lithium_6
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Thanks a lot for your suggestion. I purchased MSI WiFi 6 PCIe adapter. Night and day, with my previous TP-Link USB dongle my maximum transfer rate over my wifi network was 4 MB/s Now with this new adapter my transfer rate went up to 90 MB/s
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Thanks for the links. I will try a PCIe that doesn't extend over the x1 slot. Otherwise, I will try the adapter.
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I'm using a minitower case with Micro Atx MB. I don't have that much real state available. The PCI card was pretty big, I used an Archer T6E that was 4.8 x 4.5 x 0.85 in. I'm going to look for adapters, I didn't know that I can use them.
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Hi all, A year ago I build a system for a small 3D printer shop. I used a Gigabyte B450 DS3H MB I wasn't concerned about WiFi at that time, I was running everything over ethernet. But I got a new printer and different layout in the shop, so I had to get a WiFi dongle to connect to the printer and internet. I have a TP-Link usb adapter, but it has been very unreliable. Every time I plug a USB device or if I transfer large file to an external SSD or USB drive it drops the connection. Sometimes I get a BSOD. I troubleshoot the issue and it is the WiFi dongle. I tried different drivers to no avail. I purchased a PCIE wifi adapter and works fine but it covered the intake of my GPU so I returned. I was about to buy an Intel WiFi 6 (Gig+) AX200 but I realized it is M.2 Key A-E and my motherboard only has a M.2 M-Key 2242/2260/2280/22110. Is it possible to use and adapter? or can you recommend me a different solution or wifi adapter? Thanks.
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Thanks for the help, just a quick update. Finally got my ram to run stable. For some reason my motherboard was doing 1.2v even with XMP enabled, so I enabled XMP Profile 1 (3200 Mhz 16-18-18-36) and manually increased the voltage to 1.35V. After that it was stable. I don't know why my MB was pushing only 1.2V but that seemed to be the issue. Perhaps down the road I will take my time and start playing with timings.
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Yes, 2933 MHz has worked fine with the original 16GB (2x8GB). I think is not defective, might be just an incompatibility with with my MB. 2933 MHz is working fine and according to AMD specs that is the maximum ram speed for my 2600. Perhaps I should follow your advice, for now I’m just going to run it at 2933 with XMP disabled and sell it in the future or maybe if I upgrade my system later in the road with new specs that incompatibility disappears
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Quick update, I just tested my original kit and it fails when I go over 2933 MHz I have running that kit
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I need some help with my RAM settings. I purchased a kit of Corsair DDR4 2x8GB 3200MHz (CMK16GX4M2B3200C16). I already had one these kits installed so now I have 32GB but I’m running into some errors in memtest86. If I apply the XMP Profile 1 3200 MHz and run the test I get several errors into the first past. If I disable XMP and leave the speed at 2933 memtest86 finishes without any errors. So basically these are my results XMP Profile 1 2933 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) Auto: Fail XMP Profile 1 3200 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) 1.35V: Fail XMP disabled 2933 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) Auto: OK XMP disabled 2933 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) 1.35V: OK XMP disabled 3200 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) 1.35V: XMP disabled 3200 MHz DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) Auto: Fail My system specs are: Gigabyte B450m DSH3 Ryzen 5 2600 Sapphire Pulse RX580 8GB Gigabyte PB500 I’m wondering if my new RAM is defective or it just an issue with the maximum RAM speed supported by my R5 2600 (up to 2933MHz). To my understanding RAM can perform up to the manufactures specs if the rest of the system components allowed and it is not considered defective if it can perform correctly below the manufacture specs. Correct me if I’m wrong.
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6 120 mm Well it is a mAtx case and i filled every space available with fans XD, but I was concern about turning it in a dust buster. I use this build in my shop and it is kinda dusty. The case has magnetic filters all around but the mesh size is not really small I will check in a month how much dust collects and maybe add extra filters for the intakes if needed. I wasn't planning to overclock but once I started tweaking the setup I couldn't stop myself, it works my temps are lower and its quieter than with the 3 fan set up.
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I've a masterbox q300l case, initially I installed 3 corsair AF120 fans (2 front intakes and 1 rear exhaust). I'm running a R5 2600 OC to 3.6Ghz all cores base and RX580 OC 1450Mhz. The ambient temp where I live is around 30 - 36 C, so I decided to get some extra fans. Right now i have the original 3 AF120s and I added 2 120 sickleflow (top exhaust) and the stock 120mm fan cooler master that came with the case as a bottom intake. My cpu runs under 70C with Cinebech and Furmark @1080p finishes at around 72C. I'm not sure is this set up is an overkill or if the position of my fans made my case a vacuum cleaner and I will get a lot of dust inside but I did noticed that my system runs quieter under load. So, should I reduce the amount of fans or change the intake/exhaust setup?
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I was considering the 120 for the rear exhaust but if placing the radiator at the top of the case doesn't make a difference in efficiency (hot air raising) then I would consider a 240mm
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I don't have any experience with AIO coolers, a few days ago added a fan controller in a Ryzen 2600 build. Just by adding a fan controller (my gigabyte motherboard only had one extra header and I was suspecting that my Y splitter could not fully power all the fans (3)) I saw an overall drop of 10°C, now the CPU runs below 80C under load. This made consider an AIO for another build that I have. This build is a Ryzen 7 1700 with the stock cooler. It usually runs in the high 80°C under load so I was thinking in adding an AIO, probably an ML120L from Cooler Master. The ambient temperature is around 26-33C in the summer. I already clean the stock cooler fins and replaced the thermal paste. My question is over radiator placement, how bad is to place the radiator at the rear exhaust instead of top exhaust? In this build I'm running two 120 mm intakes and one 120 mm exhaust. So if I place the AIO in the rear I would have 2 intakes, 1 top exhaust and 1 AIO rear exhaust. If I placed the AIO on top I would have 1 rear exhaust, 2 intakes and 1 AIO top exhaust. I know that hot air raises, so this is about what is more efficient. Rear or top radiator mounting?
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I purchased the controller, found it at $19 in Amazon and it was big difference. I don't think my single fan conector with the Y splitter was powering my fans efficiently. As soon as I plug the controller the led on my fans was brighter. I ran a few tests and I saw a 5°C drop in temperature. I went ahead and added an extra fan that I had laying around. My ambient temperature is around 28 - 32°C and after adding 1 top exhaust my temperature dropped ~10°C. Now I have 1 rear exhaust,1 top exhaust and 2 front intake fans. My Ryzen 5 2600 is now at 68-74°C at full load and 38-42°C at idle. Before adding the controller and the extra exhaust it was running at 81-86°C under load and 45-50 at idle. So, the fan controller it was a good investment.
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Thanks for that info i found a perfect place to put it next to my case.
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I'm trying to decide between a Phanteks Universal Fan Controller PH-PWHUB_02 and a DeepCool FH-10. My motherboard only has 2 fan headers (CPU and SYS) and I want to install 3 120 mm Corsair AF120 plus a stock corsair 120 mm rear fan. I don't want to use a fan header splitter because I think it will put a big load on a single header with 4 fans (3 of them with LED). My initial idea was to use a Phanteks controller, the PH-PWHUB_02 comes with a manual control. This will allow to run the AF120 at low speed when idle or in a light load (AF120 are 3 pins). But I can't find any photos of video of this controller in the wild, my concern is the size of the remote. I don't want a big piece of plastic sticking outside of the case. It looks small in phanteks website, but marketing is tricky. If somebody has a PH-PWHUB_02 please let me know how big the remote is. If it is too big I will rather go for a DeepCool splitter and run the fans a full speed.
