crotach

It's coil whine, you'll get used to it. Or just play some music. It's only really noticable in a quiet room with a quiet PC. I have the same with 2070 super.

Hi folks,

I'm planning to upgrade my system in the next few weeks, so I'll have to take my custom loop apart and drain it, which is not bad, but then I was thinking of adding some quick disconnects to make future upgrades easier.

I'm running 7/16" Primochill LRT tubing and I find it great, got plenty of spare tubing for replacements/extensions, so I really want to keep this size. I haven't been able to find any quick disconnects for this though. Does such a thing even exists?

ID is 7/16" (11mm) and OD is 5/8" (16mm). I live in Europe but I don't mind importing and waiting for it to arrive.

I would prefer to have the QD inline, so in between components, but replacing the existing fittings (G1/4) would be ok, as long as they took the 7/16" tubing.

Thanks!

Hi folks,

I'm running a Ryzen 3900x system on X470 Crosshair Hero VII board with 32GB RAM (Trident Z Neo) and a RTX 2070 super, watercooled with a single loop by a Thermochill 140x3 radiator.

Looking at upgrades, I can get pretty good deals on past generation hardware, or spend more and go with latest generation.

Right now I'm considering a 5800x3d and 6900xt as an upgrade, keeping the rest of my system. I have a second radiator (240) in case the heat output is too much, but I found it wasn't necessary with this system and took it out.

Would you advise waiting for 7900 and going for either latest generation (AMD or Intel, doesnt matter), or extending the life of this platform with 5800x3d + 6900xt?

Budget (including currency): 1500 euro

Country: Luxembourg

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Photoshop, Lightroom, Civ6, HotS

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):

I play at 3440x1440 (ultrawide) resolution, 144Hz. Some future proofing would be nice. Case is Silverstone TJ-07, with 140x3 rad in the bottom, 850W power supply (Seasonic Prime). Room for two more 120x2 radiators in the case, one top and one front. EKWB monoblock for the CPU+motherboard, and iChill Frostbite GPU. Moving to a new platform would require new watercooling parts which can be very expensive.

Thanks!

I have coil whine on 2070S, so no news there. I doubt it can be any worse to be honest

It just went up by 100 euro freedom units, guess i'll have to wait

24 minutes ago, --SID-- said:

Brand and model of the PSU?

SeaSonic Prime TX-850

Hi folks,

I'm looking to upgrade my graphics card, I currently run a RTX2070S, and there are good deals to be had on 6900XT. 

I'd like to know if the poor driver issues that every review was mentioning at launch have been resolved and if AMD/ATI is in a happy state right now, or should I rather go for RTX3080?

I use watercooling, mainly for noise reduction, and I can get a watercooled 6900XT for a bit less than an aircooled 3080. After adding in a waterblock, it brings the price to about 30% more than AMD/ATI side.

The rest of the setup is X470 and Ryzen 3900X. 

Thanks!

G.Skill has new memory sticks made for Ryzen 3000 called TridentZ Neo that are cheaper than Ripjaws (assuming you're looking at Samsung B-die ones)

2x8GB is probably enough for most things. I went for 2x16GB since I was already coming from a 32GB machine and I run a lot of VMs.

8 hours ago, red773 said:

I have all hard tubing in the upper side of the case, but would turning off one pump while the other one runs have a similar effect of blocking the waterflow out of the reservoir causing liquid to back up?

You can try, but honestly your best bet is to set the PC so that the reservoir is on top and run it like that for a couple of days while filling up the water as needed. 

Also you probably have more noise from your system as the air is being pushed around the loops. You'll have an added benefit of having less noise once you've bled it.

1 hour ago, trevb0t said:

 

I got the impression you were upgrading to a new 3900X and a new RTX 2070. 

But really... 

The two mentioned are quieter than even high end radiators and cost about $90.

I am, and I have the parts here. Also linus is comparing corsair AIO units in this video, that has nothing to do with my case.

I'm sure the best air cooler is better than the cheapest water cooler.

My radiator alone costs more than this corsair AIO, not to mention that there are two pumps in the loop, EKWB blocks and a reservoir.

4 minutes ago, trevb0t said:

Then why don't you just get a decent GPU cooler and a DRP4 or NH-D15 air cooler. That would be quieter than any radiator out there, and it would actually cool your shit...

 

(EVGA FTW 3 / ROG Strix etc.)

I'm not a big fan of air cooling and I've never seen/heard one that's more quiet than my current system. Plus I have all the parts, why would I buy something else now and make it worse? 

2 minutes ago, ddennis002 said:

If your wanting to run your fans slower I wouldn't go any lower than a 360 rad.

I have a 360 30mm thick with a 2700x @ 4.2Ghz 1.25v and a rtx 2070 OC +165 core and +1000 memory, when gaming for about 30 mins or more GPU is at 50c and CPU is around 65c with fans running about 75% I have it on a custom fan curve. It can be a bit loud at times but I perfer to keep the CPU under 70c with the OC I have.

I plan on upgrading to a 3950x with a mono block and adding a 240mm rad so I can run the fans 50% max.

 

Of corse this depends on your case, what rad and fans and blocks you have.

Well I have a TJ07 case which is huge and with the new system it will be mostly empty. I'm replacing the HDDs with SSD and the motherboard is much smaller (ATX vs EATX)

The Thermochill 140.3 is 60mm wide and fits in the bottom of the case where the PSU and pumps are. I'm running two DDC3.2 pumps in series at 5v

I have a Swiftech MCR220 in the top which I'm considering getting rid of

You sure? With 600rpm fans? 

I mean that would be great!

I'm upgrading an old i7 system and I'm wondering if i need the extra rad. At the moment I have one 420 (3x140) and one 240 (2x120) rad in the case and I'm considering getting rid of the 240.

There will be two blocks in the case, one monoblock for CPU+VRM (3900x and Crosshair VII) and one RTX 2070S. I'm guessing 300W peak. A bit of room for upgrades/overclocking would be nice.

I'm going more for silence than speed. 

On 12/5/2019 at 11:20 PM, amdorintel said:

is that the desired sticks, i thought bullzoid was saying v-die

Neos are Hynix CJR, which plays really nice with Ryzen and it's really close to Samsung B-die, but at half the price.

21 hours ago, jeffV. said:

My PC case only has 3 fans, with no top exhaust. If i were to buy a 240mm AIO and front mount it, replacing my 2 front case fans and only leaving a single rear exhaust fan, would my PC get too warm? Or would this work?

Well, yes, but you could also rig it the other way around, AIO pushing air out and rear fan pushing air in. It depends on your system.

For example if your VRMs are getting overheated and you don't have a monoblock, you may want to push cold air over them instead of pushing hot air. 

The main idea with water cooling is to move the heat to the perimeter of the case and get rid of it, not to push it around the case and heat everything else inside

That's a lot of radiators, you sure you need all that?

Back to the topic, the reservoir should be the highest point in your loop and it looks like you have a radiator up there. I have a similar layout due to system restrictions. 

You either need to re-orient the case (turn it on the side, upside down, whatever) to get the reservoir to the top, or you need to slow down the pumps while you fill the system. 

Pinching the tubing before the reservoir will do it, unless you're using hard tubing.

The idea is to get the air into the reservoir and then fill it up. If it's a new system that might take several attempts.

On 11/25/2019 at 4:00 PM, Creepycrum said:

I'm new to water cooling PC's.  However, I'll have to say that, I think, I'm not a fan of inserting water or any other type of substance into an electronic component.  From experience, repairing electronic components, water damage is the worst.  I wonder if, anyone has had spilled liquids in their cases?

Never had water damage from water cooling, but I've had water damage from a peltier (tec) cooled system. I forgot about condensation, and the CPU when idle was reaching near zero temperatures. I left the PC alone and when I came back it wasn't working anymore. I found a nice trickle of water sliding from the CPU across the PCI (yes, it was PCI in those days) slots all the way to the sound card. Good news is that after drying everything worked again. Then I used PU foam to insulate the CPU cooler, which was fine until I had to take it apart. It never worked again

18 hours ago, Mtmuledeer said:

Kit 2: $160

F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC

Timing 16-19-19-39

I got this kit for my build and it's working perfectly. 16 is the important timing. It wasn't worth twice the price for me to have slightly better sub-timings.

The main difference is that the cheaper kit uses newer Hynix memory and the more expensive kit uses older Samsung B-die memory that is highly sought after and no longer manufactured. Most people will say that it's the best memory for Ryzen, but 100% more money for 0.01% more performance didn't make sense to me

Hi folks,

I'm having problems with my new build. I have an ASUS ROG Crosshair VII motherboard (x470) and Ryzen 3900x CPU, paired with TridentZ Neo 3600 RAM. 

I'm using the latest BIOS (2901), Windows 10 1909 and latest AMD chipset drivers (1.11.22.0454) and I don't see the Ryzen balanced power plan (or any Ryzen power plan).

For now I've set the voltage offset to -0.1v which seems to stop the CPU from cooking and fan from spinning wildly, but I've read it's better to leave the voltages at default and use the Ryzen power plan for 3000-series CPUs.

Any ideas how to get it installed?

Thanks!

There are tons of TridentZ sticks out there, but you may be interested in the newer (out since about a month) Trident Z Neo. 

They're Ryzen optimised (whatever that means) and cost about 50% less than the samsung B-die memory sticks. I got 32gb of 3600Mhz CL16 and it works perfectly at those timings. Didn't have to do anything except load XMP profile.

I went with addlink s70, seems to be the best value of the current bunch of pcie 3.0 drives according to all the reviews.

Well the original ones are aluminium and they screw into the case. These days you mostly find cheaper materials like plastic or steel.

Hi folks,

I'm upgrading my system residing in a Silverstone Temjin TJ-07 full tower case, and I've decided to dump all the hard drives and just use SSD. As a result I don't need the 3x5.25" hard disk cage (fits 4 drives + fan) and basically I'll have 6 unused 5.25" slots.

I can't find the blank plates to close the gap if I remove the hard disk cage.

Does anyone have an idea how to close the 6 bay gap so that it's aestetically pleasing?

My other option is to get rid of the optical drive and the 3.5" front USB ports and replace the entire front with something like this:

https://www.coldzero.eu/silverstone-tj07-front-panel-hexx

I could fit a rad in the front then, but I'm not sure that's really needed. There's a 3x140mm rad in the bottom that's more than enough, but if I can't find a better option I might go with this

Thanks!

Hi,

I have pretty much the same question, so rather than start a new topic I will add on. I will be building a new system when Threadripper 3rd gen comes out, and I have 2 pumps (Laing DDC3.2) and 6 fans to control. I'm using T-Balancer, but from what I can see the manufacturer is not around anymore (mcubed) and the latest version of the software I have is from 2010. I'm pretty sure it won't work with Windows 10

I can probably still use it in the new build, but I won't be able to change any of the settings without the software. 

Considering it's almost 10 years out of date, I would also like to know what do others use for controlling pumps and fans, or are motherboard good enough these days?

Thanks!