BaconLord222

13 minutes ago, Moonzy said:

tried clearing CMOS?

Yep, that fixed it. I'm now into the BIOS, and starting to configure it all again.

Thanks for the help!

1 minute ago, Moonzy said:

tried clearing CMOS?

I forgot that was a thing I have to do. I've just unplugged the CMOS Battery and power. I'll update you in a couple of minutes if it worked or not.

Hi, 

I just received a kit of Team T-Force Delta RGB 32GB (2x16GB) 3200MHz CL16 from PC Case Gear, and have been trying to get my PC to boot with the new RAM installed, however there is no display output.

The motherboard isn't showing any RAM errors, nor is it faulty as far as I can tell (still boots fine with the old RAM in, just not booting with the new RAM).

Any ideas on what to do?

Specs:

CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 2600X

CPU Cooler - Stock Wraith Spire thing lol

Mobo - MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC

GPU - Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Super Windforce OC 8GB

RAM - Team T-Force Dark 16gb (2x8gb) 3200MHz DDR4

Storage - Corsair Force Series Mp510 240gb

                 Seagate Barracuda 3TB 7200rpm HDD

PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA G3 550W

Case - Phanteks Eclipse P300

O/S - Windows 10 Home 64bit

Update:

No idea wtf happened. left the computer for a few mins to make this post after a restart, and the noise magically disappeared.

Just did a couple laps of Mount Panorama in Asetto Corsa, and it was fine with no buzzing noise whatsoever.

Computers are weird sometimes.

Hi everyone,

As the title suggests, I bought Asetto Corsa Competizione on sale today and was super hyped to play it. 

Played it for roughly an hour, and decided to set up oculus link with the game, when a super loud buzzing noise started in the right ear of my M40X's.

I've tried restarting my PC and changing to the front panel audio output, but that hasn't fixed it.

I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I was using a G29 racing wheel while playing, so idk if that caused something to happen (hasn't before when I played 60+ hours of project cars 2)

Any ideas what could be causing this and how I could solve it?

2 minutes ago, ddennis002 said:

Everything looks good on your ISP going out. So the issue most likely lies with the device or router config. With that being said not having the issue using mobile data lets look at your router settings. If you like to PM me to go from here that would probably be faster and easier.

I'd be happy to continue this in PM's though

Just now, ddennis002 said:

Everything looks good on your ISP going out. So the issue most likely lies with the device or router config. With that being said not having the issue using mobile data lets look at your router settings. If you like to PM me to go from here that would probably be faster and easier.

One thing that I completely forgot to point out is that, for twitter anyway, if i open a tweet in the app it wont load however if I load it in my phone's browser it loads fine

3 minutes ago, ddennis002 said:

Open a command prompt and run this line, send the results how many received, how many lost and min, max, avg latency

 

ping twitter.com -n 100

 

While that line is running open a second command prompt and run this line, run this trace and copy results or screenshot.

 

tracert twitter.com

 

Just now, ddennis002 said:

Doesn't look bad, im guessing by the loaded latency your on a DSL type line coaxial usually have a lower loaded latency. 

Do you have a windows machine hooked up that network via wired or wireless? 

I've got my windows desktop, that I'm currently typing on, on the same 5GHz network, and it works fine.  this is how it looks on fast.com

3 minutes ago, ddennis002 said:

use fast.com from your phone on wifi and give your download, upload and latency load and unloaded. 

My Speed is 45mbps (keep in mind, I may be wrong about that 100mbps speed). Latency is 7ms unloaded, 68ms loaded. Upload speed is 14mbps according to fast.com

1 minute ago, ddennis002 said:

What is your ISP connection type? speed your suppose to be getting? Are you getting said speed. What type of wifi are you connecting to Wireless N, AC? 2.4 or 5Ghz?

Could be dropping packets, poor Wifi config, Phone issue the list goes on to get definitive answer more information is needed.

I believe the connection type is a copper wire to somewhere, I might be wrong. The speed I'm supposed to be getting is around 100mbps, and I'm getting that. I'm using Telstra NBN (in Australia) and I'm using 5Ghz to connect.

5 minutes ago, Skiiwee29 said:

sounds like a QOS setting potentially on the wifi router or some type of parental controls. 

I've just quickly checked my router's settings, and I can't see any setting that could be causing a problem. What should I be looking for specifically in the router's settings?

Hey Guys, I'm having a really bizarre issue with my smartphone...

On WiFi, some of the apps won't load, or are very slow to load content, such as photos and videos in Twitter or logging in on Minecraft Earth. While on Mobile Data, however, this problem completely disappears. I've got no idea why... any suggestions?

Phone Model: Samsung Galaxy A50

Update: I'm setting up windows as it would happen normally. Thanks for the help guys! I really appreciate it!

Just now, 0x1e said:

Like Emosun said, get a new USB and download the iso on it.
Boot and see if that works.

Find out if the official MS one is a full fat OS or if it was sold to you buy the manufacture of the computer.
If you buy a computer from Dell for instance with the OS installed then your Windows install media might be cut down and modified. Sometimes this can cause unwanted behaviour later on if the computer is modified, and sometimes will plainly refuse to run on another machine.
Then there's also a recovery disk, and an install disk. They are different, but people think they are interchangeable.

I got the USB with my desktop from PCCaseGear, and its windows 10 home. I'm guessing that its the original microsoft one, but I might be wrong. The new install USB is nearly ready to go, so I'll give that a go in a minute.

2 minutes ago, emosun said:

Yeah just make a new one and give that a try instead then

I'm doing that now. I'll update this thread on what happens

Just now, emosun said:

try remaking the usb key , is this error when you're trying to boot the usb or the drive after installing the windows instalation files

This error is when I'm trying to boot the usb, to reinstall windows. The usb wasn't made by me, it was the official microsoft install one that came with my desktop pc (photos attached). Should I grab a random usb and make an install disk?

Hey guys, I need some help.

I have an a laptop that I use to DJ often, and it's been really slow with booting, even with an upgrade to an SSD.

I spoke to a local computer repair guy, he tested the computer's speed against his own clean install of windows 10 and it was apparently a lot faster, so he recommended that I reinstall windows 10 on the machine.

I've backed up all the files onto my desktop PC, and have attempted to install windows, only to come to an error telling me that a file called "winload.efi" doesn't exist.

I have literally no idea why this is showing up, as I am installing from a windows 10 usb key directly from microsoft (the one that I got with my desktop).

edit: photo of the screen attached.

Just now, Gegger said:

banned for big brain logic

banned for using big brain logic with a small brain

Not really, from my experience with the playerbase on ps4, there's next to no-one playing anymore. Idk if its different on PC

Undervolting shouldn't do any damage to your hardware. usually its done to keep a system under a thermal target or power target without swapping out system components, so If thats what you're looking to do, it should be fine.

(I might be wrong though, I don't have much experience with undervolting)

I forgot to add, my personal suggestion is to use HDMI for consoles and use displayport for your PC.

1. this allows easy source switching without having to buy extra HDMI switcher units
2. This allows the PC to take advantage of the full 240hz, as well as freesync/gsync if its supported

If you were only going to use the screen for PS4 pro and nothing else, then it would be absolute overkill considering that consoles don't reach anything higher than 60hz (from what I know). However, since you're using it with a pc as well it should be fine.

 This video should give you the answer that you're looking for. It should be fine, from what I know.

1 minute ago, Death_and_famine said:

I thought this was gonna be a "earth wind and fire" joke

 Do you remember? The 21st night of september?