DudefromHamburg

Its Windowed(Fullscreen), but the problem occures in every game. Diablo, Factorio, Monster Train, Even Vampire Survivors and other 8 bit-style Games... I attached a picture of my CPU Load-Distribution in TaskManager. Things I tried so far : Disable Hardware Acceleration in Chrome Disable Transparency in Windows Use another browser Nothing fixed it.

Hi there, i need some help. I got a new Pre-Build from MSI a week ago which replaced my old Desktop (Ryzen5600x -> 13700KF & GTX3080 -> 4080). i am Using the preinstalled OS&Drivers though. On my Old System i could play (example) Diablo 4 on my Mainscreen and had Youtube/Netflix/whatever running on 2nd Screen without ANY issues. With the, arguably faster, new one i cant watch ANYTHING on my 2nd Screen while playing the Same game with the same Settings. Is there any kind of Option/Setting or whatever which might be enabled in the PreBuild OS which is causing this? I even tried Factorio, which has NO GFX whatsoever, as soon as i start it up with the menu screen, my 2nd Screen Video from any source starts crapping out. Also, i checked in TaskManager and Core23 seems to get a lot of the loads, it peaks to 100% a couple of times, while other cores chill out. I dont assume any Hardware Error, it just seems like some kind of setting which caused it. Only Difference between the OS is, i was using W11 pro, and switched to W11 Home. But before i reinstall my OS, i hope you guys know what kind of setting causes this... Help!!

So far the only solution to similar problems i´ve found online was to disconnect all other nvme´s, install windows on the fury, and then kill the others.. Which i really dont want because it seems there is no way to just disable any NVME in my Bios (Aorus X570 Ultra)

ignore the german, it says (from top to bottom) #1 We couldn't Create a new partition or locate an existing one" (after i tried to install it on a formated drive (which i´d done 4 min prior) #2 after Deleting all Drive 5 partitions i could select the unallocated space and get to the next screen just to get the error #3 #3 Windows Could Not Prepare the Computer to Boot Into the Next Phase of Installation and im back to square one.

This is what my boot menu Shows. Windows is on the 970 EVO, Boot Manager on the SN730, but i want it on the Kingston...

OK, first of all, im a MBR-Child. Im not that into UEFI, GPT and all. So if the answer contains knowledge about thoose, mayber ELI5 ;). Here is the Setup, i had 1 NVME with Windows on it. (a 970) Put a 2nd in as well (which was a boot device from an OEM machine, lets call it the "WD" ), and some Kind of Windows Boot Manager seems to be installed on this one. I could still boot the OS installed on the 970, but i had to tell my UEFI-Bios that the WD is "first boot". This all worked out somehow, but today i got my 3rd NVME (The Fury). After i switched the WD in my PCIE-Gen4x2 Slot so the Fury could go into a Gen4x4 Slot and booted up a Windows Stick and wanted to install W11 on the Fury, and formatting the other 2 NVME afterwards. But i cant get Windows onto it, no matter what i tried so far. I got an error 0x80300024 (which was the only qualified Error i got, usually it just tells me "i cant install windows here".) So, how do i "clear" any Windows Boot Manager from my Devices? Im Ready to wipe all 3 NVMEs if need be, but i just finished cable management in my case, and 2 NVME Slots are covered due to my GPU. So im ready to to anything besides remove the 2 "Old" NVMEs just to get Windows on the Fury...

According to ASRock - 1 x CPU Fan Connector (4-pin)*** - 1 x CPU/Water Pump Fan Connector (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control) - 4 x Chassis/Water Pump Fan Connectors (4-pin) (Smart Fan Speed Control)**** https://www.asrock.com/MB/AMD/B550 Phantom Gaming 4/index.de.asp#Specification You can zoom through the board on this page to see where the respective connectors are. Looks fine to me with your needs

You are welcome

Nah, just different RAM. During this Era it was common for some RAM to just dont work with some CPU. No matter the Manufacturer or Speed/Timings/whatever.

Its a non-post, could mean nothing or anything. Lets assume CPU and MB still work, so like i said , after confirming it should work,and both parts worked seperately) focus on the next best possibility. And that is RAM

Well, it aint goot ;). But to answer that we need more info Does this happen with the old or new cpu?

Lets slow it down a bit. If you have the M5A97, which the BIOS Version you flashed kinda confirmed as 1650 is in fact the latest for the M5A97 NON R2.0, your board is capable of running the CPU. At least the one listed in the link i posted before. Idk right now if there were different revisions of the 8350 which could differ from FX-8350(FD8350FRW8KHK,4.0GHz,8C,125W,rev.C0) This CPU and Socket were massively popular by the time i was still active building PCs, so i can confirm that its not unusal that a NON AM3+ could support an AM3+ after a BIOS Update. BUUUT: Somethimes, if i remember correctly, due to some AMD-specific Stuff with RAM, a different CPU could not work with your old RAM even thogh your old CPU did. edit: Yeah, due to the Mem-Controller beeing in the CPU and not the MB this issue could arrise. Therefore it could be a Memory Issue, do you have sth to try there?

Do you have any way to make sure the CPU aint dead? ATM it seems the logical conclusion. Board works, CPU should work with the latest BIOS and you did that, leaves the CPU als culprit

1605 should have worked, according to this: https://www.asus.com/us/supportonly/M5A97/HelpDesk_CPU/ FX-8350(FD8350FRW8KHK,4.0GHz,8C,125W,rev.C0,AM3+) 1605

Ya, you need BIOS Version 1006 or newer CPU Validated since PCB Validated since BIOS Note FX-8350(FD8350FRW8KHK,4.0GHz,8C,125W,rev.C0,AM3+) ALL 1006

i assume you dont have enough spare hardware to double check board and cpu. So @Moonzy´s way is the best option you have right now. Use the phenom, get the latest bios, flash it, reboot to make sure it still works, then switch CPU and start with only one RAM. Work your way up. If your Board has some kind of debug LED or sth. like that you could narrow the problem down further, but updating the bios should be your first move

Hey Alex, did not expect you to reply. pleasant suprise. but yeah, i guess a single 120m Rad would only (best case) give me a slight noise improvement. But i saw Alphacools Eiswand (Icewall), and though how about custom loop with an external rad/pump/res Case which could be transferd to any future builds. open panel is too risky, i tend to spill stuff...a lot and i guess the D-15´s base might be too mighty this. thats why i wante the heatsink as small as possible.

Hi there, due to fortunate circumstances with my employer im able to get a brand new MSI Trident X System. It will be delivered in about 3 Weeks. Usually i would avoid any SI-Systems, but in this case i had to buy it. And, well about 3 days after i ordered, it dawned on me. What about noise? I´ve read some mixed reviews about the noise-level and mine will come with a 10700k, which i cant just run @stock ...this would be an insult... so if this gets loud even while i did not touch it... well i have to act. Also, i want to tinker on this case. Its so tiny and cute :D. But overall i value silence over performance, so if an OC would bring my fans to the max, i´d rather go for an undervolt than an overclock. First order of buisness was to get some Images to map out potential options what to mod. (c) to the user MatrixMoments from Reddit for the following pictures, but they are great. https://imgur.com/a/QtVH8j9 https://imgur.com/a/YbeBbcI My first idea was to externalize a small 120mm AIO. It seems you could mount an AIO with top-directional leading tubes (like ARCTIC Liquid Freezer II 240). Then you could either remove or mod the mesh placed in the non tempered glass door to route the tubes outside and then "mount" the rad on the outside door and the tubes would lead inside shaped like a C. This would free up space for some decent RAM. Nothig wrong with the green candy bars, but i´d love to transplant my current Ram into it. But i think it wont clear with the default Cooler.. I would admit, this would rather look like an PC on life support than a cool clean mod, but i admire @AlexTheGreatish, so i dont mind a certain degree of jankyness. But if anyone has any other cool ideas or possible solutions for my theoretical noise problem, im open to anything really. But lets start with my concerns according this solution - will the AIO-Tubes be long enough mount the rad outside? - if so, will the tubing be flexible enough to reach this kind of 180° degree bend im aiming for. - if you were to own this case, how would you solve a potential noise problem. my second approach was to a) keep the tempered glass side panel but b) still improve the system. the only idea i had was to kinda extend the case with a frame of some kind to get some more height clearance between the CPU-Fan and the enclosure. Maybe some kind of plexiglass or some other transparent or semitransparent material. This would open up some fun options to illuminate the frame...

Hey there, after finalizing my build within my Anidees Crystal Cube Lite i realized that i had to remove the included 2x3,5 Bay for aesthetic reaons. But, only running a whole rig on only 1,5TB Storage (2x 512 NVME@Raid0 + 1x 512 GB SSD) isnt the best way for my purposes. I have a lot of old video and audiofiles which i need to acces sometimes. So i was thinking, i have 3,5TB of HDD Storage (1x1,5 & 1x2,0 TB) lying right next to me. But, because im also very fond of silent Systems, i rather dont want to include any moving parts in my storage solution, at least not permanent. I i was thinking of possible solutions: 1.) Getting a 2bay external enclosure with USB 3.1 and just reuse my old HDDs. Pro:Price Con: external power supply 2.) Getting a 4TB 2,5´ external Drive with only a USB 3.0 plug. 3.) Going all in, getting a Asus M2 Hyper Key Card and hoarding NVME drives. What would you reccomend?

without any shadow of a doubt your GPU, Kaby Lake Quad Core i5 even though its a non K should run well enough. i guess you are going for 1080p, so CPU Bottleneck wont become much on an issue ditch the mainboard and invest in the new gpu.

Hey Folks, i was visiting a friend today who needed help with his PC. After arriving and seeing a what must be Celeron Boxed Cooler on this poor i7 i rushed home, got some TCP and my old mugen out of the drawer and went on installing it. After i removed the Boxed one i saw all dried up TCP on his CPU but almost nothing on the HS. After i cleaned it up, and installed my combo on the Board, i noticed strangly high idle temps (36°-39°), so i redid the whole thing, same stuff. So it could be his miditower, i always run on kind of a benchtable at home so i kept on. In the P95 run his Core 1 jumped to 98-101 almost instantly, while all others kept their temps at 60°-62° (which was may closer to what i expected from the mugen) and after removing the side panel we got to 55-58° also almost instantly. But still that damn core 1 was yoloing at 95+. I have installed about 100 heatsinks in my time, and did this one twice but it still itches me. So, could it be that he did some damage to his CPU, because i can only imagine how this CPU must have been tortured the last cpl of month with non existing TCP and THIS Additional Info. I ran AIDA Stress Test and we ran into 2-4% throtteling after 40min with closed case and 0% with open case

Hey there, my new case for showcasing some RGB is on its way. i got an Asus Mainboard with 2 RGB Headers, so all i need is some god damn light. I have to admit due to the sheer amout of stuff tagged RGB i have trouble finding the right accesioirs. 1.) What i wanna do: http://anidees.com/product/ai-crystal-cube-white/ This badboy is gonna be lit, so i wanna a.) Center a white LED FAN on the front. Np, i use the 4 outer screwholes for the 4x120mm fans, and get a "bridge" piece to mount. No Problem here. b) I want a square RGB Lighting arround the fan. So i´d use those [AMAZON LINK] in the corners. But on thoose pictures i encoured the first problem where i need your help. 1st Pic, all is fine and dandy with |+|R|G|B| but in the 2nd pic it shows |+|G|R|B i saw contless stripes with similar problems. Im afraid if i connect them to my already lit mainboard and ram it will be out of sync or something due to |G| and |R| switched. Do i need to "crosssolder" the stripes to get a straight "RGB" line? c) Due to the lenght of Stripes needed (about 1,2m Front, and both sides) i wanna buy bulk. 5m Roll like this AMAZON LINK (which also is labeld GRB not RGB). i dont wanna buy 20$ stripes from Asus or Phantek per 30cm, so i wanna DIY (DIM?). How far can i adapt them withou getting in trouble? also, i just have 2 RGB Connectors, so i need to Y-Adapt the both side panel sets. I found plenty of Hardware AMAZON LINK which could support, but what is "better" to receive a full lit case which i can controll via Aura Software. Only 1 2-Way Splitter , or rather an 8-Way to adress each of the 4 strips needed per Panel? If i could profit from someones experience, that would be super nice

First Answer: No, you fine. Second Answer?.. First we need to analyze your needs...What kind of Display you aiming for? What kind of Games you playing? and, whats your budget and where you coming from? Upgrade an exisiting system or getting a new one?

There are a couple of reasons why us germans are hit pretty hard by this heat wave. (you could apply this to any country with a "sudden" change in climate in a specific period.) 1.) Our whole Infrastructure isnt buildt for this kind of sustained heat. There are a lot of recently (last 25 Years or so) build buildings who were never exposed to this climate conditon, nor were they planned to do so because 100+ yrs of weather histroy and climate predictions let us to belive it just wasnt necessarry. The building my office is located in was build in 2000 and worked perfectly within the last 15 years. During the Winter the installed heaters provided enough warmth to keep the offices warm, but not hot. And during the summer, even though no AC is installed, the building itself didnt heat up so with a fan it was warm but not uberhot. Within the last 2 weeks our building kept heating up because even during night time it just did not get cool enough to reduce the temps. So atm every room is between 27 and 29°C,top floors over 30. This applys for domestiv units as well, esp. highrises and our very popular apartment buildings (6-12 Households over 3 to 4 storys). And dont get me started on public transportation,almost all of the wagons and busses dont have powerful AC so its literally an oven in there. We are used to a pretty wide spectrum of temperatures here (-20 to +32 °) were the usual "spreads" within the last 30yrs. But in avg. it was ok because mainly those extreme temps (over 30°/Summer and below -20 Winter) only peaked for a very short period, so our stuff was able to withstand. 2.) "Human Factor" If your Body never experienced so much heat over such a long period of time and suddenly it happends, it shocks the system. If you put an aussie for 2 Weeks in an skandinavian winter and force him to go along with his everyday life as if nothing has changed.well you get the picture. And, (im guilty of this as well) its hard to work the extra maintenance, which is clearly needed during this heat, in your daily cicle. i have to force myself to drink a lot of water, and im glad that i have the opportunity to do so. Lots of people simply arent able to keep this up for a longer period of time. I.E. a lot of my friends work retail and the basic principle of intake equals outtake disrupts their life as well. Meaning, lots of people may have access to water during their day, but getting said water out on a hourly base is muuch muuuch harder. There are so many jobs without regular acces to a toilett if you think about it... So they just dont drink the extra 1-2L, and boom their blood pressure cardio circulation goes down and they collapse. 3.) Its a mean kind of heat. I was visiting spain a cpl. of years ago and it was also 35°C,but it was a diffrent kind of heat. You could be outside and not beeing an instant human waterfall. Same thing in Egypt. But his heat we have atm is pure sultriness (sorry had to google the translation there, i´ve never heard this word, i hope its used in the english language). Most of the time we dont have any airflow whatsoever, and when a little breeze comes it feels like somone is using a hair dryer in your face. Its sticky, the air feels thick and unbreathable. And due to this condition sweating isnt remotly as effective as it is during a dry heat, so stupid body is like ok, if a little sweat doesnt help, how about a big fat one.. Btw. same thing during winter sometimes, due to the outside moistuire it might just be -10° or so, but it feels so much worse than dry -20° during a clean dry winter. So please dont compare you 30°C in Spain, Australia or even Texas to 30° in Germany or elsewhere in europe north of italy. keywords here are aride and humid climate.

Get some C3H8O (sorry, language barrier, better go with chemical formular) and some Q-Tips and then clean, dry, clean, dry and so on untill no more gunk is visible. I had mixed results, depending on a) the kind of paste (conductive vs. non conductive) and b) wether the previoues owner already tried some shady stuff and maybe even tried to booth with gunk still in the socket. But calm hands, patience and mr.myagi style of wax on wax off are you best bet