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About DudefromHamburg

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  1. Hey there, after finalizing my build within my Anidees Crystal Cube Lite i realized that i had to remove the included 2x3,5 Bay for aesthetic reaons. But, only running a whole rig on only 1,5TB Storage (2x 512 NVME@Raid0 + 1x 512 GB SSD) isnt the best way for my purposes. I have a lot of old video and audiofiles which i need to acces sometimes. So i was thinking, i have 3,5TB of HDD Storage (1x1,5 & 1x2,0 TB) lying right next to me. But, because im also very fond of silent Systems, i rather dont want to include any moving parts in my storage solution, at least not permanent. I i was thinking of possible solutions: 1.) Getting a 2bay external enclosure with USB 3.1 and just reuse my old HDDs. Pro:Price Con: external power supply 2.) Getting a 4TB 2,5´ external Drive with only a USB 3.0 plug. 3.) Going all in, getting a Asus M2 Hyper Key Card and hoarding NVME drives. What would you reccomend?
  2. without any shadow of a doubt your GPU, Kaby Lake Quad Core i5 even though its a non K should run well enough. i guess you are going for 1080p, so CPU Bottleneck wont become much on an issue ditch the mainboard and invest in the new gpu.
  3. Hey Folks, i was visiting a friend today who needed help with his PC. After arriving and seeing a what must be Celeron Boxed Cooler on this poor i7 i rushed home, got some TCP and my old mugen out of the drawer and went on installing it. After i removed the Boxed one i saw all dried up TCP on his CPU but almost nothing on the HS. After i cleaned it up, and installed my combo on the Board, i noticed strangly high idle temps (36°-39°), so i redid the whole thing, same stuff. So it could be his miditower, i always run on kind of a benchtable at home so i kept on. In the P95 run his Core 1 jumped to 98-101 almost instantly, while all others kept their temps at 60°-62° (which was may closer to what i expected from the mugen) and after removing the side panel we got to 55-58° also almost instantly. But still that damn core 1 was yoloing at 95+. I have installed about 100 heatsinks in my time, and did this one twice but it still itches me. So, could it be that he did some damage to his CPU, because i can only imagine how this CPU must have been tortured the last cpl of month with non existing TCP and THIS Additional Info. I ran AIDA Stress Test and we ran into 2-4% throtteling after 40min with closed case and 0% with open case
  4. Hey there, my new case for showcasing some RGB is on its way. i got an Asus Mainboard with 2 RGB Headers, so all i need is some god damn light. I have to admit due to the sheer amout of stuff tagged RGB i have trouble finding the right accesioirs. 1.) What i wanna do: http://anidees.com/product/ai-crystal-cube-white/ This badboy is gonna be lit, so i wanna a.) Center a white LED FAN on the front. Np, i use the 4 outer screwholes for the 4x120mm fans, and get a "bridge" piece to mount. No Problem here. b) I want a square RGB Lighting arround the fan. So i´d use those [AMAZON LINK] in the corners. But on thoose pictures i encoured the first problem where i need your help. 1st Pic, all is fine and dandy with |+|R|G|B| but in the 2nd pic it shows |+|G|R|B i saw contless stripes with similar problems. Im afraid if i connect them to my already lit mainboard and ram it will be out of sync or something due to |G| and |R| switched. Do i need to "crosssolder" the stripes to get a straight "RGB" line? c) Due to the lenght of Stripes needed (about 1,2m Front, and both sides) i wanna buy bulk. 5m Roll like this AMAZON LINK (which also is labeld GRB not RGB). i dont wanna buy 20$ stripes from Asus or Phantek per 30cm, so i wanna DIY (DIM?). How far can i adapt them withou getting in trouble? also, i just have 2 RGB Connectors, so i need to Y-Adapt the both side panel sets. I found plenty of Hardware AMAZON LINK which could support, but what is "better" to receive a full lit case which i can controll via Aura Software. Only 1 2-Way Splitter , or rather an 8-Way to adress each of the 4 strips needed per Panel? If i could profit from someones experience, that would be super nice
  5. First Answer: No, you fine. Second Answer?.. First we need to analyze your needs...What kind of Display you aiming for? What kind of Games you playing? and, whats your budget and where you coming from? Upgrade an exisiting system or getting a new one?
  6. There are a couple of reasons why us germans are hit pretty hard by this heat wave. (you could apply this to any country with a "sudden" change in climate in a specific period.) 1.) Our whole Infrastructure isnt buildt for this kind of sustained heat. There are a lot of recently (last 25 Years or so) build buildings who were never exposed to this climate conditon, nor were they planned to do so because 100+ yrs of weather histroy and climate predictions let us to belive it just wasnt necessarry. The building my office is located in was build in 2000 and worked perfectly within the last 15 years. During the Winter the installed heaters provided enough warmth to keep the offices warm, but not hot. And during the summer, even though no AC is installed, the building itself didnt heat up so with a fan it was warm but not uberhot. Within the last 2 weeks our building kept heating up because even during night time it just did not get cool enough to reduce the temps. So atm every room is between 27 and 29°C,top floors over 30. This applys for domestiv units as well, esp. highrises and our very popular apartment buildings (6-12 Households over 3 to 4 storys). And dont get me started on public transportation,almost all of the wagons and busses dont have powerful AC so its literally an oven in there. We are used to a pretty wide spectrum of temperatures here (-20 to +32 °) were the usual "spreads" within the last 30yrs. But in avg. it was ok because mainly those extreme temps (over 30°/Summer and below -20 Winter) only peaked for a very short period, so our stuff was able to withstand. 2.) "Human Factor" If your Body never experienced so much heat over such a long period of time and suddenly it happends, it shocks the system. If you put an aussie for 2 Weeks in an skandinavian winter and force him to go along with his everyday life as if nothing has changed.well you get the picture. And, (im guilty of this as well) its hard to work the extra maintenance, which is clearly needed during this heat, in your daily cicle. i have to force myself to drink a lot of water, and im glad that i have the opportunity to do so. Lots of people simply arent able to keep this up for a longer period of time. I.E. a lot of my friends work retail and the basic principle of intake equals outtake disrupts their life as well. Meaning, lots of people may have access to water during their day, but getting said water out on a hourly base is muuch muuuch harder. There are so many jobs without regular acces to a toilett if you think about it... So they just dont drink the extra 1-2L, and boom their blood pressure cardio circulation goes down and they collapse. 3.) Its a mean kind of heat. I was visiting spain a cpl. of years ago and it was also 35°C,but it was a diffrent kind of heat. You could be outside and not beeing an instant human waterfall. Same thing in Egypt. But his heat we have atm is pure sultriness (sorry had to google the translation there, i´ve never heard this word, i hope its used in the english language). Most of the time we dont have any airflow whatsoever, and when a little breeze comes it feels like somone is using a hair dryer in your face. Its sticky, the air feels thick and unbreathable. And due to this condition sweating isnt remotly as effective as it is during a dry heat, so stupid body is like ok, if a little sweat doesnt help, how about a big fat one.. Btw. same thing during winter sometimes, due to the outside moistuire it might just be -10° or so, but it feels so much worse than dry -20° during a clean dry winter. So please dont compare you 30°C in Spain, Australia or even Texas to 30° in Germany or elsewhere in europe north of italy. keywords here are aride and humid climate.
  7. Get some C3H8O (sorry, language barrier, better go with chemical formular) and some Q-Tips and then clean, dry, clean, dry and so on untill no more gunk is visible. I had mixed results, depending on a) the kind of paste (conductive vs. non conductive) and b) wether the previoues owner already tried some shady stuff and maybe even tried to booth with gunk still in the socket. But calm hands, patience and mr.myagi style of wax on wax off are you best bet
  8. Good call, if he doenst know what hes doing it might end bad. Therefore before you even try too screw a single screw, check all other options.
  9. I would recommend running Afterburner or a similar Tool to check the Temp of your GPU. One thing i instantly noticed was the low GPU Usage yours was nowhere near 100%. So maybe a thermal issue... Try one of thoose Tools and run a Superposition benchmark, and check the graphs afterwards. CPU Clock, Mem Clock, GPU Usage, GPU Temp Opposite to Josh, i´d look for a hardware related issue rather than software. I.E.: Switching PCIE Ports, checking PSU and so on. But first, i´d strongy recommend a hardcore benchmark which monitoring all the graphs your GPU can provide.
  10. And its done. Baseline was about a 1700 Read MBs via Crystal, increased up to 2700 in Raid 0, and i also got a "subjective" bump in loading times.
  11. Hey Members, this might be a bit out of place due to its economic heritage, but it involves GPUs so i give it a try here. First you need to know where this is coming from. I was in sleepermode concerning the hardware market (new and used) pretty much from 2015 till the end of 2017. I kept up with the technology but did not pay any attention to the pricing at this time. Due to a Domino-Effect starting with a 4k Monitor i had to (and wanted to) take a closer look at market. Mostly because i almost got a stroke when i saw that the prices were almost double of what i expected. I knew that the 1080 was released Mid2016, so starting 2018 i expected about 50% of release price. Little did i know at this time. The cheapest available 1080 was listed for 709€ (which is about 830$ give or take, including all taxes). A 1,5yo Card was listed more expensive than on its release day. Well, after some digging i discovered what you all know (most certainly even better than i do) at this time. I dont need to go in the details, but yeah. Due to my curret job in finance im no stranger to long term supply and demand correlations and their impact on the respective marktet. Bitcoin just crashed and burned and all other Kryptos took pretty hard hits as well. So it was time for the waiting game (at least for new cards, because due to the obvious incoming rapid decrease in demand the market would soon become a buyers market) , but in this case the impact this particiular crash had on the 2nd hand was devastating. Tons and tons of "slightly used" ex-miners in decoy flooded the market and strangely though didnt effect the price as much as one would expect. Cards which clearly were abused mining were offered (and sold, due to the mostly unknowing public) for up to 85% of their retail price. You could argue that "one of us" would be able to tell the trustworthy / untrustworthy sellers apart, but more than enough recipients of the first miner wave were clever enough to figure out that sth. was wrong with their "slightly used" card. So they put it up for sale, suddenly a lot of cards looking legit AF were sold and the market was contaminated for good. On the New Card Market on the other hand prices dropped slightly, but not by that much. And if one could have placed a bet during the krypto-hype that at least one( if not both ) big player(s) would get greedy and massively overproduce their chips, even though that krypto was a classic bubble one could be very rich... And this is what happend on the green side. AMD was "forced to be clever" here, because they could not compete with pascal no matter what, so they got their mid-range solild and relatively cheap so if they ended up with overstocking on 5xx Chips they only would be forced to lower the price slightly. But rumor has it that Nvidias Warehouses are bursting with GP-104 and even the GP-107 Stock is rumored to be pretty high. So ofc they want to sell them for as much as possible, given that they could ask 800+$ retail for the better part of the last 2yrs. So dropping the price 100$ at a time is acutally a pretty smart move. Classical price skimming, every month you get a new layer of buyers to sell your cards to. And also the used marked relaxed quite a bit. With a 300€ budget you could get a good card. 1070 if you were really lucky, 980Ti for 250€ and even some 1080s if you payed up to 400€. All fine and dandy until about 2 days ago Boom --> Headlines: 1180 set to be released within 6 weeks (give or take) <---- I have it from good authority that GPU sales tanked almost instantly for all cards 1060 6Gig Upwards. (at least in the EU retail market) Product Managers for GPUs are freaking out atm, esp. the ones who stocked up recently. Even though you could acutally make a buck or two on GPUs again, the purchasing price still was relativly high. And dont get started about returns, i dont know US-policys, but if you order a GPU here you can return in within the first 2 weeks without giving a reason and the seller even has to pay for shipping back to him. And the used market got hit as well. A lot of cards just were delisted, and on the remaining ones prices got up almost 50€. 2 Weeks ago you could get a used 980Ti on a craigslist-like site for 250+-€, in part even for 230€ and as of right now the cheapest listing is 280 with an avg. of 305... And on the classifieds in other forums good gpu are spare. For a good reason. Everybody is holding on to their current card because the smart move to do so. You dont buy a 1080 for 500 now, it should drop to a more reasonable 300 sooner than later, and who knows maybe 700 will get you a 1180... So whats the gist here? The Customer gets f***d since 2017, mining cards killed off the used market and needing a GPU right now because yours a) doesnt cut it anymore and b) is on the verge of dying anyway sucks really hard. And i like to write unnecessary long post in english because even tough i might just have stated the obvious ...so far LTT has been nothing but very pleasant in all the threats i saw, so i thought i might give it a try. At least i put in effort
  12. Hi PapaP, having respect is a good thing, but dont be afraid. There was a time where flashing a bios was a pretty nerve wrecking experience, but nowadays with EZ Flash of some kind from every developer the risks are minimal. You can get the latest bios with a few clicks from official channels, most of the time with well documented How-Tos and sometimes even a windows flash tool. Using CPU-Z for Identifying your bios Version should work. RUn it, switch to mainboard tab and locate bios version and date. If its 6 Month or newer, keep the current. If its 2yrs or so, get the new one. Edit: 3 Mouseclicks later: https://de.msi.com/Motherboard/support/B350-GAMING-PRO-CARBON With youtube how to do it :). So basing on the date there, if you bios is 2017 or older, get the new. If its a 2018 version, only some finetuning was done.
  13. Good luck, let us know. And try the Bios thing first, could save you a ton of work
  14. @LOOK OVER HERE i have to argue here. He stats that his brother uses the PC to make a living. No room for savings on the tools you make your living with, we got a saying here "if you buy cheap, you buy twice". If he is on a tight budget there, you should look for 2nd hand hardware. If you step down to a DDR3 based system, and maybe try to shop outside your borders (if you still in romaria) you could get a pretty sweet deal on top shelf last gen hardware. You MB/CPU/RAM Combo alone is listed in GER for 285+ Shipping, so lets say 300€. I recently sold a Xeon 1231v3,H97 +16GB RAM combo for 175€ , so you could get a similar combo maybe with Z97 and a 4770k on it for maybe 200€. I just recently bought a Z170 Board with i5k CPU for 190€..
  15. Well, seems that you still got a cpl of options left. First, go into the bios, go to Chipset configuration and change whatever setting you have for "Deep Sleep" to the opposite and try shutting windows down. (http://asrock.pc.cdn.bitgravity.com/Manual/H370 Pro4.pdf) Second, try shutting it down by pressing the power button or better by shorting the 2 pins on the Mainboard. (Only if you know what you are doing!) If this doesnt help get the latest BIOS here: https://www.asrock.com/MB/Intel/H370 Pro4/index.asp#BIOS You can use the Windows Flash, works fine with ASRock. Or,last and least.... shut it down and start pulling plugs, one by one, eliminating the culprit.