activated only on this section, the buttons which I frequently use the most when I play game. I make some certain color zonations depends on the function of each keys in the game, but after I ended my gaming session I turn it off. Thanks to Ducky's onboard RGB controller, I can control my RGB right on the keyboard itself with hotkey combinations without needing a software to control it. I dont have any RGB except on my keyboard and mouse, but I also dont turn the RGB on of my mouse in sake of its battery life and basically RGB on a mouse is useless. *again, Im sorry for the poor quality grainy pic..
  14. _Hustler_One_
    I use this one, and it works fine, but the latency is not so good.. It just connects to any built-in bluetooth. My PC has built-in bluetooth and it connects it just fine without any additional receiver. Simple plug and play with Windows 10. I can see the input lags on this controller are real either in wireless or wired mode. I use it to play Monster Hunter World, and that game needs so much accurate timing in split seconds in most of fights, so I sometimes missed a critical action with it. I dont know if DS4 has the same input lags or the better one than the Xbox One S controller.
  15. _Hustler_One_
    Other than DP, the DVI can also deliver 144Hz without audio, so you need a dedicated audio connection if you have built in speakers on your monitor.
  16. _Hustler_One_
    Today I wondered if maybe someone has the curiousity about how the slim ODD is ejected out of the QBX looks like. I guess most of people only know how the slim ODD is installed but never see how it's ejected out. This thing comes handy when I need to use any disc for some uses. It's basically a laptop ODD. The spring can't push the tray out high enough because it against gravity. Only small part of the tray which popped out then I have to pull it higher. This is after I pulled it out higher, but still can be extended further. Anyway, Im still waiting for the custom cable to arrived in next few days, and I'm really curious how the RX5700 and RTX Super will be. Waiting for independent reviews to show us some good things.
  17. _Hustler_One_
    The best air cooler for that 160mm clearance are Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT and Noctua NH-U12A and Scythe Fuma, the NH-U12A is the most expensive, the El Macho is cheaper and performs at the same level as the U12A, Fuma has better value than the others. I would personally get the El Macho.
  18. _Hustler_One_
    When 3, it was 3! enemy's Heavy Tanks YOLOed you while you are alone without support around you in a small corridor. Not-even-pro-tip: 1. Aim its tracks! and destroy him in desperations. 2. Just face-hug and push him to the wall, aim the weakest spot FTW! 3. Sidescrapping to bounce his shots. (Who said that World of Tanks is a Pay-to-Win game? No premium ammo was needed to win the battle here!) Battle scores:
  19. _Hustler_One_
    Or Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT? It performs similar to NH-D15, while being cheaper, 159mm height, only 1060 grams despite its massive size. Also more quiet than D15. It's worth to check.. Can also used without fan as a passive cooler.
  20. _Hustler_One_
    Sugooooi..!!!
  21. _Hustler_One_
    Not even close.. http://www.logicalincrements.com/articles/graphicscardcomparison
  22. _Hustler_One_
    Or simply run the exhaust at higher RPM and run the triple intake as lowest as possible before changing any stuff.
  23. _Hustler_One_
    I think you know that tower cooler is for CPU, but his problem is on GPU not on the CPU. The OP didnt even mention he got CPU temps problem. He opened the case and get 5C drops on the GPU, this indicate that the case has poor vents for supplying fresh air inside it.
  24. _Hustler_One_
    I dont see any ventilation holes on the front panel of the second choice of the case, that's a big NO for it. Risking thermals for looks. But there are some vents for 2 fans on the side. I would get the firts choice, despite it's smaller but it has some vents on the front, and I hope it helps the thermals.
  25. _Hustler_One_
    When you open the case and it drop the temps that much then I guess most likely the problem is the case doesnt have good ventilation to cool the components inside it sufficiently. I dont see any ventilation holes in front of the case except on its right side of the front panel which I guess is not enough to feed the components inside it with good amount of fresh air from it. You got RGB but you heat what you got inside it. That's a common problem with some cases, trades the cooling capability off for looks..
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